SKIN COSMETICS AND FACE LOTIONS.
The use of skin cosmetics and paints is of remote antiquity, but varies
in different nations according to their civilization and their sense
of beauty. While among certain Oriental nations dark blue rings around
the eyes, with yellow lips and nails, pass for beautiful, the European
prizes only a white skin with a delicate tinge of red; Italian ladies
in the middle ages used the dark red juice of the fruit of the deadly
night-shade as a paint, hence the name bella donna, _i.e._, beautiful
lady. (According to Matthiolus, the name _herba bella donna_ arose
from the fact that Italian ladies used a distilled water of the plant
as a cosmetic.) Owing to its marked effect on the eyes, by dilating
the pupil and increasing the lustre, this juice also heightens the
brilliancy of the eye, though at the expense of its health.
While in the last century face-painting was a universal fashion, it
is nowadays resorted to only by persons whose skin requires some
artificial help. But nobody desires that the cosmetic should be
perceptible on the skin. Hence it must be laid down as a rule that
paints and all cosmetics should be so compounded that it is not easily
possible to the observer to recognize that some artificial means has
been employed for beautifying the skin.
We give below a number of such articles, which come as near as possible
to this ideal without injuring the skin. As every skin cosmetic cannot
but occlude the pores of the skin, it should be removed as soon as
possible—an advice to be heeded particularly by actors and actresses,
who must appear painted on the boards.
A. White Skin Cosmetics.
FRENCH WHITE (BLANC FRANÇAIS).
Talcum 4 lb.
Oil of lemon 75 grains.
Oil of bergamot 75 grains.
The talcum must be reduced to the finest powder, levigated, dried, and
then perfumed. Owing to its unctuous nature, it readily adheres to the
skin, and as it has no effect on it and does not change color, it is
the best of all powders.
LIQUID BISMUTH WHITE; PEARL WHITE (BLANC PERLÉ LIQUIDE).
Subnitrate of bismuth 1 lb.
Rose water 1 qt.
Orange-flower water 1 qt.
When standing at rest, the subnitrate of bismuth sinks to the bottom,
while the supernatant fluid becomes quite clear. The bottle must
therefore be vigorously shaken immediately before use. When this
preparation remains on the skin for some length of time, it loses its
pure white color and becomes yellow, or darker, through the gradual
formation of a black sulphur compound.
VENETIAN CHALK (CRAIE VENÉTIENNE).
is made exactly like the French white, above; the only difference
between the two preparations is that the talcum for the latter is
brought to a red heat, which, however, causes it in part to lose the
power of adhering to the skin.
B. Red Skin Cosmetics (Rouges).
ROUGE VÉGETAL ROSE LIQUIDE.
Ammonia water 2 oz.
Carmine 1¼ oz.
Essence of rose (triple) 2½ oz.
Rose water 2 qts.
This superior preparation, which serves mainly for coloring the lips,
is made as follows: Reduce the carmine to powder; macerate it in the
ammonia in a three or four pint bottle for several days, add the other
ingredients, and let it stand for a week under oft-repeated agitation.
At the end of that time the bottle is left undisturbed until the
contents have become quite clear, when they are carefully decanted and
filled into bottles for sale.
In order to obtain this preparation in proper form, only the finest
carmine should be used. That known in the market as “No. 40” is the
best. This alone will produce a cosmetic that, when brought in contact
with the skin, will give a vivid red color.
In place of carmine, which requires the presence of ammonia if it is
to remain in solution, the anilin color known as _eosine_ may be used.
Of this, very minute amounts will be sufficient to impart the proper
tint. It is impracticable to give exact proportions, as these must be
determined in each case by experiment. It is necessary to avoid an
excess. The tint of a liquid colored by eosine may not appear deep, and
yet when it is applied to the skin a decidedly deeper stain than was
desired may be produced. Hence each addition of fresh coloring matter
must be carefully controlled by a practical test.
ROUGE EN FEUILLES.
Cut from thick, highly calendered paper circular disks about 2½ inches
in diameter, and cover them with a layer of carmine containing just
enough gum acacia to make it adhere to the paper. For use, the leaf
is breathed on, a pledget of fine cotton is rubbed over it, and the
adhering color is transferred to the skin.
