The squares of 17½ and 20, and lines 9 and 11¼, are both permanent
bases. But the lines which connect the back to the foreparts, or to the
side piece, or join lines 9 and 11¼ over the front, require especial
explanation. Line 9 on the front base of the angle of 135 deg., and line
11¼ on the front plumbline, meet in the center of the square of 20 and
in the position as indicated on Dia. II. Line 9 is broken between the
side-piece and back, and turned 15 deg. upward, but will be of the same
space as the square of 20 when the side-piece and back is connected. The
square of 17½ is one-eighth less than the square of 20, and harmonizes
with the division of the circle, as shown on Dia. XII.
In both Dia. XI and XII, the circle has a full diameter of 40 numbers,
and the triangle as shown in Dia. XII, has 35 numbers on each line,
making an equi-lateral triangle. One-half of the circle is used as a
square of 20, as in Dia. XI. One-half of the triangle is used as a square
of 17½ as in Dia. XII. The square of 20 represents the amount used for
the whole half vest, seam and surplus included, and the square of 17½
represents the half breast measure. The correct combination of the square
of 20 and 17½, can only be used on a vest with one seam in the center of
the back, and one seam under the arm. On coats the square is enlarged
on account of more seams and other reasons elsewhere explained; but for
all that, the squares of 20 and 17½ are a true guide for all coats. It
will be seen that the squares of 20 and 17½, as used in this book, are
not imaginary lines, but based upon a scientific calculation from the
center of a circle or the corner of a square, which are used by the whole
civilized world as points, or fixed facts.
By further examination of Dia. XI and XII, it will be found that all
the essential points necessary in cutting a vest can be found within a
circle, and without using a scale—all of which is further explained in
the article entitled, “Scientific Calculation.” Another reason why lines
9 and 11¼ on the front bases are adopted, is the following: Lines 9 and
11¼ meet in the center of the square of 20. Line 9 runs at right angles
with the center of the front. Line 14 on the back runs at right angles
with the center of back. When the garment is upon the body, both run in
the same direction, are in their natural positions, and on a square of 20.
For the reason that the vest is cut off below the waist, it can be cut on
the square of 20 without piecing the pattern. But on a coat this cannot
be done without piecing the pattern, and in order to obtain a draft or
a pattern, without lap or piecing, the square of 20 is transformed into
an angle of 15 deg., which contains the square of 17½ as for a vest,
to which is added one-half for one extra seam, and which one-half more
causes the squares of a frock coat to be 18 and 20½. And for reasons
explained further on in this article, and in Dia. III, a three-seamed
sack must have the same squares as that of a frock coat of five seams.
The following points must be well observed: Dia. II has a square of
18, or half an inch extra on the plumb line base, which half an inch
is allowed for one extra seam. The square of 17½ would answer the same
purpose if each side piece and each forepart was allowed one extra seam;
but this would cause the pattern to be pieced, or allowance would have
to be made for one seam, which will always be found troublesome, and for
this reason the square is enlarged to 18. But, to be more definite, the
square should be 17½ and half an inch for all sizes, because if ½ an inch
is allowed for a seam, this seam requires the same for all sizes. Perhaps
⅜ inch will do the same, or maybe better for a snug fit, particularly
for fine work, where ⅜ of an inch is amply sufficient for a seam; but
I call it ½ an inch for the reason that ¼ of an inch more or less in
an entire coat is nothing, particularly when we must admit that no two
cutters will take the same measure, and that very few cutters are able to
take the same breast measure twice with the same result, if done so in
using a blank tape.
Though the square of 18 will result in a square of 20½, we find that if
we observe Dia. II correctly, the back square, which ends at point 15, on
the center of back, sinks below line 11¼ in front, and becomes larger and
consequently a reduction is made at that line between the back and side
piece, in order to re-establish the square of 20. Again, if we observe
Dia. III, or the combination of frock and sack (and the vest as well,)
we find that by turning the sidepiece forward at the waist it will turn
backward about ½ inch at the shoulder blade, and although the top of
the sidepiece and back lap ½, the square remains 18 for a three-seamed
sack coat, the same as for a frock. The fact that I did not observe this
simple point at the beginning, but made the square of a three-seamed sack
½ less than a frock coat, caused me to devote years in making alterations.
Dia. III is the best combination of frock, sack and vest, which I have
been able to secure in 10 years of diligent study. Though the vest is not
shown on it, because too many lines spoil the illustration, but anybody
may observe the sameness in Dia. XII. Now, supposing the vest to be put
in Dia. III, we simply reduce its square ½ under the arm to make it 17½
and place the height of back at 14. The combination places the different
backs at the following height above line 9. Frocks at 14¼, vests at 14,
and sacks at 13½. The squares of 18 and 20½ are, of course, for a coat,
but this does not destroy the principle of cutting a vest over the same
pattern, simply reducing it ½ inch in width under the arm, and cutting
the top of the back ½ lower, or 3¾, as shown in the Vest Dia.
Neither the square of 20 nor the square of 17½, nor the angle of 15 deg.,
nor any other angle or square, will fit the body precisely, either of
which must be adjusted to the requirements of the form; but when we know
what a certain square or angle represents, and how they harmonize with
the slopes of the body, we can very easily deduct or add to, as the case
may require.
Now, although certain garments require more or less in the square, I
will, in comparing, always mention the squares of 17½ and 20 as on a
vest, for the reason that line 11¼ meets line 9 at its center—that is, at
the center of the square of 20—from which point all calculations are made
for turning or changing the lines over the back. The square of 17½, with
the angle of 15 deg. attached in front, produces both squares 17½ and 20
on this particular spot, though the square of 20 is broken on line 9; and
within the squares of 17½ and 20 all calculations are made in the article
on “Narrow and Broad Backs.” By the terms: square of 17½, or 18, or 20,
etc., I mean to say that the distance from the centre of the back to a
certain base in front is such a distance. It may be that if I should say:
a right angle, so and so far from back to front, would be better grammar,
but I think, a square of so and so much will be fully as well, and may be
better understood by the majority of cutters and tailors.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]