I arrived here last night and found a whole heap of letters--and yours I
will answer first. I had no heart to write any more from Alexandria
where I was worried out of all courage and strength. At last after
endless delays and vexations the dahabieh was _tant bien que mal_ ready.
Talk of Arab dawdle! after what I went through--and now I have to wait
here for fresh repairs, as we came up baling all the way and I fear
cursing the Christian workmen who had bungled so shamefully.
However that is over, and I am much better as to my cough--indeed it is
all but gone. Omar was very ill having had dysentery for two months, but
he too is well again. He is very grateful for your kind mention of him
and says, 'Send the Great Mother my best Salaam, and tell her her
daughter's people are my people, and where she goes I will go too, and
please God I will serve her rich or poor till "He who separates us" shall
take me from her.' The words of Ruth came after all these centuries
quite fresh from the soft Egyptian lips.
The 'He who separated us' I must explain to you. It is one of the
attributes of God, _The Separator of Religions_ implies toleration and
friendship by attributing the two religions alike to God--and is never
used towards one whose religion is not to be respected.
I have got a levee of former reis's, sailors, etc. some sick--but most
come to talk.
The climate changes quite suddenly as one leaves the Delta, and here I
sit at eight in the evening with open doors and windows.
I am so glad to hear of the great success of my dear Father's book, and
to think of your courage in working at it still.
I suppose I shall be here a week longer as I have several jobs to do to
my boat, and I shall try to get towed up so as to send back the boat as
soon as possible in order to let her. Ali will give 80 pounds a month
for her if he gets a party of four to take up. I pay my Reis five
napoleons a month while travelling and three while lying still. He is a
good, active little fellow.
We were nearly smashed under the railway bridge by an iron barge--and
_Wallah_! how the Reis of the bridge did whack the Reis of the barge. I
thought it a sad loss of time, but Reis Ali and my Reis Mohammed seemed
to look on the stick as the most effective way of extricating my anchor
from the Pasha's rudder. My crew can't say 'Urania' so they sing 'go
along, oh darling bride' _Arooset er-ralee_, as the little Sitt's best
description, and 'Arooset er-ralee' will be the dahabieh's exoteric
name--as '_El Beshoosheeh_, is my popular name.