Breast, 52; waist, 60. Form, very erect; front of waist band forward and
abdomen very large and round. The shoulders are normal, and the shoulder
seam have the same spring as Dia. X. The model is Dia. X. The square is
19¼ numbers, and 1¼ numbers are cut out as a gore under the arm, and the
sidepiece stretched upward ¼. The large square and the large gore under
the arm, throw extra waist proportion into the center of the forepart.
Neck from 135 deg.—top of back 3⅜—side of back 3¾—at 60 deg. 3¼—base
3¼—armhole from 135 deg.: front sleeve nick at 10¾—at 60 deg. 8⅞—at 45
deg. or top square 9⅞—width of back at 8 is 6⅞—bottom of armhole is ¾
above line 11¼, and the front sleeve base is forward two seams. The front
of armhole is on 45 deg. Center of back: height of back above line 9
is 12½ numbers—from line 15 spring out 1¼ at 25. Center of front from
the plumb line base: top ¾—½ gore, ¾ to edge—at 11¼, 4¾—at 20, 6—at 30,
6—drop front of bottom 1, and set the buttons back from the edge about 2½
inches.
Now, while I am describing “_Odd Forms_,” which in reality are not odd at
all, only a trifle different from the so-called normal form, it may be
well, to point out another fact: For coats and vests all large-waisted
forms require either a proportionately smaller scale with extra allowance
in front of the breast, or if the measure and the scale are used the same
as on a small-waisted form, the square must be made smaller, and the
front must be that much larger.
It is the same on the full-breasted and on the erect forms, and the
description of Forms V and VI, as well as Dia. VIIIa, with their
different squares ought to be sufficient to give a general idea of what
is to be taken off behind in the square, and what is to be allowed in
front. Large-waisted persons have mostly erect forms even if they should
have prominent shoulder blades, or throw their necks down in front. At
the hollow of waist they may be considered erect and mostly throw their
arms backward, and all such forms require a smaller square and a larger
breast. The best way to measure is this: Take all measures even and
close, and reduce the square, and enlarge the breast according to the
above description, and according to your judgment, and remember, that
½ inch more, or ½ inch less in the breast, or in the square, may be
considered the outside limit, and that ¼ inch goes a good ways.
In regard to the amount, you better learn to depend upon your judgment,
for if that should be ever so poor, it will be better than a so-called
proof or balance measure, from the center of back forward. That measure,
even if taken with the utmost care, will mostly depend upon the coat
which the person wears, and not upon the body, which is to be fitted.
[Illustration]