DEAREST ALICK,

Don't make yourself unhappy, and don't send out a nurse. And above all

don't think of coming. I am nursed as well as possible. My two Reises,

Ramadan and Yussuf, are strong and tender and Omar is admirable as ever.

The worst is I am so strong.

I repeat I could not be better cared for anywhere than by my good and

loving crew. Tell Maurice how they all cried and how Abd el-Haleem

forswore drink and hasheesh. He is very good too. But my Reises are

incomparable. God bless you. I wish I had seen your dear face once

more--but not now. I would not have you here now on any account.

Footnotes:

{1} See my 'Three Generations of English Women.'

{4} See 'Three Generations of English Women.'

{48} A smoker or eater of _hasheeshs_ (hemp).

{55} Lady Mary and Lord Jesus.

{188} About 7.5 bushels.

{293} Now, I believe, abolished. The Sheykh of the Saadeeyeh

darweeshes, passing part of the night in solitude, reciting prayers and

passages of the Koran, went to the mosque, preached and said the noonday

prayer; then, mounting his horse, proceeded to the Ezbekeeyeh. Many

darweeshes with flags accompanied him to the house of the Sheykh of all

the darweeshes where he stayed for some time, whilst his followers were

engaged in packing the bodies of those who wished to be trampled under

the hoofs of the Sheykh's horse as closely together as they could in the

middle of the road. Some eighty or a hundred, or more men lay side by

side flat on the ground on their stomachs muttering, Allah Allah! and to

try if they were packed close enough about twenty darweeshes ran over

their backs, beating little drums and shouting Allah! and now and then

stopping to arrange an arm or leg. Then appeared the Sheykh, his horse

led by two grooms, while two more rested their hands on his croup. By

much pulling and pushing they at last induced the snorting, frightened

beast to amble quickly over the row of prostrate men. The moment the

horse had passed the men sprang up, and followed the Sheykh over the

bodies of the others. It was said that on the day before the Doseh they,

and the Sheykh, repeated certain prayers which prevented the horse's

hoofs from hurting them, and that sometimes a man, overcome by religious

enthusiasm, had thrown himself down with the rest and been seriously

hurt, or even killed.

{315} Mohammed Ali Pasha, who was an illiterate coffee-house keeper in

Salonica, first came to Egypt at the head of a body of Albanians and

co-operated with the English against the French. By his extraordinary

vigour and intelligence he became the ruler of Lower Egypt, and succeeded

in attaching the Mameluke Beys to his person. But finding that they were

beginning to chafe under his firm rule, he invited them, in 1811, to a

grand dinner in the Citadel of Cairo. The gates were closed, and

suddenly fire was opened upon them from every side. Only one man, Elfy

Bey, spurred his horse and jumped over the battlements into the square

below (some 80 or 90 feet). His horse was killed and he broke his leg,

but managed to crawl to a friend's house and was saved. This same Elfy

Bey, on the death of Abbas Pasha, held the Citadel for his son, El Hamy,

against his uncle, Said Pasha, and it was only by the intervention of the

English Consul-General, who rode up to the Citadel, that Elfy was induced

to acknowledge Said as Viceroy of Egypt.

{334} Alexis was a clair-voyant who created some sensation in London

about fifty years ago. One evening at Lansdowne House he was reading

people's thoughts and describing their houses from the lines in their

hands, and a few leading questions. The old Marquess asked my mother to

let Alexis read her thoughts, and, I suppose, impressed by her _grand

air_ and statuesque beauty, imagining that she would think about some

great hero of ancient days, he said, after careful inspection of her

hand, 'Madame vous pensez a Jules Cesar.' She shook her head and told

him to try again. His next guess was Alexander the Great. She smiled

and said, 'Non, Monsieur, je pensais a mon fidele domestique negre,

Hassan.' He then described her house as something akin to Lansdowne

House--vast rooms, splendid pictures, etc. She laughed and told him she

lived in 'une maison fort modeste et tant soi peu bourgeois,' which

elicited his angry exclamation that she had not faith enough, _i.e._ that

she did not help him.

{336} See Introduction, p. 6.

{350} According to tradition, the first Christian church in Egypt was

built by St. Mark the Evangelist at Baucalis near Alexandria, and

Christianity was introduced into Abyssinia under Athanasius Patriarch of

Alexandria from 236 to 273. The authority of the Egyptian Coptic

Patriarch is still paramount in Abyssinia, where he counts his adherents

by the million.

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