thereof, is the fair parish church called Allhallows Barking, which
standeth in a large, but sometime far larger, cemetery or churchyard; on
the north side whereof was sometime built a fair chapel, founded by King
Richard I.; some have written that his heart was buried there under the
high altar. This chapel was confirmed and augmented by King Edward I.
Edward IV. gave license to his cousin John, Earl of Worcester, to found
there a brotherhood for a master and brethren; and he gave to the custos
of that fraternity, which was Sir John Scot, knight, Thomas Colte,
John Tate, and John Croke, the priory of Totingbecke, and advowson
of the parish church of Streatham, in the county of Surrey, with all
the members and appurtenances, and a part of the priory of Okeborn in
Wiltshire, both priors aliens, and appointed it to be called the king’s
chapel or chantry, _In capella Beatæ Mariæ de Barking_. King Richard
III. new built and founded therein a college of priests, etc. Hamond de
Lega was buried in that chapel. Robert Tate, mayor of London, 1488,[134]
and other, were there buried. This chapel and college were suppressed
and pulled down in the year 1548, the 2nd of King Edward VI. The ground
was employed as a garden-plot during the reigns of King Edward, Queen
Mary, and part of Queen Elizabeth, till at length a large strong frame
of timber and brick was set thereon, and employed as a store-house of
merchants’ goods brought from the sea by Sir William Winter, etc.
Monuments in the parish church of Allhallows Barking, not defaced, are
these:--Sir Thomas Studinham, of Norwich diocess, knight, 1469; Thomas
Gilbart, draper and merchant of the staple, 1483; John Bolt, merchant
of the staple, 1459; Sir John Stile, knight, draper, 1500. William
Thinne, esq., one of the clerks of the Green cloth, and master of the
household to King Henry VIII., 1546; Humfrey Monmouth, draper, one of
the sheriffs, 1535; Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, beheaded 1546; Sir
Richard Devereux, son and heir to the Lord Ferrers of Chartley; Richard
Browne, esq. 1546; Philip Dennis, esq. 1556; Andrew Evenger, salter;
William Robinson, mercer, alderman, 1552; William Armorer, cloth-worker,
esquire, governor of the pages of honour, or master of the heance men,
servant to Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Queen Mary, buried 1560. Besides
which there be divers tombs without inscription. John Crolys and Thomas
Pike, citizens of London, founded a chantry there 1388.
By the west end of this parish church and chapel, lieth Sidon lane,
now corruptly called Sything lane, from Tower street up north to
Hart street. In this Sidon lane divers fair and large houses are
built, namely, one by Sir John Allen, sometime mayor of London, and
of council unto King Henry VIII.; Sir Francis Walsingham, knight,
principal secretary to the queen’s majesty that now is, was lodged
there, and so was the Earl of Essex, etc. At the north-west corner of
this lane standeth a proper parish church of St. Olave, which church,
together with some houses adjoining, as also others over against it
in Hart street, are of the said Tower street ward. Monuments in this
parish church of St. Olave be these:--Richard Cely and Robert Cely,
fellmongers, principal builders and benefactors of this church; Dame
Johan, wife to Sir John Zouch, 1439; John Clarenciaulx, king of arms,
1427; Thomas Sawle; Sir Richard Haddon, mercer, mayor 1512; Thomas
Burnell, mercer, 1548; Thomas Morley, gentleman, 1566; Sir John
Radcliffe, knight, 1568; and Dame Anne his wife, 1585; Chapone, a
Florentine gentleman, 1582; Sir Hamond Vaughan, knight; George Stoddard,
merchant; etc.
Then have ye out of Tower street, also on the north side, one other
lane, called Marte lane, which runneth up towards the north, and is
for the most part of this Tower street ward; which lane is about the
third quarter thereof divided from Aldgate ward, by a chain to be drawn
athwart the said lane, above the west end of Hart street. Cokedon hall,
sometime at the south-west end of Marte lane, I read of.[135]
A third lane out of Tower street, on the north side, is called Mincheon
lane, so called of tenements there sometime pertaining to the Minchuns
or nuns of St. Helen’s in Bishopsgate street. This lane is all of the
said ward, except the corner house towards Fenchurch street. In this
lane of old time dwelt divers strangers born of Genoa and those parts;
these were commonly called galley men, as men that came up in the
galleys brought up wines and other merchandises, which they landed in
Thames street, at a place called Galley key; they had a certain coin
of silver amongst themselves, which were halfpence of Genoa, and were
called Galley halfpence; these halfpence were forbidden in the 13th of
Henry IV., and again by parliament in the 4th of Henry V. It was, that
if any person bring into this realm halfpence, suskinges, or dodkins, he
should be punished as a thief; and he that taketh or payeth such money
shall leese a hundred shillings, whereof the king shall have the one
half, and he that will sue the other half. Notwithstanding, in my youth,
I have seen them pass current, but with some difficulty, for that the
English halfpence were then, though not so broad, somewhat thicker and
stronger.
The Clothworkers’ hall is in this lane. Then at the west end of Tower
street have ye a little turning towards the north to a fair house
sometime belonging to one named Griste, for he dwelt there in the year
1449. And Jack Cade, captain of the rebels in Kent, being by him in this
his house feasted, when he had dined, like an unkind guest, robbed him
of all that was there to be found worth the carriage. Next to this is
one other fair house, sometime built by Angell Dune, grocer, alderman of
London, since possessed by Sir John Champneis, alderman, and mayor of
London. He built in this house a high tower of brick, the first that I
ever heard of in any private man’s house, to overlook his neighbours in
this city. But this delight of his eye was punished with blindness some
years before his death. Since that time. Sir Percevall Hart, a jolly
courtier, and knight-harbinger to the queen, was lodged there, etc.
From this house, somewhat west, is the parish church of St. Margaret’s
Pattens; to the which church and house, on the north side, and as far
over against on the south, stretcheth the farthest west part of this
ward.
And, therefore, to begin again at the east end of Tower street, on
the south side, have ye Beare lane, wherein are many fair houses, and
runneth down to Thames street. The next is Sporiar lane, of old time
so called, but since and of later time named Water lane, because it
runneth down to the water gate by the Custom house in Thames street.
Then is there Hart lane for Harpe lane, which likewise runneth down
into Thames street. In this Hart lane is the Bakers’ hall, sometime the
dwelling-house of John Chichley, chamberlain of London, who was son
to William Chichley, alderman of London, brother to William Chichley,
archdeacon of Canterburie, nephew to Robert Chichley, mayor of London,
and to Henry Chichley, archbishop of Canterburie. This John Chichley,
saith John Leland, had twenty-four children. Sir Thomas Kirrioll, of
Kent, after he had been long prisoner in France, married Elizabeth, one
of the daughters of this Chichley, by whom he had this Chichley’s house.
This Elizabeth was secondly married to Sir Ralfe Ashton, knight-marshal,
and thirdly, to Sir John Burchier, uncle to the late Burchier, Earl of
Essex, but she never had child. Edward Poynings made part with Burchier
and Elizabeth, to have Ostenhanger in Kent, after their death, and
entered into it, they living.
In Tower street, between Hart lane and Church lane, was a quadrant
called Galley row, because galley men dwelt there. Then have ye two
lanes out of Tower street, both called Church lanes, because one runneth
down by the east end of St. Dunstan’s church, and the other by the west
end of the same; out of the west lane turneth another lane west towards
St. Marie Hill, and is called Fowle lane, which is for the most part in
Tower street ward.
This church of St. Dunstone is called, in the east, for difference from
one other of the same name in the west; it is a fair and large church
of an ancient building, and within a large churchyard; it hath a great
parish of many rich merchants, and other occupiers of divers trades,
namely salters and ironmongers.
The monuments in that church be these:--In the choir, John Kenington,
parson, there buried 1374; William Islip, parson, 1382; John Kryoll,
esq., brother to Thomas Kryoll, 1400; Nicholas Bond, Thomas Barry,
merchant, 1445; Robert Shelly, esq., 1420; Robert Pepper, grocer, 1445;
John Norwich, grocer, 1390; Alice Brome, wife to John Coventry, sometime
mayor of London, 1433; William Isaack, draper, alderman, 1508; Edward
Skales, merchant, 1521; John Ricroft, esq., sergeant of the larder to
Henry VII. and Henry VIII., 1532; Edwaters, esq., sergeant-at-arms,
1558; Sir Bartholomew James, draper, mayor 1479, buried under a fair
monument with his lady; Ralfe Greenway, grocer, alderman, put under the
stone of Robert Pepper, 1559; Thomas Bledlow, one of the sheriffs 1472;
James Bacon, fishmonger, sheriff, 1573; Sir Richard Champion, draper,
mayor 1568; Henry Herdson, skinner, alderman, 1555; Sir James Garnado,
knight; William Hariot, draper, mayor 1481, buried in a fair chapel by
him built, 1517; John Tate, son to Sir John Tate, in the same chapel in
the north wall; Sir Christopher Draper, ironmonger, mayor 1566, buried
1580. And many other worshipful personages besides, whose monuments are
altogether defaced.
Now for the two Church lanes, they meeting on the south side of this
church and church yard, do join in one, and running down to the Thames
street, the same is called St. Dunstan’s hill, at the lower end whereof
the said Thames street towards the west on both sides almost to Belin’s
gate, but towards the east up to the water gate, by the bulwark of the
Tower, is all of Tower street ward. In this street, on the Thames side,
are divers large landing-places called wharfs or keys, for craneage up
of wares and merchandise, as also for shipping of wares from thence to
be transported. These wharfs and keys commonly bear the names of their
owners, and are therefore changeable. I read, in the 26th of Henry VI.,
that in the parish of St. Dunstone in the east, a tenement, called
Passeke’s wharf, and another called Horner’s key, in Thames street,
were granted to William Harindon, esq. I read also, that in the 6th of
Richard II., John Churchman, grocer, for the quiet of merchants, did
newly build a certain house upon the key, called Wool wharf, in the
Tower street ward, in the parish of Allhallows Barking, betwixt the
tenement of Paule Salisberrie on the east part, and the lane called the
water gate on the west, to serve for tronage, or weighing of wools in
the port of London; whereupon the king granted that during the life of
the said John, the aforesaid tronage should be held and kept in the said
house, with easements there for the balances and weights, and a counting
place for the customer, controllers, clerks, and other officers of the
said tronage, together with ingress and egress to and from the same,
even as was had in other places, where the said tronage was wont to be
kept, and that the king should pay yearly to the said John during his
life forty shillings at the terms of St. Michael and Easter, by even
portions, by the hands of his customer, without any other payment to the
said John, as in the indenture thereof more at large appeareth.
Near unto this Customer’s key towards the east, is the said water gate,
and west from it Porter’s key, then Galley key, where the gallies were
used to unlade and land their merchandises and wares; and that part of
Thames street was therefore of some called Galley row, but more commonly
Petty Wales.
On the north side, as well as on the south of this Thames street, are
many fair houses large for stowage, built for merchants; but towards
the east end thereof, namely, over against Galley key, Wool key, and the
Custom house, there have been of old time some large buildings of stone,
the ruins whereof do yet remain, but the first builders and owners of
them are worn out of memory, wherefore the common people affirm Julius
Cæsar to be the builder thereof, as also of the Tower itself. But
thereof I have spoken already. Some are of another opinion, and that a
more likely, that this great stone building was sometime the lodging
appointed for the princes of Wales, when they repaired to this city, and
that, therefore, the street in that part is called Petty Wales, which
name remaineth there most commonly until this day, even as where the
kings of Scotland were used to be lodged betwixt Charing cross and White
hall, it is likewise called Scotland, and where the earls of Britons
were lodged without Aldersgate, the street is called Britain street, etc.
The said building might of old time pertain to the princes of Wales, as
is aforesaid, but is since turned to other use.
It is before noted of Galley key, that the galleys of Italie, and
other parts, did there discharge their wines and merchandises brought
to this city. It is like, therefore, that the merchants and owners
procured the place to build upon for their lodgings and storehouses, as
the merchants of the Haunce of Almaine were licensed to have a house,
called _Gilda Teutonicorum_, the Guild hall of the Germans. Also the
merchants of Burdeaux were licensed to build at the Vintry, strongly
with stone, as may be yet seen, and seemeth old, though often repaired;
much more cause have these buildings in Petty Wales, though as lately
built, and partly of the like stone brought from Caen in Normandie, to
seem old, which for many years, to wit, since the galleys left their
course of landing there,[136] hath fallen to ruin, and been let out for
stabling of horses, to tipplers of beer, and such like; amongst others,
one Mother Mampudding (as they termed her) for many years kept this
house, or a great part thereof, for victualling; and it seemeth that
the builders of the hall of this house were shipwrights, and not house
carpenters; for the frame thereof (being but low) is raised of certain
principal posts of main timber, fixed deep in the ground, without any
groundsell, boarded close round about on the inside, having none other
wall from the ground to the roof, those boards not exceeding the length
of a clap board, about an inch thick, every board ledging over other as
in a ship or galley, nailed with ship nails called rough and clench,
to wit, rough nails with broad round heads, and clenched on the other
side with square plates of iron. The roof of this hall is also wrought
of the like board, and nailed with rough and clench, and seemeth as it
were a galley, the keel turned upwards; and I observed that no worm or
rottenness is seen to have entered either board or timber of that hall,
and therefore, in mine opinion, of no great antiquity.[137]
I read, in 44th of Edward III., that a hospital in the parish of Barking
church was founded by Robert Denton, chaplain, for the sustentation
of poor priests, and other both men and women, that were sick of the
frenzy, there to remain till they were perfectly whole, and restored
to good memory. Also I read, that in the 6th of Henry V. there was in
the Tower ward a messuage, or great house, called Cobham’s inn; and in
the 37th of Henry VI, a messuage in Thames street pertaining to Richard
Longvile, etc. Some of the ruins before spoken of may seem to be of the
foresaid hospital, belonging peradventure to some prior alien, and so
suppressed among the rest in the reign of Edward III. or Henry V., who
suppressed them all. Thus much for the bounds and antiquities of this
ward, wherein is noted the Tower of London, three parish churches, the
custom house, and two halls of companies, to wit, the clothworkers and
the bakers. This ward hath an alderman, his deputy, common councillors
eight, constables thirteen, scavengers twelve, wardmote men thirteen,
and a beadle; it is taxed to the fifteenth at six and twenty pounds.[138]
FOOTNOTES:
[131] Liber l. folio 40.
[132] Proclamation. W. Dunthorn.
[133] “And to Berewardes lane.”--_1st edition_, p. 95.
[134] “When he deceased, 1501.”--_Ibid._
[135] “Woodroffe lane towardes the Tower in this parish.”--_1st edition_
p. 97.
[136] “No gallies landed here in memorie of men living.”--_Stow._
[137] “But I leave every man to his own judgment, and pass to other
matters.”--_1st edition_, p. 101.
[138] “It is taxed to the fifteene at forty-six pounds, and accounted in
the Exchequer at forty-five pounds ten shillings.”--_1st edition_, p.
102.
ALDGATE WARD
The second ward within the wall, on the east part, is called Aldgate
ward, as taking name of the same gate. The principal street of this ward
beginneth at Aldgate, stretching west to sometime a fair well, where
now a pump is placed; from thence the way being divided into twain, the
first and principal street is called Aldgate street, runneth on the
south side to Lime street corner, and half that street down on the left
hand is also of that ward. In the mid way on that south side, betwixt
Aldgate and Lime street, is Hart horn alley, a way that goeth through
into Fenchurch street over against Northumberland house. Then have ye
the Bricklayers’ hall, and another alley called Sprinckle alley, now
named Sugarloafe alley, of the like sign. Then is there a fair house,
with divers tenements near adjoining, sometimes belonging to a late
dissolved priory, since possessed by Mistress Cornewallies, widow, and
her heirs, by gift of Henry VIII., in reward of fine puddings (as it
was commonly said) by her made, wherewith she had presented him. Such
was the princely liberality of those times. Of later time Sir Nicholas
Throgmorton, knight, was lodged there. Then, somewhat more west is
Belzettar’s lane, so called of the first builder and owner thereof, now
corruptly called Billitar lane. Betwixt this Belzettar lane and Lime
street was of later time a frame of three fair houses, set up in the
year 1590, in place where before was a large garden plot, enclosed from
the high street with a brick wall, which wall being taken down, and the
ground dug deep for cellarage, there was found right under the said
brick wall another wall of stone, with a gate arched of stone, and gates
of timber to be closed in the midst towards the street; the timber of
the gates was consumed, but the hinges of iron still remained on their
staples on both the sides. Moreover, in that wall were square windows,
with bars of iron on either side of the gate. This wall was under ground
about two fathoms deep, as I then esteemed it, and seemeth to be the
ruins of some houses burned in the reign of King Stephen, when the fire
began in the house of one Alewarde, near London stone, and consumed east
to Aldgate, whereby it appeareth how greatly the ground of this city
hath been in that place raised.
On the north side this principal street stretcheth to the west corner of
St. Andrewe’s church, and then the ward turneth towards the north by St.
Marie street, on the east side to St. Augustine’s church in the wall,
and so by Buries markes again, or about by the wall to Aldgate.
The second way from Aldgate, more towards the south, from the pump
aforesaid, is called Fenchurch street, and is of Aldgate ward till
ye come to Culver alley, on the west side of Ironmongers hall, where
sometime was a lane which went out of Fenchurch street to the middest of
Lime street, but this lane was stopped up for suspicion of thieves that
lurked there by night. Again to Aldgate out of the principal street,
even by the gate and wall of the city, runneth a lane south to Crowched
Friers, and then Woodroffe lane to the Tower hill, and out of this lane
west a street called Hart street, which of that ward stretched to Sydon
lane by St. Olave’s church. One other lane more west from Aldgate goeth
by Northumberland house toward the Crossed Friers; then have ye on the
same side the north end of Mart lane and Blanch Apleton, where that ward
endeth.
