CHAPTER XXXIV

SOME FREAKS OF NATURE

Sinbad, the Sailor, the bird expert of the Arabian Nights, should

have come to New Zealand. Here he would have found a bird as tall as

a giraffe that laid eggs as big as a pumpkin. Sindbad was never able

to prove that his roc really existed, but if you will come out to New

Zealand, you can see for yourself remains of its giant bird, the moa.

There is a stuffed one at Christchurch, besides the skeletons of a

dozen others. I have examined the real eggs the moa laid when it trod

the soil of this country a century or so ago.

The great moa is supposed to be the biggest bird ever created. I sat

down before the huge model of it in the museum at Christchurch and made

these notes: “If I were to stand under the bird its tail feathers would

tickle the top of my head. Its ankle is as big around as my calf and

its gray body is the size of a small haystack. Its tall, thin neck is

stretched so high above its breast that Barnum’s circus managers would

have had a hard time getting the animal into a freight car. Its legs

are as strong as those of a camel, and it looks quite as big as the

biggest ‘ship of the desert.’ Its enormous feet have claws much like

those of a turkey, save that each is a foot long. I doubt not the moa

could have stamped out the life of a man at one kick.” Beside one of

the skeletons is placed the skeleton of an ordinary man. The head of

the bird rises at least eight feet above the skull of the man.

[Illustration: Next to the kauri pine, the totara is the most valuable

timber tree of the Dominion. The country has been denuded of so much of

its forests that conservation policies have become necessary.]

[Illustration: On the slopes of Mt. Cook near the Tasman Glacier the

government has established a sanctuary for the kea parrot, which is

elsewhere destroyed on sight because of its sheep-killing habit.]

The bones of the moa were first discovered about eighty years ago, and

later great quantities of them were found. The bird existed in New

Zealand within a comparatively recent period and there are Maoris who

say that their forefathers knew of it. The probability is that it was

here long before the Maoris came, and there is no doubt that it was

once hunted and eaten in great numbers. In old ovens that have been

excavated bones of cooked moa have been found. But as for who the moa

hunters were and when they lived, no one knows.

The moa eggs were each about a foot long. One was found some years

ago by a labourer digging the foundation of a house. He had gone down

several feet when he came upon the skeleton of a man in a sitting

posture. The egg was held in the skeleton’s bony fingers in such

a manner as to bring it immediately opposite the mouth, and it is

supposed that it was placed there with the idea that the ghost of the

dead might have something to eat during the intervals of his long

sleep. The stone spear and axe by the side of the man showed that he

was probably a warrior, and his skull bore evidence of having received

several hard knocks, possibly on the battlefield. The egg was ten

inches long and seven inches in diameter and its shell was about as

thick as a twenty-five-cent piece. It was perfectly empty, but whether

time or the dead warrior had sucked out the contents the records do not

say.

Though a bird, the moa had no wings. It seems to have been a giant

edition of some of the strange birds New Zealand has now; for there

are to-day in the Dominion wingless birds not larger than good-sized

chickens. I refer to the kiwis, some of which I have seen alive here

at Christchurch. I have had several of them in my hands, and by feeling

carefully I found what seemed like a little lump on each side where

the wings ought to be. Some say that the kiwi is without wings because

the dense growth of the New Zealand bush prevented its flights and

so, through the ages, it lost its wings for lack of use. It makes up

for this deficiency, however, by its swiftness of foot. It runs very

fast, with its body held in an oblique position and its neck stretched

forward. This bird has hair-like feathers of somewhat the colour of a

quail, and a long bill, sharp at the point, with which it can bore down

into the mud for worms. Its legs are much like those of the moa.

The kiwi is a night bird. At Canterbury College, where I saw them, the

birds were penned up like chickens and had to be brought out of the

coop for me to examine them. They seemed almost blinded by the light

and ran about this way and that in apparent terror. Kiwis are becoming

scarce in New Zealand, for the Maoris are fond of them as food, and

their feathers are highly prized for cloaks. They are now to be found

only in the dense beds of ferns covering parts of New Zealand. It is

difficult to catch them, for they look much like the dead fern leaves

and take refuge in crevices in the rocks and in the deep holes that

they dig in the ground for their nests. They used to be hunted with

dogs.

