CHAPTER XV

GOLD DIGGINGS IN CREEK AND DESERT

I am in Ballarat, the heart of what was once the chief mining district

of this golden continent. Within a stone’s throw of me was found a

lump of gold as big as a watermelon and from under the hotel where I

stay fortunes in gold have been taken. Every bit of earth in sight has

been run through a sieve again and again to wash out the precious dust

it contained, and for miles about the valley of Yarrowee Creek has

been honeycombed with diggings. It is even said that the water in some

of the deepest mines contains gold. One story is told of how several

barrels of water from here were hermetically sealed and sent off to

Paris. They were kept there for years, and when opened were discovered

to have precipitated several gold nuggets. I doubt the truth of this

story!

Gold was known to exist in Australia long before 1851, when Hargraves,

an Australian who had prospected in California, discovered it in paying

quantities. Hargraves had gone to California in the gold rush of ’48

and had failed, but he was haunted by the idea that the gold country in

California resembled a certain valley in the hills of New South Wales.

This valley was that in which Ballarat lies. He decided to go back home

and prospect. He did so and his discoveries threw all Australia into a

fever. In a short time it was proved that every creek within a radius

of seventy miles from here had gold in its sands, and in the placer

mines opened at Ballarat gold was found in great lumps.

One of the first big nuggets weighed one hundred and one pounds, while

the “Welcome” nugget weighed as much as a good-sized man, tipping the

scales at one hundred and eighty-four pounds and nine ounces. I have

seen models of the nuggets in the mining museums of Queensland, of New

South Wales, and of Victoria, as well as in the different state mining

schools. The “Welcome” nugget, which was the size of a big baby, was

twenty inches long, twelve inches wide, and seven inches thick. It

was sold in Melbourne for fifty thousand dollars. In 1858 a lump of

gold worth twenty thousand dollars was found in New South Wales, and

fourteen years later a mass of gold and quartz weighing six hundred and

thirty-nine pounds was discovered at Hills End in the same state. An

offer of one hundred and sixty-five thousand dollars for it was refused.

Some of the most remarkable mines of Victoria were at Bendigo, about a

hundred miles from Melbourne, where in the height of their production

the goldfields yielded more than a million dollars a year. The mines

at Ballarat are now worked out, but quartz mining is still carried on

at Bendigo Amalgamated, a consolidation of the mines in that region.

The average yield is about one hundred and sixty-five thousand ounces a

year. Since 1851 the mines of Victoria have produced upward of one and

a half billion dollars’ worth of gold.

The Ballarat of to-day is not like the Ballarat of the great gold rush.

Then it was a city of tents, which probably housed more people than the

present population of twenty thousand. Now it is a well-built town,

with many comfortable homes, and streets as wide and as well paved as

those of Washington. The principal thoroughfare is lined with marble

statues, and there are others scattered throughout the long park in the

suburbs.

Ballarat has good stores and banks, and even a stock exchange, but

there is not a mine-shaft house in sight. The people are especially

proud of their theatre seating three thousand, an art gallery

containing some fairly good paintings, and a mechanics’ institute

with a library of twenty-two thousand volumes. It has four other

free libraries, good public schools, and churches of every Christian

denomination under the sun. It has flour mills, woollen mills, and iron

factories. The town has become the commercial centre of a rich pastoral

and agricultural region. It is seventy-five miles from Melbourne by

rail, and on the main road from Melbourne to Adelaide.

The mining school at Ballarat is, I venture, as well equipped as

any similar institution in the United States. I had letters to its

superintendent from the director of the mint at Melbourne, and its

president kindly showed me through. The college is built over a gold

mine which it operates to give practical training to the students. The

boys go down into the shafts and work the mine, thus learning by actual

experience how gold is taken out of the earth. Connected with the

school are all sorts of reduction works run by the students, including

cyanide plants, a chlorination plant, and facilities for all the

various methods of treating ore. There are large chemical laboratories,

assay furnaces, and, in short, everything needed for such a college.

To-day Victoria and Western Australia are the leading gold-producing

states of the Commonwealth. I have talked with miners from Western

Australia, who tell me that much of the vast territory has not been

touched. Said one mining expert:

“The gold we know of extends over an area of more than six hundred

thousand square miles. You can take dirt from the road at any point

along a thousand miles, wash it, and find colour.”