ROUGE EN PÂTE.
Carmine 1 oz.
Talcum 21 oz.
Gum acacia 1¾ oz.
The ingredients in finest powder are mixed in a mortar by prolonged
trituration, then water is added in small portions to form a doughy
mass to be filled into shallow porcelain dishes about the diameter
of a dollar. If the rouge is desired darker for the use of actors
and dark-complexioned persons, the proportion of carmine should be
increased.
ROUGE EN TASSES.
Carthamin 1 oz.
Talcum powder 1 lb.
Gum acacia 1½ oz.
Oil of rose 15 grains.
This rouge, when dry, has a greenish metallic lustre; it is prepared
and sold like rouge en pâte.
BLEU VÉGETAL POUR LES VEINES.
Venetian chalk 1 lb.
Berlin blue 1¾ oz.
Gum acacia 1 oz.
To the powdered solids add sufficient water to form a mass to be rolled
into sticks. For use, a pencil is breathed on, rubbed against the rough
side of a piece of white glove leather, and the veins are marked with
the adhering color on the skin coated with pearl white. Of course, some
dexterity is required to make the veins appear natural by the use of
this blue color.
ROUGE ALLOXANE (ALLOXAN RED; MUREXIDE PAINT).
Cold cream 1 lb.
Alloxan 75 grains.
Dissolve the alloxan in a little water and mix it intimately with any
desired cold-cream. The mixture is white, but when transferred to the
skin gradually becomes red. The preparation sold in Austria, etc.,
under the name of “Schnuda” is identical with this alloxan paint.
C. Face Lotions.
The skin often contains spots with marked color which are more or
less unsightly; for instance, freckles, liver spots, mother’s marks
(nævi), etc. Unfortunately we know of no remedy which radically removes
them; even chemical preparations with the most energetic effects,
which of course must never be employed owing to their destructive
action on the skin, cannot entirely do away with these dark spots
which have their seat in the lower layers of the skin. But the public
demands preparations for the removal of freckles, liver spots, etc.,
and—obtains them. We subjoin the formulas for several of such secret
remedies, but declare emphatically that none of them will completely
effect the desired result.
FRECKLE MILK (LAIT ANTÉPHELIQUE).
Camphor 1¾ oz.
Ammonium chloride ¾ oz.
Corrosive sublimate 150 grains.
Albumen 3½ oz.
Rose water 2 lb.
We call attention to the fact that the sublimate (bichloride of
mercury) is very poisonous and must be used with the greatest care.
FRECKLE LOTION.
Angelica root 1¾ oz.
Black hellebore root 1¾ oz.
Storax ¾ oz.
Oil of bergamot 150 grains.
Oil of citron 150 grains.
Alcohol 2 qts.
Macerate for a week and filter.
EAU LENTICULEUSE.
Potassium carbonate 7 oz.
Sugar ¾ oz.
Orange-flower water 2 qts.
Alcohol 7 oz.
LILIONESE I.
Potassium carbonate 14 oz.
Water 4 lb.
Rose water 14 oz.
Alcohol 7 oz.
Oil of rose 150 grains.
Oil of cinnamon 75 grains.
LILIONESE II.
Rose water 2 qts.
Orange-flower water 1 qt.
Glycerin 1 lb.
Potassium carbonate 3½ oz.
Tincture of benzoin ¾ to 1¾ oz.
Add only enough of the alcoholic tincture of benzoin to render the
liquid slightly opalescent or milky.
LOTION FOR CHAPPED SKIN.
Glycerin 4 lb.
Water 1 qt.
Rose water 1 qt.
Color pale red with cochineal.
EAU DE PERLES.
White soap 1 lb.
Dissolved in: Water 4 qts.
Glycerin 2 lb.
Add: Rose water 1 qt.
Tincture of musk 150 grains.
To be colored bluish with some indigo-carmin.
TEINT DE VENUS.
Alcoholic soap solution 2 qts.
Carbonate of potassium 3½ oz.
Extract of orange flower 3½ oz.
The soap solution is made as concentrated as possible, and the entire
fluid colored with cochineal; in place of the extract of orange flower,
other essences or extracts may also be employed. For use, some of the
liquid is poured into the wash water.
PULCHÉRINE.
