THE SALMON FISHING INDUSTRY.]
Cultivated lands are seen on either side as the river is ascended, until
the mountainous region is reached and the roar of the cascades is
distinctly heard. These cascades, according to Indian lore, were created
by the falling of the "Bridge of the Gods," which once extended from
shore to shore and formed the great highway connecting the mountains on
the north and their extension to the south, while beneath a mighty river
peacefully pursued its course to the sea. The perpendicular buttresses
on either hand, the forest areas that apparently fell from above, trees
growing out of the water, petrified logs up in the reddish cliffs within
the vicinity of Stevenson, and many other freaks of nature all seem to
strengthen the evidence on which this story is based.
Throughout the mountainous region are wonderful examples of Nature's
diverse skill. Among the most striking are Castle Rock, or
Wehatpolitan's gravestone, a great basaltic rock 900 feet high; St.
Peter's Dome, a sublime elevation of 2,000 feet, considered one of the
wonders of the American continent; Oneonta Gorge, almost concealed
behind towering rocks; Multnomah Falls, a matchless waterfall with a
sheer drop of 800 feet; Cape Horn, a long palisade of basalt; Rooster
Rock, unsurpassed for beauty of form and variety of color; and Cape
Eternity, a massive precipice 1,000 feet in height.
Thorough appreciation of the surrounding charms necessitates climbing
some of the neighboring hills, or traveling over the wooded river banks
and visiting the rustic towns that lie at the foot of the mountains and
guard the gateway to the alluring valleys. Near Stevenson, county seat
of Skamania county, overlooking the cascade locks, and Carson, are
several hot springs where accommodations for the most particular are
available. From these towns one may follow the Wind River Valley to its
source beyond the headquarters of the rangers where the U. S. forest
nurseries are maintained. A few miles further are the Government Hot
Springs, near which many low peaks, easy for climbing, offer expansive
views of the surrounding country.
[Illustration: THE SNAKE RIVER COUNTRY AROUND CLARKSTON.
Photo by Asahel Curtis.]
A twenty-five mile drive up the famous White Salmon Valley takes one to
Trout Lake, not far from the ice and lava caves in the foothills of
Mount Adams, and near Huckleberry Mountain, a pow-wow place for the
Indians. On the way, hundreds of scientifically developed orchards, and
oat fields yielding over 100 bushels to the acre, are passed; also the
Northwest Electric Company's power plant, which, generating 20,000 horse
power, supplies power to cities seventy-five miles away. From the
massive bluffs of White Salmon a panorama of perfectly blending color
may be seen, formed by the unusual combination of the Columbia River and
the mountains to the east and the west, while the entire Hood River
Valley, with Mount Hood beyond, is visible on the Oregon side.
The trip from Lyle to Goldendale along the Klickitat River is a journey
of surprises. The railroad follows the winding canyon past pretty
waterfalls, crosses hurrying brooks, and emerges finally into a wide,
fertile plain overlooking the Columbia basin. Fields of waving grain and
other products exhibit the richness of the Klickitat valley. Those
desiring can motor from Goldendale into the Yakima valley or return to
the Columbia via Maryhill, where Hon. Samuel Hill has built a $100,000
road across his 6,000-acre farm.
Nor do all the wonders belong to the lower Columbia. Before being joined
by the Snake River, it has drained a region noted for agricultural
superiority and contributed liberally to the needs of irrigation. The
"Big Bend" on the left, and the valleys watered by its tributaries from
the right, are described under the chapter entitled "The Inland Empire."
Following its channel still farther towards the source, wilder scenes
are met with, the gorges are deeper, the cascades noisier, native trees
more plentiful, waterfalls higher, and the course of the stream more
winding. Startling phenomena appear in rapid succession, and scenes
unimagined will astonish the tourist who spends a little time in
re-exploring this great river, for ages a prize eagerly sought by the
searchers for the unknown.
[Illustration: ROCK LAKE, 25 MILES SOUTHWEST OF SPOKANE.
Photo by Curtis & Miller.]
[Illustration: THE INLAND EMPIRE
"See Pan with flocks with fruits Pomona crowned:
Here blushing flora paints the enameled ground;
Here Ceres' gifts in waving prospect stand,
And nodding, tempt the joyful reapers hand."]
