EXPLORATION OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY.
CHICAGO--CRYING INDIANS--CHICKASAWS--DE SOTO--FEAST OF THE GREAT SUN--
CANE KNIVES--LOVE-STRICKEN INDIAN MAIDEN--RAPE OF THE NATCHEZ--MAN'S
WILL--SUBJUGATION OF THE WATERS--THE BLACK MAN'S MISSION--ITS DECADE.
La Salle, who first discovered the mouth of the Mississippi River, was
a man of most remarkable energy and enterprise. He had been engaged in
commercial pursuits for some time in Canada; but, seized with the
spirit of adventure--very probably inspired by the reports of the
Jesuit missionaries, who were going and returning from the vast
wilderness--and inspired with the belief (then common) that the rivers
west, and particularly the great river found by De Soto, debouched into
the Pacific Ocean, he determined to learn the truth, and projected and
commenced the ascent of the St. Lawrence and the navigation of the
lakes as a means of reaching the Mississippi. It required almost
superhuman daring to undertake such an enterprise; but there was enough
in La Salle to accomplish anything possible to human capacity. His
followers, like himself, were fearless and determined and, with a few
small boats, or skiffs, he commenced his perilous adventure. It was
like walking in the dark over uncertain ground; for every step was over
unexplored territory, the moment he passed the establishments of the
Jesuits, who were then pioneering to propagate their creed among the
aborigines of the new continent.
His first winter was spent on the spot, or in the immediate
neighborhood of where Chicago now stands. Here he invited to his camp
the neighboring Indians, and endeavored to learn as much as possible of
the geography of the country he was about to explore. Parties were sent
out with these Indians to ascertain if there was any stream or
water-communication leading from Lake Michigan to the West, and which
might connect it with the Mississippi. Sufficient of the language of
the tribes about him had been acquired to establish a means of
intelligent intercourse with them. They were curious to know the
objects of the visit of the white strangers to their country. Always
suspicious of strangers--supposing all, like themselves, treacherous
and cruel--they kept on the alert and were chary of giving any
information they might possess as to this, or any other matters about
which the white men asked; but, watchful of their movements, and seeing
from their explorations their intentions, they became convinced of the
sincerity of their inquiries, and readily pointed out the portage
dividing the waters of Chicago Creek and those of the Illinois River.
When the spring came, and the snows had melted away, and the boats were
all over the portage, with the assistance of the savages, the
expedition was renewed in the descent of the Illinois. The Indians had
been so kindly treated, and so sincerely dealt with, that every
suspicion that made them fear the whites was dissipated, and they were
loath to part from them, and many accompanied the party until they were
about entering the territory of hostile neighbors. Of these they seemed
to entertain great fears, and every means of persuasion and warning
were used to prevent their white friends hazarding themselves to the
power of these enemies. When the last were to leave, they manifested
more emotion than is usual with the savage, and one of La Salle's party
more facetious than the Indian designated them the Crying Indians.
La Salle was a wise as well as a bold adventurer. His policy with all
the tribes he encountered was kindness and truth. These were human
beings, and he correctly judged influenced by the motives and impulses
of men. They had never seen white men before, and there could be no
cause of quarrel, and there was little in the possession of the whites,
the use of which was known to the Indian to tempt his cupidity. He
manifested no fears in approaching them. Their curiosity tempted them
to come to him, and once met, his kindness and gentleness won them; and
he experienced no opposition or trouble from any he met; but succeeded
in gaining much information from his communications with them. When he
reached the Mississippi he began to doubt the accepted theory of its
discharging its waters into the Pacific, and upon reaching the mouth of
the Missouri and counseling with the chief of the tribe he met there,
he at once determined the speculation a delusion, and decided to
prosecute his journey to the mouth of the mighty stream, now with
almost irresistible impetuosity hurrying on his little flotilla. This
chief by many signs and diagrams marked with his finger upon the sand
of the beach, described the country out of which flowed the Missouri,
and into which went the Mississippi, and seemed to comprehend at least
the extent of its constantly accumulating waters and great length. Like
all the other savages, he represented the dangers below as being too
formidable for the small party of La Salle. He described the Natchez
Indians and gave them a terrible character; then the monsters of the
woods and the waters. He marked the form of the tiger, the bear, and
the alligator and described them as aggressive and ferocious. Taking a
handful of sand he scattered it on the boat's floor or bottom, and
pointing to the separate particles, attempted to explain by this means
the countless numbers of these Indians, and monsters of the country
below. Here was his first information of the existence of the Natchez,
but his information augmented as he descended the river. At the bluffs,
where now is Memphis, he encountered the Chickasaws and learned of the
visit of De Soto to that point, and of his death. These Indians warned
him of the dangers he had to encounter. They had had trouble with De
Soto and were chary of their intercourse with the whites, but
manifested no hostility.
