two ounces; Spring Water, an ounce and a half; melt the Wax and
Spermaceti together in the Oil of Almonds, in a glazed earthen pipkin,
over hot ashes, or in a vapour-bath; pour the solution into a marble
mortar, and stir it about with a wooden pestle, till it grow cold, and
seem quite smooth; then mix the Water gradually, and keep stirring,
till the whole is incorporated. This pomatum becomes extremely white
and light by the agitation, and very much resembles cream, from its
similitude to which it has obtained its name.
This pomatum is an excellent cosmetic, and renders the skin supple and
smooth. Some add a little Balm of Gilead to heighten its virtue; and
it is sometimes scented, by using Rose-water or Orange-flower Water in
the preparation, instead of Spring-water, or with a few drops of any
Essence, as fancy directs. It is also very good to prevent marks in
the face from the Small-pox; in which last case, a little powder of
Saffron, or some desiccative powder, such as Flowers of Zinc or French
Chalk, is usually added. Keep it for use in a large gallypot tied over
with a bladder.
184. _Cucumber Pomatum._
Take Hog's Lard, a pound; ripe Melons, and Cucumbers, of each three
pounds, Verjuice, half a pint; two pippins pared, and a pint of Cow's
Milk. Slice the Melons, Cucumbers, and Apples, having first pared
them; bruise them in the Verjuice, and, together with the Milk and
Hog's Lard, put them into an alembic. Let them infuse in a vapour-bath
eight or ten hours; then squeeze out the Liquor through a straining
cloth while the mixture is hot, and expose it to the cold air, or set
it in a cool place to congeal. Afterwards pour off the watery part
that subsides, and wash it in several Waters, till the last remains
perfectly clear. Melt the pomatum again in a vapour-bath several times,
to separate from it all its humid particles, and every extraneous
substance; otherwise it will soon grow rancid. Keep it for use in a
gallypot tied over with a bladder.
185. _Or,_
A more simple Cucumber Pomatum may be made by simmering together Hog's
Lard and pared Cucumbers cut in thin slices. With respect to the rest
of the process, follow the method laid down for preparing Lip-salve;
and keep this pomatum in the same manner as the former.
Both these pomatums are good Cosmetics; they soften the skin, and
preserve it cool and smooth.
186. _Lavender Pomatum._
Take two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard, ten pounds of Lavender
Flowers, and a quarter of a pound of Virgin's Wax; put two pounds of
picked Lavender Flowers into a proper vessel with the Hog's Lard, and
knead them with your hands into as uniform a paste as possible. Put
this mixture into a pewter, tin, or stone pot, and cork it tight;
place the vessel in a vapour-bath, and let it stand six hours; at the
expiration of which time, strain the mixture through a coarse linen
cloth, with the assistance of a press. Throw away the Lavender Flowers
as useless, pour the melted Lard back into the same pot, and add four
pounds of fresh Lavender Flowers. Stir the Lard and Flowers together
while the Lard is in a liquid state, in order to mix them thoroughly;
and repeat the former process. Continue to act in this manner till
the whole quantity of Lavender Flowers is used. Then set in a cool
place the pomatum separated from the Lavender Flowers, that it may
congeal; pour off the brown aqueous juice extracted from them; and wash
the Pomatum in several waters, stirring it with a wooden spatula, to
separate any remaining watery particles, till the last water remains
perfectly colourless. Then melt the Pomatum in a vapour-bath, and keep
it in that state about an hour, in a vessel well corked; leaving it
afterwards to congeal. Repeat this last operation till the aqueous
particles are entirely extracted when the Wax must be added, and the
Pomatum having been again melted, in a vapour-bath, in a vessel
closely corked, be suffered to congeal as before. When properly
prepared, fill it into gallypots, and tye the mouths over with wet
bladders, to prevent the air from penetrating.
This Pomatum is extremely fragrant, but is used only for dressing the
hair.
