CHAPTER XLI

August 1, 1839.

This will be more a letter than a Journal, as I have skipped more than a

fortnight, partly because I have been obliged to give all my little

leisure to drawing for the fancy fair, and then, that I have had ten

days of the same ague I had in the plains, from the same

reason--constant rain and fog. It is a tiresome complaint while it

lasts, from the violence of the headache and pains in the bones, but I

do not think it does one much real harm, at least not up here. It

stopped only four days ago, and I feel quite well again. We are very

quiet just now. Rains and fogs the whole day, till towards five o'clock,

when it kindly holds up to allow us to go out for an hour and a half,

and then it kindly rains again so as to prevent anybody coming to

dinner. G. and I went yesterday to show F. a beautiful new walk we had

discovered; that is, we call it a walk, though there is nothing to walk

upon but a goat-path, but it leads to a beautiful hill which stands bolt

upright by itself, looking down on various little villages in the

valleys. The first time we went, the jonpaunees contrived to carry me

most part of the way, but this time what little path there had been was

washed away, and we had to walk with sticks in one hand and to cling to

the rocks with the other, and the jonpaunees crept along just under the

path to catch us if we slipped. I never saw anything so beautiful as it

was, the ground so green with all sorts of ferns, and covered with iris

and mountain geraniums, and such an amphitheatre of mountains all round,

with great white clouds in the valleys, just as if the mountains had let

their gowns slip off their shoulders. Our Bengalee servants, who turn

out in great numbers when we walk, evidently thought it a service of

great danger, particularly when one of my boys slipped down a little

waterfall, and looked, as G. said, in his red and gold, like a large

goldfish floundering about in the pool below. My old jemadar came and

gave me a regular scolding this morning, which he had evidently got up

with great care in his choicest English. 'Soobratta tell me, my lord and

my two ladies take very dangerous walk, so I just ask of ladyship's

favour to ask my lord not to order any more such walk. Ladyship not

strong constitution' (that is a long word they have picked up from the

native doctor, who always tells me so), 'and what for she walk when she

can be carried, and why go on bad road? I see our bheestie's

(water-carrier) cow last week tumble down hill, and she roll over and

over till she come _kill_ at the bottom, and if ladyship see that, she

never go dangerous walk again.' He walked off quite satisfied with

himself and his oratory, and I own, I think the roll and 'come kill' of

the bheestie's cow is pathetic and conclusive.

Tuesday, August 6.

I have had such a piece of _shawl_ luck; everybody's mind gets a shawl

twist in India, you must understand; and moreover we are all making up

our packets for England now.

This place is full of Cashmerees, and they never come further south than

Delhi, so this is our last shawl opportunity. Q. came into my room with

a magnificent black one, a regular fifty-guinea shawl, and said the

owner had told him to show it to me. I said it was very beautiful, but I

could not afford any more expensive shawls, and he said if I really

fancied it, he would try and beat the price down. I said no, but at the

same time asked, in a fatal fit of curiosity, what the price was, and he

said, 'Perhaps I can get it cheaper, but the man says you may have it

for 240 rupees.' (24_l._) Upon which I said with infinite

promptitude--'Oh, then, run for your life and pay him directly, before

anybody else sees him!' and Q. thought it advisable himself, for he said

some of the other Cashmerees were offering him more for it. The shawl

has been compared with three bought by Mrs. R. and Mrs. A. for fifty

guineas, and there is not a shade of difference; in fact, it is a

perfect beauty, quite a catch.

August 18.

I am uncommonly unhappy in my mind. My dear little flying squirrel, that

I had brought up to "man's estate" from three days old, died yesterday

of cholera. I never mean to witness the death of a pet again. To be

sure, Chance has lasted so many years that I have not had much practice,

but I am quite wretched about this poor little animal. He was so

coaxing, and though my doors and windows are never shut, and he had no

cage, he never thought of stirring out of my rooms. When I came home, he

used to stick his little head out from under the pillow and hold out his

paw for my hand and bite it all over; and when I was dressing, he always

sat on the glass, or on Wright's shoulder, with great black eyes like

Pamela's fixed on my hair, which he helped to arrange occasionally. When

G. came in the evening, he climbed up the arm-chair and sat on his

shoulder, apparently whispering to him; and though G. said the squirrel

was only pulling his ear, I am convinced he had more to do with public

affairs than people generally supposed. I never saw such a good little

thing or such a clean pet. He never ate anything but two or three

spoonfuls of tea, but yesterday he got hold of a pear the servants were

taking away from luncheon, and it killed him in a very few hours. My own

belief is that as _people_ in India are uncommonly dull, the surplus

share of sense is "served out" to the beasts, who are therefore

uncommonly clever, and their talents are developed by their owners

leading such solitary lives that they are able to devote more time to

the education of their animals.

'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India · 第 41 / 54 章