Louisiana--Arrival at New-Orleans--Land--Pilot stations
--Pilots--Anecdote--Fort--Forests--Levee--Crevasses--Alarms
--Accident--Espionage--A Louisianian palace--Grounds--
Sugar-house--Quarters--An African governess--Sugar cane--
St. Mary--"English Turn"--Cavalcade--Battle ground--Music
--Sounds of the distant city--Land in New-Orleans--An
_amateur_ sailor.
We are at last in New-Orleans, the queen of the South-west--the American
Waterloo, whose Wellington, "General Jackson"--according to the elegant
ballad I believe still extant in the "Boston picture-books,"
---- "quick did go
With Yankee(?) troops to meet the foe;
We met them near to New-Orleans
And made their blood to flow in streams."
New-Orleans! the play-thing of monarchs. "Swapped," as boys swap their
penknives. Discovered and lost by the French--possessed by the
gold-hunting Spaniard--again ceded to the French--exchanged for a
kingdom with the man who traded in empires, and sold by him, for a
"plum" to our government!
We arrived between eight and nine last evening, after a very pleasant
run of twenty-eight hours from the Balize, charmed and delighted of
course with every thing. If we had landed at the entrance of Vulcan's
smithy from so long a sea-passage, it would have been precisely the
same--all would have appeared "_couleur de rose_." To be _on land_, even
were it a sand bank, is all that is requisite to render it in the eyes
of the new landed passenger, a Paradise.
During the first part of our sail up the river, there was nothing
sufficiently interesting in the way of incident or variety of scenery,
to merit the trouble either of narration or perusal. Till we arrived
within forty-five or fifty miles of New-Orleans, the shores of the river
presented the same flat, marshy appearance previously described. With
the exception of two or three "pilot stations," near its mouth, I do not
recollect that we passed any dwelling. These "stations" are situated
within a few miles of the mouth of the river, and are the residences of
the pilots. The one on the left bank of the river, which I had an
opportunity of visiting, contained about sixteen or eighteen houses,
built upon piles, in the midst of the morass, which is the only apology
for land within twenty leagues. One third of these are dwelling houses,
connected with each other for the purpose of intercourse, by raised
walks or bridges, laid upon the surface of the mud, and constructed of
timber, logs, and wrecks of vessels. Were a hapless wight to lose his
footing, he would descend as easily and gracefully into the bosom of the
yielding loam, as into a barrel of soft soap. The intercourse with the
shore, near which this miserable, isolated congregation of shanties is
imbedded, is also kept up by a causeway of similar construction and
materials.
The pilots, of whom there are from twelve to twenty at each station, are
a hardy, rugged class of men. Most of them have been mates of
merchantmen, or held some inferior official station in the navy. The
majority of them, I believe, are English, though Americans, Frenchmen
and Spaniards, are not wanting among their number. The moral character
of this class of men, generally, does not stand very high, though there
are numerous instances of individuals among them, whose nautical skill
and gentlemanly deportment reflect honour upon their profession.
It is by no means an unusual circumstance for the commander of a ship,
on entering a harbour, to resign, _pro tem._, the charge of his vessel
to a pilot, whom a few years before, while a petty officer under his
command, he may have publicly disgraced and dismissed from his ship for
some misdemeanor.
In eighteen hundred and twenty-seven, when off Maldonado, ascending the
La Plata, a Spanish pilot came on board a ship of war; and as he stalked
aft from the gangway, with the assumed hauteur of littleness in power,
the penetrating eye of one of the lieutenants was fixed upon his
countenance with a close and scrutinizing gaze. The eye of the pilot
fell beneath its stern expression for a moment; but he again raised it,
and stealing a quick, furtive, and apparently recognising glance at the
officer, his dark brown face changed suddenly to the hue of death, and
with a fearful cry, he sprang with the activity of a cat into the mizen
rigging; but before he could leap over the quarter, the officer had
seized a musket from a marine, and fired: the ball struck him near the
elbow the instant he had cleared the rigging. A heavy splash was heard
in the water, and as those on deck flew to the stern, a dark spot of
blood upon the water was the only evidence that a human being had sunk
beneath. While they were engaged in looking upon the spot where he had
plunged, and wondering, without knowing the cause, at this summary
method of proceeding on the part of the lieutenant, a cry, "there he
is," was heard and repeated by fifty voices, naval discipline to the
contrary notwithstanding, and about twenty fathoms astern, the black
head of the pilot was seen emerging from the waves--but the next
instant, with a horrible Spanish curse, he dived from their sight, and
in a few minutes, appeared more than a hundred yards astern.