In the same manner are prepared, Orange-flower Pomatum, Jasmine
Pomatum, and all Pomatums made of odoriferous flowers. Common Pomatum
scented with the essences of any such flowers, may be used as a good
succedaneum.
187. LIP-SALVES.
Take three ounces of Oil of Almonds, three quarters of an ounce of
Spermaceti, and a quarter of an ounce of Virgin's Wax; melt them
together over a slow fire, mixing with them a little of the powder of
Alkanet Root. Keep stirring till cold, and then add a few drops of Oil
of Rhodium.
188. _Or,_
Take prepared Tutty and Oil of Eggs, of each equal parts; mix, and
apply them to the lips, after washing the latter with Barley or
Plantain Water.
189. _Or,_
Place over a chafing-dish of coals, in a glazed earthen pan, a quarter
of a pound of the best fresh Butter, and an ounce of Virgin's Wax;
melt them together; when thoroughly melted, throw in the Stones of
half a bunch of ripe Black Grapes, with some Alkanet Roots a little
bruised. Simmer these ingredient together for a quarter of an hour;
afterwards strain the mixture through a fine linen cloth; and pour
into your pomatum, which must be again set on the fire, a spoonful of
Orange-flower Water. Having let them simmer together a little while,
take the pan off the fire, and keep the pomatum stirring till it become
quite cold. It will keep a long while, and is a perfect cure for
chapped lips.
190. _A Yellow Lip-Salve._
Take Yellow Bee's Wax, two ounces and a half; Oil of Sweet Almonds, a
quarter of a pint; melt the Wax in the Oil, and let the mixture stand
till it become cold, when it acquires a pretty stiff consistence.
Scrape it into a marble mortar, and rub it with a wooden pestle, to
render it perfectly smooth. Keep it for use in a gallypot, closely
covered.
It is emollient and lenient; of course good for chaps in the lips,
hands, or nipples; and preserves the skin soft and smooth.
A Crust of Bread applied hot, is an efficacious remedy for pimples that
rise on the lips, in consequence of having drank out of a glass after
an uncleanly person.
191. _A Scarlet Lip-Salve._
Take Hog's Lard washed in Rose-water, half a pound; Red Roses and
Damask Roses bruised, a quarter of a pound; knead them together and let
them lie in that state two days. Then melt the Hog's Lard, and strain
it from the Roses. Add a fresh quantity of the latter, knead them in
the Hog's Lard, and let them lie together two days as before; then
gently simmer the mixture in a vapour-bath. Press out the Lard, and
keep it for use in the same manner as other Lip-salves.
192. _Or,_
Take an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds cold drawn, a drachm of fresh
Mutton Suet, and a little bruised Alkanet Root; simmer the whole
together. Instead of Oil of Sweet Almonds you may use Oil of Jasmine,
or the Oil of any other Flower, if you choose the Lip-salve should have
a fragrant scent.
193. _Or,_
Take Oil of Violets, and the expressed Juice of Mallows, of each an
ounce and a half; Goose Grease and Veal Marrow, of each a quarter of
an ounce; Gum Tragacanth, a drachm and a half; melt the whole over a
gentle fire.
194. _Or,_
Take half a pound of fresh Butter,
a quarter of a pound of Bee's Wax, four or five ounces of cleansed
Black Grapes, and about an ounce of bruised Alkanet Root; simmer them
together over a slow fire till the Wax is wholly dissolved, and the
mixture become of a bright red colour; then strain, and set it by for
use.
195. _Or,_
Take Deer or Goat's Suet, six ounces; Hog's Lard, four ounces: cut them
into little bits, and wash them five or six different times in White
Wine; then by hard pressure squeeze out every drop of the Wine. Melt
the fats in a new-glazed earthen pan with half an ounce of Orrice Roots
cut in thin slices, a grated Nutmeg, two or three Pippins pared and
sliced thin, a pint of Rose-water, an ounce of Bee's Wax, and half an
ounce of bruised Cloves. Simmer the whole over a slow fire about half
an hour; then strain through a linen cloth into a pan half full of
clean Water. Let the pomatum remain in the pan till cold, then wash it
well, and beat it in a marble mortar with two ounces of White Wax, till
they be thoroughly incorporated. Apply a little to the lips every night
going to rest; and rub it upon the hands every night and morning.
