"Venio nunc ad voluptates agricolarum, quibus ego" (like the

Famine Commissioners) "incredibiliter delector."

[November 8, 1879.]

I missed two people at the Delhi Assemblage of 1877. All the gram-fed

secretaries and most of the alcoholic chiefs were there; but the

famine-haunted villager and the delirium-shattered, opium-eating

Chinaman, who had to pay the bill, were not present.

I cannot understand why Viceroys and English newspapers call the

Indian cultivator a "riot." He never amounts to a riot if you treat

him properly. He may be a disorderly crowd sometimes; but that is only

when you embody him in a police force or convert him into cavalry. The

atomic disembodied villager has no notion of rioting, _ça-ira_

singing, or any of the tomfooleries of revolution. These pastimes are

for men who are both idle and frivolous. When our villager wants to

realise a political idea, he dies of famine. This has about it a

certain air of seriousness. A man will not die of famine unless he be

in earnest.

Lord Bacon's apothegm was that _Eating maketh a full man_; and it

would be better to give the starving cultivator Bacon than the report

of that Commission (which we cannot name without tears and laughter)

which goes to work on the assumption that _writing maketh a full

man_--that to write over a certain area of paper will fill the

collapsed cuticles of the agricultural class throughout India.

When [Sir Richard Temple] first started the idea of holding famines, I

proposed that he should illustrate his project by stopping the pay and

allowances of the Government of India for a month. But he did not

listen to my proposal. People seldom listen to my proposals; and

sometimes I think that this accounts for my constitutional melancholy.

You will ask, "What has all this talk of food and famine to do with

the villager?" I reply, "Everything." Famine is the horizon of the

Indian villager; insufficient food is the foreground. And this is the

more extraordinary since the villager is surrounded by a dreamland of

plenty. Everywhere you see fields flooded deep with millet and wheat.

The village and its old trees have to climb on to a knoll to keep

their feet out of the glorious poppy and the luscious sugar-cane.

Sumptuous cream-coloured bullocks move sleepily about with an air of

luxurious sloth; and sleek Brahmans utter their lazy prayers while

bathing languidly in the water and sunshine of the tank. Even the

buffaloes have nothing to do but float the livelong day deeply

immersed in the bulrushes. Everything is steeped in repose. The bees

murmur their idylls among the flowers; the doves moan their amorous

complaints from the shady leafage of pipal trees; out of the cool

recesses of wells the idle cooing of the pigeons ascends into the

summer-laden air; the rainbow-fed chameleon slumbers on the branch;

the enamelled beetle on the leaf; the little fish in the sparkling

depths below; the radiant kingfisher, tremulous as sunlight, in

mid-air; and the peacock, with furled glories, on the temple tower of

the silent gods. Amid this easeful and luscious splendour the villager

labours and starves.

Reams of hiccoughing platitudes lodged in the pigeon-holes of the Home

Office by all the gentlemen clerks and gentlemen farmers of the world

cannot mend this. While the Indian villager has to maintain the

glorious phantasmagoria of an imperial policy, while he has to support

legions of scarlet soldiers, golden chuprassies, purple politicals,

and green commissions, he must remain the hunger-stricken, overdriven

phantom he is.

While the eagle of Thought rides the tempest in scorn,

Who cares if the lightning is burning the corn?

If Old England is going to maintain her throne and her swagger in our

vast Orient she ought to pay up like a--man, I was going to say; for,

according to the old Sanscrit proverb, "You can get nothing for

nothing, and deuced little for a halfpenny." These unpaid-for glories

bring nothing but shame.

But even the poor Indian cultivator has his joys beneath the clouds of

Revenue Boards and Famine Commissions. If we look closely at his life

we may see a soft glory resting upon it. I am not Mr. Caird, and I do

not intend entering into the technical details of agriculture--"_Quid

de utilitate loquar stercorandi?_"--but I would say something of that

sweetness which a close communion with earth and heaven must shed upon

the silence of lonely labour in the fields. God is ever with the

cultivator in all the manifold sights and sounds of this marvellous

world of His. In that mysterious temple of the Dawn, in which we of

noisy mess-rooms, heated courts, and dusty offices are infrequent

worshippers, the peasant is a priest. There he offers up his hopes and

fears for rain and sunshine; there he listens to the anthems of birds

we rarely hear, and interprets auguries that for us have little

meaning.