Kimberley, where gold was discovered in the eighties, was the first

of the Western Australia fields, and it proved a disappointment. The

prospectors there were working along dispiritedly when in 1892 a man

rode into the town of Southern Cross with great news. He brought with

him ten thousand dollars’ worth of nuggets and dust picked up in two

days in a desert region that the aborigines called “Goldarda.” There

are still old-timers to tell of the scenes that followed. In two hours

the price of a horse rose from ten dollars to two hundred and fifty

dollars. Camels could not be had. Dogs, cows, and goats were at a

premium. So was anything on wheels, from buggies to baby carriages.

Some men set off with wheelbarrows. In a day or two Southern Cross was

practically deserted, and its inhabitants were trekking across the

hundred and twenty-five miles of desert that lay between them and the

new strike at Coolgardie. They did not even know the location of the

water holes along the route. Many were two or three weeks on the way

and arrived with tongues swollen and lips cracked and blackened from

thirst.

[Illustration: In parts of Western Australia, where water cannot be

had, gold is dry-blown. The soil is first sifted for nuggets and then

the metal is separated from lighter waste by means of bellows.]

[Illustration: More than ten thousand camels are used in the dry back

blocks, especially in the mining districts of Western Australia.

Sometimes it may cost five dollars or more to give one a real drink.]

In a few weeks the news brought men from all parts of Australia; in

a few months it attracted them from all parts of the world. Capital

became interested. The Wealth of Nations mine at Coolgardie, from which

three great nuggets were taken at once, but which later proved only

a low-grade mine, was discovered by an Indian camel driver who was paid

two dollars and a half for his find. The owners of the camel took out

more than a hundred thousand dollars’ worth of gold and then sold the

mine for seven hundred thousand dollars. The original Coolgardie claim

yielded more than two and a half million dollars in its first ten years.

In 1893, when the Coolgardie claims were giving out, a grocer of

Adelaide formed a syndicate of fifteen people with a capital of less

than a thousand dollars. The prospectors they sent out turned up the

riches of the famous Golden Mile of Kalgoorlie. Five years later, when

the syndicate was disbanded, it voted its original capital as a bonus

to its secretary. The value of the shares, based on its holdings at

the Golden Mile, was then more than thirty-six million dollars. At

that date the syndicate had produced seventeen tons of gold. The money

distributed to the Adelaide shareholders was close to five millions in

cash, besides upward of seventeen millions in stock.

The great handicap in the Kalgoorlie, Coolgardie, and other desert

mines was lack of water, which then cost about as much as gasoline does

now. In the Coolgardie fields water brought as much as twenty-five and

fifty cents a gallon, and there was a regular business of evaporating

and condensing salt water from the lakes and wells to make it fit to

drink.

It was impossible to get enough to wash out the gold, which had to be

dry-blown. That is, the soil spaded from shallow trenches was first

sifted for nuggets, then thrown into the wind and expertly caught in

iron pans. It was tossed up again and again to get rid of the lighter

waste. Later on bellows worked by hand or foot power were used, and

still later fanning mills were introduced. I am told that in those

early “roaring nineties” one could see above the mining camps in the

desert a red cloud of dust. This “hell cloud,” as it was called, hid

the miners from view, and out of it came the sound of laughter and

curses, and the roar of the gravel raining into thousands of iron pans.

Although at that time the whole of Western Australia had only about

as many people to pay its taxes as Des Moines has now, the government

did a great deal to help get water for the miners. In the Coolgardie

district it built a number of tanks, bored artesian wells, and

installed condensers. Kalgoorlie now has a reservoir with a capacity of

five million gallons. It is fed by a stream through a steel pipe as big

around as a barrel and three hundred and fifty miles long. The water

comes from a point near Perth and is lifted by a series of pumps to a

height of about thirteen hundred feet. The Western Australia government

sells it at an average rate of seventy-five cents a thousand gallons;

in the early days water used to cost sixteen times as much. Without

this pipe line Australia’s best gold mines would have to be abandoned,

and the cities of Coolgardie, Kalgoorlie, and Boulder would sink back

into a forlorn desert. Nowadays, as one of the old prospectors put it,

“Water? They _waste_ it! At Kalgoorlie, _they even bathe in it_, at

twenty-five cents a head!”