Thousands of years ago, scientists tell us, there existed between the
Rocky Mountains and the Cascade range a vast inland sea--the waters left
imprisoned when the ocean had receded. After many ages these pent up
waters burst the restraining barriers and forced their way to the ocean,
creating the deep canyon of the Columbia, but leaving behind a broad
plain, now known as the Inland Empire.
What was once a desolate waste, however, has been transformed into a
"Land of Canaan." Its plateaus unite to form one of the bountiful "bread
baskets of the world" while its valleys yield generously of nearly all
the products of husbandry. Near its borders the mountains, with their
retinue of trees, flowers and grassy meadows, reach as far as the
invisible power permits and then dispatch their emissaries, the rivers,
to wind through and through and distribute the welcome waters that
enkindle the irrigated districts with life and activity.
Far beyond the boundaries of our own state spreads this wonderful plain,
but the brief description contemplated in these few pages must be
confined chiefly to Washington. The curious sight-seer or the serious
homeseeker can well afford to spend many days exploring this region,
marveling at both the mighty forces of creation and the embellishments
of man. Under far more pleasant circumstances can it be traversed now
than when the early pioneers first fought their way over the mountains.
Lewis and Clarke, the Hudson's Bay Company men, and Marcus Whitman,
supplemented their sturdy limbs and indomitable courage with the trusty
saddle horse, the slow prairie schooner or the rude river raft. Today
the palatial cars of four transcontinental lines make daily trips
across the state; branch lines accommodate the territory north and
south; and parts not reached by rail are served by well constructed
thorofares.
CHIEF FEATURES.
In addition to the Columbia river basin, the most important features are
the Yakima and Wenatchee valleys; the Lake Chelan region; the Okanogan
Highlands with the valleys of the Methow, Okanogan, San Poil, Colville
and Pend Oreille; the Spokane Country; the Walla Walla valley; the Snake
River; the Big Bend and Palouse wheat sections with their "coulees"; and
the Blue Mountains. There are also a few low bare ridges of a
semi-mountainous character which relieve the prairie effect and permit
cycloramic views of the surrounding territory. Among these are the
Saddle Mountains, the Simcoe Hills, and the Horse Heaven Plateau; while
a number of spurs from the Cascades, including the Wenatchee Mountains,
help form the fertile valleys to the west of the plain.
HOW TO REACH THEM.
These different sections may be easily reached from almost any city in
the state. Visitors coming by way of Spokane can make a quick yet
comprehensive survey of eastern Washington in two ways. After seeing the
immediate Spokane vicinity and visiting the Pend Oreille Valley to the
north, either automobiles or Great Northern trains will convey them up
the Colville Valley to the junction of the Kettle and Columbia rivers,
whence the trip may be continued to Republic by train, and down the San
Poil by auto. At Republic trains connect for Oroville, whence the
journey may be continued to Wenatchee down the Okanogan Valley, both by
auto and rail. Side trips may be taken up the Methow Valley and the Lake
Chelan canyon, as well as to numerous other places of interest. From
Wenatchee the Great Northern railway or the Sunset Highway insures an
interesting ride back to Spokane through the wheat fields of the Big
Bend. The southern half of the region will be seen by making a tour
through the Palouse to the Snake River and Walla Walla country.
Transportation leads from there direct to the Columbia River, and the
Yakima and Kittitas valleys. The Horse Heaven may be reached from
Kennewick and Pasco, or from Prosser.
[Illustration: _Copyright by Asahel Curtis_
SUNNYSIDE CANAL--MOUNT ADAMS IN DISTANCE
"_And the old wilderness is changed
To cultured vale and hill_"]
The other plan reverses the order. After visiting the Palouse, Snake
River, Walla Walla, Yakima, and Kittitas valleys, from Ellensburg a
scenic overland route may be taken direct for Wenatchee, whence a loop
may be made to include Lake Chelan and the Okanogan Highlands, the Big
Bend and the Spokane Country.
THE YAKIMA VALLEY.
Broadly speaking, the Yakima Valley includes all the rich territory
tributary to the Yakima River, reaching from Lakes Keechelus and
Kachees, its sources in the Cascades, to the Columbia--a total distance
of nearly 175 miles with a range of altitude, at the water's edge,
varying from 2,250 down to 340 feet. It embraces, besides the Yakima
Valley proper, the Kittitas and a number of minor valleys, including the
Naches, the Ahtanum, the Cowiche, the Selah, the Wenas, the Satus and
the Toppenish. These last two belong to the rich country just south of
"Union Gap," where Sunnyside and Toppenish are located, two enterprising
cities, vieing for supremacy over the rich south half of Yakima county.