The beast of prey skulking back to his lair, the stag quenching his

thirst ere retiring to the depths of the forest, the wedge of wild

fowl flying with trumpet notes to some distant lake, the vulture

hastening in heavy flight to the carrion that night has provided, the

crane flapping to the shallows, and the jackal shuffling along to his

shelter in the nullah, have each and all their portent to the

initiated eye. Day, with its fierce glories, brings the throbbing

silence of intense life, and under flickering shade, amid the soft

pulsations of Nature, the cultivator lives his daydream. What there is

of squalor, and drudgery, and carking care in his life melts into a

brief oblivion, and he is a man in the presence of his God with the

holy stillness of Nature brooding over him. With lengthening shadows

comes labour and a re-awaking. The air is once more full of all sweet

sounds, from the fine whistle of the kite, sailing with supreme

dominion through the azure depths of air, to the stir and buzzing

chatter of little birds and crickets among the leaves and grass. The

egret has resumed his fishing in the tank where the rain is stored for

the poppy and sugarcane fields, the sand-pipers bustle along the

margin, or wheel in little silvery clouds over the bright waters, the

gloomy cormorant sits alert on the stump of a dead date-tree, the

little black divers hurry in and out of the weeds, and ever and anon

shoot under the water in hot quest of some tiny fish; the whole

machinery of life and death is in full play, and our villager shouts

to his patient oxen and lives his life. Then gradual darkness, and

food with homely joys, a little talk, a little tobacco, a few sad

songs, and kindly sleep.

The villages are of immemorial antiquity; their names, their

traditions, their hereditary offices have come down out of the dim

past through countless generations. History sweeps over them with her

trampling armies and her conquerors, her changing dynasties and her

shifting laws--sweeps over them and leaves them unchanged.

The village is self-contained. It is a complete organism, protoplastic

it may be, with the chlorophyll of age colouring its institutions, but

none the less a perfect, living entity. It has within itself

everything that its existence demands, and it has no ambition. The

torment of frustrated hope and of supersession is unknown in the

village. We who are always striving to roll our prospects and our

office boxes up the hill to Simla may learn a lesson here:

Sisyphus in vita quoque nobis ante oculos est

Qui petere a populo fasces sævasque secures

Imbibit et semper victus tristisque recedit.

Nam petere imperium quod inanest nec datur umquam,

Atque in eo semper durum sufferre laborem,

Hoc est adverse nixantem trudere monte

Saxum quod tamen e summojam vertice rusum

Volvitur et plani raptim petit sequora campi.

In this idyllic existence, in which, as I have said, there is no

ambition, several other ills are also wanting. There is, for instance,

no News in the village. The village is without the pale of

intelligence. This must indeed be bliss. Just fancy, dear Vanity, a

state of existence in which there are no politics, no discoveries, no

travels, no speculations, no Garnet Wolseleys, no Gladstones, no

Captain Careys, no Sarah Bernhardts! If there be a heaven upon earth,

it is surely here. Here no Press Commissioner sits on the hillside

croaking dreary translations from the St. Petersburg press; here no

_Pioneer_ sings catches with Sir John Strachey in Council. But here

the lark sings in heaven for evermore, the sweet corn grows below, and

the villager, amid these quiet joys with which the earth fills her

lap, dreams his low life.--ALI BABA, K.C.B.

No. XV

THE OLD COLONEL

[Illustration: THE OLD COLONEL--"Ripening for pension."]

"Kwaihaipeglaoandjeldikaro"--_Rigmarole Veda._

[November 15, 1879.]

The old Indian Colonel ripening for pension on the shelf of General

Duty is an object at once pitiful and ludicrous. His profession has

ebbed away from him, and he lies a melancholy derelict on the shore,

with sails flapping idly against the mast and meaningless pennants

streaming in the wind.

He has forgotten nearly everything he ever learnt of military duty,

and what he has not forgotten has been changed. It is as much as he

can do to keep up with the most advanced thoughts of the Horse Guards

on buttons and gold lace. Yet he is still employed sometimes to turn

out a guard, or to swear that "the Service is going," &c.; and though

he has lost his nerve for riding, he has still a good seat on a

boot-lace committee.

He is a very methodical old man. He rises at an early hour, strolls

down to the club on the Mall--perhaps the Wheler Club, perhaps some

other--has his tea, newspaper, and gossip there, and then back to his

small bungalow, [where he turns out his servants for swearing parade.

