Departure from Kassala--Sheik Abu Sin--Rumours of Theodore's
Defeat by Tisso Gobazé--Arrival at Metemma--Weekly Market
--The Takruries at Drill--Their Foray into Abyssinia--Arrival
of Letters from Theodore.
On the afternoon of the 10th November we started for Kedaref. Our
route now lay in a more southerly direction. On the 13th we crossed
the Atbara, a tributary of the Nile, bringing to the father of
rivers the waters of Northern Abyssinia. On the 17th we entered
Sheik Abu Sin, the capital of the province of Kedaref. [Footnote:
From Kassala to Kedaref is about 120 miles.] Our cameleers belonged
to the Shukrie-Arabs. They are a semi-pastoral, semi-agricultural
tribe, and reside principally in the neighbourhood of and along the
course of the Atbara, or wander over the immense plains that extend
almost without limit from this river to the Nile. They are more
degenerated than the Beni-Amers, having mixed more with the Nubian
and other tribes that dwell around them. They speak an impure
Arabic. Many have retained the features and general appearance of
the original race, whilst others might be looked upon as half-castes,
and some can with difficulty be distinguished from the Nubians or
Takruries.
From Kassala to Kedaref we crossed interminable plains, covered
with high grass, speckled here and there with woods of mimosas, too
scanty to afford the slightest shade or protection during the fearful
heat of the mid-day sun. Here and there on the horizon appeared a
few isolated peaks; the Djbel Kassala, a few miles south of the
capital of Takka. Eastward, the Ela Hugel and the Abo-Gamel were
in sight for many days, whilst towards the west, lost almost in the
misty horizon, appeared in succession the outlines of Derkeda and
Kassamot.
The valley of the Atbara, luxuriant in vegetation, inhabited by all
varieties of the feathered tribe, visited by the huge thirsty
quadruped of the savannah, presented a spectacle so grand in its
savage beauty that we could with difficulty tear ourselves from its
shady groves; had it not been that "Forward" was our watchword, we
would, braving malaria, have spent a few days near its green and
fragrant banks.
Sheik Abu Sin is a large village; the houses are circular and built
of wood and covered with straw; A small hut belonging to the firm
of Paniotti, our host of Kassala, was placed at our disposal. We
shortly afterwards received the visit of a Greek merchant, who came
to consult me for a stiff joint brought on by a gun-shot wound. It
appears, that some years before, whilst riding a camel on an
elephant-hunting expedition, the gun, a large half-ounce bore, went
off by itself, he never knew how. All the bones of the fore-arm had
been smashed, the cicatrice of a dreadful flesh-wound showed what
sufferings he had undergone, and it was indeed a wonder for me that,
residing as he did in such a hot unhealthy climate, deprived of all
medical advice, he had not succumbed to the effects of the wound,
still more that he had been able to save the limb. I considered the
cure so extraordinary, that, as there was nothing to be done, I
advised him to leave well alone.
The governor also called upon us, and we returned his civility. Whilst
sipping our coffee with him and other grandees of the place, we were
told that Tisso Gobazé, one of the rebels, had beaten Theodore and
made him a prisoner. He said he believed the news to be correct, but
advised us to inquire into it on our arrival at Metemma, and should
we find it untrue, to return on our steps and on no account to enter
Abyssinia if Theodore was still the ruler. He then gave us some examples
of the Emperor's cruelty and treachery; but we did not put much credence
in his word, as we knew that of old a bad feeling existed between the
Abyssinian Christians and their Mussulman neighbours of the plain.
At Metemma that rumour was not even known; however, we had no choice,
and never thought one instant of anything else but of accomplishing the
mission intrusted to us, in face of all perils and dangers.
At Kedaref we were lucky enough to arrive on a market-day, consequently
had no difficulty in exchanging camels. That very evening we were
_en route_ again, still towards the south, but this time making
almost an angle with our former route, marching towards the rising
sun.
Between Sabderat and Kassala, between that town and the Gash, we
had for the first time seen some cultivation; but it was nothing
compared to the immense vista of cultivated fields, beginning a
day's journey from Sheik Abu Sin, and extending, almost without
interruption, throughout the provinces of Kedaref and Galabat.