In developing Western Australia’s mineral wealth, camels have proved

almost as invaluable as water. They had been introduced into the

country in the early days and multiplied faster than in their native

Arabia. Along with them came their nomadic or Bedouin drivers, who

found Australian wages to their liking and stayed on, although in many

cases their jobs have now been taken by white men. It is estimated

that more than twelve thousand camels are worked in the dry back blocks

of the continent. The ungainly beasts stalk back and forth between the

railway terminals of the east and the dry lands of the west. From the

silver-mining centre at Broken Hill in western New South Wales they

start out for the northwestern part of the state and for interior South

Australia, Queensland, and the Northern Territory. From “The Hill” they

take supplies to the remote sheep stations, returning with wool. Three

hundred and fifty camels are worked by the water-supply branch of the

Western Australian government. They serve the gold prospectors and the

settlers of the “Never-Never Land,” and they are the police and mail

carriers of the desert blocks.

In the desert gold-mining camps a considerable expense of doing

business is watering the camels. A camel ordinarily drinks seven or

eight gallons, when thirsty he will take in twenty gallons, and after

several days without water forty gallons are hardly enough to fill him

up. Where water is scarce it may cost his owner two or three dollars to

treat his mount to a drink; one camel just in from a long trip drank

fourteen dollars’ worth before he was satisfied.

But before I leave the subject of gold mining in Australia let me tell

you of the visit I made to the mint at Melbourne where for many years

gold dust and bullion have been turned into sovereigns. The gold comes

from different sections of Australia and after being coined is shipped

off to London. The greater part of the metal goes into sovereigns and

half sovereigns.

I went through this money mill with its director. We first watched

the gold as it came in. Some of it was dust, but much was in the

form of bullion bricks from the smelters. As it was handed over the

counter the clerks weighed it, using scales so fine that they can

weigh accurately a golden grain as small as the point of a pin or a

great nugget the size of my head. After the gold has been weighed a

memorandum of the amount is made for the depositor, which he presents

at the cashier’s office to get his money.

Leaving this room we went on to see how the smelting was done. The gold

is melted in crucibles or pots of fine clay and plumbago. Each pot has

a capacity of perhaps half a gallon of liquid gold. It is fitted into

a little furnace not unlike the forge of a country blacksmith, set in

a long, narrow ledge on one side of the melting room. In the room we

entered there were twenty of such furnaces, nearly all of them filled

with gold. The fuel used is coke, and a strong draught makes such a

heat that the metal bubbles like boiling water. I was dazzled when I

looked into the pots. The liquid was emerald rather than gold. I saw it

poured out into moulds and the stream was a current of beautiful molten

green on a background of light yellow. Later, when the moulds were

opened, the green had disappeared and the metal had become a bright

golden yellow.

I next watched the bars of bullion being rolled into the strips from

which the gold coins are cut. Each was a ruler of gold twenty-five

inches long, two inches wide, and not quite half an inch thick. I

followed a truck load of these bars as they were wheeled into the

rolling room. Here they were pressed between great steel rollers,

which made them longer and thinner. At the finish each bar had become

fourteen feet long and was just the thickness of a sovereign. Moreover,

the pressing had polished it so that it shone like a new wedding ring.

I noticed that the workmen wore thick gloves, and was told that this

was because the strips of metal get hot as they are rolled.

[Illustration: Once treated with scant consideration, the shearers

who now have one of the strongest unions in the country are veritable

autocrats about their hours, wages, and quarters. Every afternoon they

knock off for tea and a smoke.]

[Illustration: Like 600,000 other Australians, these leather workers

are union men with good wages, fair hours, and a weekly half holiday.

Forty-eight hours is the weekly maximum, though in some trades as

little as thirty-six hours count as full time.]

[Illustration: The agriculturist feels keenly the need for more people

on the land, but he stands with the trade unions in opposition to

letting in swarms of coloured labour from the over-populated Orient.]

The next process is making the blanks. This is done by steel punches

which cut the metal into disks much as a cook cuts the dough in making

biscuits. I stood beside this machine and heard it chop, chop, chop,

as it punched out sovereigns at the rate of ninety to the minute,

twenty-seven thousand dollars per hour.

Each blank is weighed to see that it has exactly the right weight of

gold for a sovereign, and is then run through a coining press which

stamps the image of the king upon it and at the same time mills the

edges. All of this work is done with cold steel pressing upon the cold

gold. The only heat after the melting is that which comes from the

pressure caused by the enormous weight on the metal.

I have no doubt that Australia will be turning virgin gold into

sovereigns for years and years to come, but its production of the

precious metal is on the wane. The mines of Kalgoorlie are still

paying, but those of Coolgardie are worked out. The annual production

for the whole country is now only half that of Victoria in its best

days, and is considerably below the best year’s output in Queensland

and Western Australia. It may be, though, that more Golden Miles lie

hidden under the vast unprospected areas of the continent.

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