The next tribe of Indians seen was at the Walnut Hills, now Vicksburg.
Their flat heads told him he had reached the country of that formidable
nation, but he held no communication with them. Landing at the great
bluff or Natchez, he found there quite a village. The natives
approached him manifesting the kindest and most hospitable intentions.
For some days he delayed, to learn as much as possible from these
people in the observation of their character and the topography and
peculiarities of the country they were inhabiting. Runners had been
dispatched to the Great Sun at the White Apple village, to inform him
of the advent of these pale-faced strangers, with beard on their chins.
Like information was communicated to the towns on Cole's Creek and
further in the interior. La Salle was furnished with pilots and
requested to drop down to the White Cliffs, now known as Ellis' Cliffs,
eighteen miles below Natchez, where a delegation would meet and conduct
him to the White Apple village. These pilots caused the landing of the
party at the mouth of St. Catharine's Creek, a point much nearer the
village than the cliffs, and from whence it was much more easily
approached. Thence they conducted them to the village and temple of the
Great Sun. They came by surprise, and there was manifested some
suspicions of the motive. But being informed it was the work of the
pilots, all were satisfied and a messenger dispatched for the great
escort awaiting the party at White Cliffs.
There were great preparations made for a solemn feast. Game in
abundance had been collected: the meat of the deer and the bear and
every variety of the wild-fowl peculiar to the country and season.
These were spread out upon tables made of the wild-cane, placed upon
poles sustained by posts driven into the ground, and covered with
neatly dressed skins of the bear, elk, and buffalo. There were fish in
abundance, the paupaw and the berries which grew abundantly in the
forest. The Great Sun led La Salle to the centre of the square formed
by the tables, where one had been prepared for him and the great ruler
of the Natchez. Rude seats were arranged only for these two. The Little
Suns, or smaller chiefs of surrounding villages, assembled with the
great warriors and whites accompanying the expedition at the tables
forming the square. These Indians had knives formed from the wild cane
of the country and hardened in the fire, which were used for carving
their meats and other like purposes, one of these was placed in the
hand of every white man. The Great Sun standing up, looked reverently
upon the sun for a few moments. Then lifting his hands, placed them on
the head of La Salle. This was imitated by the Little Suns placing
their hands upon the heads of all the whites, and when the chief or
Great Sun removed his hands, and said, "Eat," the Little Suns did
likewise, and the feast commenced. These cane knives, however, were
comparatively useless in the hands of the French, and laying them down,
they took from the belts at their sides the large hunting-knives they
carried. This movement was so simultaneous, that alarm was apparent in
every Indian face and a movement was made by the Indians as if to leave
the table; but they were soon reassured when they saw the use to which
they were applied. They watched the ease with which these cut through
the flesh and cleaved the smaller bones of their repast, and expressed
their astonishment in asking where the canes grew from which they were
made--indicating conclusively that they had never before seen a
metallic knife, and probably never before had seen iron or steel. When
the feast had concluded, La Salle was led to a lodge prepared for him,
and all his party were shown to places prepared for them, to repose
after the meal. Upon the males retiring, the women came forth cleanly
clad and removed everything from the tables.
This was the first view the whites had of the Natchez women. When their
work was completed, they commenced to chant a song in slow and measured
tones; soon, however, it quickened into merry cadences and the young
females commenced a wild, fantastic dance. The older sang on, keeping
time by slapping their hands and a swinging movement of the head and
body right and left. Apparently, at the termination of a stanza, they
would stoop suddenly forward and slap the hands upon each thigh,
uttering at the same moment a shrill cry, when the dancers would leap
with astonishing agility high in the air and, alighting, stand
perfectly still. This exhibition called the French from their repose,
who seemed delighted, and very soon joined in the dance; mirth excited
mirth, and in a little while the village was in a complete uproar. The
young warriors, however, were seen to scowl whenever the French
approached too nigh the women, and especially when they took their
hands and turned them around. The French were not slow to perceive
this, nor were they mistaken in the delight it afforded the girls. The
timidity of the latter soon disappeared and each lass singled out a
beau, and was quite familiar with him. The French remained for some
days enjoying the hospitality of the Natchez, returning to their boats
and to the opposite shore of the river at night for greater security.
