and to the following measure: Breast 37, waist 37, hip 38, length of
waist 18, length of coat 36, length of legs 30 inches.
Dia. IIa is a trifle wider at the shoulders than Dia. II, which is seen
by the 9⅜ at 60 deg., and by the width of the back at the armhole, which
is ¼ number more, and which requires the back sleeve seam ¼ shorter than
Dia. II. The neck is for a form with ½ in. more length than the normal
form, hence the top of back is placed at 2¾, and the spring between the
shoulder seam is ¾, which requires the collar to be sewed on loose over
the side of the neck. The armhole is in all respects the same, and the
neck is changed from the top of arm upward.
Dia. IIa shows a full waist which is shown by the ¼ gore in the underarm
gore at the waist, and in the larger width in the front of waist. The
roll is shorter than on Dia. II. It buttons three buttons but may easily
be made longer. The heighth of back above lines 9 and 13¹⁄₁₆ is only 14¾,
being ¼ shorter over the blade, because most all such forms are more or
less erect forms. In place of a lap of 1 in. in front the waist seam has
a gore of 1 in. behind, and the run of that seam may be made to suit
fancy or style. In cutting, the top of sidepiece should be run out into
the armhole until it is long enough for the back from the nicks upward,
as shown on Dia. IIB.
[Illustration: DIA. IIA.]