Is a sack with three seams and with a straight front. As long as a cutter
is able to cut a straight front, he will have little trouble to cut any
shape of a cutaway for either sack or frock. As shown in the diagram,
the height of the back above line 9 over the front is placed at 13½, the
same as in Dia. III. This height of back will make the back plenty short
for the normal form, and it may be called rather short, but any coat back
is better ¼ inch too short than ¼ inch too long, for if short, it can
easily be stretched at the center and over the shoulder blade, and such
stretching, if done properly, will improve all such sack coats, because
the center of the back as far over to the shoulder blade of any person
are always longer than the sides.
On a frock coat, the shortness at the sides is reduced by a small gore
between the top of sidepiece and the back, because of the curved seam,
but on the more straight sack seam, said reduction can not so well be
made, except by cutting the back shorter, and stretching it again behind,
at, and as far over as the shoulder blade.
For a double-breasted front, add 1 inch to the front of Dia. VIII—cut a
gore under the lapel, and add to the top and front of the lapel, whatever
that gore takes up. Set the buttons back accordingly.
Dia. VIII is made for the same form as is Dia. II, that is for a
slender form and small waist, and if the waist is to be more full, or
the armholes are to be quite loose for working coats, reduce the gore
between the fore part and back one half inch clear down, starting at line
11¼. The armhole is represented close-fitting, requiring it to be well
stretched, but it may be cut forward to the base and in every respect
made like Dia. II. The same may be done to Dia. VIIIa.
[Illustration: _Dia. VIII._]
DIA. VIIIa.
This diagram is made especially for the erect form, but may be used for
the normal form by placing the depth of back at 12¾ above line 9. As the
diagram is, it simply gives the result of the closing of the ⅝ fold, as
shown across the waist in Dia. VIII. Erect forms usually require small
coats in the back, and in the armhole, and for this reason, such forms
should be cut one size smaller than the measure, and ½ inch should be
allowed in front, to balance the size.
The front is given with a pretty large roll and the upper part may be
used for a double-breasted sack, while meeting the front edge and the
front angle in front of line 15 and by going forward 4 numbers at line
30. The gore between the back and sidepiece may be reduced to 2 at line
20 and to 1½ at line 30. The height of the back, above line 9 is 1¼
number shorter than on Dia. VIII, and which is accounted for as follows:
The fold across the waist which is obtained from above is ⅝, and the
side of the sidepiece is stretched upward ⅝ on the forepart, all of
which requires the back to be 1¼ shorter above line 9. If the sidepiece
is stretched less, the back must be so much longer, and for a good many
forms ⅜ stretch may be plenty, in which case the height of back is to be
12½.
[Illustration: _Dia. VIIIa._]