FIRST STAY IN EGYPT.
(continued.)
As has already been stated, the Battalion was quarantined for 14 days
after its arrival at Abbasia. To find amusement during that period was a
problem. At first the immediate environment produced some distraction.
The hawkers and their cries, the arguments between contractors and
labourers, the labour gangs at work, the habits of the crowds of
scavenging kites, the Yeomanry exercising in the desert, the Egyptian
Army recruits drilling in front of their barracks in time to drums
beating at 140 a minute, and the circus-like performance of the Arab
grooms taking remounts to and from water, all helped to pass an idle
hour or two. Occasionally there was a visit from a little party of
juvenile acrobats, who gave exhibitions of their prowess in return for
"bakshish." One visitor was a youth of about 12--an extraordinary
caricature, suffering from ophthalmia and dressed in various ragged and
dirty portions of uniform. He laid claim to the name of "Saghen
Mechenzi" and had an uncanny knowledge of the rifle, which he handled
like a guardsman, and defied all attempts to confound him. Another and
more welcome visitor was a youth of French extraction, who sold very
fine picture postcards at a reasonable rate and would also undertake
commissions for purchases in the city. Victor displayed unexpected
traits of honesty and on being questioned thereon replied--"My father is
French, he is honest, therefore I am honest." Nothing more could be
said.
To relieve the monotony of the period during which no leave could be
granted, it was decided to arrange a route march through the city as far
as the Citadel walls, halt there for rest and return in the cool of the
evening. During the afternoon of Sunday, the 11th July, the Battalion in
drill order, and without rifles, set out led by a guide and preceded by
Victor mounted importantly on a white donkey. According to the map the
total distance to be covered was about ten miles, but owing to detours
necessary in order to avoid the narrow streets the Battalion actually
traversed some 14 or 15 miles. The heat was considerable, and a number
of men fell out on account of the sickness which was very prevalent at
this time. However, there was much to be seen. Palaces and hovels,
magnificent hotels and humble coffee houses. Strange people and
stranger costumes. Weird sights, sounds, and smells. Some streets no
wider than our back lanes, teeming with people, filth, and squalor, and
every window, doorway, or hole in the wall with something in it for
sale. Veiled women and shuttered upper windows in the better class
residential quarter hinted romance to those who had read the adventures
of the Khalif. A wedding procession, and, again, a funeral procession
were passed. The effect of the first was unusual, and the music that
accompanied it had a mournful touch not noticeable in the second. The
native police along the route were most attentive and cleared the way on
every occasion. The traffic was considerable--mostly pedestrian, but
with electric tramcars, donkeys, and horse gharris in large numbers.
After one or two rests on the way, the Battalion at length came to a
halt on an open space under the massive west wall of the Citadel. This
place was to become better known later on, but on this occasion
curiosity and interest were subordinated to the desire for cool drinks
and rest. About an hour later the return march was commenced and camp
reached some time after dark.
On the 17th July the quarantine restrictions were removed. A system was
instituted whereby 25 per cent. were able to leave camp after evening
parade on week days, 12 noon on Saturdays, and 8 a.m. on Sundays. Leave
was usually commenced by tours within the city and visits to the Mouski
for the purpose of purchasing gifts for the people at home. Here western
methods were copied by some of the shopkeepers, and a sign which read--
SUCCOUR SALE, DRAPERIE HIGH LIFE
suggested that bargains might be hoped for. Gharri drives were popular
but some men, with humane feeling, were averse to being hauled by a
beast almost too poor and degraded to be longer termed a horse and one
which, in our own land, would have received the attention of the
S.P.C.A. The drivers of these vehicles cleared their way through the
pedestrian traffic by cries such as "Ya meenuk" (To the right), "She
maluk" (To the left), or "Owar riglak" (Mind your legs), repeated
incessantly.
Donkey rides seemed to provide a certain amount of amusement. The beasts
were hardy, and it was no uncommon sight to see two or three Australians
trying the speed of their mounts down one of the main
streets--enthusiastically encouraged by the donkeys' owners.
Occasionally donkey and rider were facing in opposite directions. When
tired, the soldier could go for rest to the Club established in the open
air of the Esbekieh Gardens by the Australian Red Cross Society and
Y.M.C.A. Here, comfortable seats, meals, and music could be obtained.
Other places were picture theatres, and the "Kursaal" and "Casino" where
variety entertainments were given nightly--mostly by French artists.
Some very good turns were to be seen at the Kursaal, the popular
favourite being a soprano, Mimi Pinson, who could bring the house down
by her rendering of "Two Eyes of Grey." At the Casino the audience sat
about at tables and consumed cool drinks whilst listening to or watching
the performers on the stage. The feminine element predominated here, and
there was an air of friendliness about their open glances and
conversation at first somewhat bewildering to the unsophisticated. The
officers, in their peregrinations, made free use of the large
hotels--such as "Shepheard's" or the "Continental," and the various
clubs such as the Italian and Ghezirah Sporting Clubs. Shepheard's Hotel
had been placed out of bounds to all but officers. Various reasons for
this step were suggested. What, however, is believed to have had a good
deal to do with it is the fact that during dinner on one occasion a
rather stout and pompous senior general, sitting at table with his wife
and daughters, was very affectionately greeted, embraced, and kissed by
an hilarious youth from the southern seas.
[Illustration: THE WALL OF THE CITADEL.
From which the Mameluke leaped. The twin minarets are those of
the Mehemet Ali Mosque.
_Photo. by Sergt. Arundel._]
[Illustration: THE GREAT PYRAMID.
_From the plan by C. Piazzi Smyth._]
At the commencement of all tours guides were offering freely, and were
often required. They were of two kinds. The genuine type was usually a
graduate of one of the educational institutions, and would arrange and
conduct, more or less satisfactorily, any expedition--were it to visit
the Cairo Museum, the Pyramids and other monuments, or to go duck
shooting near Alexandria or gazelle hunting in the Fayum. The other type
of guide hailed from somewhere at the back of the bazaars; he was loudly
importunate, proclaimed himself as named Macpherson, Abdullah, or
Johnson, and stated that he was "dinkum." The possibilities with him
seemed extensive. Anyone who employed this kind of person, and expected
to have a kind of Arabian Nights entertainment, returned richer by his
experience but, usually, unless he was very very careful, with the
sensations of having just emerged from a garbage pit.
The Australian's interest in Egypt was immense. He had no marked
admiration for the existing inhabitants, but his reading had given him
an insatiable longing to know more of the ancients and their great
works. He let no opportunity, therefore, escape him of viewing and
studying the monuments which had withstood the ravages of time for so
many centuries. Various expeditions were arranged by bands of friends
who, after engaging a dragoman, would often pool their resources in
order that the day might be as pleasant as it was instructive. As a rule
the first expedition was to the great Pyramids at Gizeh--distant
glimpses of which can be obtained from points not far from Abbasia.
Situated about eight miles from Cairo, the route to this objective lies
through the city, across the Nile bridge, and along the delightful
causeway said to have been built by the Khedive Ismail for use by the
Empress Eugenie during her visit on the occasion of the opening of the
Suez Canal. On arrival at the village, camels and donkeys are used to
traverse the stretch of heavy sand which intervenes between the road and
the plateau upon which the Pyramids stand.
The Pyramids are three in number, but vary in size. The largest is that
of Cheops, the second that of Chephren, and the smallest that of
Menkaura. The tomb of Cheops attracts all visitors and, once having been
"done," any curiosity in regard to the remainder is, as a rule, entirely
lacking. There are two ways of "doing" it. One is to climb up the
exterior to the summit, and the other to go inside and visit the King's
and Queen's chambers. No ordinary individual has the strength to achieve
both in the one day. The visit to the top gives the better result in a
magnificent view of Cairo, the Nile, and the surrounding desert, but
gaining this involves a climb to a height of 451 feet by means of the
several courses of stone, each course being about three feet high; nor
is the descent very much easier. To inspect the interior it is necessary
to first ascend about 30 feet to the entrance. Here, on the occasion of
the Western Australians' visit, were met the guides or caretakers
attached to the place. Bedlam instantly broke out. All wanted a job or
"bakshish." Some grabbed the soldiers' sticks, others their boots and
leggings. After much remonstrance, and an occasional hard knock or kick
to some too enthusiastic native, the party, in its stockinged feet,
eventually passed within the entrance. The passage was narrow, low,
steep, and extremely slippery. With an Arab to each hand--as a
precaution against a nasty fall--the soldier, breathing a muggy
atmosphere, sweating at every pore, and filled with repulsion at the
close proximity of his yelling conductors, made a crab-like and painful
progress through darkness over the 220 feet of distance to the King's
Chamber. This apartment, viewed by candlelight or a flare now and then
from a piece of magnesium wire, does not present, beyond some carvings
on the walls, anything of great interest.
After a brief rest the party retraced some of its steps and visited the
Queen's Chamber, situated lower down. Here it was necessary to have
another breather, and at this stage some Arab evinced a desire to
foretell the fortune of anyone who would listen to him and, of course,
produce the necessary monetary encouragement. Finally, the open air was
regained, perspiration ceased to pour, and with luck it was possible to
recover those portions of clothing left behind when entering. Now
thoughts were directed to the Pyramids Hotel at Mena--noticed earlier in
the day--where, under the shade of trees, tables were set and lunch
could be obtained, together with much good and cool English ale.