Carbonate of potassium 14 oz.
Water 4 lb.
Orange-flower water 2 lb.
Alcohol 3½ oz.
Oil of neroli 150 grains.
Tincture of vanilla ¾ oz.
The preceding preparations owe their activity merely to the presence of
carbonate of potassium which forms an emulsion with the fat of the skin
and thus resembles in its effects a mild soap. The other ingredients
only serve to render the composition fragrant.
D. Toilet Powders.
Toilet powders are used to impart whiteness and smoothness to the skin;
hence they are merely a kind of dry cosmetic which are applied by means
of a powder puff or a hare’s foot. Their main ingredients are starch
and talcum powders, perfumed and sometimes tinted a rose-red color.
It is immaterial what kind of starch is used; rice, wheat, and potato
starch are equally effective, provided they are clear white and in the
finest powder. In some cases the bitter-almond bran remaining after the
expression of the fixed oil and the preparation of the oil of bitter
almond is likewise used for toilet powders. The more thoroughly these
powders are rubbed into the skin, the whiter the latter becomes and the
less easily can they be detected.
WHITE TOILET POWDER.
Fine levigated zinc white 1¾ oz.
Venetian talcum 1¾ oz.
Carbonate of magnesia 1¾ oz.
Oil of rose 20 drops.
Oil of orris 20 drops.
Mix intimately.
PINK TOILET POWDER.
White toilet powder (see above) 5½ oz.
Carmine 8 grains.
POUDRE DE PISTACHES.
Pistachio meal 10 lb.
Talcum 10 lb.
Oil of lavender ¾ oz.
Oil of rose ½ oz.
Oil of cinnamon 75 grains.
The oil must have been completely extracted from the pistachio meal,
which is to be reduced to the finest powder.
POUDRE À LA ROSE.
Starch powder 20 lb.
Carmine ¾ oz.
Oil of rose ½ oz.
Oil of santal ½ oz.
Oil of vetiver 150 grains.
POUDRE À LA VIOLETTE.
Starch powder 20 lb.
Orris root, in fine powder 10 lb.
Oil of bergamot ¾ oz.
Oil of lemon ¾ oz.
Oil of clove 150 grains.
Oil of neroli 150 grains.
POUDRE BLANCHE SURFINE (POUDRE DE RIZ).
Starch powder 20 lb.
Subnitrate of bismuth 2 lb.
Oil of lemon ¾ oz.
Oil of rose 150 grains.
BLANC DE PERLES SEC (DRY PEARL WHITE).
Venetian chalk 20 lb.
Subnitrate of bismuth 42 oz.
Zinc white 42 oz.
Oil of lemon 1½ oz.
ANTI-ODORIN.
Starch powder 1 lb.
Salicylic acid 150 grains.
This mixture, which is best left unperfumed, does excellent service
when used to prevent an offensive odor in stockings or shoes. The
inside of the stockings is dusted with the powder, and every week a
teaspoonful is sprinkled into the shoes.
SKIN GLOSS.
Carbonate of potassium 1¾ oz.
Powdered spermaceti 1¾ oz.
Starch powder 1 lb.
Benzoin ¾ oz.
Oil of bitter almond 150 grains.
Mix intimately and preserve in well-closed boxes. For use, stir some
into water.
KALODERM.
Wheat flour 4 lb.
Almond bran 1 lb.
Orris root, in fine powder 1 lb.
Extract of rose 1 pint.
Glycerin 6 fl. oz.
Form into a dough which is thinned with water and painted on the skin.
MUSK PASTE (FOR WASHING THE HANDS).
Powdered white soap 2 lb.
Orris root, in fine powder ½ lb.
Starch powder 1½ oz.
Oil of lemon ¾ oz.
Oil of neroli 150 grains.
Tincture of musk 1½ fl. oz.
Glycerin 12 fl. oz.
Rub the starch with the glycerin in a mortar until they are thoroughly
mixed. Then transfer the mixture to a porcelain capsule and apply a
heat gradually raised to 284° F. (and not exceeding 290° F.), stirring
constantly, until the starch granules are completely dissolved, and a
translucent jelly is formed. Then gradually incorporate with it the
powdered soap and orris root, and lastly the oils and tincture.