196. _White Pomatum._
Take an ounce of Florentine Orrice-root, half an ounce of Calamus
Aromaticus, and as much Gum Benjamin, a quarter of an ounce of
Rose-wood, and a quarter of an ounce of Cloves. Bruise the whole
into a gross powder, tie it up in a piece of linen, and simmer it
in a vapour-bath, with two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard well
washed; add a couple of Pippins pared and cut into small bits, four
ounces of Rose-water, and two ounces of Orange-flower Water. After
the ingredients have simmered together a little while, strain off the
Liquor gently, and let the Pomatum stand till cold; then put it by for
use in the same manner as other pomatums.
197. _Red Pomatum_
Is made by adding to the above more or less Alkanet Root bruised,
according to the depth of colour you would wish to impart. Simmer
the Pomatum and Alkanet together, stirring the mixture with a wooden
spatula, till the Pomatum is sufficiently tinged; then strain it from
the Roots, and set it by for use.
198. _A Pomatum to remove Redness, or
Pimples in the Face._
Steep in clear Water a pound of a Boar's Cheek till it becomes
tolerably white, drain it quite dry, and put it into a new-glazed
earthen pan with two or three pared Pippins quartered, an ounce and a
half of the four Cold Seeds bruised, and a slice of Veal about the size
of the palm of one's hand. Boil the whole together in a vapour-bath
for four hours, then with a strong cloth squeeze out your pomatum into
an earthen dish placed upon hot ashes; adding to it an ounce of White
Wax, and an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds. Stir the pomatum well with a
spatula till it become cold.
199. _A Pomatum for Wrinkles._
Take Juice of White Lily Roots and fine Honey, of each two ounces;
melted White Wax, an ounce; incorporate the whole together, and make a
pomatum. It should be applied every night, and not be wiped off till
the next morning.
200. _Another for the same Intention._
Take six new-laid Eggs, boil them hard, take out the Yolks, and fill
the cavities with Myrrh, and powdered Sugar Candy, of each equal parts.
Join the Whites together neatly, and set them on a plate before the
fire; mixing the Liquor that exsudes from them with an ounce of Hog's
Lard. This pomatum must be applied in the morning, and be suffered to
dry upon the skin, which is afterwards to be wiped with a clean fine
napkin.
201. _Or,_
Take half an ounce of Sallad Oil, an ounce of Oil of Tartar, half
an ounce of Mucilage of Quince Seeds, three quarters of an ounce of
Ceruss, thirty grains of Borax, and the same quantity of Sal Gem.
Stir the whole together for some time in a little earthen dish, with
a wooden spatula, and apply it in the same manner as the former
composition.
202. _Pomatum for a red or pimpled Face._
Take two pared Apples, Celery, and Fennel, of each a handful; and
Barley Meal, a quarter of an ounce. Simmer the whole together a
quarter of an hour in a gill of Rose-water; then add an ounce of fine
Barley Meal, the Whites of four new-laid Eggs, and an ounce of Deer's
Suet. Strain through a canvas bag into a dish that contains a little
Rose-water; wash the pomatum well in the Rose-water, and afterwards
beat it in a mortar perfectly smooth. This pomatum is to be applied
frequently through the day, to remove the redness of the face, pimples,
and even freckles; but to answer the last mentioned purpose, it must be
continued till they are entirely effaced. To prevent their return, the
person must avoid the intense heat of the sun, and hot drying winds for
some time.
203. _A Pomatum for the Skin._
Take Oil of White Poppy Seeds, and of the four Cold Seeds, of each a
gill; Spermaceti, three quarters of an ounce; White Wax, an ounce: mix
them into a pomatum according to the rules of art.
A great quantity of a substance resembling Butter is extracted from the
Cocoa Tree, which is excellent to mollify and nourish the skin, and has
long been used for this purpose amongst the Spanish Creolian women.
204. _Pomatum to make the Hair grow in a bald Part, and thicken the
Hair._
Take Hen's Fat, Oil of Hempseed, and Honey, of each a quarter of a
pound; melt them together in an earthen pipkin, and keep the mixture
stirring with a wooden spatula, till cold. This pomatum, to obtain the
desired effect, must be rubbed on the part eight days successively.
205. _Another Pomatum for the Hair._
Cut into small pieces a sufficient quantity of Hog's Cheek, steep it
eight or ten days in clean Water, which be careful to change three
times a day, and every time the Water is changed, stir it well with a
spatula to make the flesh white. Drain the flesh dry, and putting it
into a new earthen pipkin, with a pint of Rose-water, and a Lemon stuck
with Cloves, simmer them over the fire till the skum looks reddish.
Skim this off, and removing the pipkin from the fire, strain the
Liquor. When it has cooled, take off the fat; beat it well with cold
Water, which change two or three times as occasion may require; the
last time using Rose-water instead of common Water. Drain the Pomatum
dry, and scent it with Violets, Tuberoses, Orange Flowers, Jasmine,
Jonquils a la Reine, &c. in the following manner.
206. _Manner of Scenting Pomatums for the Hair._
Spread your Pomatum about an inch thick upon several dishes or plates,
strewing the flowers you make choice of on one dish, and covering them
with another. Change the Flowers for fresh ones every twelve hours,
and continue to pursue this method for ten or twelve days; mixing the
pomatum well, and spreading it out every time that fresh Flowers are
added. It will soon acquire a fragrant scent, and may be used in what
manner you think proper. It is good for almost every cosmetic purpose,
but more particularly for the hair, which it nourishes, strengthens,
preserves, and thickens.
207. _Orange-Flower Pomatum._
Take two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard, and three pounds of Orange
Flowers; mix them together in a marble mortar; then put the mixture
into an earthen vessel with some Water, and place it in a vapour-bath,
where let it stand till the Lard is melted, and floats above the
Flowers. When it has stood till cold, pour away the Water, and simmer
in the usual manner, with three pounds of fresh Orange Flowers. Repeat
the same operation twice more with two pounds of Orange Flowers each
time; and the last time, while the mixture stands in infusion, add a
gill of Orange-flower Water. Strain through a hair sieve held over an
earthen dish; drain off the Water thoroughly when cold, and keep the
Pomatum in a dry place, in a gallypot close tied over with a bladder.
In the same manner are prepared Jasmine, Jonquil, Tuberose, Lavender
Pomatums, and all pomatums scented with Flowers.
208. _Sultana Pomatum._
This pomatum is made of Balsam of Mecca, Spermaceti, and Oil of Sweet
Almonds cold drawn. It clears and preserves the complexion, and is of
use for red pimpled faces.
209. _A sweet smelling Perfume._
Take a pound of fresh-gathered Orange Flowers, of common Roses,
Lavender Seeds, and Musk Roses, each half a pound; of Sweet Marjoram
Leaves, and Clove-july-flowers picked, each a quarter of a pound; of
Thyme, three ounces; of Myrtle Leaves, and Melilot Stalks stripped of
their Leaves, each two ounces; of Rosemary Leaves, and Cloves bruised,
each an ounce; of Bay Leaves, half an ounce.
Let these ingredients be mixed in a large pan covered with parchment,
and be exposed to the heat of the sun during the whole summer; for the
first month stirring them every other day with a stick, and taking them
within doors in rainy weather. Towards the end of the season, they will
afford an excellent composition for a perfume; which may be rendered
yet more fragrant, by adding a little scented Cypress-powder, mixed
with coarse Violet-powder.