Sometimes the parties had enough energy left to first pay a call on the
Sphinx, which is situated about 300 yards distant from the great tomb.
Very few thoroughly explored this relic of the ancients, but its great
antiquity, alleged by some authorities to date long prior to the
creation as fixed by the Christian calendar, and the riddle associated
with it, demanded that everyone should at least go and gaze on its face
for a little while. Here it was customary to submit to the camera man.
Many photographs were thus secured which, when posted, were of great
interest to the friends at home.
The next place of interest was the site of the City of Memphis--the
ancient capital of Egypt--and its necropolis at Sakkara. Memphis was
reached either by train or donkey ride from Cairo, or by a ride of about
two hours across from the Pyramids at Gizeh. Of the city itself nothing
is left to mark its ancient magnificence except the two giant statues of
Rameses II. However, the country between there and Gizeh is one vast
cemetery containing the tombs of the notables. The most conspicuous of
these is the Step Pyramid--the oldest of such and the resting-place of
the body of King Teheser. Less conspicuous, but more interesting to the
newcomers, were the Apis Tombs, which contain the sarcophagi of 24 of
the Sacred Bulls. These sarcophagi, complete with lids, are of an
immense size--each weighing some 65 tons. Near by are the tombs of
Ptah-hetep and Ti, in which the rich and well-preserved mural
decorations give a very full representation of the life and habits of
the inhabitants of the city in their time. Other interesting remains,
some Greek and some Roman, were also to be seen, but by this time the
average Australian had had enough for one day, and turned to the means
of getting back to the more congenial surroundings of the modern city or
camp.
[Illustration: VIEW OF CAIRO FROM THE CITADEL WALLS.
The Sultan Hassan and Khedivial Mosques in the foreground.
_Photo. by Sergt. Arundel._]
[Illustration: THE MOQATTAM HILLS.
Showing the quarries and the Causeway leading to the summit.
_Photo. by Sergt. Arundel._]
Having seen so many of the tombs, parties took an especial interest in
the Cairo Museum, wherein they inspected wonderful statuary; mummies
of men, women, cats, dogs, monkeys, and crocodiles; also coffins and
other relics going back in origin, some of them, to a period nearly
4,000 B.C. The jewellery, said at one time to have been worn by Queen
Cleopatra, attracted much attention, as did also specimens of
boomerangs--a weapon which almost every Australian had thought was
peculiar to his own country.
Time did not permit of visits up the Nile to the ruins at Luxor, Thebes,
Philae, and Karnak, so the programme of viewing ancient remains had to
be somewhat restricted. Consequently little was now left to do except to
visit Mataria (about four miles north of the camp), view the Tree and
Well associated with the Flight out of Egypt, and then proceed to the
obelisk near by, which marks the site of the old Heliopolis--the City of
the Sun.
Other and more modern buildings and structures, connected with the early
Christians and the Saracens, are plentiful in Cairo, and to these the
visitors now turned. Chief amongst them is the Citadel, the erection of
which Saladin began in A.D. 1166. From its walls a fine view of the city
and its environs can be obtained. To the south the Aqueduct built by the
Saracens comes under observation; and near by, on the east side, the
Moqattam Hills--scarred by quarries and surmounted by a fort from which
Napoleon silenced the guns of the Citadel. Within Saladin's walls are to
be seen Joseph's Well--some 300 feet deep; the costly mosque of Mehemet
Ali with its dome and twin minarets; two or three smaller and older
mosques; and, on the wall, the hoof print of the escaping Mameluke's
horse.
Opposite to the main entrance to the Citadel, and without the walls, are
two mosques of unusual size. One, the mosque of the Sultan Hassan--noted
amongst other things for its wonderful arches, doors inlaid with gold,
and a cannon ball still sticking in the wall facing the hills which bear
Napoleon's fort; the other containing the tombs of the Khedivial family
and distinguished by the richness of the decorations and inlay of
sandalwood, ebony, silver, and ivory.
Mosques and shrines in Cairo number nearly 500. There is plenty to see
in this respect, but after a few of the principal ones, including the
Blue Mosque of Ibrahim Agha, had been inspected, and similar calls paid
on some of the old Coptic churches, interest waned and the soldier,
looking for a change, sometimes turned to the Roman and Arab remains in
Old Cairo and Fustat, or else visited the Tombs of the Khalifs and
Mamelukes on the edge of the desert. Here he was, perhaps, successful in
obtaining genuine souvenirs of the "Dead City."
