I got your letter No. 3 about a week ago, and two others before it. I
have been very lazy in writing, for it has been very cold (for Thebes),
and I have been very seedy--no severe attack, but no strength at all.
The last three or four days the weather has been warm, and I am beginning
to feel better. I send this to Cairo by a clever, pleasant Mme. de
Beaulaincourt, a daughter of Marechal Castellane, who is here in one of
the Pasha's steamers. She will call on you when she goes to Alexandria.
I have been learning to write Arabic, and know my letters--no trifle, I
assure you. My Sheykh is a perfect darling--the most graceful, high-bred
young creature, and a Seyyid. These Saeedees are much nicer than the
Lower Egypt people. They have good Arab blood in their veins, keep
pedigrees, and are more manly and independent, and more liberal in
religion.
Sheykh Yussuf took me into the tomb of his ancestor, Sheykh Abul Hajjaj,
the great saint here, and all the company said a Fathah for my health.
It was on the night of Friday, and during the moolid of the Sheykh. Omar
was surprised at the proceeding, and a little afraid the dead Sheykh
might be offended. My great friend is the Maohn (police magistrate)
here--a very kind, good man, much liked, I hear, by all except the Kadee,
who was displeased at his giving the stick to a Mussulman for some wrong
to a Copt. I am beginning to stammer out a little Arabic, but find it
horribly difficult. The plurals are bewildering and the verbs quite
heart-breaking. I have no books, which makes learning very slow work. I
have written to Hekekian Bey to buy me a dictionary.
The house here is delightful--rather cold now, but will be perfect in hot
weather--so airy and cheerful. I think I shall stay on here all the time
the expense is nil, and it is very comfortable. I have a friend in a
farm in a neighbouring village, and am much amused at seeing country
life. It cannot be rougher, as regards material comforts, in New Zealand
or Central Africa, but there is no barbarism or lack of refinement in the
manners of the people. M. Mounier has invited me to go and stay with
them at El-Moutaneh, and offers to send his dahabieh for me. When it
gets really hot I shall like the trip very much.
Pray, when you see Mme. Tastu, say civil things for me, and tell her how
much I like the house. I think it wonderful that Omar cooked the dinner
without being cross. I am sure I should swear if I had to cook for a
heretic in Ramadan.