This article includes all sizes, from the smallest child to the largest
man, and is to be applied on all forms whose whole waist measure is more
than one-ninth part less than breast. When a child is born its waist is
larger than its breast. The normal growth of the waist is a constant
reduction of its relative proportion to the breast, until we may find, at
the age of 20, a waist of about four inches less than breast. After that
age the waist has a tendency to become larger again, more or less, until
we again find some individuals with the same waist proportion as when
they were born.
Now, is not a child with its waist larger than its breast, of normal
proportion? Is not a man who measures 48 breast and 50 waist, of normal
proportion? The present conception of a normal form, as being four inches
less waist than breast, is wrong. This proportion is found in the medium
sizes, as 36 breast and 32 waist but it can be called a normal form
for that size only. We may find 44 breast and 40 waist, but they are
exceptions, though I have found one 43 breast and 37 waist. The child of
24 breast and 20 waist is not to be found; consequently the normality of
the proportion of four inches less waist than breast is a myth as far as
cutting garments is concerned, and cutters must make calculations for
each individual customer; or, as in cutting for ready made clothing, the
different sizes must be classified according to their normal conditions.
But taking 36 breast and 32 waist as normal for that size, we find also
that it means a waist which is one-ninth part less than the breast, and
if we make a diagram to fit that size and enlarge it to size 54, it will
fit a waist one-ninth less than that breast, or a waist of 48; but such
forms are not in existence as far as I know. If we diminish it to breast
size 27, it will fit a waist of 24, which may come pretty near to a great
many boys of that size; but the great majority of that size have fuller
waists, and the younger the child is the larger its waist proportion will
be found to be.
But before we proceed further, remember that in trying to fit coats in
the back according to the waist proportion, more garments are spoiled
than made better; for, in the first place, the smallness of the back part
of a coat does not depend on waist proportion at all, as shown elsewhere.
The hollow of the waist behind is not to be fitted at all, but passed
over; and its proportion is of no account until it is almost as large as
the breast. Breast 40 and waist 37 requires no addition to the waist.
Breast 42 and waist 45 (with seat 45) I find I can fit very well by
omitting the gore under the arm, and in place of the gore lapping the
side piece and front ¾ in. at the waist seam, and adding 1¼ in front,
which will allow 3 in. extra width for a waist that is 6 in. out of
proportion on the whole. And it is further accounted for as follows: The
1 in. omitted gore and the ¾ lap makes 1¾, and the 1¼ in front make 3 in.
in all, or only one-half of the actual measure, which may appear as too
small, but we must consider that the hollow of the waist for the normal
form is not to be fitted but passed over, and a larger waist will fill it
out better, that is all. To obtain a correct waist proportion on a coat
is quite a trick, and cannot be learned from the books; and a cutter must
consider each customer well. A correct waist measure may be taken over a
well fitting coat when buttoned up, and the coat made precisely like that
measure—all seams and lap for buttons and button holes to be taken into
consideration.
One thing should be observed: The front angle of 15 deg. is 5 numbers
wide at line 20, where the waist seam is located. But on a large form the
waist is higher up, say at line 18, and the width of the front angle (as
5 at 20) must be re-established at, say 18; that is, we must go outside
of the front line of 15 deg. The same thing ought to be done at the side,
and the lap of ¾ made at the waist seam and not at line 20. Line 17½ is
established for the hollow of the waist, and line 15 as the turning point
of the body in front. Line 20 as indicated is for the top of the hips,
and the waist seam for a frock coat regardless of style or fashion.
But on corpulent men, these lines stand too far down, and on slim persons
they are too far up; consequently, these lengths must be measured, and
as the waist seam runs at right angles with the back, as on a square of
17½, and as a point for line 20, take the outside of the elbow, and for
line 17½ take the inside of the elbow. The elbows are a sure guide, for
they always fit into the hollow of the waist, and no man can strike both
of his hip bones with both of his elbows at the same time. As a general
rule, I claim that the angle of 135 deg. will cover every form of large
waists, providing the sides and the shoulders fit. Every cutter can try
this by cutting the double angle of 135 deg., neck and all, and put it on
as a cape by closing it in front. To imitate the large waist simply lift
the front edge forward—and notice the result. Or it may also be tried on
a corpulent form, when it will be found that the angle of 135 deg. will
cover it. A piece of pattern paper will do for that purpose, or even a
piece of muslin. But coats are not made from sheet iron, and if otherwise
well balanced can stand a great deal of abuse at some places. Therefore,
no cutter will fail if he divides the extra waist proportion intended to
be allowed into three equal parts and place two parts at the side and one
part in front, starting all at the armscye lines.
On coats all allowances should be scant in front, because plenty
allowance there would throw too much skirt in front. A vest is cut off a
few inches below the turn of the body a trifle more will not show, and
may be balanced again by cutting a gore in the middle of the forepart
below the pockets, particularly if the abdomen turns very abruptly. A
vest is better ½ in. too large in the front of the waist than that much
too small.
On a frock coat, extra waist proportion can be given by dividing it all
over the front and side of the forepart; but on a three-seamed sack the
side seam is too far behind to be of much help. And it is best to enlarge
the square of 18 numbers to the amount of waist proportion required, and
reduce it again by a cut under the arm upward, as a five-seamed, for both
under and overcoats.
Breast 48 and waist 50 can be fitted by enlarging the square from 1 to
1¼ in.—1 in. often yields excellent results. But by enlarging the square
for any purpose, we ought to consider this: If we enlarge the square 1
in., point 13½, as on a sack, and on line 9 in front will sink down ¼ of
the 1 in., which will make the back that much shorter on line 11¼. This
is very little, but it ought to be known to the cutter that a short back
is always better for a large waisted form than a long back. (See Dia. X.)
Bear in mind that an under coat for a large waisted form is about the
same thing as an overcoat that fits the normal form.
There is always a class of men found who complain that they seldom have
a coat large enough in the armholes, unless the coat is too large all
over. Such persons are usually well filled up at the side of waist and
hips, and require their coats large there, and if this is not done, the
sewed up back cannot give, and consequently the coat must give in front,
and the whole of it is drawn backward, taking the armhole with it, and
striking the front of the arm, while the back of the armhole shows too
much cloth. A coat which swings loose at the back and around the side of
the waist will never cut the front of the arm; it may be small all around
the armhole, but it will only feel close and will not saw on one spot
only.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]