It appeared that during the well-known piratical depredations, a few
years previous, in the vicinity of Key West and Cape St. Antonio, this
officer had the command of a shore expedition against the pirates.
During the excursion he attacked a large band of them in their retreats,
and, after a long and warmly contested conflict, either slew or took the
whole party prisoners. Among those was the redoubtable pilot, who held
the goodly office of second in command among those worthy gentlemen. But
as they proceeded to their schooner, which lay half a league from the
shore, the rover, not liking the prospect which his skill in "second
sight" presented to his fancy, suddenly, with a powerful effort, threw
off the two men between whom he was seated, and leaping, with both arms
pinioned behind him, over the head of the astonished bow oarsman,
disappeared "instanter;" and while a score of muskets and pistols were
levelled in various directions, made his appearance, in a few minutes,
about a furlong astern, and out of reach of shot. It was thought useless
to pursue him in a heavy barge, and he effected his escape. This said
swimmer was recognised by the lieutenant in the person of the pilot; and
as the recognition was mutual, the scene I have narrated followed.
At sunrise, the morning after leaving the Balize, we passed the ruins,
or rather the former location, (for the traces are scarcely perceptible)
of the old Spanish fort Plaquemine, where, while this country was under
Spanish government, all vessels were obliged to heave to, and produce
their passports for the inspection of the sage, big-whiskered Dons, who
were there whilom domesticated.
Toward noon, the perpetual sameness of the shores, (they cannot be
termed _banks_) of the river, were relieved by clumps of cypress and
other trees, which gradually, as we advanced, increased into forests,
extending back to a level horizon, as viewed from the mast-head, and
overhanging both sides of the river. Though so late in the season, they
still retained the green freshness of summer, and afforded an agreeable
contrast to the dry and leafless forests which we had just left at the
north. At a distance, we beheld the first plantation to be seen on
ascending the river. As we approached it, we discovered from the deck
the commencement of the embankment or "Levee," which extends, on both
sides of the river, to more than one hundred and fifty miles above
New-Orleans. This _levee_ is properly a dike, thrown up on the verge of
the river, from twenty-five to thirty feet in breadth, and two feet
higher than high-water mark; leaving a ditch, or fosse, on the inner
side, of equal breadth, from which the earth to form the levee is taken.
Consequently, as the land bordering on the river is a dead level, and,
without the security of the levee, overflowed at half tides, when the
river is full, or within twenty inches, as it often is, of the top of
the embankment, the surface of the river will be _four feet higher_ than
the surface of the country; the altitude of the inner side of the levee
being usually six feet above the general surface of the surrounding
land.
This is a startling truth; and at first leads to reflections by no means
favorable in their results, to the safety, either of the lives or
property of the inhabitants of the lowlands of Louisiana. But closer
observation affords the assurance that however threatening a mass of
water four feet in height, two thousand five hundred in breadth, and of
infinite length, may be in appearance, experience has not shown to any
great extent, that the residents on the borders of this river have in
reality, more to apprehend from an inundation, so firm and efficacious
is their levee, than those who reside in more apparent security, upon
the elevated banks of our flooding rivers of the north. It cannot be
denied that there have been instances where "crevasses" as they are
termed here, have been gradually worn through the levee, by the
attrition of the waters, when, suddenly starting through in a wiry
stream, they rapidly enlarge to torrents which, with the force, and
noise, and rushing of a mill-race, shoot away over the plantations,
inundating the sugar fields, and losing themselves in the boundless
marshes in the rear. But on such occasions, which however are not
frequent, the alarm is given and communicated by the plantation bells,
and before half an hour elapses, several hundred negroes, with their
masters, (who all turn out on these occasions, as at a fire,) will have
gathered to the spot, and at the expiration of another half-hour, the
breach will be stopped, the danger past, and the "Monarch of rivers,"
subdued by the hand of man, will be seen again moving, submissively
obedient, within his prescribed limits, sullenly, yet majestically to
the ocean.
