Dia. X is a five-seamer overcoat for the normal, but leaning toward the
erect form. The armhole is cut full forward to 45 deg., and the sleeve
base moved forward two seams, or ⅜ inches. The sleeve part of this
diagram makes a close sleeve head, and a lap at 60 deg. may be made ¼
to ½ more, and at 45 deg. it may be made ¼ more or any amount required
to make a nice curve. The bottom of the armhole is plenty low, and the
gusset on the top of the under sleeve fits it. The width of the shoulders
may be made 9 at 60 deg. A half-inch lap between the armhole and sleeve
at the back sleeve center, or at line 8, will make the whole sleeve extra
easy, though the back sleeve may hang a trifle loose when the arm hangs
down, but this ½ inch extra length must not be accounted for in the
sleeve-length.
The square of the coat is 18¾ only, which is ½ less than the regular
calculation would bring it. An overcoat must be close-fitting, at and
around the arm, though the armhole must be plenty large. Dia. X was made
over a 39 pattern and if that same draft is measured and laid out with a
scale of 38, the square will be 19¼, which 19¼ numbers correspond to the
square of 18 on a three-seamer, taking in consideration the gore and the
seams under the arm on a five-seamer. To cut over Dia. X the measure must
be taken close over the undercoat, and the measure over the vest will
make the fit not too close.
[Illustration: _Dia. X._]
DIA. Xa.
Is a three-seamed overcoat, and must be reproduced and made as fine work
requires it, and the person who wears it must be well built, and with a
rather small waist and seat. All clothing worn under the overcoat should
be neat and well fitting. Erect persons should have the height of back at
13. The sleeve shown in Dia. X corresponds to Dia. Xa. The collar must be
sewed on easy, on and along the sides. The whole front edge may be made
½ inch smaller than Dia. X.
[Illustration: _Dia. Xa._]