This diagram was made for the purpose of illustrating a pants with a high
waist, and how it is to be cut on top in order to have such a pants feel
good around the short ribs, and still fitting at the hollow of the waist.
The more spring such a pants has near the short ribs, the better it will
be. But the buckle straps must be set low, or at the hollow of the waist,
so they do not draw that width backward. For the sake of making a change,
I have thrown the top of front of the dress side out ¾ and the undress
side is to be ⅜.
[Illustration: DIA. XXI.]
DIA. XXII and XXIII.
Are the same thing. They are here reproduced to give a correct idea of
the so-called “back slope.” Both are turned from point 80, or from the
point of the angle of 7½ deg. All connections, or nicks for the seams
are on the sweeps from point 80. The leg seams are dislocated, but the
balance is the same, and both will fit the same when on the body, and
I claim that there never was a truer pants system produced than is
represented by these two diagrams.
The complete angles of the different degrees are not made, but the base
line, running down to 80, is on the same spot on all foreparts. From
point 80 the forepart of Dia. XXII is thrown forward, and in Dia. XXIII
it is thrown sidewise, all of which may be imitated on a pants leg, after
it is sewed up. Now it will be noticed that each of the two diagrams
has a double side, on which it makes no difference where the nicks are
located, as long as they are on top of each other, but the disconnected
sides must be nicked by the sweeps from point 80.
Five years ago I sent the principle of Dia. XXII and XXIII to the
publisher of the “AMERICAN TAILOR,” and the answer may be found in the
“AMERICAN TAILOR” of November, 1886, page 98. But as other questions were
involved in the same article, and as the “AMERICAN TAILOR” pleased to
notice me in 1883 about a certain challenge, I will reproduce the whole
of it.
[Illustration: _Dia. XXII._]
[Illustration: _Dia. XXIII._]
[Illustration: PATRIARCH MILITANT.]
[Illustration: CLERGYMAN’S COAT.]
In 1882 I had the following advertisement in the Tiffin papers, of which
I sent a copy to the “AMERICAN TAILOR”: