The figures given below are based on ½″ lumber, except the backs of wren
and bluebird houses and the base and roof of martin house, which should
be ⅞″ thick.
_Back_ _Sides_ _Front_ _Floor_ _Roof_ _Entrance_ _Air Hole_
Bluebird 4″×10″ 5″×7″ 4″×5″ 4″×5½″ 5″×8″ 1½″ dia. ½″ dia. in
house and 7″ 4½″×8″ in middle peak of
gable front gable
Wren 4″×14″ 5″×7″ 4″×7″ 3½″×4″ 7″×8″ 1⅛″ dia. ½″ dia. in
house and 12″ sloping 5″ above each peak
floor
For picture of bluebird house, see inside back cover; for picture of
wren house, see page 39. The sides of both houses are nailed to the
edges of the back in such a way as to let the back project below, about
one inch.
In the bluebird house, the upper edges of the sides should be beveled to
fit the slope of the roof. The front of this house is hinged upon a
one-inch brad driven in, on each side, a half-inch above the lower
corner. To enable the front to swing downward, as shown on page 116, the
floor must be fastened in place three-fourths of an inch above the lower
edge of the sides. Before nailing on the roof, see that the front swings
easily. Bore half-inch holes in the projecting back below and above, for
wire to run through to strap the house in place. Add a perch of doweling
a half inch below the entrance. See figure on inside back cover.
The wren house is also provided with a swinging front, hinged like that
of the bluebird house, but with the brads placed one inch from the upper
corners so that it opens up instead of down. This is shown on page 116.
The upper part of the back of wren house is planed flush with the
sloping sides, and the roof is planed flush with the back. The air holes
on each side will also serve for wire to run through. Other holes for
this purpose should be bored in the projecting back at the bottom. Again
see figure on page 116. Add a perch of doweling a half inch below the
entrance.
[Illustration: THE FINISHED MARTIN HOUSE]
[Illustration: RAISING THE MARTIN HOUSE]
The holes in the backs should be about an inch apart on the surface and
should be bored at an angle, so as to lead the wire snugly around the
trunk. When the houses are put up for use, the front of each is securely
closed by means of a screw eye on the side, which can be easily removed
for the purpose of cleaning. Bluebird and wren houses should be in shade
or part shade, about ten feet above ground, and mounted so that the
upper part tilts slightly forward.
_Base_ _Box for _Rooms_ _Entrances_ _Pole_ _2 Posts_
lower
story_
Martin 30″×30″ 7″×20″×20″ 6″×6″×7″ 2½″ dia. 4″×6″×16′ 4″×6″×11′
house 1″ above
floor
In the center of the base a hole 4″×6″ is cut to fit the pole upon which
the house is to be mounted. Two cleats are nailed underneath the base,
crosswise of the boards and plumb with either side of the 4″×6″ hole.
The box for the lower story is partitioned into nine compartments, each
6″ square and 7″ high. This gives eight outside rooms and a central
space through which the pole may go. In order to provide ventilation
near the ceiling, make the partitions only 6½″ high. They need not be
nailed, but may be dovetailed, like partitions in an egg box.
To make the house so it can be easily opened, for cleaning or to rout
the English sparrows, fasten the box for lower story in the center of
the base by means of screw eyes and hooks, two on a side. The projecting
part of the base will form a 5″-wide porch all around, a convenience
which martins greatly enjoy. The ceiling is allowed to project 2½″ at
the front and back to form porches for the upper rooms. Add a gable
ample enough to afford at each end a room 6″ wide and 7″ high. In the
upper end of the partition between these two rooms, cut a hole 2½″ in
diameter. The reason for this is stated on page 88, paragraph 2. The
slanting roof should project 2½″ all around. Finish it with a flat top
as shown in the first cut on page 128. Add posts 1″×1″×4″ on which to
staple wire or doweling as perches for the martins. Fasten these little
posts to the flat roof by screws from beneath, before nailing it to the
house.
Now fit the pole to the central space and screw it securely to the
cleats under the base, and the pole with the house on it is ready to be
set up. The martin house should be at least fifty feet away from a tree
or building, and fifteen feet above ground.
To mount the martin house so it can be easily let down to be cleaned or
to rout the English sparrows, place the two posts four inches apart and
have them at least six feet high. Set the pole holding the martin house
between them and secure it with two bolts about four feet apart, the
lower bolt being 1½ feet from the ground. To lower the house, remove the
lower bolt and tilt the pole, as shown in the second cut on page 128.
The posts should be creosoted and sunk five feet in cement.
This cut shows a block and tackle being used to tilt the pole. A further
precaution against having the house crash to the ground would be a
shears made of rough two by four scantling, which can be obtained in
twelve-foot lengths. In making the shears, bolt the scantlings two feet
from the top with an ordinary half-inch carriage bolt, and tie the
bottoms so the legs will not spread too much.