CHAPTER XXI.

_Journal continued._

Simla, Sunday, Sept. 2, 1838.

This is your birthday, and an excellent reason for starting again in my

Journal. I wish you a great many of them, dearest; only please to be

economical, and don't spend them lavishly, till I come home to be with

you.

We have not done much since my last Journal went. We had a meeting of

ladies to settle about the fancy sale, which was easily done, as before

they came I wrote a paper of proposals and they all read it, and said it

would do very well; and if we can only find anything to sell, I dare say

we shall sell it very well. It is to be held in a very pretty valley

called Annandale, and G. gives some silver prizes to be shot for by the

Ghoorkas, and M. is trying to get up some pony races. The only novelty I

suggested was to ask the wives of the uncovenanted service (the clerks

in public offices) to send contributions. This was rather a shock to the

aristocracy of Simla, and they did suggest that some of the wives were

very black. That I met by the argument that the black would not come off

on their works, and upon the whole it was considered that we should not

lose consequence, and might be saved trouble, by sending a printed paper

round to each of their houses. I have done a quantity of drawings, which

Mr. C. is to sell by auction. The rain still continues, but not so

unceasing as it was, and as it lets us get out and prevents our giving

balls, I think it a very nice time of year.

Wednesday, Sept. 5.

I have had Mr. D.'s June letter, which is always satisfactory, and is

one of those _gentlemanlike_ epistles (I don't mean _genteel_, but pithy

and to the point, and like a gentleman in contradistinction to a lady)

that make most eligible letters in these foreign parts. G. always opens

and reads Mr. D.'s letters to us before we see them, because he says he

gets so much news out of them. Rather cool! What do you think I ought to

do about it? Mr. D. and I might have secrets of vital importance, which

G. might let out--very unpleasant!

Friday, Sept. 7.

There was such a beautiful plate-chest to be raffled for at the 'Europe

shop' here--everything that life could require--silver tea-pot, cream,

sugar, forks, spoons, bottle-stands, cruets, &c., and all so pretty. W.

took two tickets, and I one, and there were only 26 tickets in

all--5_l._ each--so it is a great shame we have not won; but it was

thrown for yesterday, and Mr. C. has got it. I am glad, for he wanted

it, and is quite delighted.

There was a second prize, of a clock, which I could have _put up

with_--but did not get it; and a third, of a looking-glass, which nobody

wanted, and which Dr. D. won, and now he does not know what to do with

it. I advise him to bring it home some dark night, and throw it into the

valley behind his house. It may amuse the monkeys, who live there in

tribes, and can be of no other use.

No looking-glass in India has _much_ quicksilver, but this happens to

have none at all, except a few slight streaks here and there.

Saturday, Sept. 8.

You cannot imagine how beautiful our weather is, since a storm on

Wednesday, which cleared up the rains. Such nice clear air, and

altogether it feels English and exhilarating; and I think of you, and

Eden Farm, and the Temple Walk, and Crouch Oak Lane, and the blue

butterflies, and then the gravel-pit, and your reading 'Corinne' to me;

and then the later days of Eastcombe and our parties there, with G. V.

in his wonderful spirits, with all his wit, and all the charm about him;

and all this because the air is English. I _should_ like to go back to

childhood and youth again--there was great enjoyment in them.

Monday, Sept. 10.

We had a large congregation yesterday, and an excellent sermon from Mr.

Y., whose health, however, does not improve. I have made such a

collection of drawings for the fancy sale--_really_ very good. I am

sorry to say it, for it may sound vain, perhaps is vain; but I persist

in thinking them good drawings, and I cannot help thinking you would buy

some of them.

Mrs. Chance, with her twins, came to visit Chance _père_ to-day. He was

very polite to his wife, but could not endure the young puppies. I am

not surprised, for they are nearly quite black, with a little white, but

no tan, and with vulgar, greasy, smooth hair. However, they are only

ten days old, and babies, as you know, alter rapidly.

Thursday, Sept. 13.

We had such a nice expedition yesterday afternoon; just the sort of

thing your children would have enjoyed (only you never let them come out

with me _now_). It was to see two waterfalls, and in Simla, where water

is bought at great expense, we make much of a few pailfulls that fall

gratis over a rock. The valley is about 3,000 feet below our house, very

Swiss, and quite different from the hills--such large cedars, and here

and there a little Swiss-looking cottage, with one door and no window. I

always wonder _how_ ignorant of the ways of the world the inhabitants of

these solitary valleys can be, and how such ignorance feels. No 'crafty

boys,' no fashions, no politics, and, I suppose, a primitive religion

that satisfies them. There are temples of great age in all these places.

I imagine half these people must be a sort of vulgar Adams and Eves--not

so refined, but nearly as innocent.

F. and I were carried down, and rode part of the way up, and when there,

we clambered about some wonderful places, and I have not laughed so much

for ages. There was a cave to go to, and a smooth rock to descend. G.

and Captain J. got me safely to the bottom of the rock, and there we

stopped to see Major U., Dr. D., and F. follow. They got half-way,

clinging on, by a chain of the servants, to a tree at the top, and then

they could get no further. The waterfall made such a noise, that we

could not make them hear that there was nothing, in fact, to come for;

and their hesitations, and scramblings back again, very nearly killed

me. Luckily there was nobody left below to laugh at my return. The

jonpaunees made steps of themselves, and I ran up a flight of

jonpaunee-stairs very decorously. We are all so stiff to-day, not having

walked so much for three years. 'My bones, girl, my bones!' (see 'Romeo

and Juliet.') I wonder whether old Mrs. Davenport has died since we left

England. What an actress she was!

