CHAPTER V.

Mauritius—The Introduction of Labour from India—Machinery

and Guano—Population—Revenue Exceeds the Expenditure

Considerably—Immigration Crimps—Coloured Ball—The Key to

India—The Governor of Réunion offers to Garrison “the Isle

of France”—Port Louis—Two Bishops—Bad Hôtels—“Dieu et Mon

Droit”—“Trumpeters before Travellers”—“There, you Poor

Devil!”—The Colonel’s Wedding-day—British Barque “Sutton” Opens

a New Description of Slave-Trade—The Gallant Affair of the

“Sarah Sands.”

The history of the Island of Mauritius, or—as the French will insist

upon calling it—the Isle of France, is too well known to be even briefly

alluded to here. But as this island, from its position in the Indian

Ocean, has been hitherto looked upon as the key, or stepping-stone, to

our possessions in the East, a short statement of its present state

may not be unacceptable to the general reader; more especially as this

island, together with that of Barbadoes, are the two great striking

examples of the success of the British emancipation of the slaves, when

followed up by an adequate supply of free labour.

The cessation of the apprenticeship of the former slaves took place in

April, 1839; but as the abolition of slavery had been proclaimed four

years previous, and many of the apprentices obtained by purchase, or

otherwise, their complete liberty, the colonists began to replace them

by the introduction of natives from India. The Government offered no

obstacle to this introduction of labourers; there was no restriction as

to the number to be carried in each vessel, and from 1834 to 1838, 24,566

of the natives of India were introduced into the island of Mauritius.

These labourers engaged to work at field labour for a term of five years,

at the rate of five rupees per month; and a certain amount, it appears,

was retained out of their wages to provide a passage back to India, if

they wished, at the expiration of their engagement.

From the facility with which labour was obtained from India, the

newly-emancipated labourers were entirely neglected; and if the

Government had not checked this supply of labour, the wise and beneficent

intentions of the British Legislature, in responding to the call of the

nation, and emancipating the slaves throughout our colonies, would here

have been entirely frustrated, and the godlike boon of liberty would only

have been the precursor to a miserable death by famine.

The want of control in the shipment of these immigrants in the Indian

ports led to abuse; for vessels took a much larger amount of persons than

they had room for on board, and the natural consequence was that disease

was created on board of the vessels, and numbers of the coolies perished

on the voyage to this El Dorado of the native of India.

At this time the Imperial Government and the Government of India wisely

stepped in, and for a time stopped a system of immigration which

at that time was creating a great amount of suffering, both to the

lately-emancipated negro, and also to the native of India endeavouring

to better his condition by proceeding to the Mauritius.

But on its being fairly shown that the ex-apprentices could not be

brought back to field labour—which they looked upon as a mark of that

abject slavery from which they had just been released, and that their

labour found employment in other channels, the Imperial Government,

after having stopped this labour for four years, namely from 1838 to

1842—removed the prohibition on the introduction of Indians. During this

prohibition, the staple product of the island, viz., sugar, declined from

39,559 tons in 1840 to 36,542 tons in 1842.

Since the prohibition of the introduction of Indian labourers in 1842 was

removed, the produce of agricultural industry in this colony has been

regular and rapid, the increase of the productions of the soil being in

proportion to the introduction of labourers as follows:—

Year. No. of Indians in the Colony. Sugar Exported.

Males. Females. lbs.

1842 18,105 888 73,082,177

1857 107,072 35,452 229,321,468

and also in nearly the same proportion during the intermediate years.

Mauritius has suffered from more than one crisis in the money-market

during the last twenty years, which may be fairly traced to the cessation

of immigration from 1838 to 1843, as well as to the modification and

equalization of the duties on foreign sugar, in 1842 and 1846. The last

crisis, that of 1847-8, proved so violent as to completely annihilate

some houses connected with large London firms, who had been led to

advance considerable sums of money in the hope of eventually obtaining

returns from the estates they were supporting. Since this last crisis

there has been less speculation, and estates are said to have been

managed with more economy than formerly. I was told that they are now

better cultivated, and, from the introduction of superior machinery, the

manufacture of sugar is more economical.

