SET will to an end and promptly eyes open to means! I did not start for
Granada from Palos but from Huelva, and I quitted Andalusia as a porter
in a small merchant train carrying goods of sorts to Zarafa that was a
mountain town taken from the Moors five years back. I was to these folk
Juan Lepe, a strong, middle-aged man used to ships but now for some
reason tired of them. My merchants had only eyes for the safety of their
persons and their bales, plunged the third day into mountainous wild
country echoing and ghastly with long-lasting war. Their servants and
muleteers walked and rode, lamented or were gay, raised faction,
swore, laughed, traveled grimly or in a dull melancholy or mirthfully;
quarreled and made peace, turn by turn, day by day, much alike. One who
was a bully fixed a quarrel upon me and another took my part. All leaped
to sides. I was forgotten in the midst of them; they could hardly have
told now what was the cause of battle. A young merchant rode back to
chide and settle matters. At last some one remembered that Diego had
struck Juan Lepe who had flung him off. Then Tomaso had sprung in and
struck Diego. Then Miguel--“Let Juan Lepe alone!” said my merchant.
“Fie! a poor Palos seafaring child, and you great Huelva men!” They
laughed at that, and the storm vanished as it had come.
I liked the young man.
How wild and without law, save “Hold if you can!” were these mountains!
“Hold if you can to life--hold if you can to knowledge--hold if you can
to joy!” Black cliff overhung black glen and we knew there were dens of
robbers. Far and near violence falls like black snow. This merchant
band gathered to sleep under oaks with a great rock at our back. We had
journeyers’ supper and fire, for it was cold, cold in these heights. A
little wine was given and men fell to sleep by the heaped bales; horses,
asses and mules being fastened close under the crag. Three men watched,
to be relieved in middle night by other three who now slept. A muleteer
named Rodrigo and Juan Lepe and the young merchant took the first turn.
The first two sat on one side of the fire and the young merchant on the
other.
The muleteer remained sunken in a great cloak, his chin on his arms
folded upon his knees, and what he saw in the land within I cannot tell.
But the young merchant was of a quick disposition and presently must
talk. For some distance around us spread bare earth set only with shrubs
and stones. Also the rising moon gave light, and with that and our own
strength we did not truly look for any attack. We sat and talked at
ease, though with lowered voices, Rodrigo somewhere away and the rest of
the picture sleeping. The merchant asked what had been my last voyage.
I answered, after a moment, to England.
“You do not seem to me,” he said, “a seaman. But I suppose there are all
kinds of seamen.”
I said yes, the sea was wide.
“England now, at the present moment?” he said, and questioned me as to
Bristol, of which port he had trader’s knowledge. I answered out of a
book I had read. It was true that, living once by the sea, I knew how to
handle a boat. I could find in memory sailors’ terms. But still he said,
“You are not a seaman such as we see at Palos and San Lucar.”
It is often best not to halt denial. Let it pass by and wander among the
wild grasses!
“I myself,” he said presently, “have gone by sea to Vigo and to
Bordeaux.” He warmed his hands at the fire, then clasped them about his
knees and gazed into the night. “What, Juan Lepe, is that Ocean we look
upon when we look west? I mean, where does it go? What does it strike?”
“India, belike. And Cathay. To-day all men believe the earth to be
round.”
“A long way!” he said. “O Sancta Maria! All that water!”
“We do not have to drink it.”
He laughed. “No! Nor sail it. But after I had been on that voyage I
could see us always like mice running close to a wall, forever and
forever! Juan Lepe, we are little and timid!”
I liked his spirit. “One day we shall be lions and eagles and bold
prophets! Then our tongue shall taste much beside India and Cathay!”
“Well, I hope it,” he said. “Mice running under the headlands.”
He fell silent, cherishing his knees and staring into the fire. It was
not Juan Lepe’s place to talk when master merchant talked not. I, too,
regarded the fire, and the herded mountains robed in night, and the
half-moon like a sail rising from an invisible boat.
The night went peacefully by. It was followed by a hard day’s travel
and the incident of the road. At evening we saw the walls of Zarafa in a
sunset glory. The merchants and their train passed through the gate and
found their customary inn. With others, Juan Lepe worked hard, unlading
and storing. All done, he and the bully slept almost in each other’s
arms, under the arches of the court, dreamlessly.
The next day and the next were still days of labor. It was not until
the third that Juan Lepe considered that he might now absent himself and
there be raised no hue and cry after strong shoulders. He had earned his
quittance, and in the nighttime, upon his hands and knees, he crept from
the sleepers in the court. Just before dawn the inn gate swung open. He
had been waiting close to it, and he passed out noiselessly.
In the two days, carrying goods through streets to market square and up
to citadel and pausing at varying levels for breath and the prospect, I
had learned this town well enough. I knew where went the ascending and
descending ways. Now almost all lay asleep, antique, shaded, Moorish,
still, under the stars. The soldiery and the hidalgos, their officers,
slept; only the sentinels waked before the citadel entry and on the town
walls and by the three gates. The town folk slept, all but the sick and
the sorrowful and the careful and those who had work at dawn. Listen,
and you might hear sound like the first moving of birds, or breath of
dawn wind coming up at sea. The greater part now of the town folk
were Christian, brought in since the five-year-gone siege that still
resounded. Moors were here, but they had turned Christian, or were
slaves, or both slave and Christian. I had seen monks of all habits and
heard ring above the inn the bells of a nunnery. Now again they rang.
The mosque was now a church. It rose at hand,--white, square, domed. I
went by a ladder-like lane down toward Zarafa wall and the Gate of the
Lion. At sunrise in would pour peasants from the vale below, bringing
vegetables and poultry, and mountaineers with quails and conies, and
others with divers affairs. Outgoing would be those who tilled a few
steep gardens beyond the wall, messengers and errand folk, soldiers and
traders for the army before Granada.
It was full early when I came to the wall. I could make out the heavy
and tall archway of the gate, but as yet was no throng before it. I
waited; the folk began to gather, the sun came up. Zarafa grew rosy. Now
was clatter enough, voices of men and brutes, both sides the gate. The
gate opened. Juan Lepe won out with a knot of brawny folk going to the
mountain pastures. Well forth, he looked back and saw Zarafa gleaming
rose and pearl in the blink of the sun, and sent young merchantward a
wish for good. Then he took the eastward way down the mountain, toward
lower mountains and at last the Vega of Granada.