During the afternoon, we passed successively many sugar plantations, in
the highest state of cultivation. Owing to the elevation of the levee,
and the low situation of the lands, we could see from the deck only the
upper story of the planters' residences upon the shore; but from the
main top, we had an uninterrupted view of every plantation which we
passed. As they very much resemble each other in their general features,
a description of one of them will be with a little variation applicable
to all. Fortunately for me, a slight accident to our machinery, which
delayed us fifteen or twenty minutes, in front of one of the finest
plantations below New-Orleans, enabled me to put in practice a short
system of _espionage_ upon the premises, from the main top, with my
spy-glass, that introduced me into the very _sanctum_ of the enchanting
ornamental gardens, in which the palace-like edifice was half-embowered.
The house was quadrangular, with a high steep Dutch roof, immensely
large, and two stories in height; the basement or lower story being
constructed of brick, with a massive colonnade of the same materials on
all sides of the building. This basement was raised to a level with the
summit of the levee, and formed the ground-work or basis of the edifice,
which was built of wood, painted white, with Venetian blinds, and
latticed verandas, supported by slender and graceful pillars, running
round every side of the dwelling. Along the whole western front,
festooned in massive folds, hung a dark-green curtain, which is dropped
along the whole length of the balcony in a summer's afternoon, not only
excluding the burning rays of the sun, but inviting the inmates to a
cool and refreshing _siesta_, in some one of the half dozen network
hammocks, which we discovered suspended in the veranda. The basement
seemed wholly unoccupied, and probably was no more than an over-ground
cellar. At each extremity of the piazza was a broad and spacious flight
of steps, descending into the garden which enclosed the dwelling on
every side.
Situated about two hundred yards back from the river, the approach to it
was by a lofty massive gateway which entered upon a wide gravelled walk,
bordered by dark foliaged orange trees, loaded with their golden fruit.
Pomegranate, fig, and lemon trees, shrubs, plants and exotics of every
clime and variety, were dispersed in profusion over this charming
_parterre_. Double palisades of lemon and orange trees surrounded the
spot, forming one of the loveliest and most elegant rural retirements,
that imagination could create or romantic ambition desire. About half a
mile in the rear of the dwelling, I observed a large brick building with
lofty chimneys resembling towers. This was the sugar-house, wherein the
cane undergoes its several transmutations, till that state of
_perfection_ is obtained, which renders it marketable.
On the left and diagonally from the dwelling house we noticed a very
neat, pretty village, containing about forty small snow-white cottages,
all precisely alike, built around a pleasant square, in the centre of
which, was a grove or cluster of magnificent sycamores. Near by,
suspended from a belfry, was the bell which called the slaves to and
from their work and meals. This village was their residence, and under
the shade of the trees in the centre of the square, we could discern
troops of little ebony urchins from the age of eight years downward, all
too young to work in the field, at their play--under the charge of an
old, crippled _gouvernante_, who, being past "field service," was thus
promoted in the "home department."
This plantation was about one mile and a half in depth from the river,
terminating, like all in lower Louisiana, in an impenetrable cypress
swamp; and about two miles in breadth by the levee. About one half was
waving with the rich long-leafed cane, and agreeably variegated,
exhibiting every delicate shade from the brightest yellow to the darkest
green. A small portion of the remainder was in corn, which grows
luxuriantly in this country, though but little cultivated; and the rest
lay in fallow, into which a portion of every plantation is thrown,
alternately, every two years.
By the time I had completed my observations, spying the richness, rather
than "the nakedness" of the land, the engineer had arranged the
machinery and we were again in motion; passing rapidly by rich gardens,
spacious avenues, tasteful villas, and extensive fields of cane, bending
to the light breeze with the wavy motion of the sea. Just before sunset
we passed the site of the old fort St. Mary, and in half an hour after,
swept round into the magnificent curve denominated the "English
Turn."[3] As we sailed along, gay parties, probably returning from and
going to, the city, on horseback, in barouches and carriages, were
passing along the level road within the levee; their heads and shoulders
being only visible above it, gave to the whole cavalcade a singularly
ludicrous appearance--a strange bobbing of heads, hats and feathers,
suggesting the idea of a new genus of locomotives amusing themselves
upon the green sward.
