Bachelor's comforts--A valuable valet--Disembarked at the
Levee--A fair Castilian--Canaille--The Crescent city--
Reminiscence of school days--French cabarets--Cathedral--
Exchange--Cornhill--A chain of light--A fracas--Gens d'Armes
--An affair of honour--Arrive at our hotel.
How delightfully comfortable one feels, and how luxuriantly disposed to
quiet,--after having been tossed, and bruised, and tumbled about, _sans
ceremonie_, like a bale of goods, or a printer's devil, for many long
weary days and nights upon the slumberless sea--to be once more cosily
established in a smiling, elegant little parlour, carpeted, curtained,
and furnished with every tasteful convenience that a comfort loving,
home-made bachelor could covet. In such a pleasant sitting-room am I now
most enviably domesticated, and every thing around me contributes to the
happiness of my situation. A cheerful coal-fire burns in the grate--(for
the day is cloudy, misty, drizzly, foggy, and chilly, which is the best
definition I can give you, as yet, of a wet December's day in
New-Orleans,)--diffusing an agreeable temperature throughout the room,
and adding, by contrast with the dark gloomy streets, seen indistinctly
through the moist glass, to the enjoyment of my comforts. I am now
seated by my writing-desk at a table, drawn at an agreeable distance
from the fire-place--and fully convinced that a man never feels so
comfortably, as when ensconced in a snug parlour on a rainy day.
A statue of dazzling ebony, by name Antoine, to which the slightest look
or word will give instant animation, stands in the centre of the room,
contrasting beautifully in colour with the buff paper-hangings and
crimson curtains. He is a slave--about seventeen years of age, and a
bright, intelligent, active boy, nevertheless--placed at my disposal as
_valet_ while I remain here, by the kind attention of my obliging
hostess, Madame H----. He serves me in a thousand capacities, as
post-boy, cicerone, &c. and is on the whole, an extremely useful and
efficient attache.
Our party having safely landed on the Levee, nearly opposite Rue
Marigny, we commenced our long, yet in anticipation, delightful walk to
our hotel. We had disembarked about a quarter of a league below the
cathedral, from the front of which, just after we landed, the loud
report of the evening gun broke over the city, rattling and
reverberating through the long massively built streets, like the echoing
of distant thunder along mountain ravines. On a firm, smooth, gravelled
walk elevated about four feet, by a gradual ascent from the street--one
side open to the river, and the other lined with the "Pride of China,"
or India tree, we pursued our way to Chartres-street, the "Broadway" of
New-Orleans. The moon shone with uncommon brilliancy, and thousands,
even in this lower faubourg, were abroad, enjoying the beauty and
richness of the scene. Now, a trio of lively young Frenchmen would pass
us, laughing and conversing gayly upon some merry subject, followed by a
slow moving and stately figure, whose haughty tread, and dark
_roquelaure_ gathered with classic elegance around his form in graceful
folds, yet so arranged as to conceal every feature beneath his slouched
_sombrero_, except a burning, black, penetrating eye,--denoted the
exiled Spaniard.
We passed on--and soon the lively sounds of the French language, uttered
by soft voices, were heard nearer and nearer, and the next moment, two
or three duenna-like old ladies, remarkable for their "embonpoint"
dimensions, preceded a bevy of fair girls, without that most hideous of
all excrescences, with which women see fit to disfigure their heads,
denominated a "bonnet"--their brown, raven or auburn hair floating in
ringlets behind them.
There was one--a dark-locked girl--a superb creature, over whose head
and shoulders, secured above her forehead by a brilliant which in the
clear moon burned like a star, waved the folds of a snow-white veil in
the gentle breeze, created by her motion as she glided gracefully along.
She was a Castilian; and the mellow tones of her native land gave
richness to the light elegance of the French, as she breathed it like
music from her lips.
As we passed on, the number of promenaders increased, but scarcely a
lady was now to be seen. Every other gentleman we met was enveloped in a
cloud, not of bacchanalian, but tobacconalian incense, which gave a
peculiar atmosphere to the Levee.