Thus much for the bounds; now for monuments, or places most ancient and
notable.
I am first to begin with the late dissolved priory of the Holy Trinity,
called Christ’s church, on the right hand within Aldgate. This priory
was founded by Matilda, queen, wife to Henry I., in the same place where
Siredus sometime began to erect a church in honour of the Cross and of
St. Marie Magdalen, of which the Dean and Chapter of Waltham were wont
to receive thirty shillings. The queen was to acquit her church thereof,
and in exchange gave unto them a mill. King Henry confirmed her gift.
This church was given to Norman, first canon regular in all England.
The said queen also gave unto the same church, and those that served
God therein, the plot of Aldgate, and the soke thereunto belonging,
with all customs so free as she had held the same, and twenty-five
pound blankes, which she had of the city of Excester, as appeareth by
her deed, wherein she nameth the house Christ’s church, and reporteth
Aldgate to be of her domains, which she granteth with two parts of
the rent of the city of Excester. Norman took upon him to be prior of
Christ’s church, in the year of Christ 1108, in the parishes of St. Mary
Magdalen, St. Michael, St. Katherine, and the Blessed Trinity, which
now was made but one parish of the Holy Trinity, and was in old time of
the Holy Cross or Holy Rood parish. The priory was built on a piece of
ground in the parish of St. Katherine towards Aldgate, which lieth in
length betwixt the King’s street, by the which men go towards Aldgate,
near to the chapel of St. Michael towards the north, and containeth in
length eighty-three ells, half, quarter, and half-quarter of the king’s
iron eln, and lieth in breadth, etc. The soke and ward of Aldgate was
then bounded as I have before showed. The queen was a means also that
the land and English Knighten Guild was given unto the prior Norman:
the honourable man, Geffrey de Glinton, was a great helper therein, and
obtained that the canons might enclose the way betwixt their church
and the wall of the city, etc. This priory, in process of time, became
a very fair and large church, rich in lands and ornaments, and passed
all the priories in the city of London or shire of Middlesex; the prior
whereof was an alderman of London, to wit, of Portsoken ward.
I read, that Eustacius, the eighth prior, about the year 1264, because
he would not deal with temporal matters, instituted Theobald Fitz
Ivonis, alderman of Portsoken ward under him, and that William Rising,
prior of Christ’s church, was sworn alderman of the said Portsoken ward
in the 1st of Richard II. These priors have sitten and ridden amongst
the aldermen of London, in livery like unto them, saving that his
habit was in shape of a spiritual person, as I myself have seen in my
childhood; at which time the prior kept a most bountiful house of meat
and drink, both for rich and poor, as well within the house as at the
gates, to all comers, according to their estates.
These were the monuments in this church:--Sir Robert Turke, and Dame
Alice his wife; John Tirell, esquire; Simon Kempe, esquire; James
Manthorpe, esquire; John Ascue, esquire; Thomas Fauset, of Scalset,
esquire; John Kempe, gentleman; Robert Chirwide, esquire; Sir John
Heningham, and Dame Isabel his wife; Dame Agnes, wife first to Sir
William Bardolph, and then to Sir Thomas Mortimer; John Ashfield,
esquire; Sir John Dedham, knight; Sir Ambrose Charcam; Joan, wife to
Thomas Nuck, gentleman; John Husse, esquire; John Beringham, esquire;
Thomas Goodwine, esquire; Ralph Walles, esquire; Dame Margaret, daughter
to Sir Ralph Chevie, wife to Sir John Barkeley, to Sir Thomas Barnes,
and to Sir W. Bursire; William Roofe; Simon Francis; John Breton,
esquire; Helling, esquire; John Malwen and his wife; Anthonie Wels, son
to John Wels; Nicholas de Avesey, and Margarie his wife; Anthonie, son
to John Milles; Baldwine, son to King Stephen, and Mathilde, daughter
to King Stephen, wife to the Earl of Meulan; Henry Fitzalwine, mayor of
London, 1213; Geffrey Mandevile, 1215; and many other. But to conclude
of this priory: King Henry VIII., minding to reward Sir Thomas Audley,
speaker of the parliament against Cardinal Wolsey, as ye may read in
Hall, sent for the prior, commending him for his hospitality, promised
him preferment, as a man worthy of a far greater dignity, which promise
surely he performed, and compounded with him, though in what sort I
never heard, so that the prior surrendered all that priory, with the
appurtenances, to the king, in the month of July, in the year 1531, the
23rd of the said king’s reign. The canons were sent to other houses of
the same order, and the priory, with the appurtenances, King Henry gave
to Sir Thomas Audley, newly knighted, and after made lord chancellor.