Each one gets it pretty hot; and then breakfast]. After breakfast he

arrays himself for the day in some nondescript white uniform, and with

a forage cap stuck gaily on one side of his head, a cheroot in his

mouth, and a large white umbrella in his hand, he again sallies forth

to the Club. An old horse is led behind him.

Now the serious business of life again begins--to get through the day.

There are six newspapers to read, twelve pegs to drink,

four-and-twenty Madras cheroots to smoke, there is kindly tiffin to

linger over, forty winks afterwards, a game of billiards, the band on

the Mall, dinner, and over all, incessant chatter, chatter, old

scandal, old jokes, and old stories. Everyone likes the old Colonel,

of course. Everyone says, "Here comes poor old Smith; what an infernal

bore he is!" "Hulloa, Colonel, how are you? glad to see you! what's

the news? how's exchange?"

The old Colonel is not avaricious, but he saves money. He cannot help

it. He has no tastes and he draws very large pay. His mind, therefore,

broods over questions relating to the investment of money, the

depreciation of silver, and the saving effected by purchasing things

at co-operative stores. He never really solves any problem suggested

by these topics. His mind is not prehensile like the tail of the

Apollo Bundar; everything eludes its grasp, so its pursuits are

terminable. The old Colonel's cerebral caloric burns with a feeble

flicker, like that of Madras secretariats, and never consumes a

subject. The same theme is always fresh fuel. You might say the same

thing to him every morning, at the same hour till the crack of doom,

and he would never recollect that he had heard your remark before.

This certainly must give a freshness to life and render eternity

possible.

The old Colonel is not naturally an indolent man, but the prominent

fact about him is that he has nothing to do. If you gave him a

sun-dial to take care of, or a rain-gauge to watch, or a secret to

keep, he would be quite delighted. I once asked Smith to keep a secret

of mine, and the poor old fellow was so much afraid of losing it that

in a few hours he had got everybody in the station helping him to keep

it. It always surprises me that men with so much time on their hands

do not become Political Agents.

Sometimes our old Colonel gets into the flagitious habit of writing

for the newspapers. He talks himself into thinking that he possesses a

grievance, so he puts together a fasciculus of lop-sided sentences,

gets the ideas set straight by the Doctor, the spelling refurbished

by the Padré, and fires off the product to the _Delhi Gazette_

or the _Himalayan Chronicle_. Then days of feverish excitement

supervene, hope alternating with fear. Will it appear? Will the

Commander-in-Chief be offended? Will the Government of India be angry?

What will the Service say?

The old Colonel is always rather suspicious of the great cocked-hats

at head-quarters. He knows that to maintain an air of activity they

must still be changing something or abolishing something, and he is

always afraid that they will change or abolish him. But how could they

change the old Colonel? In a regiment he would be like Alice in

Wonderland; on the Staff he would be like old wine in a new bottle.

They might make him a K.C.B., it is true; but he does not belong to

the Simla Band of Hope, and stars must not be allowed to shoot madly

from their sphere. As to abolishing the old Colonel, this too presents

its difficulties, for Sir Norman Henry and all the celebrated

cocked-hats at home and abroad look upon the Indian Staff Corps as

Pygmalion looked on his Venus. They dote on its lifeless charms, and

(figuratively) love to clasp it in their foolish arms. [Now the old

Colonel is the trunk of this Frankenstein--to change the scene. So we

must not abolish the old Colonel.]

It is better to dress him up in an old red coat, and strap him on to

an old sword with a brass scabbard, that he may stand up on high

ceremonials and drink the health of the good Queen for whom he has

lived bravely through sunshine and stormy weather, in defiance of

epidemics, retiring schemes and the Army Medical Department. It is

good to ask him to place his old knees under your hospitable board,

and to fill him with wholesome wine, while he decants the mellow

stories of an Anglo-India that is speedily dissolving from view.

The old Colonel has no harm in him; his scandal blows upon the

grandmothers of people that have passed away, and his little

improprieties are such as might illustrate a sermon of the present

day. [A rabbit might play with him if there were no chutni lying

about.]

But you must never speak to him as if his sun were setting. He is as

hopeful as a two-year-old. Every Gazette thrills him with vague

expectations and alarms. If he found himself in orders for a Brigade

he would be less surprised than anyone in the Army. He never ceases to

hope that something may turn up--that something tangible may issue

from the circumambient world of conjecture. But nothing will ever turn

up for our poor old Colonel till his poor old toes turn up to the

daisies. This change only, which we harshly call "Death," will steal

over his prospects; this new slide only will be slipped into the magic

lantern of his existence, accompanied by funeral drums and slow

marching.