Villages appeared in all directions, crowning every rounded hillock.
As we advanced, these eminences increased in size until they gave
place to hills and mountains, which ultimately blend with the
uninterrupted chain of high peaks forming the Abyssinian table-land,
now again, after so many days, rising before us.
We arrived at Metemma on the afternoon of the 21st of November. In
the absence of Sheik Jumma, the potentate of these regions, we were
received by his _alter ego_, who put one of the Imperial residences
--a wretched barn--at the disposal of the "great men from England."
If we deduct the seven days we were obliged to halt _en route_,
on account of the difficulty we had in obtaining camels, we performed
the whole journey between Massowah and Metemma, a distance of about
440 miles, in thirty days. Our journey on the whole was extremely
dreary and fatiguing. Apart from a few pretty spots, such as from
Ain to Haboob, the valleys of the Anseba and Atbara, and from Kedaref
to Galabat, we crossed only endless savannahs, saw not a human
being, not a hut, only now and then a few antelopes, or the tracks
of elephants, and heard no sound but the roar of wild beasts. Twice
our caravan was attacked by lions; unfortunately we did not see
them, as we were on both occasions riding ahead, but every night
we heard their awful roar, echoing like distant thunder in the still
nights of those silent prairies.
The heat of the day was at times really painful. In order that the
camels might start in time, our tents were packed early; sometimes
we would sit for hours waiting the good pleasure of the cameleers
under the scanty shade of a mimosa, vainly endeavouring to find in
its dwarfed foliage a relief from the burning rays of the sun. Night
after night, be it moonlight or starlight, on we went; the task was
before us, and duty urged us on to reach the land where our countrymen
were lingering in chains. Often in the saddle between three and,
four P.M., we have jogged along on our wearied mules until the
morning star had disappeared before the first rays of day. For
several days we had no water but the hot and filthy fluid we carried
in leathern skins; and even this nauseous decoction was so scanty
and precious, that we could not afford to soothe the sun-burnt skin
and refresh the exhausted frame by a timely ablution.
Notwithstanding the discomfort, inconveniences, nay, danger of
crossing the Soudan in that unhealthy season of the year, by care
and attention we reached Metemma without having had a single death
to lament. Several of the followers and native servants, even Mr.
Rassam, suffered more or less from fever. They all eventually
recovered, and when a few weeks later we started for Abyssinia, the
whole party was in better health than when we left the hot and
sultry shores of the Red Sea.
Metemma, the capital of Galabat, a province situated on the western
frontier of Abyssinia, is built in a large valley, about four miles
from the Atbara. A small rivulet runs at the foot of the village,
and separates Galabat from Abyssinia. On the Abyssinian side there
is a small village, inhabited by the few Abyssinian traders who
reside there during the winter months; at which period a large
traffic is carried on with the interior. The round, conical hut is
here again the abode of all classes the size and better state of
repair being the only visible difference between the dwelling of
the rich and that of his less fortunate neighbour. Sheik Jumma's
palaces are inferior to many of his subjects' huts, probably to
dispel the credited suspicion that he is rich, and that incalculable
treasures are buried under the ground. The huts put at our disposal
were, as I have already stated, his property; they are situated on
one of the small hills that overlook the town; the Sheik removes
there with his family during the rainy season, as it is in some
degree less unhealthy than the swampy ground below.
Though following the creed of the Medina prophet, the capital of
Galabat cannot boast of a single mosque.
The inhabitants of Galabat are Takruries, a negro race from Darfur.
They number about 10,000; of these 2,000 reside in the capital, the
remainder in the many villages that arise in all directions amidst
cultivated fields and green meadows. The whole province is well
adapted for agricultural purposes. Small rounded hillocks, separated
by sloping valleys watered by many rivulets, impart a pleasing
aspect to the whole district; and if it was not for the extreme
unhealthiness of the place, it is possible to understand the selection
made by the Darfur pilgrims: though it is no compliment paid to
their own native land. The pious Darfur Mussulmans, on their way
to Mecca, observed this favoured spot, and fancied it realized,
_minus_ the houris, some of the inferior Paradises of Mohammed.
At last some remained; Metemma was built; other pilgrims followed
the example; and soon, though a lazy and indolent race, owing to
the extreme fertility of the soil, they formed a prosperous colony.
At the outset they acknowledged the Sultan of Darfur, paid him
tribute, and were governed by one of his officers. But the Galabat
colony soon found out that the Egyptians and Abyssinians were more
to be feared than their distant sovereign, who could neither protect
nor injure them; accordingly, they quietly murdered the viceroy
from Darfur, and elected a Sheik from amongst themselves. The ruler
at once made terms with both Egyptians and Abyssinians, and tendered
yearly tribute to both. This wise but servile policy met with the
best results; the colony increased and prospered, trade flourished,
Abyssinians and Egyptians flocked to the well-supplied market, and
the tribute of a few thousand dollars to each party fell lightly
on the now rich and cunning negroes.
From November to May, on Mondays and Tuesdays, the market is held
on a large open space in the centre of the village. Abyssinians
bring horses, mules, cattle, and honey; the Egyptian merchant
displays in his stall, calico, shirtings, hardware, and gaudy prints.
Arabs and Takruries arrive with camels laden with cotton and grain.
The market-place is now a crowded and exciting scene: horses are
tried by half-naked jockeys, who, with whip and heel, drive at a
furious pace their diminutive steeds, reckless as to the limbs and
lives of the venturous spectators.
Here cotton is being loaded on donkeys, and will soon find its way
to Tschelga and Gondar; here some fat Nubian girls, redolent with
rancid castor-oil flowing from their woolly heads down their necks
and shoulders, issue grinning from a Frank's store, holding in their
hands red and yellow kerchiefs, the long-desired object of their
dreams. The whole scene is lively; good-humour prevails; and though
the noise is fearful, the bargaining being long and clamorous, and
every one is armed with lance or club, still, all is peaceful: no
blood is ever shed on these occasions but that of a few cows, killed
for the many visitors from the high country who enjoy their raw
beefsteak under the cool shadow of the willows that border the
stream.
On Friday the scene changes. On that day the whole community is
seized with martial ardour. Having no mosque, the Takruries devote
their holy day to ceremonies more suited to their taste, and resort
to the market-place, now transformed into a parade-ground, a few
to drill, the greater number to admire. Some Takruries, having
served for a time in the Egyptian army, returned to their adopted
land full of the value of disciplined troops, and of the superiority
of muskets over lances and sticks. They prevailed on their countrymen
to form a regiment on the model of "master's," Old muskets were
purchased, and Sheik Jumma had the glory to see during his reign
the 1st, or Jumma's Own, rise to existence. A more ludicrous sight
could not, I believe, be witnessed. About a hundred flat-nosed,
woolly, grinning negroes march around the parade-ground in Indian
file, out of step, for about ten minutes. Line is then formed, but
not being as yet well up to the proper value of the words of command,
half face on one side, half on the other. Still the crowd admires;
white teeth are displayed from ear to ear. The yellow-eyed monsters
now feel confident that with such support nothing is impossible,
and no sooner is "stand at ease" proclaimed, than the spectators
rush, forward to admire more closely, and to congratulate, the
future heroes of Metemma.
Sheik Jumma is an ugly specimen of an ugly race: he is about sixty
years of age, tall and lank, with a wrinkled face, very black,
having a few grey patches on the chin, and the owner of a nose so
flat that it requires time to see that he has one at all; He is
generally drunk, and spends the greater part of the year carrying
the tribute either to the Abyssinian Lion, or to his other master
the Pasha of Khartoum. A few days after our arrival at Metemma he
returned from Abyssinia, and politely paid us a visit, accompanied
by a motley and howling train of followers. We returned his call;
but he had got drunk in the interval, and was at least uncivil, if
not positively rude.
During our stay we had occasion to witness the great yearly, festival
of the re-election of the Sheik. Early in the morning a crowd of
Takruries came pouring in from all directions, armed with sticks
or spears, a few mounted, the majority on foot, all howling and
screeching (I believe they call it singing), so that before even
the dust raised by a new party could be seen, the ear was deafened
by their clamour. Every Takrurie warrior--that is, every one who
can howl and carry a bludgeon or lance--is entitled to a vote; for
this privilege he pays a dollar. The polling consists in counting
the money, and the amount decides the ruler's fate. The re-elected
Sheik (such was the result of the election we witnessed) killed
cows, supplied jowaree loaves, and, above all, immense jars of
merissa (a kind of sour toast-and-water, intoxicating for all that),
and feasted for two days the whole body of the electors. It is
difficult to say which of the two is out of pocket, the elector or
the Sheik. There is no doubt that every Takrurie will eat and drink
to the full amount of his dollar; is content with paying his homage,
and wishes to have the worth of his money. Bribery is unknown! The
drums, the sign of royalty, have been silent for three days (during
the interregnum), but the cows are no sooner slaughtered and the
merissa handed round by black maidens or fair Galla slaves, than
their monotonous beat is again heard; soon to be drowned under the
howling chorus of two thousand intoxicated negroes.
The following morning the whole assembled "by orders" on a place
some distance from the town. Arranged in a large crescent, Sheik
Jamma addressed his warriors in these words: "We are a strong and
mighty people, unequalled in horsemanship and in the use of the
club and the spear!" Moreover, (said he), they had increased their
power by adopting the system of fire-arms, the real strength of the
Turks. He was all-confident that the very sight of their gunmen
would strike terror into every neighbouring tribe. He ended by
proposing a raid into Abyssinia, and said: "We will take cows,
slaves, horses, and mules, and please our master the great Theodore
by plundering his enemy Tisso Gobazé!" A wild _feu-de-joie_,
and a terrible roar, from the excited crowd, informed the old Sheik
that his proposal was accepted. That very same afternoon they started
on their expedition, and probably surprised some peaceful district,
as they returned after a few days, driving before them several
thousand heads of cattle.
Metemma, from May to November, is very unhealthy. The principal
diseases are continued, remittent, and intermittent fevers, diarrhoea,
and dysentery. The Takruries are a tough race, and resist well the
noxious influences of the climate; but not so the Abyssinian, or
the white man: the first is almost certain to die should he attempt
to spend the dreaded months in the malarious low country, the second
most probably will suffer much in health, but resist for a season
or two. During our stay, I had many demands for medicine. Large,
cake-like spleens were greatly reduced by local applications of
tincture of iodine, and the internal administration of small doses
of quinine and iodine of potassium. Chronic diarrhoea yielded readily
to a few doses of castor oil, followed by opium and tannic acid.
Acute and chronic dysentery was treated by ipecacuanha, followed
by astringents. One of my patients was the son and heir of the
Sheik. He had been suffering for the last two years from chronic
dysentery; and although under my care he entirely recovered, his
ungrateful father never even thanked me for all my trouble. Simple
ophthalmia, skin diseases, and glandular swellings were also common.
The Takruries have no knowledge whatever of medicine: charms are
here, as throughout the Soudan, the great remedy. They are also
used as preventatives to keep off the evil eye, bad spirits, and
genii of different sorts; for these reasons almost every individual--
nay, cattle, mules, and horses, are covered with amulets of all
shapes and sizes.
The day after our arrival at Metemma we despatched two messengers
with a letter to the Emperor Theodore, to inform him that we had
reached Metemma, the place he had himself fixed upon, and were only
waiting for his permission to proceed to his presence. We feared
that the fickle despot might change his mind, and leave us for an
unlimited period in the unhealthy Galabat. More than a month had
elapsed, and we were giving way to despair, when, to our great joy,
on the 25th of December (1865), the messengers we had despatched
on our arrival, also those sent from Massowah at the time of our
departure, returned, bringing for us civil and courteous answers
from his Majesty. Sheik Jumma was also ordered by his Abyssinian
master to treat us well, and to provide us with camels up to Wochnee.
At that village, Theodore informed us, we should be met by an escort
and by some of his officers, by whom arrangements would be made to
convey our luggage to the imperial camp.