The introduction of guano has done wonders for this island; for by the

use of it in the wet districts, where the soil is of a cold clayey

nature, land formerly deemed unfitted for the culture of the sugar-cane

has become some of the most fertile in the island.

The increase of production and consumption, added to the large

immigration of native labour from India, has given employment to an

increased number of shipping; while the repeal of the navigation laws

in 1850 threw the ports of this small colony open to the vessels of all

nations.

In 1857, the population of the island amounted to 239,007 persons,

consisting of:—

General population 55,794

Ex-Apprentice ditto 40,678

Immigrant ditto 142,534

Taxes have lately been much reduced; but the extending trade, larger

production, and increasing population and wealth have raised the revenue

of this thriving colony far beyond the expenditure.

The large amount of 79,500_l._ sterling is annually expended on

immigration, while every means are taken to see the immigrant properly

protected. In consequence of the competition among the planters for

labour, a system of crimpage existed at Mauritius, when I visited that

island, which was injurious to the best interests of the immigrant and

his employer; the middle-men or crimps, who obtained the labourers on

their arrival in the island, being the only parties benefited. While

the expense of importing a labourer from India has cost a planter 6_l._

for the passage-money of the immigrant, I have known instances in which

he was obliged to pay the crimp an additional 6_l._ to secure the

immigrant—which, together with a further expense of 2_l._ for government

fees, made each labourer placed on the estate, before he began to work,

cost 14_l._

By recent regulations enabling the planter to engage the immigrant in

India, and making that engagement binding on their arrival at Mauritius,

the crimpage system will now be done away with.

With regard to the treatment of the blacks, natives of India, or

ex-apprentices, nothing could be more liberal, nor could freedom be more

perfect than that which they enjoy.

I have been in many mixed communities, and have seen the black in Cuba,

Jamaica, and all the other West India Islands, in Sierra Leone, Liberia,

and Mozambique, but I have never seen him enjoying a better position in

the social circle than at Mauritius.

Soon after our arrival at Port Louis, we were invited to a coloured ball,

at which the Governor and principal ladies of the island were guests;

the dresses of the ladies, for beauty or costliness, could not have been

surpassed in Paris or London; while the ceremonies of the ball-room and

supper-table were conducted with the utmost decorum and grace.

The employers being so much at the mercy of the employed, the labouring

classes are insolent in the extreme; and any amount of wealth does not

secure the more opulent portion of the community from suffering from a

want which no amount of money can purchase.

In the towns and on the plantations everywhere one hears the same

complaint—the bad conduct of the servants. Coolies from Madras and

Calcutta, who really are good servants, after a few months’ residence on

the island, become lazy, insolent, and drunkards.

For the coloured population, the rate of wages is a great deal too high;

the consequence is that the majority spend their abundance in drink,

and, when under the influence of this, much mischief, and crimes of a

minor description, are committed. The Government of the island is, in

a great measure, answerable for this, for the number of small drinking

places which they license throughout the island. Every plantation has the

curse of one or more small drinking place, just beyond the limits of the

grounds, where the labourers betake themselves at any hour, and absent

themselves from their work for any time they please.

For this conduct, on the part of the labourer, the employer has little or

no redress; as, if he punishes the coolie, he loses his services while

imprisoned, and the period of engagement is progressing, just as if he

were engaged in the field instead of the prison.

If those labourers who are committed to prison were usefully employed

in improving the roads, which in general are bad, a wholesome dread of

prison discipline would be instilled, which, in a short time, would have

a beneficial effect on the labouring community.

The great obstacle to the suppression of these small drinking shops is

the large revenue which their licences bring in to the Government. This

is one of the causes of the revenue so far exceeding the expenditure;

and this unhealthy state of prosperity, based on the immorality and

demoralization of the masses, must, sooner or later, bring a destructive

change, leading to the most serious results.

The Indian population, already overpaid and demoralized by the excessive

use of intoxicating liquors, if thrown out of employment by two

successive years of failure of the sugar-cane—the staple product of the

island—and the consequent ruin of many of the planters, deprived of the

means of living, and excited by the intoxicating drinks which have now

become habitual to them, would commit the most frightful excesses, and

incalculable injury might be inflicted on the interests of the colony ere

the Executive could be sufficiently strengthened to check these excesses.

From its position in the Indian Ocean, this island should always have a

reserve of at least 10,000 men, who would be acclimatized for our eastern

possessions, and form a force at all times available for service, from

Bombay to our furthest eastern possession, while its proximity to the

Cape of Good Hope, Natal, and Aden, would afford our garrisons in those

parts ready aid, in case of a sudden outbreak among the natives of Africa

or Arabia.

At the neighbouring French island of Réunion, formerly called Bourbon,

there is always a large force, evidently with the view of being useful

in those seas in the case of any sudden emergency. This force consists

of five regiments, each 800 strong, and a municipal force of about 1,600

men, making in all about 6,000 men, within one night’s steaming distance

of this little gem of the Indian Ocean; while the island of Mauritius

has been left without more than four small companies of one regiment to

protect it.

I know from the best authority that, when the Indian mutiny broke out,

the kind-hearted and polite Governor of Réunion, evidently desirous to

carry out the _entente cordiale_ existing between the two nations to its

fullest extent, offered to garrison the Isle of France, or, as we call

it, Mauritius, with French troops; but with many thanks his generous

offer was politely declined, although, I believe, we had not 400 fighting

men on the island—while there were nearly 6,000 Frenchmen longing for a

glorious _coup d’état_, within ten or twelve hours steaming distance from

our “key to India.”

The island of Mauritius presents the most diversified and beautiful

scenery throughout, being everywhere in a high state of cultivation. From

the moment of its being seen from the deck of a ship on the Indian Ocean,

until it fades away in the distance, it presents one continued view of

rich vegetation. Many of the planters’ seats are luxurious abodes; and

all those having English for their owners, or residents, may be known by

that air of comfort which accompanies an English home in every quarter of

the globe.

The principal city is Port Louis, which is beautifully situated in the

centre of a snug harbour, having in its rear an amphitheatre of hills,

which inclose a space where the races and reviews take place. The town is

a mixture of houses built in the English and French styles, and, being

situated principally on a steep incline, might, if properly drained,

be one of the healthiest spots in the world; but, in consequence of the

neglect of this necessary precaution in that climate, the inhabitants

suffer greatly when cholera invades the island, in spite of the admirable

quarantine regulations established there. There are two cathedrals and

two bishops, for the Protestant and Roman Catholic religions. Dr. Ryan,

the Lord Bishop of Mauritius, is indefatigable in “all good works,” and

already his labours have produced their good fruits, by the awakening

of the Protestant community to what may, from all statements, be really

called “a new life.”

With the surplus revenue of this colony, for more than twenty years

of almost uninterrupted prosperity, one is surprised to find no great

buildings, the general mark of social progress. In all the Roman colonies

these marks of their ameliorating influence were found; but here, as in

many other British colonies, there are no monuments to mark the dominion

of a mighty nation. People at the Mauritius appear bent upon making

money, and then returning to Europe—few looking upon it as their abiding

place.

The island keeps pace with modern improvements, in machinery especially;

and preparations are making for the establishment of a railway, which

will lead to the further development of this fruitful little island.

The hotels are the worst managed establishments I have ever seen;

firstly, because the proprietors are all above their business, driving

in equipages which outvie those of the Governor and principal planters;

and, secondly, because the law between employer and employed is not

sufficiently binding, and consequently the hotel proprietors have no

control over their servants.

In the Hôtel d’Europe, I have known every one in the house waiting for

breakfast, while all the waiters were employed in polishing up the

harness for the horses of the splendid carriage of the proprietor, which

bore on the panel the armorial bearings of a noble English family,

without the bend of bastardy, to which the owner was alone entitled;

while, surmounting the arms, there was the representation of a cockatoo

fluttering, with a ribbon in its mouth, on which was the royal motto,

“_Dieu et mon droit!_”

On another occasion, wishing to have breakfast previous to going to

church on Sunday morning, the boarders in this hotel requested to know

the cause of delay, and they were told that a party of gentlemen were

engaged in breakfasting in the public room, and that the boarders who

supported the house could not breakfast until the gentlemen had finished.

In company with a naval friend, I ventured to intrude on the privacy

of the strangers, when we were presented with the sight of the German

brass band—they, their wives, and their little ones—belonging to this

fashionable hotel, at breakfast. Being a traveller, and from time to

time seeing various strange scenes, I observed to my friend that this

was doubtless “the custom of the country.” To which he replied that

in that little island “trumpeters evidently came before travellers.”

Remonstrance was quite useless; so, after the Germans had finished their

“sauer-kraut,” we, who supported them, were allowed to eat off the same

table.

After the excitement of arriving at Port Louis had somewhat worn off,

my wife and myself were very ill, and confined to our room, with low

nervous fever from the effects of the Mozambique affair. During this

time we should certainly have fared very badly, if it had not been for

the widow of a naval officer and her daughter, Mrs. Russell, who were

unremitting in their kind attentions to us—even bringing nice nourishing

soup from their own house for us, it being quite impossible to obtain

anything, even a drop of water when one was sick, from those in the

hotel, although we were paying very handsomely.

The whole of the first floor was originally intended for a large

ball-room; and so as not to interfere with this design (for which it

is sometimes required, when the guests have to go without beds), it

is partitioned off into small apartments, barely large enough to hold

a small iron bed and wash-hand stand. The wooden partitions dividing

these spaces into apartments are about ten feet in height, there being a

space between them and the ceiling of some six or seven feet—so that one

may hear everything going on over the whole floor. In fact, the wooden

partitions simply acted as screens to divide one bed from the other.

The usual mode of calling the servants at table was by dropping a

tumbler on the marble floor, which, breaking in pieces, had the effect

of drawing the attention of the proprietor of the arms surmounted with a

fluttering cockatoo, who immediately made his appearance to look after

his motto—“_Dieu et mon droit._”

In this first-rate hotel, with its brass band and flaming advertisements

in the local papers, I have seen people, on returning to the hotel after

spending the evening at some family party, obliged to find the way to

their room by means of a candle stuck in a black bottle, which had been

lighted by a match supplied by the driver of the coach which brought

them to the door of the hotel—every servant remaining in the house being

insensibly drunk.

After recovering from our short attack of illness, we removed to an

adjoining hotel just opened, where we could procure decent apartments,

but nothing to eat. We had therefore to make arrangements with another

hotel for our meals—but they would not undertake to send the meals, as

the servants were so bad they could not depend on them bringing the

things as required. On the other hand, they had no rooms vacant. I was

therefore obliged to hire a Madras coolie, named “Sammy,” to act as

“butler,” as he styled it.

On arriving at the second hotel, one of the servants lifted out of the

carriage a bird-cage, and carried it up to my room, for which he demanded

payment.

Tired, ill, and worried, in the hope of getting rid of his importunity,

I put my hand into my pocket and reached him a shilling, not having any

smaller change about me at the time. Looking very hard at the shilling,

which was lying on the palm of his hand, he backed to what he considered

a safe distance, and then the “poor black” asked me if “I called myself a

gentleman in offering him a shilling?” Without waiting for my answer, he

slapped his leg to make the money in his pocket jingle, and then putting

his hand into his pocket he pulled out a shilling, which, adding to the

one I had given to him, he threw at my feet, and exclaiming, “There, you

poor devil!” he walked off.

