WAX POMADES, BANDOLINES, AND BRILLIANTINES.
The so-called wax pomades, stick pomatum, and bandolines serve to
stiffen the hair and are frequently employed by hair dressers. The
former two articles possess some adhesive power by which they fasten
the hair together; bandolines are mucilaginous fluids which generally
contain bassorin (or vegetable mucilage present in tragacanth), quince
seeds, etc.
A. Wax Pomades.
STICK POMATUM.
This is usually formed into oval or round sticks which are wrapped
in tin foil. They are colored and perfumed as desired. The ordinary
varieties are: white, for light blond hair, which is left uncolored;
pink, colored with carmine; brown, colored with umber; and black,
colored with bone black. The coloring matters are always rubbed up with
oil. Red pomatum may be colored with alkanet root, which is macerated
for some time with the melted fat. The base of these preparations
consists of:
Lard 4 lb.
Tallow 12 lb.
Wax 6 lb.
The mass may be made harder or softer by increasing or diminishing the
wax. The perfumes generally used are oils of bergamot, lemon, clove,
and thyme, with an addition of some Peru balsam.
B. Beard Wax.
BEARD WAX (CIRE À MOUSTACHES).
Turpentine 2 lb.
Expressed oil of almond 2 lb.
Wax 6 lb.
Violet pomade 2 lb.
Peru balsam 1 lb.
Oil of clove 1 oz.
Oil of santal ¾ oz.
Oil of cinnamon ¾ oz.
HUNGARIAN BEARD WAX (CIRE À MOUSTACHE HONGROISE.)
Castile soap, powdered 3½ oz.
Mucilage of acacia 10 oz.
White wax 9 oz.
Glycerin 3½ oz.
Oil of bergamot 20 drops.
Oil of lemon 10 drops.
Oil of rose 10 drops.
Rub the powdered soap with the mucilage, previously diluted with nine
ounces of water, then add the wax and glycerin, and heat the mass on a
water-bath, stirring constantly, until it becomes homogeneous. Lastly
add the oils, and pour the mass into suitable moulds.
For brown or black wax the corresponding color is added. The mass is
formed into sticks the thickness of a lead pencil.
C. Bandolines.
BANDOLINE AUX AMANDES.
Tragacanth 14 oz.
Rose water 8 qts.
Oil of bitter almond ¾ oz.
Crush the tragacanth, place it in the rose water, and leave it at rest
in a warm spot, stirring occasionally, until the tragacanth has swollen
to a slimy mass. Press it first through a coarse and then through a
finer cloth, add a little carmine and the oil of bitter almond.
BANDOLINE À LA ROSE.
This is made like the preceding, only substituting 1½ oz. of oil of
rose for the oil of bitter almond. Other varieties may be produced by
the use of different odors.
D. Brillantines.
Under various names preparations are placed on the market which render
the hair both soft and glossy. The chief constituent of all these
articles is glycerin which is perfumed according to taste and stained
reddish or violet. As many aniline colors easily dissolve in glycerin,
they are generally used for this purpose. Formerly, before glycerin
was obtainable in sufficient purity, brillantines were chiefly made of
castor oil dissolved in alcohol, but aside from the fact that glycerin
is cheaper than castor oil with alcohol, the former is preferable, as
alcohol injures the hair.
BRILLANTINE.
Glycerin 8 lb.
Extract of jasmine (or other flower) 2 qts.
OLÉOLISSE.
Glycerin 4 lb.
Castor oil 4 lb.
Oil of bergamot ¾ oz.
Oil of lemon ¾ oz.
Oil of neroli 150 grains.