[Illustration: CAIRO AND ENVIRONS]
Apart from short trips on the Nile, per steam dahabiyehs, two other
excursions must be mentioned. One was to the Island of Roda to view
the spot where the infant Moses is alleged to have been found by the
Pharoah's daughter; and the other by tram or gharri along the Mena Road
to the Zoological Gardens. This institution is said to have been one of
the many extravagances of the Khedive Ismail. The visitors greatly
admired the grounds and also the fine collection of the larger African
animals.
Driving back in the evening from the Gardens, the soldier was able to
see Cairo taking the air under the shade of the lebbok trees and observe
the wealthy and official classes in their carriages and motors. He was
not slow to notice the arrogant air of the Egyptian male aristocracy,
accompanied as they often were by rather fleshy ladies of foreign
origin. Nor did he fail to feel impressed by the neat and wholesome
appearance of the few British ladies who took exercise on this highway.
With the exception of two days at the beginning of August, when Cairo
was placed out of bounds owing to the rioting, and the 12th to 14th
August, when the Festival of Bairam was being observed, sight-seeing
went on at leave periods during the whole of the Battalion's stay in
Egypt.
On the 16th August the Battalion, when carrying out a night operation in
the desert, was recalled to camp and ordered to proceed the following
morning to garrison the Citadel. At 7.30 a.m. on the 17th August the
28th, leaving the transport behind under a small guard, commenced the
march to its new home which, after a trying time in the heat, was
reached in due course and quarters found in the various blocks of
barracks. These quarters, it was discovered, were alive with vermin,
necessitating the whole Battalion being set to work for several hours in
an attempt to clean the place. Iron bedsteads and palliasses were
available for the use of the troops, but as the palliasses also showed
signs of life very few were used. After Gallipoli was reached an account
for 40 of these iron bedsteads, which the unit, it was inferred, had
taken with it or disposed of in some other unlawful manner, was received
from the British authorities. Needless to say it has not yet been paid.
The C.O. was, for the time being, the Commandant of the fortress which
was the home of the ordnance stores and reserve of ammunition of the
Army of Occupation. Besides the British and Egyptian staffs to work
these, there were other troops within the walls. These included details
of the 2nd Mounted Division, recently embarked for the Peninsula;
British and Indian General Hospitals (both full); a hospital for
convalescents; a detention barracks; and about 40 Turkish Officers under
guard as prisoners of war. Amongst these prisoners was a major, a nephew
of the Senussi, who had been visiting Constantinople at the outbreak of
war and found himself immediately requisitioned for a tour through
Arabia for the purpose of promoting a holy war against the English.
Himself an Arab, who had always looked upon Great Britain with friendly
eyes, he undertook the mission rather unwillingly. In course of time he
joined Djemal Pasha's army approaching the Canal and was finally
captured by its defenders.
Owing to the large numbers of men required for special duties, all
training, except that for the section, platoon, and company, had to
cease. What little was done was carried out in the barrack yards or
else, in the early morning, on the top of the adjacent Moqattam Hills,
which was reached by a kind of causeway running up through the quarries.
The duties consisted of providing guards and sentries for the various
gates of the Citadel; guards on some of the hospitals and detention
barracks; and patrols which had the unpleasant duty of traversing the
highways of the city for the purpose of preserving order and looking
after the interests of the army and the men on leave.
Existing orders did not permit any civilian to enter the gates of the
Citadel unless provided with an official pass. The enforcement of this
order caused some dismay amongst the women from the neighbouring houses
who had been in the habit of visiting the Citadel stables for the
purpose of obtaining material for the manufacture of fuel, which was a
scarce commodity with them. The ladies' method of explaining their
mission was clear, if not delicate, and brought a blush to the faces of
the sentries on the Moqattam Gate.
The Warrant and Non-commissioned Officers had a good mess, which was
presided over by the Regimental Sergeant-Major. The Officers joined and
took over control of the Garrison Officers' Mess--very well and cheaply
run. Here many pleasant acquaintances were made and a good deal learned
in regard to the organisation and working of the British units.
Short leave was still granted liberally to those desiring it, but
numbers found sufficient attraction in or near the Citadel to pass away
many hours. The views from the walls, or from the tops of the old
towers, the mosques, the well and its echo, the remains of Saladin's
palace, the Church of England chapel (established in the bathroom of a
former Sultan's harem), where service was frequently held, all received
much attention. Occasional trips by souvenir hunters were made to the
adjacent "Dead City." These were sometimes fruitful, for in one barrack
room an ancient skull was observed reposing on a shelf above an inmate's
bed.