Monday, Sept. 17.

There! I skip three entire days, for my whole soul is in England, and

this letter must go to-day. This morning there came a knock at the door

at seven, and Rosina brought me your July letters, with E.'s enclosed. I

had scarcely digested those, when the Calcutta dâk came in, bringing to

me your June despatch, which ought to have come with the other June

letters exactly one fortnight ago--but never mind! How pleasant it is to

have them both! The Coronation seems to have gone off wonderfully well,

and must have been a beautiful sight. I suppose we shall have our

English papers in two days: I am insatiable for more details. To be

sure, if that little Queen's head were quite turned, and she became the

most affected and consequential of beings, it would not be surprising. A

young creature of nineteen to be the occasion of such a splendid

ceremony, and to have brought together all the great people from all the

great nations to do her honour, is enough to intoxicate her. She must

have great good sense to be so entirely guiltless of _nonsense_.

_Letter to the Countess of B._

Simla, Sept. 8, 1838.

My dearest Sister,--There was no letter from you by the last overland

(June). Odd! Can you account for it? Perhaps you did not write, which

might be one reason (though a very insufficient one) why the letter did

not come, but still it was a pity.

I say no more, being held back by the circumstance that you will have

been a whole month without a line from us. Our letters of June, July,

and August, all leave Bombay this blessed day--Saturday, Sept. 8. Such

an accumulation of twaddle! _We_ are not to blame; _we_ have written--I

wish everybody could say as much: but, however, as Falstaff says, when

he had wrongfully accused Dame Quickly of picking his pocket, 'Hostess,

I forgive thee--go. Look to thy servants: cherish thy guests; thou shalt

find me tractable to any honest reason. Thou seest I am pacified.'

It is such a nice day to-day. The rains ended last Wednesday. After five

days of an even down-pour, there came a storm of wind that might have

changed the places of some of the little hills, if they had been

addicted to hopping, and which devastated my little garden, which

happens to be on the windy side of the house; but since that, we have

not had a drop of rain. The snowy range has appeared again after a fog

of three months. The hills are all blue and green and covered with

flowers, and there is a sharp, clear air that is perfectly exhilarating.

I have felt nothing like it, I mean nothing so English, since I was on

the terrace at Eastcombe, except perhaps the week we were at the Cape.

It is a shame of the storm to have twisted my one honeysuckle into a

wisp of dead leaves; to have laid low our only double dahlia, and to

have broken off a branch of _the_ lavender bush of Simla. All these

treasures G. deposited in my little garden at the back of the house, and

this is the result of his unguarded confidence. The dahlia was of that

rhubarb and magnesia colour which makes you hear the spoon _grit_

against the cup as you look at it. Still it was the only double dahlia

in India; but that will revive again. The honeysuckle is a mortifying

business. Colonel V. has another, and he used to come crowing and

stuttering here about this 'cu-cu-cu-curious plant' of his which

suddenly took a dwarfish turn and stopped growing; whereas mine had

reached the top of the house, and old V. used to call once a week to

look at it. Now, I don't mind the loss of Colonel V.'s visits, but I did

like to make him envious of my honeysuckle. We are all dreadfully within

sight of travelling again, but there are still six weeks of repose, so

that I am as deaf as a post when the word '_tent_' is mentioned. Still,

the subject of provisions, and marches, and agents and magistrates, must

be alluded to.

Don't you think it would be worth my while to buy a pot of paint, out of

my own allowance, from the Simla 'Europe shop,' and have the acorns and

oak leaves painted _out_ of the lining of my tent? The lining is buff,

with sprigs of oak leaves, and there is an occasional mistake in the

pattern, which distracts me; and there is such an association of dust

and bore and bad health with those acorns, that I do not think I _can_

encounter them again. We are to leave this on November 5. I mention

that openly, because if Guy Faux wishes to keep his '_day_,' it would,

perhaps, be better and more humane to blow up people who are going into

camp, than people who live in houses.

Sept. 13.

I must put this up to-night. This is the first time I have had an

evening quite alone, in an English fashion, since we came to India--not

even a stray aide-de-camp about. They are all gone to the last of the

Simla theatricals. I had seen four out of the five plays, so I excused

myself, as I am drawing all day for the fancy fair, and wanted to write

to you and M. and C. to-night. I was in a horrid fright. ---- was going

to stay with me, but with great tact he walked off to his own house; and

so now, if there were but a carriage-road and a knocker, and a servant

in red inexpressibles to announce you, I really should take it kindly if

you would drive up, give a double knock, and be announced.

As it is, I am very comfortable. I don't object; but the window is open

to the verandah, and I see the little green Ghoorkas (the most hideous

little soldiers in the world) mounting guard, with all sorts of

outlandish noises. The door is, of course, open to the passage--Indian

doors can't shut--and my four hirkarus are sitting cross-legged, wrapped

up in shawls, playing at a sort of draughts that they call 'pucheese.'

There is not a human being in the house who understands a word of

English: the Europeans are all gone to the play, and the head servants

go to their own homes after dinner. I have a great mind to call out

'fire!' and 'thieves!' as loud as I can, to see what will come of

it--it will only break up the game of pucheese; and the hirkarus will

think I have gone mad, and respect me accordingly--they have a great

regard for madness. I really think it awful! I wish I could speak

Hindustani--I am sure I must want something, only I cannot ask for it. I

will tell them to seal this letter, and if they tear it up I shall have

made a sad waste of my evening.

Good-bye, dearest sister. Please always write by the overland post.

'Up the Country': Letters Written to Her Sister from the Upper Provinces of India · 第 21 / 54 章