Sammy, after the first day, acted fool—and he did it admirably—but the

only way was to keep one’s temper, and patience generally conquered.

My wife’s appetite and my own were exceedingly small, but still we found

what the hotel sent us for dinner was less than we could fairly manage.

I asked our host to add another dish, but yet there seemed to be a small

supply.

One day I observed Sammy enter the hotel with our dinner on his head, and

thinking he took a very long time coming from the hall door to my room,

I went in search of my “butler.” I found him in an adjoining room with

the dinner spread out on the floor, and in deep consultation with another

“poor black,” as to how much more they ought to remove from the dishes

before “butler” laid dinner before his master. I had the dinner restored

to the dishes, and on that occasion I found that the hotel-keeper

furnished much more than was necessary.

These anecdotes are necessary to show what I really saw, and how much the

“poor blacks” have the upper hand at Mauritius.

All ranks are entirely at the mercy of their servants, as the following

account of what occurred in an officer’s family will illustrate.

Colonel B. was celebrated for giving good dinners; and Mrs. B. used to

smile at the different tales which she heard of the servants in the

island.

She was in the habit of humouring the servants; and although they used

occasionally to absent themselves for days, and the colonel and his lady,

on returning from church on Sunday, have had to dine on cheese and bread,

as the butler was quite drunk under the dining-room table, and the cook

had fortified himself in the kitchen, threatening to run anyone through

who dared to invade his dominions—still Mrs. Colonel B. said “that these

‘poor blacks,’ had gratitude; for whenever they had a dinner-party they

never behaved badly.”

The colonel’s charming dinner-parties had an end, from the circumstances

arising out of the keeping up of their wedding-day. A nice party of

guests were invited, and everything went like a marriage feast, until

shortly before dinner, when the colonel’s dress boots were not to be

found anywhere. Better had he not troubled himself further about the said

boots. The butler was sent for, and he said he knew nothing about the

cause of the absence of the boots. Mrs. B. was appealed to, and she could

give no information. And the colonel at last told the butler that he

would make him pay for the missing boots.

Blackey immediately got saucy, and the colonel gave him a whipping. The

guests were arriving, the colonel hurried to meet them, and the boots

were forgotten.

Dinner was announced, and the party were ushered into the dining-room.

Soup and fish were served—and there was a considerable pause. The room

being left without a single attendant, Mrs. B. rose and retired to see

what was the cause of the delay. Along the passages, in the verandah, and

on the way to the kitchen, which was some distance from the house, she

met with no one. On entering the kitchen she found that also deserted.

She called, but no one answered.

Looking round for the dinner, she observed all the dishes standing on a

table, placed there for the purpose of serving the dinner up, preparatory

to taking it to the dining-room, and in the centre stood the colonel’s

boots which had been missing that day. In each boot she found a roasted

duck had been thrust, and over them the sweet sauce for pudding had been

poured.

The turkey was there, but it was garnished with cinders, and, in short,

a beautiful dinner was completely spoiled. At the sight of which poor

Mrs. B. fainted away. The colonel, soon afterwards making his appearance,

found his wife insensible, and his dinner ruined.

The above is a well-known story, and I could enumerate many more, but I

fear the reader’s patience is already well nigh exhausted.

From the law there is but little redress, for, when one imprisons

servants for punishment, the time, I was told, counts in the period of

their servitude. And if one takes the law into his own hand, by striking

the natives, a severe pecuniary penalty is, very properly, always

inflicted.

During my stay at Mauritius, my attention was called to the following

gross outrage committed under the British flag by an inhuman monster,

who, calling himself an Englishman, proceeds to distant parts of the

world, and, seizing unoffending natives in the most open manner, sells

them from under the British ensign into the most hopeless slavery.