Further south is Prosser, county seat of Benton county. Above the Gap is
North Yakima with a population of 18,000, the metropolis of the region
and home of the State Fair; while Ellensburg, with 6,500 people, is
Queen of the Kittitas Valley. The south half of Yakima county
constitutes the Indian Reservation where the Yakima Tribes dwell
peaceably by the side of the whites, tilling the soil and occasionally
entertaining the people with many a "Round Up," or Wild West Show. At
Fort Simcoe is their school, deserving of a visit from anyone
interested.
[Illustration: THE YAKIMA VALLEY--MOUNT ADAMS IN THE DISTANCE.
Photo by Curtis & Miller.]
In this valley, where once was nothing but sage brush and bunch grass,
is irrigable land enough to support a population of a million people;
for the total water capacity as surveyed by the United States Government
is estimated at 927,000 acre feet, sufficient to water 600,000 acres.
Less than a third of this is at present cultivated and watered from
small canals, built by private capital, and from the two largest ones in
the state, constructed by the U. S. Reclamation Service. These latter
are the Tieton, with water sufficient for 34,500 acres, and the
Sunnyside, capable of irrigating 100,000 acres.
A journey along the banks of these canals or the Yakima river unfolds a
panorama of unusual breadth and interest. Instead of the heavy forests
of the west side, the sage brush struggles for existence just above the
main ditches; but the country below is checkered with orchards, farms,
and gardens; and cotton woods protect the banks of the streams.
Impressive is the sight in springtime when fruit trees are all in bloom
and the Blossom Festival, participated in by a hundred-thousand people,
is ushering in the full tide of spring; or in autumn when deeper touches
of color mark an immense crop ready for the harvester.
[Illustration: A HOME NEAR ELLENSBURG.]
From the hills on either side, the picture assumes its most perfect
form. Cities, meadows, orchards, vineyards, hop fields, vegetable
gardens, alfalfa farms, corn fields, and prairies, bisected and
crisscrossed by railroads, highways, canals, and rivers, protected by
the brown hills near by and watched over by the mountains in the
distance, supply composition for pictures that in detail and variety
must discourage all competition.
THE WENATCHEE VALLEY.
Equally beautiful but of smaller dimensions is the Wenatchee Valley,
reaching from the Columbia well up into the foot hills of the Cascades.
This, too, was a desolate brown slope until the effects of irrigation
were felt on its rich volcanic ash soil. After that only ten years were
necessary to convert it into a garden of dazzling splendor. Instead of
the forlorn looking sagebrush, a maze of orchards, extending up the
valley and ascending the hills, presents in springtime a solid mass of
blossoms, varying from purest white to daintiest shades of pink.
Serpentining along the hill sides, as if protecting the gardens below,
are the great viaducts, conducting the precious waters that irrigate the
land; while dodging from one side of the vale to the other, or
paralleling the Great Northern Railroad, the Wenatchee river hastens
onward towards the Columbia.
The north, south, and west are guarded by forest-covered hills, spurs of
the Cascades, over which many trails lead to charming mountain lakes and
streams, where summer homes are maintained, and game awaits the hunter.
The east opens up toward the wheat fields of the Big Bend, while the
Columbia River Valley to the north and south is tributary and joins in
all the enterprises of the district. Every tiny tributary stream in the
vicinity marks the location of a peaceful home supported in affluence by
successful fruit culture or gardening.
Within this valley are several prosperous cities, including Wenatchee,
the metropolis of north central Washington, with a population of about
5,000, at the junction of the Wenatchee and Columbia rivers; Leavenworth
near the head of the valley; and Cashmere, midway between the two. The
pervading spirit is one of optimism and liberality, for the Wenatchee
red apple is famous the world o'er and nets its producers $5,000,000
annually.
LAKE CHELAN.
Chelan, "Beautiful Water," is the name of one of the grandest sheets of
fresh water reposing upon the bosom of the American continent. It is one
of a number of beautiful lakes found throughout the highlands in the
vicinity of the upper Columbia, but on account of its thrilling beauty
and easy approach has become one of the favorite resorts for the entire
northwest.