Among the French there was one, a stalwart young fellow, who had made
the conquest of a heart among the maidens, and was surprised late at
night to find she had swum the Mississippi to place herself by his side
at the camp-fire. She implored him to remain with the Natchez and
become a Great Sun, that her family was one of great influence at the
White Clay village of which she was the belle, and she would marry him.
She was rich, and the favorite of the Little Sun of her town, who had
given her great presents. But Crapaud was aware of the price of these
gifts, and though he did not refuse, was not inclined to the union, or
to remain with her people. He promised, however, to see her to-morrow,
and told her if he could prevail on some of his companions to remain,
he would; but insisted if they would not, she must consent to follow
him and provide a girl for each of his companions, who would accompany
them to their homes, which he made very lovely in his description. They
were standing now on the bank of the river and day was approaching. She
pointed to the planet just above the horizon, and then to the place in
the heavens where it would be in an hour, and said she must then be in
her lodge, and plunging into the river swam rapidly to the opposite
shore. The next day was the one appointed for the departure of La Salle
and party. True to her promise--the Natchez girl had found a maiden for
each of the party, who was willing to abandon her people and go with
the strangers on their perilous and unknown journey, and to be the
wives of the pale-faces.
The French, with much ceremony, were dismissed by the Great Sun, and a
strong escort of both sexes followed them to their boats. The ceremony
of shaking hands was gone through with; all the men first, and then the
women; the last, as previously arranged, were the girls who were to
follow their sweethearts. At a signal each was grasped and hurried
forward toward the boats. The alarm was given, and in a moment the bows
of the warriors were strung, and they rushed yelling to the rescue;
overpowered, the French released the women and springing into their
boats were soon out of danger of the arrows which were sent in showers
after them--nor did they escape unscathed. Several of the men were
wounded, and some of them severely. When once away from the shore, the
French seized their guns and fired a volley, but were prevented from
further demonstrations by La Salle; not wishing to leave behind him an
enemy, who might be troublesome to him on his return up the river.
This adventure was the only hostile one of the entire trip. This was
provoked by the folly and crime of his men without the knowledge of La
Salle. How true it is that man in every condition and of every race
will fight for his woman as surely as the game cock for his hen! Long
years after, and when the last Natchez had been gone from the land of
his love many years, and when threatening war was disturbing the people
of the colonies, there came here a band of men, as had come to this
land of beauty and plenty, the oppressors of the Natchez, seeking to
make a peaceful home upon these hills, where grew in luxuriant
profusion the magnolia and great tulip-trees, and where the atmosphere
was redolent with the perfume of the wild flowers which clothed and
ornamented the trees and grounds so fruitful and rich with nature's
gifts.
The country was claimed as part of West Florida and dominated by the
Spanish Government. They were anxious to have the country populated,
and donated certain quantities or tracts of land to any one who came to
settle and remain in the country. These settlements at first were made
on the bluffs projecting through the alluvial swamp to the river's
brink, and at or near the mouths of the small streams debouching into
the river from the eastern shore. The west bank was deemed
uninhabitable in consequence of the spring floods sweeping over the
alluvial formation, extending from forty to seventy miles west of the
river; and there being no highlands or bluffs approaching the river
from the west, below what is now known as Helena, in Arkansas, this
vast territory was one interminable swamp, clothed with immense
forest-trees, gigantic vines, and jungle-bushes. It was interspersed
with lakes, and bayous as reservoirs and drains for the wonderful
floods which annually visit this country. Around these were lands
remarkable for their fertility--indeed, unsurpassed by any on the face
of the earth; but worthless, however, for cultivation, as long as
unprotected against these annual floods. The system of leveeing was too
onerous and expensive to be undertaken by the people sparsedly
populating the eastern bank throughout the hill-country. The levee
system which had reclaimed so much of the low country in Louisiana, had
not extended above Pointe Coupée, in 1826. Yet there were some
settlements on several of the lakes above, especially on Lakes
Concordia and St. Joseph.
