Dia. IV represents a vest, and is quite plain. It is on a square of 20,
and in the same position as shown in Dia. I, front and back bases running
parallel. From the front of the waist, or at the pit of the stomach, or
where the body turns, the square of 20 is reduced to conform to the bend
of the body, and from the back of the waist, or where the body turns, the
back receiving what the front has lost.
Under the arm the normal form requires a reduction at the waist of about
1 in., and another in the middle of the back, as shown in Dia. I, between
the sidepiece and back, but which may partly be taken off at the side
seam and partly buckled up. A vest without buckle-straps should be cut
with a gore in the back of say ½ inch, and as shown by dots in Dia. IV
and XIII. All vests should be cut as though there were to be no turn-down
collar, and if such a collar is to be added, a simple piece of the shape
of the whole neck is attached, in which shape the front may be curved at
pleasure.
The side of the neck as 4, is for a vest without a turn-down collar, and
is calculated to lose one seam for the turn-in; and if the vest be bound
this point ought to be 4¼, and if a turn-down collar is put on, said
point should be fully 4¼, because nothing is lost by a seam, but instead
there is an actual gain by the top-collar covering the seam, and for the
purpose of illustrating Dia. V, VI, IX, Dia. IV has the shoulder seam cut
on a straight line, and without lap or gore, and if cut just like it, the
side of the neck must be stretched say about ¼ to ⅜ inches on each side,
and close to the shoulder seam. If, however, the vestmaker can not be
trusted to do the stretching right, it is better to allow about ¼ spring
at the neck, starting at, or about the middle of the shoulder seam, or to
cut the vest as directed at the end of the article on vests. In no case
must the back be held full on the collar.
When finishing the neck, the side of the back is to be turned in, or cut
off, whatever surplus length may be there, but the center of the back is
turned in just one seam. Notch the shoulder seam as shown and baste up
and down.
[Illustration: _Dia. IIII._]