One of the most curious things about this bird is the size of its egg,

which is almost as big as the kiwi itself. It is a creamy white colour

and as smooth and as glossy as ivory.

Another New Zealand bird quite as strange as the kiwi is the kea

parrot, which kills sheep. Thousands of sheep have been destroyed by

these birds, the loss from them being so great that the government

pays a bounty of one dollar a head. As many as fifteen thousand keas

have been killed in a year, though they are no longer as numerous as

formerly. The kea has fastidious tastes. It does not care for any part

of the sheep except the kidneys and the fat surrounding them. It has

become as expert in anatomy as a surgeon and has learned just where the

sheep’s kidneys lie. I am told that it strikes the right spot every

time. Fastening its talons into the wool on the animal’s back it bores

with its bill into the side of the sheep directly over the kidneys,

making a hole as smooth as though the flesh had been cut round with a

knife. The kea tears out the kidneys and the fat, and then leaves the

sheep to die in great agony.

There are different theories as to how keas acquired this strange

taste. Until sheep were introduced into New Zealand the birds had lived

on berries and insects. Then they began to pick the meat from the sheep

skins hung up to dry. Later on they attacked the live sheep, and after

a time, having discovered the kidneys, ignored every other part of the

animal. Whether the birds talk to each other or not I do not know,

but they hand on to one another as effectively as though they had a

language their gruesome way of butchering sheep.

There is one place in the Dominion where the kea’s life is safe. This

is at the Hermitage, on the sunny slopes of Mount Cook, where the

government maintains a sanctuary, in order that this parrot may not

become entirely extinct. The Hermitage is the starting place for those

who try to scale New Zealand’s loftiest mountain, and some of the

people who have stayed there bring back stories of the doings of the

keas. They are great thieves, and one woman tells how her moccasins

were stolen from the windowsill of her room. Others complain of being

kept awake at night by the keas squawking and clawing up and down on

the corrugated-iron roof of the hotel. If the birds get hold of a

pillow they will tear it all to pieces, perhaps thinking that inside

the soft substance they will find some of the kidney fat they love.

Kiwis and keas are, however, but a few of the freaks that Mother Nature

has placed in this out-of-the-way part of the world. There are others

so strange that I hesitate to mention them. In New Zealand there are

no kangaroos, but there are marsupial rats here, and I saw at the

college a mouse not much larger than a good-sized cricket with a pouch

for bringing up its young. This mouse, which is one of the smallest

marsupials known, is now very rare. It is a part of the biological

collection of the college museum at Christchurch, and was shown me by

the chief biologist. He showed me also a live lizard, the tuatera,

which is a descendant of a family of three-eyed lizards. The third

eye is in the middle of the head and, is clearly visible through the

skin of the young animal, but becomes thickly covered when he reaches

maturity. The scientists say there is little doubt that this eye was

once used. The lizard I looked at was about a foot long, and, I should

say, measured two inches in diameter.

But better than the mother mouse and the three-eyed lizard, I liked the

black swans of New Zealand. They are to be seen in all parts of the

islands, and one can shoot them anywhere around the lakes. They are

even more beautiful than the white swans, and as they sail along in

the water their feathers look just like black plush. Then there are the

swamp hens which, with their bright blue bodies and red legs, look, as

a woman who had been in the United States said to me the other day,

“like your Mystic Shriners on parade.”

I must not forget to mention the strangest pet any country ever had.

This was a dolphin, the only whale I ever heard of which had its own

special act of Parliament. When passing through Pelorus Sound on the

trip between Wellington on the North Island and Nelson on the South

Island one always hears the story of “Pelorus Jack.” He was a big

silvery gray fellow, different from all the other whales in these

waters, and he had a habit of going out to meet incoming ships. He

would escort them for miles and then go back to his own haunts. He

would play about the vessels and even rub himself against their sides,

and one theory was that he came to the boats so as to rub his back

against their keels, and thus rid himself of parasites. Another was

that he loved playing in the waves ruffled up by the ships.

