If Pants are cut from striped goods, the stripe should run parallel
with the center line of the angle of 10 deg., both in front and back,
though on the forepart it may be located an inch sidewise on the top of
the waist; but the back part must have its stripe on that line. This is
important to bear in mind, particularly on large pants, which are to be
seen often with the stripe running inward or outward. On plain goods it
makes no difference where the seams are cut, but on striped goods the
forepart should be cut narrow at the side of the thigh, and broad at the
side of the bottom in order to run the stripe parallel with the side seam.
It is quite an accomplishment to be able to determine the location of
the seams on all kinds of pants without causing them to lose their
balance. The top of the front may be cut ¼ full waist for the middle
sizes, but the smaller sizes must be cut large enough to make room for
the button-hole fly and the pockets. On large-waisted pants, it may
save a good deal of piecing to cut the top of the forepart broad, and
even as wide as the angle of 7½ deg., and then cut the pockets forward
independent of the side seam; but if the material is striped, the stripe
will be too crooked over the center of the front. On the front, the
stripe may run 1 in. to the side of the top of the center-line on all
pants, but on large waists, it may run 2 in. sidewise on top. On the back
the stripe must run with the center line.
On a vest the stripes should run at right angles with the pockets, and
nearly parallel with the front edge. On all cut-a-way coats, run the
stripe with the front plumb line. On the back, run it with the edge of
the back tack, and with the edge of the side of the back skirt as well as
with the edge of the front skirt, so that the stripes fit to the pleat;
but on straight coats, the stripes should run parallel with the front
edge, even if the back edge is a trifle bias.
On the side-piece, the stripe should run nearly with the back when they
are sewed together, and at the same time the stripe of the side-piece
and skirt below should run nearly in the same direction, or as near as
possible. On the sleeve, the stripe should run with the front sleeve base.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]