In the month of August, 1857, the British barque “Sutton,” of Sydney, New

South Wales, under the command of Captain Joseph Wilson, called at Byron

Island, one of the King Mill group in the Pacific, and engaged William

Ferrier, an Englishman, who, with his family, had resided on that island

for more than sixteen years, as an interpreter, for the purpose, as

Captain Wilson stated, of enabling the barque “Sutton” to obtain a cargo

of cocoa-nuts from the neighbouring islands.

With Ferrier six of the natives of Byron Island were embarked on board

the “Sutton,” who formed the crew of his canoe; and the barque bore away

in search of cocoa-nuts—Captain Wilson agreeing to reland Ferrier and

his crew of natives on Byron Island as soon as he had effected his object

at the neighbouring islands.

At Perouse and Clarke Islands, Captain Wilson, with the assistance of the

interpreter Ferrier, induced sixty-five male natives to ship themselves

on board the “Sutton,” for the purpose of gathering cocoa-nuts, and with

the understanding that when he had accomplished this object the natives

would be relanded on the respective islands to which they belonged.

The King Mill group of islands are much frequented by whalers, more

especially those under the American flag. The natives are very peaceably

inclined towards Europeans; and these whaling vessels derive great

benefit from their crews being refreshed at these islands with supplies

of vegetables, fruit, &c., so necessary to prevent the fearful havoc

at times made among the men by the attacks of scurvy to which they are

subject, from their voyages being sometimes protracted even beyond three

years. It is, therefore, the policy of all shipmasters to treat the

natives on these islands with kindness, and hence the outrage which I am

now relating assumes even a more serious aspect than when merely viewing

it in an anti-slavery light.

Captain Joseph Wilson had heard of free labourers being in great demand

at the French island of Réunion; and, as the means by which this

description of labour was supplied from the province of Mozambique was

notorious, being styled everywhere “The French Slave-trade from Africa,”

he thought he would try his hand at it, and hit upon the above mode of

obtaining the raw material cheap. The reader will observe that he did not

overcrowd the ship—he only took sixty-five of the natives on board, for

the purpose of selling them; and to obtain a good price he was determined

to have them in good condition, and therefore gave them ample space

during their confinement on the long voyage he contemplated.

Having obtained his living cargo, he turned his face to the west in

search of a good market, and day and night the British barque “Sutton,”

with her cargo of slaves, was urged, under a press of canvas, to the

desired haven.

Captain Joseph Wilson, commanding the “Sutton,” was a bold man, for the

first land he made was the island of Mauritius; and he stood boldly for

the principal harbour in the island, viz., Port Louis; arrived off which

he hove-to, and waited for the shades of evening. I carefully searched

the list of all vessels boarded by the authorities of Port Louis in the

month of November, 1857, when the “Sutton” was off the harbour, but

her name does not appear in the list, showing that she did not come

sufficiently near to the entrance of the harbour to be visited by the

boarding officer. During the night on which the “Sutton” was hove-to off

Port Louis, Captain Wilson communicated with a mercantile house in that

town; and at dawn, the following day, he stood away for the neighbouring

French island of Réunion.

The British bark “Sutton,” which could not obtain a market for her living

cargo at Mauritius, with the English ensign flying at her peak, anchored

boldly off the island of Réunion, and sold her cargo at 40_l._ sterling

per head, realizing the sum of 2,600_l._

Captain Joseph Wilson also found a market for his vessel, and sold

the “Sutton” for 1,600_l._ sterling. Whether the ship was as much his

property as the natives of Byron Island whom he had stolen and sold,

I know not, but it appears that he left Réunion with 4,200_l._, and

repaired to Port Louis, Mauritius.

Captain Wilson was accompanied to the Mauritius by William Henry Meadows,

an American citizen, William Ferrier, and, I believe, four of the natives

forming the crew of Ferrier’s canoe.