Every, or nearly every gentleman carried a sword cane, apparently, and
occasionally the bright hilt of a Spanish knife, or dirk, would gleam
for an instant in the moon-beams from the open bosom of its possessor,
as, with the lowering brow, and active tread of wary suspicion, he moved
rapidly by us, his roundabout thrown over the left shoulder and secured
by the sleeves in a knot under the arm, which was thrust into his
breast, while the other arm was at liberty to attend to his segar, or
engage in any mischief to which its owner might be inclined. This class
of men are very numerous here. They are easily distinguished by their
shabby appearance, language, and foreign way of wearing their apparel.
In groups--promenading, lounging, and sleeping upon the seats along the
Levee--we passed several hundred of this _canaille_ of Orleans, before
we arrived at the "Parade," the public square in front of the cathedral.
They are mostly Spaniards and Portuguese, though there are among them
representatives from all the unlucky families which, at the building of
Babel, were dispersed over the earth. As to their mode and means of
existence, I have not as yet informed myself; but I venture to presume
that they resort to no means beneath the dignity of "caballeros!"
After passing the market on our right, a massive colonnade, about two
hundred and fifty feet in length, we left the Levee, and its endless
tier of shipping which had bordered one side of our walk all the way,
and passing under the China-trees, that still preserved their unbroken
line along the river, we crossed Levee-street, a broad, spacious
esplanade, running along the front of the main body or block of the
city, separating it from the Levee, and forming a magnificent
thoroughfare along the whole extensive river-line. From this high-way
streets shoot off at right angles, till they terminate in the swamp
somewhat less than a league back from the river. I have termed
New-Orleans the crescent city in one of my letters, from its being built
around the segment of a circle formed by a graceful curve of the river
at this place. Though the water, or shore-line, is very nearly
semi-circular, the Levee-street, above mentioned, does not closely
follow the shore, but is broken into two angles, from which the streets
diverge as before mentioned. These streets are again intersected by
others running parallel with the Levee-street, dividing the city into
squares, except where the perpendicular streets meet the angles, where
necessarily the "squares" are lessened in breadth at the extremity
nearest the river, and occasionally form pentagons and parallelograms,
with _oblique_ sides, if I may so express it.
After crossing Levee-street, we entered Rue St. Pierre, which issues
from it south of the grand square. This square is an open green,
surrounded by a lofty iron railing, within which troops of boys, whose
sports carried my thoughts away to "home, sweet home," were playing,
shouting and merry making, precisely as we used to do in days long past,
when the harvest-moon would invite us from our dwellings to the village
green, where many and many a joyful night we have played till the magic
voice of our good old Scotch preceptor was heard from the door of his
little cottage under the elms, "Laads, laads, it's unco time ye were in
bed, laads," warning us to our sleepy pillows. The front of this
extensive square was open to the river, bordered with its dark line of
ships; on each side were blocks of rusty looking brick buildings of
Spanish and French construction, with projecting balconies, heavy
cornices, and lofty jalousies or barricaded windows. The lower stories
of these buildings were occupied by retailers of fancy wares, vintners,
segar manufacturers, dried fruit sellers, and all the other members of
the innumerable occupations, to which the volatile, ever ready Frenchman
can always turn himself and a _sous_ into the bargain. As we passed
along, these shops were all lighted up, and the happy faces, merry
songs, and gay dances therein, occasionally contrasted with the shrill
tone of feminine anger in a foreign tongue, and the loud, fierce, rapid
voices of men mingling in dispute, added to the novelty and amusement of
our walk. I enumerated ten, out of seventeen successive shops or
_cabarets_, upon the shelves of which I could discover nothing but
myriads of claret and Madeira bottles, tier upon tier to the ceiling;
and from this fact I came to the conclusion, that some of the worthy
citizens of New-Orleans must be most unconscionable "wine-bibbers," if
not "publicans and sinners," as subsequent observation has led me to
surmise.
On the remaining side of this square stood the cathedral, its dark
moorish-looking towers flinging their vast shadows far over the water.
The whole front of the large edifice was thrown into deep shade, so that
when we approached, it presented one black mingled mass, frowning in
stern and majestic silence upon the surrounding scene.
