Since I wrote I have had a bad bilious attack, which has of course
aggravated my cough. Everyone has had the same, and most far worse than
I, but I was very wretched and most shamefully cross. Omar said, 'That
is not you but the sickness,' when I found fault with everything, and it
was very true. I am still seedy. Also I am beyond measure exasperated
about my boat. I went up to the _Ata el-Khalig_ (cutting of the canal)
to see the great sight of the 'Bride of the Nile,' a lovely spectacle;
and on returning we all but sank. I got out into a boat of Zubeydeh's
with all my goods, and we hauled up my boat, and found her bottom rotten
from stem to stern. So here I am in the midst of wood merchants,
sawyers, etc., etc., rebuilding her bottom. My Reis said he had 'carried
her on his head all this time' but 'what could such a one as he say
against the word of a Howagah, like Ross's storekeeper?' When the
English cheat each other there remains nothing but to seek refuge with
God. Omar buys the wood and superintends, together with the Reis, and
the builders seem good workmen and fair-dealing. I pay day by day, and
have a scribe to keep the accounts. If I get out of it for 150 pounds I
shall think Omar has done wonders, for every atom has to be new. I never
saw anything so rotten afloat. If I had gone up the Cataract I should
never have come down alive. It is a marvel we did not sink long ago.
Mahbrook, Palgrave's boy, has arrived, and turns out well. He is a stout
lubberly boy, with infinite good humour, and not at all stupid, and
laughs a good real nigger yahyah, which brings the fresh breezes and
lilac mountains of the Cape before me when I hear it. When I tell him to
do anything he does it with strenuous care, and then asks, _tayib_? (is
it well) and if I say 'Yes' he goes off, as Omar says, 'like a cannon in
Ladyship's face,' in a guffaw of satisfaction. Achmet, who is half his
size, orders him about and teaches him, with an air of extreme dignity
and says pityingly to me, 'You see, oh Lady, he is quite new, quite
green.' Achmet, who had never seen a garment or any article of European
life two years ago, is now a smart valet, with very distinct ideas of
waiting at table, arranging my things etc. and cooks quite cleverly.
Arab boys are amazing. I have promoted him to wages--one napoleon a
month--so now he will keep his family. He is about a head taller than
Rainie.
I intend to write a paper on the various festivals and customs of Copts
and Muslims; but I must wait to see Abu Seyfeyn, near Luxor, the great
Christian Saint, where all go to be cured of possession--all mad people.
The Viceroy wages steady war against all festivals and customs. The
_Mahmal_ was burked this year, and the fair at Tantah forbidden. Then
the Europeans spoil all; the Arabs no longer go to the _Ata el-Khalig_,
and at the _Doseh_, the Frangee carriages were like the Derby day. It is
only up country that the real thing remains.
To-morrow my poor black sheep will be killed over the new prow of the
boat; his blood 'straked' upon her, and his flesh sodden and eaten by all
the workmen, to keep off the evil eye; and on the day she goes into the
water, some _Fikees_ will read the Koran in the cabin, and again there
will be boiled mutton and bread. The Christian _Ma-allimeen_ (skilled
workmen) hold to the ceremony of the sheep quite as much as the others,
and always do it over a new house, boat, mill, waterwheel etc.
Did I tell you Omar has another girl--about two months ago? His wife and
babies are to come up from Alexandria to see him, for he will not leave
me for a day, on account of my constantly being so ailing and weak. I
hope if I die away from you all, you will do something for Omar for my
sake, I cannot conceive what I should do without his faithful and loving
care. I don't know why he is so devotedly fond of me, but he certainly
does love me as he says 'like his mother,' and moreover as a very
affectionate son loves his other. How pleasant it would be if you could
come--but please don't run any risks of fatigue or exposure to cold on
your return. If you cannot come I shall go to Luxor early in October and
send back the boat to let. I hear from Luxor that the people are all
running away from the land, unable to pay triple taxes and eat bread: the
ruin is universal. The poor Sheykhs el-Beled, who had the honour of
dining with the Viceroy at Minieh have each had a squeeze politely
administered. One poor devil I know had to 'make a present' of 50
purses.
How is my darling Rainie? I do so long for her earnest eyes at times,
and wonder if I shall ever be able to get back to you all again. I fear
that break down at Soden sent me down a great terrace. I have never lost
the pain and the cough for a day since. I have not been out for an age,
or seen anyone. Would you know the wife of your bosom in a pair of pink
trousers and a Turkish _tob_? Such is my costume as I write. The woman
who came to sew could not make a gown, so she made me a pair of trousers
instead. Farewell, dearest, I dare hardly say how your hint of possibly
coming has made me wish it, and yet I dread to persuade you. The great
heat is quite over with the high Nile, and the air on the river fresh and
cool--cold at night even.