MARSEILLES.
Old Massilia wears her years well. To look at her now as she appears,
full of life and joy and gayety, no one would imagine that thirty
centuries or more had passed over her head.
Here is the first glimpse of the glorious South, with all its sunshine
and luxury and voluptuous beauty. Here the Mediterranean rolls its
waters of deepest blue, through the clear air the landscape appears
with astonishing distinctness, and the sharply-defined lines of
distinct objects surprise the Northern eye. Marseilles is always a
picturesque city. No commercial town in the world can compare with it
in this respect. On the water float the Mediterranean craft, rakish
boats, with enormous latteen sails; long, low, sharp, black vessels,
with a suspicious air redolent of smuggling and piracy. No tides
rise and fall--advance and retreat. The waters are always the same.
All the Mediterranean nations are represented in Marseilles.
Three-quarters of the world send their people here. Europe, Asia,
Africa. In the streets the Syrian jostles the Spaniard; the Italian
the Arab; the Moor jokes with the Jew; the Greek chaffers with the
Algerine; the Turk scowls at the Corsican; the Russian from Odessa
pokes the Maltese in the ribs. There is no want of variety here.
Human nature is seen under a thousand aspects. Marseilles is the most
cosmopolitan of cities, and represents not only many races but many
ages.
Moreover it is a fast city. New York is not more ambitions; Chicago
not more aspiring; San Francisco not more confident in its future.
Amazing sight! Here is a city which, at the end of three thousand
years, looks forward to a longer and grander life in the future.
And why?
Why, because she expects yet to be the arbiter of Eastern commerce.
Through her the gold, the spices, and the gems of India will yet be
conveyed over the European world. For the Suez Canal, which will once
more turn the tide of this mighty traffic through its ancient
Mediterranean channel, will raise Marseilles to the foremost rank
among cities.
So, at least, the Marseillaise believe. When our travellers arrived
there the city was crammed with soldiers. The harbor was packed with
steamships. Guns were thundering, bands playing, fifes screaming,
muskets rattling, regiments tramping, cavalry galloping. Confusion
reigned supreme. Every thing was out of order. No one spoke or thought
of any thing but the coming war in Lombardy.
Excitable little red-legged French soldiers danced about everywhere.
Every one was beside himself. None could use the plain language of
every-day life. All were intoxicated with hope and enthusiasm.
The travellers admired immensely the exciting scene, but their
admiration was changed to disgust when they found that on account
of the rush of soldiers to Italy their own prospects of getting there
were extremely slight.
At length they found that a steamer was going. It was a propeller.
Its name was the _Prince_. The enterprising company that owned her
had patriotically chartered every boat on their line to the
Government at an enormous profit, and had placed the _Prince_ on the
line for the use of travellers.
[Illustration: Those Italians.]