Soon we shall hardly be able to decipher his name and age on the

crumbling gravestone among the weeds of our horrible station

cemetery--but what matters it?

"For his bones are dust,

And his sword is rust,

And his soul is with the saints, we trust."

ALI BABA, K.C.B.

No. XVI

THE CIVIL SURGEON

"Throw physic to the dogs, I'll none of it."

[November 22, 1879.]

Perhaps you would hardly guess from his appearance and ways that he

was a surgeon and a medicine-man. He certainly does not smell of

lavender or peppermint, or display fine and curious linen, or tread

softly like a cat. Contrariwise.

He smells of tobacco, and wears flannel underclothing. His step is

heavy. He is a gross, big cow-buffalo sort of man, with a tangled

growth of beard. His ranting voice and loud familiar manner amount to

an outrage. He laughs like a camel, with deep bubbling noises. Thick

corduroy breeches and gaiters swaddle his shapeless legs, and he rides

a coarse-bred Waler mare.

I pray the gods that he may never be required to operate upon my eyes,

or intestines, or any other delicate organ--that he may never be

required to trephine my skull, or remove the roof of my mouth.

Of course he is a very good fellow. He walks straight into your

drawing-room with a pipe in his mouth, bellowing out your name. No

servant announces his arrival. He tramples in and crushes himself into

a chair, without removing his hat, or performing any other high

ceremonial. He has been riding in the sun, and is in a state of

profuse perspiration; you will have to bring him round with the

national beverage of Anglo-India, a brandy-and-soda.

Now he will enter upon your case. "Well, you're looking very blooming;

what the devil is the matter with you? Eh? Eh? Want a trip to the

hills? Eh? Eh? How is the bay pony? Eh? Have you seen Smith's new

filly? Eh?"

This is very cheerful and reassuring if you are a healthy man with

some large conspicuous disease--a broken rib, cholera, or toothache;

but if you are a fine, delicately-made man, pregnant with poetry as

the egg of the nightingale is pregnant with music, and throbbing with

an exquisite nervous sensibility, perhaps languishing under some vague

and occult disease, of which you are only conscious in moments of

intense introspection, this mode of approaching the diagnosis is apt

to give your system a shock.

Otherwise it may be bracing, like the inclement north wind. But,

speaking for myself, it has proved most ruinous and disastrous. Since

I have known the Doctor my constitution has broken up. I am a wreck.

There is hardly a single drug in the whole pharmacopoeia that I can

take with any pleasure, and I have entirely lost sight of a most

interesting and curious complaint.

You see, dear Vanity, that I don't mince matters. I take our Doctor as

I find him, rough and allopathic; but I am sure he might be improved

in the course of two or three generations. We may leave this, however,

to Nature and the Army Medical Department. Reform is not my business.

I have no proposals to offer that will accelerate the progress of the

Doctor towards a higher type.

Happily his surgical and medicinal functions claim only a portion of

his time. He is in charge of the district gaol, a large and

comfortable retreat for criminals. Here he is admirable. To some eight

or nine hundred murderers, robbers, and inferior delinquents he plays

the part of _maître d'hôtel_ with infinite success. In the whole

country side you will not find a community so well bathed, dressed,

exercised, fed and lodged as that over which the Doctor presides. You

observe on every face a quiet, Quakerish air of contentment. Every

inmate of the gaol seems to think that he has now found a haven of

rest.

If the sea-horse on the ocean

Own no dear domestic cave,

Yet he slumbers without motion

On the still and halcyon wave;

If on rainy days the loafer

Gamble when he cannot roam,

The police will help him so far

As to find him here a home.

This is indeed a quiet refuge for world-wearied men; a sanctuary

undisturbed by the fears of the weak or the passions of the strong.

All reasonable wants are gratified here; nothing is hoped for any

more. The poor burglar burdened with unsaleable "grab" and the

reproaches of a venal world sorrowfully seeks an asylum here. He

brings nothing in his hand; he seeks nothing but rest. He whispers

through the key-hole--

Nil cupientium

Nudus castra peto.