It is reached usually via the city of Wenatchee, but sometimes from the
Columbia and Okanogan valleys on the north. River boats, automobile
stages, or Great Northern trains allow three principal modes of
transportation, each of which reveals different scenes of interest.
During summer months the overland trip is undoubtedly the most pleasant
and presents the fullest opportunity for appreciating the scenery. The
return might be by river boat or train, necessitating a ride down the
Chelan gorge, where the river drops 400 feet in its brief course of four
miles, and furnishes at low water 125,000 horsepower.
[Illustration: THE WENATCHEE VALLEY--NEAR THE CITY OF WENATCHEE.
Photo by Curtis & Miller.]
Surpassing the canyons of the Yosemite, the Yellowstone, the Columbia,
and the Colorado, the total depth of the Chelan canyon reaches in places
nearly 8,000 feet, while its waters occasionally cover a bottom 1,700
feet below the surface. Throughout the 55 mile ride from Chelan to
Stehekin, views are observed that for immensity, sublimity and color
blending are unexcelled. Right into the heart of the Cascades the
traveler is drawn, while the solemnity and general impressiveness of the
whole increases, as he is gradually brought in closer intimacy with
divine nature. Among features of striking scenic importance are Railroad
Creek, descending 6,000 feet in 20 miles, the Stehekin River, and
Rainbow Falls.
THE OKANOGAN HIGHLANDS.
This region consists of low picturesque mountains, alternating with
fertile valleys and studded with lakes protected by open forests of
spruce, pine, and tamarac. Opportunities for the homeseeker, pleasure
for the sportsman, and continuous scenes of interest for the tourist are
suggested. Here one can yet feel the presence of the true western spirit
of frontiership, for this part of the state was the last to be thrown
open to settlers; and the Indians are still in full possession of the
Colville Indian reservation, comprising some 1,300,000 acres in the
south central part of the section, extending from the Okanogan river to
the eastern boundary of Ferry county. Under irrigation the valleys yield
liberally of fruits, vegetables and dairy products, and the higher lands
are devoted to grain and stock raising. Lumbering plays its part and
mining for precious metals assumes greater importance than elsewhere in
the state.
[Illustration: SIMILKAMEEN RIVER NEAR OROVILLE
FARM SCENE IN THE METHOW
PATTERSON LAKE
METHOW VALLEY
FORT OKANOGAN--FIRST WHITE SETTLEMENT IN WASHINGTON
ORCHARDS IN THE OKANOGAN VALLEY
THE OKANOGAN AND METHOW VALLEYS.]
The valleys of the Pend Oreille, the Colville, the Kettle, and the
Okanogan rivers, are now served by rail; but the San Poil and the Methow
are dependent on highway conveyances. Of extreme interest is the ride
from Spokane up the Colville and Kettle River valleys to Oroville, with
a short side trip to Republic, the leading gold producing city in the
state. The railroad crosses the boundary line several times, enforcing
the unique experience of being at one moment under the dominion of King
George of England and the next back under the Stars and Stripes.
Cultivated valleys, broad wheat fields, and picturesque canyons are
invaded before arriving at the heights from which Oroville appears far
below--requiring an hour for the train to descend by a series of
remarkable switchbacks.
[Illustration: COLVILLE VALLEY, SIX MILES NORTHWEST OF COLVILLE.]
Most of the towns in the Okanogan Highlands are still in their infancy,
for its development has been so recent; but therein lies much of its
charm. In the Pend Oreille Valley the leading city is Newport, the
county seat, prettily located on both sides of the river, half in Idaho
and half in Washington. In Stevens county are Chewelah, a mining town,
and Colville, the largest city in the region, with a population of over
1,500 people. A place that attracts tourists for miles is St. Mary's
Indian Mission on the Colville Indian Reservation near Omak. Other
interesting towns are scattered throughout the four counties.
[Illustration: WINESAP TREE
FIRST WATER ON THE LAND
A VINEYARD
PRUNE ORCHARD IN BLOOM
IRRIGATION SCENES IN EASTERN WASHINGTON.]
[Illustration: THE CITY OF SPOKANE FROM CLIFF PARK--MOUNT SPOKANE IN THE
DISTANCE.
Photo by Frank Palmer.]
THE SPOKANE COUNTRY.