The fame of “Pelorus Jack” spread until there were tourist trips into

the Sound to see him and Parliament passed a law to protect him, for

there was always a fear that some of the whalers in these waters might

kill him. In fact, it was said that one ship injured him and that he

would never meet that steamer again. But at last he disappeared. Some

hold a party of Norwegian whalers responsible for his death, while

others believe he was killed by one of the mines sowed by a German

raider during the World War. Perhaps he merely died of old age, for the

Maoris claim that he was not under two hundred and seventy-five years

old. Once, it is said, he had a mate, but, if so, he never brought his

wife out to greet the tourists.

New Zealand has some curiosities of vegetable life quite as remarkable

as those of her animal world. One of the strangest is what is known

as the vegetable caterpillar. This looks like a real caterpillar, two

inches long, with a sprout, like a horn, growing out of its head.

When it is full grown the sprout comes out and takes root and becomes

a vigorous plant about eight inches tall, with a single stem, but no

leaf. The only one I have seen was a plant that had been dried after

being taken out of the ground.

I might also speak of New Zealand flax, which I have seen at many

places on the islands. This flax, which grows wild and on swamp lands,

has thick blades about two inches wide and five or six feet long. In

the middle of the clustered blades grows the tall, straight flax stick

with seed pods at the top. The upstanding New Zealand men are often

called “flax sticks.” When the blades are harvested, at intervals of

three years, the green covering is stripped from them, leaving the

fibre exposed. This is washed, hung up to bleach, and then made into

tow and cordage. It competes successfully with the hemp of Manila,

and thousands of tons are exported every year. Of late years the flax

fields have suffered from a small fly which makes holes in the leaves

and so reduces the quantity of good fibre. Since it has been found that

drained swamp lands make the richest dairy farms, it is a question

whether it is best to drain them for cattle runs or leave them to

produce flax.

A product almost as valuable as flax in the export trade of the

Dominion is kauri gum. It is a solidified turpentine, or fossil resin,

which is found in great chunks in the ground in the North Island.

The lumps may be the size of a walnut or as big as a man’s head, and

single pieces have been found weighing as much as one hundred pounds.

It is often as clear as amber, but varies greatly in colour. Sometimes

it is a rich yellow, sometimes brown, and sometimes just the colour

of champagne. Some of the best of it is sold to the manufacturers of

varnish and linoleums, the bulk of it being sent to the United States.

Kauri gum is by no means a cheap article, selling for more than four

hundred and fifty dollars a ton, and the annual export is worth nearly

two million dollars.

Hundreds of men go over the kauri forests with spears and picks looking

for this gum. They drive their spears down into the earth and when

they strike a piece, dig it out. The gum lies within a limited area,

consisting of about seven hundred thousand acres north of Auckland and

about thirty thousand acres southeast of that city. Part of this is

government land, upon which the right to dig kauri is sold at so much a

year.

Most of the diggers are Austrians, but some are Maoris and some

English-Australian settlers. The Austrians make a regular business of

hunting kauri and work in bands of thirty or more. The settlers dig for

the gum when they are not farming, and the Maoris seek it to supplement

their funds when food runs low. Many of the Austrian gum diggers make

more than twenty-five dollars a week.

This gum appears on the kauri pine, a tree that often grows one hundred

and fifty feet high and twelve feet in diameter. The kauri is about

the best timber of New Zealand, and is used largely in building and

furniture making. The gum comes from the great forests of the past

which have rotted away. Some of the standing kauri trees are bled for

their resin like our turpentine forests of the southern states, but

this method is illegal, and most of the product is still obtained from

the deposits in the ground.

Kauri gum is used by the varnish and linoleum manufacturers because

it assimilates oil easily and at low temperatures. As the New Zealand

deposits are worked from year to year the gum gets more and more

expensive and in anticipation of their giving out the question of

substitutes has been studied. China-wood oil, extracted from nuts, and

exported from Hankow, China, is now being extensively used and has

become a keen competitor of kauri.

[Illustration: Kauri gum is the fossilized resin of the kauri pine

forests of the past. It is dug from the ground, and most of it is

exported to the United States to be used in the manufacture of varnish

and linoleum.]

[Illustration: We call a tall, straight person a “bean pole,” but the

New Zealanders say he is a “flax stick,” borrowing their comparison

from the seed-bearing stalk that rises from the centre of the native

flax.]

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