Meadows, as far as I recollect, was the mate of the “Sutton,” and he was

obliged to appeal to the American consuls to make Captain Wilson provide

a passage for him and the four natives of Byron Island to Sydney. The

American consul refusing to interest himself for William Ferrier, who was

an Englishman, application was made to His Excellency the Governor of

Mauritius, to provide a passage for the unfortunate man to Sydney, from

which port it was expected the authorities would forward him to Byron

Island. The man Ferrier was at Port Louis during my stay there, and I saw

him on two occasions.

I have heard that a prosecution, instituted by the authorities at Sydney,

against Captain Joseph Wilson, of the late British barque “Sutton,”

failed, from some cause with which I am unacquainted, and that this

affair has caused much indignation at Sydney.

In the Mercantile Marine List there are four master-mariners holding

certificates under the name of Joseph Wilson; but having been informed

that there was no difficulty in identifying the person referred to as the

perpetrator of the above outrage, so degrading to our national character,

and that he was in England some months since, I did what I conceived was

my duty to the cause of humanity by dragging this thief to justice; and

if he has not received that punishment which he so richly deserves, it is

from no dereliction of duty on my part.

From the perusal of such a perfidious act it is a pleasant relief to

turn to that of one of the noblest deeds of the many which have been

performed by the mercantile marine of Great Britain. While at Port Louis

I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of Captain Castle, of the

“Sarah Sands;” and as my wife had seen that vessel on her first visit to

the United States, where she was gazed upon at that time as a prodigy of

marine construction, we made up a small party to visit the wreck of this

once noble ship.

We found her lying in the inner harbour; and, looking at her hull, one

would never expect to see the ruin which a view from the remaining

portions of her deck presented to the astonished spectators. This

vessel was bound with troops to India, and when about 200 miles off the

island of Mauritius she was reported to be on fire. Immediately the

usual measures for overcoming this frightful calamity were resorted

to by those on board. Large supplies of water were furnished from all

parts of the ship to destroy the destroyer; but it was found that the

fire was too powerful for the rival element, and that it was closely

adjoining a considerable portion of powder, which was stowed away in the

after-compartment of the vessel.

The cool commanding mind of Captain Castle was equal to the emergency;

and well did he prove himself deserving of the command of one of the

finest vessels in our mercantile navy. Order was maintained throughout;

and to the exertions of the noble crew of the “Sarah Sands,” led by their

gallant commander, and seconded by the admirable discipline of the troops

on board, the safety of all may unquestionably be attributed.

Finding that the raging element had obtained possession of the after-part

of the vessel, the boats were carefully lowered, and the ladies, women,

and children placed in them. An officer of the ship was despatched in

command of the boats, with orders to keep them at a distance—so that, if

the vessel blew up, those in the boats would be uninjured.

In the meanwhile, the most daring spirits on board, regardless of the

suffocating smoke and the scorching flames, boldly approached the powder,

and dragged it up through the raging element, package after package, to

be cast into the sea. Blackened and speechless, these brave men were

dragged up from the hold of the vessel by the ropes which they had

secured round their bodies before descending—although insensible from

the heat, still holding in their grasp the kegs of powder. These were

succeeded by others as daring, who, on being dragged on deck, were again

relieved by their predecessors, whose recovery was effected by dashing

water over them. While this fearful struggle of the most daring valour

with death was taking place, the hose were playing upon the raging fire,

and rafts were being constructed on each side of the ship, for the

purpose of saving at least a portion of the apparently doomed band.