Now and then concerts were given for the benefit of the hospital
patients, and an invitation for members of the Battalion to attend was
received.
[Illustration: THE CITADEL.
As seen from the Moqattam Hills. Cairo and the Nile in the distance.
_Photo. by Sergt. Arundel._]
On Sunday, 29th August, a visit was received from a party of Western
Australians who were friends and relatives of some members of the
28th, and were making a short stay in Egypt. The party included the Rev.
E. M. Collick, Archdeacon of Kalgoorlie; Mrs. Campbell Wilson; Mrs. and
Miss Montgomery; and Mrs. Makeham.
About the middle of August news of the heavy fighting, which had been
going on at the Dardanelles, began to dribble through. It was gathered
that the results had not been entirely such as could have been hoped
for, and that the casualties--particularly of the 10th Light Horse, the
11th and 16th Battalions--had been heavy. Information was also received
of a disaster to the Yeomanry on the 21st August.
Hospital trains began to arrive and discharge large numbers of wounded
into the hospitals. From the less seriously injured some idea of the
last advance was obtained, and it seemed evident that the 2nd Australian
Division would soon be called upon to play its part. In the third week
of the month the 5th Brigade marched off _en route_ to the front, and
was followed a few days later by the 6th Brigade.
These indications caused some stir in the Battalion and, although
definite orders had not been received, preparations for another move
were commenced.
On the 24th August were issued the colour patches which were to be worn
sewn on to the upper part of each sleeve of the jacket. In the case of
the 2nd Division the patch was diamond in shape. The 7th Brigade colour
was a light blue and the Battalion colour white. The "28th" therefore
wore a blue and white diamond, and by this badge was ever afterwards
distinguished.
About this time a slight change was made in the Battalion Staff. W.O. J.
Gettingby was promoted to be Quartermaster and Hon. Lieutenant. His
position as R.S.M. was filled by C.S.M. P. T. C. Bell.
On the 28th August orders were received that the Battalion would be
relieved on the following Monday and march out to camp. On the 30th
August the 5th Australian Training Battalion, commanded by Major J. S.
Lazarus, took over the garrison duties and the 28th, after being
photographed in mass formation, moved by way of the desert road, through
the Tombs of the Khalifs and Abbasia, to Aerodrome Camp, recently
vacated by the 5th Brigade. Only tents were available here, and the camp
was very dusty. As the tenancy was likely to be of a few days duration
only, these inconveniences were submitted to with a good grace.
Wheeled transport and riding horses could not, at that stage, be either
safely or profitably used on Gallipoli, so to the bitter disappointment
of Lieut. Graham and his section, the Divisional Commander ordered that
they be left behind--later on to be grouped with the rest of the
Divisional Train, exercised, and held in readiness against being
required.
On the 1st September a message from Brigade Headquarters directed that
the Battalion would proceed "overseas" on the 3rd September. All surplus
stores were at once got rid of, and spare baggage collected to be handed
over to the care of the Australian Base. The Regimental Orderly-room
Clerk, Staff Sergeant S. S. Thompson, was detailed and departed for duty
at the Australian Headquarters in Egypt, where he would be responsible
for the proper keeping of Battalion records.
The 2nd September witnessed the departure for Alexandria of a small
advance party, under Lieut. H. E. C. Ruddock, charged with the duty of
making all necessary arrangements for the reception of the troops when
arriving at the wharf. Tents were struck that afternoon and a bivouac
formed for the night.
After the evening meal on the following day the Battalion fell in, and a
check of the _personnel_ was made. Previously a number of sick, and the
few men in detention, had been struck off the strength and shown as
transferred to the Training Depot. It was now found that three or four
men were missing. As time did not permit of a search being made, a
report was sent to the A.P.M., and the additional names were also
removed from the roll.
Late that night the move commenced to Qubba station, where the train was
boarded. Each man was bearing a heavy burden. All ranks were fitted with
web equipment, carrying in their packs great coats and a few necessaries
and personal belongings, and bearing a blanket, waterproof sheet, three
days' rations of biscuits and preserved meat, together with an emergency
ration in a sealed tin, and (for those with rifles) 200 rounds of
ammunition. Officers carried revolvers, field glasses, prismatic
compass, and various other extras. They were also allowed to place their
valises on the train but, according to rumour, it was doubtful if they
would ever reach them on Gallipoli.
The entrainment was expeditiously carried out and, with the usual amount
of discomfort, the journey to the quay at Alexandria was completed by
daylight on the 4th September. Here Lieut. Ruddock was waiting and,
after some delay, the Battalion embarked on the transport in a similar
manner, minus the sympathetic crowd, to that witnessed at Fremantle.