Much to our regret, we did not arrive opposite the "battle ground" till
some time after sunset. But we were in some measure remunerated for our
disappointment, by gazing down upon the scene of the conflict from
aloft, while as bright and clear a moon as ever shed its mellow radiance
over a southern landscape, poured its full flood of light upon the now
quiet battle field. I could distinguish that it was under cultivation,
and that princely dwellings were near and around it; and my ear told me
as we sailed swiftly by, that where shouts of conflict and carnage once
broke fiercely upon the air, now floated the lively notes of cheerful
music, which were wafted over the waters to the ship, falling pleasantly
upon the ear.
The lights and habitations along the shore now became more frequent.
Luggers, manned by negroes, light skiffs, with a solitary occupant in
each, and now and then a dark hulled vessel, her lofty sails, reflecting
the bright moon light, appearing like snowy clouds in the clear blue
sky, were rapidly and in increasing numbers, continually gliding by us.
By these certain indications we knew that we were not far from the goal
so long the object of our wishes.
We had been anticipating during the morning an early arrival, when the
panorama of the crescent city should burst upon our view enriched, by
the mellow rays of a southern sun, with every variety of light and shade
that could add to the beauty or novelty of the scene. But our sanguine
anticipations were not to be realized. The shades of night had long
fallen over the town, when, as we swiftly moved forward, anxiously
trying to penetrate the obscurity, an interminable line of lights
gradually opened in quick succession upon our view; and a low hum, like
the far off roaring of the sea, with the heavy and irregular tolling of
a deep mouthed bell, was borne over the waves upon the evening breeze,
mingling at intervals with loud calls far away on the shore, and fainter
replies still more distant. The fierce and incessant baying of dogs, and
as we approached nearer, the sound of many voices, as in a tumult;--and
anon, the wild, clear, startling notes of a bugle, waking the slumbering
echoes on the opposite shore, succeeded by the solitary voice of some
lonely singer, blended with the thrumming notes of a guitar, falling
with melancholy cadence upon the ear--all gave indications that we were
rapidly approaching the termination of our voyage.
In a few minutes, as we still shot onward, we could trace a thousand
masts, penciled distinctly with all their network rigging upon the clear
evening sky. We moved swiftly in among them; and gradually checking her
speed, the tow-boat soon came nearly to a full stop, and casting off the
ship astern, rounded to and left us along side of a Salem ship, which
lay outside of a tier "six deep." When the bustle and confusion of
making fast had subsided, we began our preparations to go on shore. So
anxious were we once more to tread "terra firma," that we determined not
to wait for a messenger to go half a mile for a carriage, but to walk
through the gayly lighted streets to our hotel in Canal-street, more
than a mile distant. So after much trouble in laying planks, for the
surer footing of the ladies, from gangway to gangway, we safely reached,
after crossing half a dozen ships, the firm, immoveable Levee. I will
now briefly relate the little history of our truly elegant brig, as I
partially promised to do in my last, and conclude this long, long
letter.
Her commander was formerly an officer of the United States navy. He is a
graduate of Harvard University, and presents in his person the
admirable union of the polished gentleman, finished scholar, and
practical seaman. Inheriting a princely fortune from a bachelor uncle,
he returned to Massachusetts, his native state, and built according to
his own taste the beautiful vessel he now commands. He has made in her
one voyage to India, and two up the Mediterranean, and is now at this
port to purchase a cargo of cotton for the European market. His officers
are gentlemen of education and nautical science; his equals and
companions in the cabin, though his subordinates on the deck.
If the imagination of the lonely sailor, as he mechanically paces his
midnight watch, creates an Utopia in the wide ocean of futurity, if
there be a limit to the enjoyment of a refined seaman's wishes, or a "ne
plus ultra," to his ambition, they must all be realized and achieved, by
the sole command and control of a vessel so correctly beautiful as the
D----; so ably officered and manned, so opulent with every luxury,
comfort, and convenience, and free as the winds to go and come over the
"dark blue sea," obedient alone to the uncontrolled will and submissive
to the lightest pleasure of her absolute commander.