The ship was built of iron, and fortunately in compartments. The fire had

arisen in the after-compartment, and the most incredible exertions were

made to confine it there. The decks were ripped up and sawed across to

prevent the fire spreading; further forward, across the deck, partitions

were formed of wet blankets, which, being deluged with water, prevented

the fire spreading. At last the fire, in spite of superhuman efforts,

obtained the upper hand; the flames soared high into the heavens, and as

they overcame all human efforts, the cry of anguish might be heard from

the passive spectators in the boats. Imploring voices asked for the boats

to approach the burning ship, in the hope of saving some loved ones among

that doomed band; but the young officer in command, even in that trying

hour, obeyed the orders which he had received from his chief, and kept

the boats at a safe distance.

At last those grown reckless by their former success in obtaining the

coveted kegs of powder had to be held forcibly back from flinging

themselves into the flames, in the hope of obtaining the few remaining

kegs, and thereby saving the ship from the impending destruction. In this

noble rivalry a quarter-master belonging to the crew, and a sergeant of

the regiment embarked, were the most conspicuous.

Some portion of the powder yet remained in the after-compartment, and

over it the flames enjoyed their dance of death; high up they soared,

licking the top-mast shrouds, and encircling the mizen-mast with ropes of

fire.

The boom, the gaff, the deck, all had disappeared, and ever and anon, as

the ship rolled from side to side, and the flames leaped to starboard or

to port, the iron beams which had formerly supported the decks were seen

of a fiery red, forming an awful lattice-work, through which the burning

element raged with its fearful roar. At last the beams began to bend

with their own weight, and the pressure of the sea on the sides of the

vessel. The rafts were rapidly building; but moments were felt by all as

days. Meanwhile the smoke rose dark and lowering into the heavens, making

the sky even look fiery, and forming a beacon far and near on the Indian

Ocean. From the foremast head the horizon was anxiously scanned, but no

telescope on board could bring to the eye the promised “sail of hope.”

The awful hour was fast approaching when life or death would be

pronounced for those on board that ship. The powder pent up in that fiery

cavern must soon ignite, and, bursting through the ship’s sides, let in

the sea either to save or engulph them.

At last the moment came—the explosion took place—and hearts which never

quailed before for an instant ceased to beat.

The mighty ship reeled and staggered like a drunken man; the waves

surged high and rushed upon her; the raging fire yelled and hissed, and

roared again. Then all was still—a cloud of steam marking where the

fire had been. That awful silence was broken by the captain’s voice

exclaiming:—“Thanks be to God, she’s saved!” But, before the fervent

“Amens” had reached him, again was heard his resolute tone of command to

“man the pumps!”

Again was hope deferred. The ship was sinking fast! It was perceptible

to all. Down—down—she was gradually settling—there was no mistaking the

feeling!

The excitement of another struggle with the element which had destroyed

the fire now took place. The pumps were manned, and buckets, tubs,

everything was used to bale out the water.

Captain Castle, always collected, soon found that one quarter was blown

out of the ship, while the stern and the other quarter still held

together. He rapidly formed a temporary breakwater of plank and canvas,

to keep out the body of the sea; then hooking relieving tackles on

the rudder outside of the ship (for the tiller and head of the rudder

were burnt away), he manœuvred his vessel, which was under steam, until

he got her in such a position that the injured portion of the vessel

was sheltered from the violence of the sea. He then built a temporary

bulkhead, and with the pumps going night and day, he brought the “Sarah

Sands,” without a compass, sextant, or chronometer, into Port Louis, a

distance of two hundred miles from that spot on the Indian Ocean where

this disaster originated.

The officers and their families lost everything; and indeed the ladies

landed at Mauritius in canvas dresses made by them out of the ship’s

stores. The hospitable reception afforded to all on board the “Sarah

Sands” by the people of Mauritius can never be forgotten by the grateful

recipients; while the memory of Captain Castle, his coolness and courage,

will be the theme of admiration wherever the name of the “Sarah Sands” is

heard. And yet—must I write it?—no reward has been conferred on him for

saving a regiment which afterwards did such gallant service in India,

and contributed to the saving of our Eastern Empire.

Travels in Eastern Africa, volume 2 (of 2) · 第 5 / 10 章