Leaving this venerable building at the right, we turned into
Chartres-street, the second parallel with the Levee, and the most
fashionable, as well as greatest business street in the city. As we
proceeded, _cafes_, confectioners, fancy stores, millineries,
parfumeurs, &c. &c., were passed in rapid succession; each one of them
presenting something new, and always something to strike the attention
of strangers, like ourselves, for the first time in the only "foreign"
city in the United States.
At the corner of one of the streets intersecting Chartres-street--Rue
St. Louis I believe--we passed a large building, the lofty basement
story of which was lighted with a glare brighter than that of noon. In
the back ground, over the heads of two or three hundred loud-talking,
noisy gentlemen, who were promenading and vehemently gesticulating, in
all directions, through the spacious room--I discovered a bar, with its
peculiar dazzling array of glasses and decanters containing
"spirits"--not of "the vasty deep" certainly, but of whose potent spells
many were apparently trying the power, by frequent libations. This
building--of which and its uses more anon--I was informed, was the
"French" or "New Exchange." After passing Rue Toulouse, the streets
began to assume a new character; the buildings were loftier and more
modern--the signs over the doors bore English names, and the
characteristic arrangements of a northern dry goods store were
perceived, as we peered in at the now closing doors of many stores by
which we passed. We had now attained the upper part of Chartres-street,
which is occupied almost exclusively by retail and wholesale dry goods
dealers, jewellers, booksellers, &c., from the northern states, and I
could almost realize that I was taking an evening promenade in Cornhill,
so great was the resemblance.
As we successively crossed Rues Conti, Bienville and Douane, and looked
down these long straight avenues, the endless row of lamps, suspended in
the middle of these streets, as well as in all others in New-Orleans, by
chains or ropes, extended from house to house across, had a fine and
brilliant effect, which we delayed for a moment on the flag-stone to
admire, endeavouring to reach with our eyes the almost invisible
extremity of this line of flame. Just before we reached the head of
Chartres-street, near Bienville, in the immediate vicinity of which is
the boarding house of Madame H----, where we intended to take rooms, our
way was impeded by a party of gentlemen in violent altercation in
English and French, who completely blocked up the "trottoir." "Sir,"
said one of the party--a handsome, resolute-looking young man--in a calm
deliberate voice, which was heard above every other, and listened to as
well--"Sir, you have grossly insulted me, and I shall expect from you,
immediately--before we separate--an acknowledgment, adequate to the
injury." "Monsieur," replied a young Frenchman whom he had addressed,
in French, "Monsieur, I never did insult you--a gentleman never insults!
you have misunderstood me, and refuse to listen to a candid
explanation." "The explanation you have given sir," reiterated the first
speaker, "is not sufficient--it is a subterfuge;" here many voices
mingled in loud confusion, and a renewed and more violent altercation
ensued which prevented our hearing distinctly; and as we had already
crossed to the opposite side of the street, having ladies under escort,
we rapidly passed on our way, but had not gained half a square before
the clamour increased to an uproar--steel struck steel--one, then
another pistol was discharged in rapid succession--"guards!" "gens
d'armes, _gens d'armes_," "guards! guards!" resounded along the streets,
and we arrived at our hotel, just in time to escape being run down, or
run through at their option probably, by half a dozen gens d'armes in
plain blue uniforms, who were rushing with drawn swords in their hands
to the scene of contest, perfectly well assured in our own minds, that
we had most certainly arrived at NEW-ORLEANS!
Though affairs of the kind just described are no uncommon thing here,
and are seldom noticed in the papers of the day--yet the following
allusion to the event of last evening may not be uninteresting to you,
and I will therefore copy it, and terminate my letter with the extract.
"An affray occurred last night in the vicinity of Bienville-street, in
which one young gentleman was severely wounded by the discharge of a
pistol, and another slightly injured by a dirk. An "_affaire d'honneur_"
originated from this, and the parties met this morning. Dr. ---- of
New-York, one of the principals, was mortally wounded by his antagonist
M. Le---- of this city."