210. _Another for the same Purpose._
Take Orange Flowers, a pound; common Roses picked without the Yellow
Pedicles, a pound; Clove-july-flowers picked with the White End of
their Leaves cut off, half a pound; Marjoram, and Myrtle Leaves picked,
of each half a pound; Musk Roses, Thyme, Lavender, Rosemary, Sage,
Chamomile, Melilot, Hyssop, Sweet Basil, and Balm, of each two ounces;
fifteen or twenty Bay Leaves, two or three handfuls of Jasmine, as many
little Green Oranges, and half a pound of Salt. Put them in a proper
vessel, and leave them together a whole month, carefully observing to
stir the mixture well twice a day with a wooden spatula or spoon.
At the month's end, add twelve ounces of Florentine Orrice-root in
fine powder, and the same quantity of powdered Benjamin; of Cloves,
and Cinnamon finely powdered, each two ounces; Mace, Storax, Calamus
Aromaticus, all in fine powder, and Cypress-powder, of each an ounce;
Yellow Sanders and Cyprus or Sweet Flag, of each three quarters of an
ounce. Mix the whole thoroughly, by stirring, and you will have a very
fragrant perfume.
POWDERS.
211. _Orange-Flower Powder._
Put half a pound of Orange Flowers into a box that contains twelve
pounds and a half of powdered Starch; mix them well with the Starch,
and stir the mixture at intervals, to prevent the Flowers from
heating. At the expiration of twenty-four hours, remove the old
flowers, and mix with the Starch the same quantity of fresh Orange
Flowers. Continue acting in this manner for three days together, and if
you think the perfume not sufficiently strong, add fresh Flowers once
or twice more. The box must be kept close shut, as well after as during
the operation.
212. _Jonquil Powder._
Take of Starch Powder and Jonquil Flowers, in the same proportion as in
the preceding article; strew the Flowers among the Powder, and at the
expiration of twenty hours, sift it through a coarse sieve. Then throw
away the Flowers, and add to the Powder the same quantity of fresh
Flowers. Continue this method four or five days, observing never to
touch the Powder while the Flowers lie mixed with it; and the former
will hence acquire a very agreeable perfume.
In the same manner are prepared, Hyacinth, Musk Rose, and Damask Rose
Powders, &c.
213. _Coarse Violet Powder._
Beat separately into coarse Powder the following ingredients, viz. half
a pound of dried Orange Flowers; of Lemon-peel dried, Yellow Sanders,
Musk Roses, and Gum Benjamin, each a quarter of a pound; Lavender Tops
dried, three ounces; of Rose Wood, Calamus Aromaticus, and Storax, each
two ounces; an ounce of Sweet Marjoram, half an ounce of Cloves, two
pounds of Florentine Orrice-root, and a pound of dried Provence Roses;
mix the whole together. When you want to fill bags with this powder,
mix a drachm of Musk and half a drachm of Civet, with a little Mucilage
of Gum Tragacanth made with Angelic Water, and a little Sweet-scented
Water, and rub the inside of the bag over with the composition, before
you fill it with the Violet Powder.
214. _Another coarse Violet Powder._
Mix together a pound of Florentine Orrice-roots, half a pound of
dried Orange Flowers, a quarter of a pound of Yellow Sanders; of
Coriander Seeds, Sweet Flag, and of the Marc or Residuum left after
making Angelic Water, each two ounces; an ounce and a half of Calamus
Aromaticus, and an ounce of Cloves; bruise the whole into a coarse
Powder, and keep it for use in a jar, close stopped.
215. _Jasmine Powder._
Powder French Chalk, sift it through a fine sieve, put it in a box, and
strew on it a quantity of Jasmine Flowers; shut down the lid close,
and add fresh Flowers every four and twenty hours. When the Powder is
well impregnated with the scent of Jasmine, rub together a few grains
of Civet, Ambergrise, and a little white Sugar Candy, and mix them with
the Powder.