The immense country in Georgia, Tennessee, Alabama, and Mississippi in
possession of the Indians, interposed a barrier to emigration. To think
of leaving home and friends to go away beyond these savages, seemed an
undertaking too gigantic for any but men of desperate fortunes, or of
the most indomitable energy.
Adventurers had wandered into the country and returned with terrible
stories of the unhealthiness of the climate as well as the difficulties
to be overcome in reaching it; thus deterring the emigrant who desired
a new home. When General Jackson was elected to the Presidency a new
policy was inaugurated. The Indians were removed beyond the
Mississippi; the lands they had occupied were brought into market, and
a flood of emigration poured into these new acquisitions. Cotton had
suddenly grown into great demand. The increase of population, and the
great cheapness of the, fabrics from cotton, had increased the demand.
In Europe it had rapidly increased, and in truth all over the world.
Emigration from Europe had set in to a heavy extent upon the United
States, and the West was growing in population so rapidly as to create
there a heavy demand for these fabrics. The world was at peace;
commerce was unrestricted, and prosperity was everywhere. Europe had
recovered from her long war, and the arts of peace had taken hold of
every people, and were bearing their fruit. All the lands intermediate
between the frontiers west of Georgia and Tennessee and those of the
east of Mississippi and Louisiana were soon appropriated; and the more
fertile lands of the two latter States were coming rapidly into request
for the purpose of cotton cultivation.
The great flood of 1828 had swept over every cultivated field west of
the Mississippi, and seemed to demonstrate the folly of ever attempting
to reduce these lands to profitable cultivation. But with the increase
of population came wealth and enterprise. The levees were continued up
the river. A long period of comparatively low water encouraged
settlements upon the alluvial bottoms. The levees were continued up the
west bank, and in a few years the forests had melted away from the
margin of the river. Large fields were in their stead, and were
continually increasing in extent. Improvements of a superior character
were commencing, and an occasional break in the levee, and partial
inundation, did not deter, but rather stimulated the planters to
increased exertion, to discipline and control the great floods poured
down from the rain-sheds extending from the headwaters of the Ohio to
those of the Mississippi, Missouri, Arkansas, and Red Rivers, embracing
in extent an area greater than the continent of Europe. It really
seemed an attempt to defy the decrees of fate. In 1828, the waters from
Cairo to Baton Rouge, a distance of nine hundred miles, averaged fifty
miles in width. For months the great river was covered with forests of
timber, torn up with the roots by the flood, floating and tumbling
wildly along the terrible torrent, making the navigation extremely
dangerous for the few steamers then upon the river. How often have I
heard old men, who were long resident in the country, when standing on
the bluff at Natchez, viewing the extent of that memorable flood, say:
"Every man who attempts to cultivate these bottom lands will be ruined.
The river demands them as a reservoir for her surplus waters when in
flood." But enterprise was undeterred; the levees went up and the
settlements went on to increase; and when the spoiler came all the
valley was dotted over with pretty villages and magnificent cotton
plantations, containing and sustaining a prosperous, rich, intelligent,
and happy population. They are swept away, and ruin reigns over this
desolated land.
This was but the beginning of the subduing to man's will and
cultivation this entire and unparalleled valley. What had been done
demonstrated the possibility of redeeming every inch of the alluvial
land along the entire valley to the production of the richest staples,
with all the necessaries to man's support, comfort, and wealth. It is
pleasing to contemplate this immense plain as one extended scene of
cultivation--the beautiful lakes of every form, surrounded with
palatial homes and fertile fields; lovely towns upon their borders,
with the church-spires pointing to heaven, surrounded with shrubs and
flowers of every variety and hue; streams meandering among the extended
plantations; railroads intersecting it in every direction; and all this
mighty field, a thousand miles long by fifty broad, teeming with
production, and pouring into the lap of commerce a wealth absolutely
incalculable. The work was begun and was rapidly progressing; but now,
when and by whom will this great, glorious garden be made?
To do this was the black man's mission; but ere his work was done he
was converted into a machine to undo all his work. Inconceivable
calamity has followed, and to him is fixed a decade which will soon run
to extinction.