Look at this prisoner slumbering peacefully beside his _huqqa_ under

the suggestive bottle tree (there is something touching in his

selecting the shade of a _bottle_ tree: Horace clearly had no _bottle_

tree; or he would never have lain under a strawberry (and cream)

tree). You can see that he has been softly nurtured. What a sleek,

sturdy fellow he is! He is a covenanted servant here, having passed an

examination in gang robbery accompanied by violence and prevarication.

He cannot be discharged under a long term of years. Uncovenanted

pilferers, in for a week, regard him with respect and envy. And

certainly his lot is enviable; he has no cares, no anxieties. Famine

and the depreciation of silver are nothing to him. Rain or sunshine,

he lives in plenty. His days are spent in an innocent round of duties,

relieved by sleep and contemplation of [Greek: to on]. In the long

heats of summer he whiles away the time with carpet-making; between

the showers of autumn he digs, like our first parents, in the Doctor's

garden; and in winter, as there is no billiard-table, he takes a turn

on the treadmill with his mates. Perhaps, as he does so, he recites

Charles Lamb's Pindaric ode:--

Great mill!

That by thy motion proper

(No thanks to wind or sail, or toiling rill)

Grinding that stubborn-corn, the human will,

Turn'st out men's consciences,

That were begrimed before, as clean and sweet

As flour from purest wheat,

Into thy hopper.

Yet sometimes a murmur rises like a summer zephyr even from the soft

lap of luxury and ease. Even the hardened criminal, dandled on the

knee of a patriarchal Government, will sometimes complain and try to

give the Doctor trouble. But the Doctor has a specific--a brief

incantation that allays every species of inflammatory discontent.

"Look here, my man! If I hear any more of this infernal nonsense, I'll

turn you out of the gaol neck and crop." This is a threat that never

fails to produce the desired effect. To be expelled from gaol and

driven, like Cain, into the rude and wicked world, a wanderer, an

outcast--this would indeed be a cruel ban. Before such a presentiment

the well-ordered mind of the criminal recoils with horror.

The Civil Surgeon is also a rain doctor, and takes charge of the

Imperial gauge. If a pint more or a pint less than usual falls, he at

once telegraphs this priceless gossip to the Press Commissioner,

Oracle Grotto, Delphi, Elysium. This is one of our precautions to

guard against famine. Mr. Caird is the other.

[I was once in a very small station where our Civil Surgeon was an

Eurasian. He was a pompous little fellow, but a capital doctor,

gaoler, and metereologist.

"Omnis Aristippum decint, color et status, et res."

We liked him so much that we all got ill; crime increased, the gaol

filled, and no one ever passed the rain-gauge without either emptying

it or pouring in a brandy-and-soda. With women and children he was a

great favourite; for he had not become brutalised by familiarity with

suffering in hospitals. His heart was still tender, his voice soft,

and he had a gentle way with his hands. I never knew anyone who was so

unwilling to inflict pain; yet he was not unnerved when it had to be

done. But, poor little physician! he was not able to cure himself when

fever laid her hot hand on him. He tried to go on with his work and

live it down; but the recuperative forces of Nature were weak within

him, and he died. "The good die first, and those whose hearts are dry

as summer dust burn to the socket." Our cow-buffalo doctor is still

alive, I fear.]--ALI BABA, K.C.B.

No. XVII

THE SHIKARRY

[November 29, 1879.]

I have come out to spend a day in the jungle with him, to see him play

on his own stage. His little flock of white tents has flown many a

march to meet me, and have now alighted at this accessible spot near a

poor hamlet on the verge of cultivation. I feel that I have only to

yield myself for a few days to its hospitable importunities and it

will waft me away to profound forest depths, to the awful penetralia

of the bison and the tiger. Even here everything is strange to me; the

common native has become a Bheel, the sparrowhawk an eagle, the grass

of the field a vast, reedy growth in which an elephant becomes a mere

field mouse. Out of the leaves come strange bird-notes, a strange

silence broods over us; it is broken by strange rustlings and cries;

it closes over us again strangely. Nature swoons in its glory of

sunshine and weird music; it has put forth its powers in colossal

timber and howling beasts of prey; it faints amid little wild flowers,

fanned by breezes and butterflies.

My heart beats in strange anapæsts. This dream world of leaf and bird

stirs the blood with a strange enchantment. The Spirit of Nature

touches us with her caduceus:--

Twenty-One Days in India, or, the Tour Of Sir Ali Baba K.C.B.; and, the Teapot Series · 第 4 / 10 段