From the city of Spokane all corners of the Inland Empire are easily
reached. Five transcontinental lines enter the city and two others
operate trains; while a network of electric lines serves the immediate
vicinity, penetrating the territory as far south as Colfax, Palouse, and
Moscow; southwest to Medical Lake and Cheney; and eastward to Hayden
Lake and Coeur d'Alene. Highways have been built through the most scenic
sections along the river valleys and up into the mountains. Each mode of
transportation unfolds a different panorama. The hills nearest Spokane
are covered with a dense growth of pine. Farther away are forests of
pine, fir, cedar, and tamarac, concealing many lakes teeming with trout
and black bass. Within a radius of a hundred miles are fifty mountain
lakes, thirty-eight of which are ideally located and supplied with all
necessary equipment for camping. They include Pend Oreille, the second
largest fresh water lake in the United States, fifty miles east; Hayden
Lake, forty miles east in the heart of the Idaho National Forest
Reserve; Chatcolet Lake, thirty-two miles distant; Liberty Lake,
seventeen miles; Priest Lake, seventy-eight miles; Spirit Lake,
forty-three miles; Coeur d'Alene, thirty-two miles; and Twin Lakes,
thirty-three miles.
The mountains are visible either to the north or the east. They are
neither as lofty nor as rugged as the Cascades and Olympics, but they
are nevertheless beautiful. The highest peak in eastern Washington is
Mount Spokane, 5,808 feet, twenty miles northeast of the city. From its
summit one may look out into the three northwestern states of Oregon,
Idaho and Washington, and into the province of British Columbia; and
count seventeen different lakes and rivers.
Towards the north are the Okanogan Highlands with the valleys of the
Pend Oreille and Colville, while the Bitter Root mountains are
approached on the east. The roads westward and southward lead past well
cultivated gardens, green meadows and groves, until finally is spread
before one a sea of grain--continuous wheat fields--the Big Bend to the
west and the Palouse to the south.
[Illustration: WHEAT RANCH
HARVESTING
SEEDING
INLAND EMPIRE WHEAT FIELDS.]
Towards the east the "Apple Way," one of the most remarkable roads in
America on account of the high class material of which it is
constructed, enters the Spokane Valley, crosses the state of Idaho and
connects with roads leading to the National Parks in Montana. This
valley more than thirty miles in length, with an average width of eight
miles, comprises a level irrigated country cut up into intensive garden
and orchard tracts. Thousands are supported in affluence by raising
apples, pears, cherries, small fruits, garden truck, poultry, and live
stock. The advantages of abundant water power, proximity to a great
city, rapid transit facilities, and a healthful climate, are quickly
transforming the region into one of attractive suburban homes.
[Illustration: METALINE FALLS ON THE PEND OREILLE.]
The Spokane River drops 1,280 feet in a distance of 100 miles, and 130
feet within the city limits, falling precipitously 70 feet in the heart
of the business section, over a dam 200 feet wide. On both sides is
built the city sloping towards its waters and overlooking the country
beyond. Extensive economic developments are taking place, there being
seven distinct projects under way which involve expenditures of nearly
$35,000,000. These include railroad construction, power plants,
manufacturing and business blocks, and hotels for tourists. Historical
events are associated with Fort George Wright, named for a famous Indian
fighter; Indian Canyon, tribal home of Spokane Indians; Mount Spokane,
a pow-wow place for Indian tribes; Fort Spokane, one of the first
government Indian posts; Old Block House, a protection for the early fur
traders; and Steptoe Butte, the scene of a famous battle.
[Illustration: A FAMOUS 600 ACRE ORCHARD
PALOUSE FALLS 198 FEET
WHITMAN'S MONUMENT
THE BLUE MOUNTAINS AN HOURS RIDE
126 BOXES A YEAR
SCENES AROUND WALLA WALLA.]
THE WHEAT PLATEAU.
The wheat belt includes principally the area within the big bend of the
Columbia river, the "Big Bend Country," which stretches eastward until
it blends with the rolling Palouse, one of the richest farm regions in
the northwest, and southeast across the Snake River to the Blue
Mountains; although considerable wheat is raised in the country lying
between the Columbia and the Cascades, as well as in the four counties
to the north. The green carpet is visible, in spring, and the waving
heads of yellow grain, in summer, extending away to the horizon. The
combined harvester, drawn by thirty-six horses, is a familiar example of
the immensity of the machinery needed when gathering the mammoth crop,
which for the entire state is in the neighborhood of 50,000,000 bushels
annually.