This is a plain double-breasted frock; and the diagram is plain and
requires little extra description, except the front of the waist and
lapel. The fore-part has no gore at the waist, and the reduction is made
in front. It will be seen that the double-breasted front of Dia. II is
only about 1 inch wider than the single-breasted front of Dia. I, and
that the gore in Dia. I is balanced in Dia. II by the large gore between
the lapel and fore-part upward, and if it is desired to cut a small gore
at the waist, then all what that gore takes up must be allowed in front.
The lapel in Dia. II will roll anywhere down to the second or third
button, but if a gore is cut at the waist the roll will go down to the
waist seam; and if the collar is pretty well rounded in front the lapel
may be run down to the bottom. All frock coats have the center of the
back pretty well thrown out at the bottom of the skirt, and this extra
width is again reduced between the back and front skirt, which operation
allows that seam to be oval-shaped in order to fit over the seat. The
frock coat, being open behind, must receive its oval form over the seat
in the seam between the back and front skirt, because that seam is sewed
together and will hold its shape, whereas if the roundness were placed in
the center behind it would simply produce a curved edge, but not an oval
shape for the seat. The lap between the forepart and the skirt represents
the extra length over the oval chest, and for a full chest, and if the
chest is not very full, the lap of 1 number may be reduced to ½ at the
front edge, but must remain 1 number at the plumb line base.
Dia. II is intended for the normal form, and for the following measure;
Breast, 35; waist, 32; hip, 34; seat, 36; length of legs, 32 to 33;
form straight without being over-erect. The back and the sidepiece is
intended for a close fit, or as fine work ought to fit. If a looser fit
is required, the gores between the back and the sidepiece and between
the fore-part and the sidepiece should be made a trifle smaller from
the hollow of the armhole downward, which will give greater ease to the
armhole and is better than to cut the armhole more forward. If a waist is
prominent, say nearly as large as the breast, the underarm gore may be
made as small as ⅛ to ¼ at line 17½ and run out to nothing at line 20;
while a very large waist may require a lap of 1 inch, at the waist seam,
starting said extra width at the bottom of the armhole.
This diagram shows the sleeve and the armhole different than Dia. VII.
The armhole is cut out to the front sleeve base line and the sleeve and
the armhole laps 2½ at 60 deg., all of which gives both armhole and
sleeve a trifle larger and that armhole requires not so much stretching
as that of Dia. VII. The top sleeve and armhole nicks are connected by
a right angle from the center of back through the angle of 60 deg., and
they will fit pretty close together, and in fact may be taken together on
all sleeves and armholes, basting forward and backward to meet the other
nicks.
NOTE: Elsewhere it is stated, that Dia. II must be considered the parent
pattern of all others, which is quite true, though the armhole of Dia. II
is larger than the others.
FURTHER: In cutting the gore between the back and sidepiece, point 5 must
be quite slightly touched by both, and it may be better to have ⅛ gore
there on all coats except for the stooping form. See Dia. II B.
[Illustration: DIA. II.]