216. _Ambrette Powder._
Take six ounces of Bean Flour, and the same quantity of worm-eaten
Wood, four ounces of Cyprus Wood, two ounces of Yellow Sanders, two
ounces of Gum Benjamin, an ounce and a half of Storax, a quarter of an
ounce of Calamus.
Aromaticus, and as much Labdanum; beat the whole into a very fine
powder, and sift it through a lawn sieve. Add four grains of
Ambergrise, and half an ounce of Mahaleb or Musk Seeds; mix them with
the rest of the powder, and keep the whole in a bottle close stopped
for use. You may put any quantity you please of this Perfume into
common powder, to give it an agreeable flavour.
217. _Cyprus Powder._
Fill a linen bag with Oak Moss, steep it in water, which change
frequently, and afterwards dry the Moss in the sun. Beat it to powder,
and sprinkle it with Rose-water; then dry it again, sift it through a
fine sieve, and mix with it a small quantity of any of the preceding
powders.
218. _Another Cyprus Powder more fragrant._
Wash Oak Moss several times in pure water and dry it thoroughly; then
sprinkle over it Orange Flower and Rose-water, and spread it thin upon
a hurdle to dry. Afterwards place under it a chafing-dish, in which
burn some Storax and Benjamin. Repeat this operation till the Moss
becomes well perfumed; then beat it to fine powder, and to every pound
add a quarter of an ounce of Musk, and as much Civet.
219. _Perfumed Powder._
Take a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, two ounces of Gum Benjamin,
a pound of dried Roses, an ounce of Storax, an ounce and a half of
Yellow Sanders, a quarter of an ounce of Cloves, and a small quantity
of Lemon-peel; beat the whole together into fine powder, and then add
twenty pounds of Starch-powder. Sift through a lawn sieve; and colour
the powder according to your fancy.
220. _The White Powder that enters into the Composition of the
Delightful Perfume._
Take a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, twelve Cuttle-fish Bones, eight
pounds of Starch, and a handful of Sheep or Bullock's Bones calcined
to whiteness; beat the whole into a powder, and sift it through a fine
hair sieve.
221. _Prepared Powder._
Pour a quart of Brandy, or an ounce of highly rectified Spirit of Wine,
on a pound or a pound and a half of Starch, mix them together; then dry
the Starch, beat it to powder, and sift it through a fine lawn sieve.
If you please you may add a little powder of Florentine Orrice-root.
222. _A Powder to nourish the Hair._
Take Roots of the Sweet Flag, Calamus Aromaticus, and Red Roses dried,
of each an ounce and a half; Gum Benjamin, an ounce; Aloes Wood,
three quarters of an ounce; Red Coral prepared, and Amber prepared,
of each half an ounce; Bean Flour, a quarter of a pound, Florentine
Orrice-roots, half a pound; mix the whole together, then beat into a
fine powder, and add to it five grains of Musk, and the same quantity
of Civet. This powder greatly promotes the regeneration of the hair,
and strengthens and nourishes its roots. The property of enlivening the
imagination, and helping the memory is also attributed to it.
223. _Common Powder._
The best Starch dried is generally the basis of all Hair-powders:
as are, sometimes, worm-eaten or rotten Wood, dried Bones, or Bones
calcined to whiteness, which are sifted through a fine hair sieve after
they have been beaten to powder. This kind of Powder readily takes any
scent, particularly that of Florentine Orrice, a root which naturally
possesses a violet smell. Of these Roots, the whitest and soundest are
made choice of; they are to be powdered as fine as possible, and this
can only be done during the summer.
224. _White Powder._
Take four pounds of Starch, half a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, six
Cuttle-fish Bones; Ox Bones and Sheeps Bones calcined to whiteness,
of each half a handful; beat the whole together, and sift the Powder
through a very fine sieve.
225. _Grey Powder._
To the Residuum of the preceding add a little Starch and Wood-ashes in
fine powder; rub them together in a mortar some time, and then sift
through a fine hair sieve.
226. _Another._