The weather has been lovely, for the last week, and I am therefore
somewhat better. My boat arrived to-day, with all the men in high
good-humour, and Omar tells me all is in good order, only the people in
Cairo gave her the evil eye, and broke the iron part of the rudder which
had to be repaired at Benisouef. Mr. Lear has been here the last few
days, and is just going up to the second cataract; he has done a little
drawing of my house for you--a new view of it. He is a pleasant man and
I was glad to see him.
[Picture: Lady Duff Gordon, from oil portrait by Henry W. Phillips, about
1851]
Such a queer fellow came here the other day--a tall stalwart Holsteiner,
I should think a man of fifty, who has been four years up in the Soudan
and Sennaar, and being penniless, had walked all through Nubia begging
his way. He was not the least 'down upon his luck' and spoke with
enthusiasm of the hospitality and kindness of Sir Samuel Baker's
'tigers.' _Ja, das sind die rechten Kerls, dass ist das gluckliche
Leben_. His account is that if you go with an armed party, the blacks
naturally show fight, as men with guns, in their eyes, are always slave
hunters; but if you go alone and poor, they kill an ox for you, unless
you prefer a sheep, give you a hut, and generally anything they have to
offer, _merissey_ (beer) to make you as drunk as a lord, and young ladies
to pour it out for you--and--you need not wear any clothes. If you had
heard him you would have started for the interior at once. I gave him a
dinner and a bottle of common wine, which he emptied, and a few
shillings, and away he trudged merrily towards Cairo. I wonder what the
Nubians thought of a _howagah_ begging. He said they were all kind, and
that he was sure he often ate what they pinched themselves to
give--dourrah bread and dates.
In the evening we were talking about this man's stories, and of
'anthropophagi and men whose heads do grow' to a prodigious height, by
means of an edifice woven of their own hair, and other queer things, when
Hassan told me a story which pleased me particularly. 'My father,' said
he, 'Sheykh Mohammed (who was a taller and handsomer man than I am), was
once travelling very far up in the black country, and he and the men he
was with had very little to eat, and had killed nothing for many days;
presently they heard a sort of wailing from a hole in the rock, and some
of the men went in and dragged out a creature--I know not, and my father
knew not, whether a child of Adam or a beast. But it was like a very
foul and ill-shaped woman, and had six toes on its feet. The men wished
to slay it, according to the law declaring it to be a beast and lawful
food, but when it saw the knife, it cried sadly and covered its face with
its hands in terror, and my father said, 'By the Most High God, ye shall
not slay the poor woman-beast which thus begs its life; I tell you it is
unlawful to eat one so like the children of Adam.' And the beast or
woman clung to him and hid under his cloak; and my father carried her for
some time behind him on his horse, until they saw some creatures like
her, and then he sent her to them, but he had to drive her from him by
force, for she clung to him. Thinkest thou oh Lady, it was really a
beast, or some sort of the children of Adam?'
'God knows, and He only,' said I piously, 'but by His indulgent name, thy
father, oh Sheykh, was a true nobleman.' Sheykh Yussuf chimed in and
gave a decided opinion that a creature able to understand the sight of
the knife and to act so, was not lawful to kill for food. You see what a
real Arab Don Quixote was. It is a picture worthy of him,--the tall,
noble-looking Abab'deh sheltering the poor 'woman-beast,' most likely a
gorilla or chimpanzee, and carrying her _en croupe_.