CHAPTER IX.

THE ADULTERATIONS OF ESSENTIAL OILS AND THEIR RECOGNITION.

We find it necessary to devote a special chapter to the adulterations

of the commercial essential oils because an experience of many years

has shown us that hardly any other group of products is subject to

so many sophistications as essential oils. The high price of most

aromatic substances and the difficulty of recognizing the adulteration

furnish an inviting field to the unscrupulous manufacturer. In the

best interest of the perfumer, therefore, we advise the purchase of

essential oils only from renowned reliable houses, even at higher

prices, for the cheap commercial products are almost worthless, since

they are almost without exception adulterated.

The adulterations are very manifold. Some expensive oils are mixed

with cheaper ones having a similar odor—for instance, oil of rose with

oil of geranium or oil of geranium grass; oil of orange flowers with

the oil from Philadelphus coronarius; oil of verbena with oil of lemon

grass; oils of caraway, anise, and fennel with oil of turpentine; oil

of cinnamon with oil of cassia, etc. Besides these, other deceptions

are practised—for instance, oil of anise is mixed with oil of

turpentine and in order to make the mixture congeal readily (which is

the characteristic of true oil of anise, as above stated) paraffin

or spermaceti is added. A similar practice prevails with adulterated

oil of rose and other viscid oils. Oil of bitter almond we have found

adulterated with or entirely replaced by nitrobenzol, etc.

The demonstration of the adulteration of an essential oil by chemical

means offers many difficulties. We devote particular attention to

the physical characteristics, for experience has shown us that the

olfactory organ—provided it is very expert—is often able to determine

the genuineness of any aromatic substance when other tests have given

only uncertain results, or can give certain results only in the hands

of experts. To make this test, however, quite reliable, it is necessary

to be familiar with the substances in their pure unadulterated

condition.

The manufacturer of perfumery, therefore, should spare neither trouble

nor pecuniary sacrifices to obtain possession of absolutely genuine

specimens of those essential oils, even in minute quantities, which

he intends to employ. Such samples should be carefully preserved

(protected from heat, evaporation, daylight, etc.) for the purpose of

immediate comparison with the oils to be purchased.

As above stated, the physical properties of the essential oils

usually furnish the means of recognizing their purity, and these give

more reliable results to the practical perfumer than the chemical

tests. The most valuable points are furnished by the boiling-point,

the congealing-point, and the density of the oils. The following

table gives the boiling and congealing points of the most important

essential oils in degrees of the centigrade thermometer, together with

the density (or specific gravity); where two figures are given, they

indicate the extreme limits found in genuine samples.

Special characteristics of some essential oils with reference to their

action at low temperatures or their melting-point are given in the

column “Remarks.”

Oil of turpentine, paraffin, wax, and spermaceti being frequently used

for the adulteration of essential oils, have been included in the table.

If accurate results are aimed at in the examination of an essential

oil according to this table, the specific gravity should be determined

by means of a scale sensitive to one one-thousandth gram, and the

thermometer should be graduated to the tenth of a degree.

TABLE SHOWING THE APPROXIMATE DENSITY, BOILING AND CONGEALING POINTS

OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ESSENTIAL OILS USED IN PERFUMERY.

—————————————————+—————————————+—————————-+————————————-+—————————————

| | Boiling- | Congealing- |

Essential Oil | Density. | Point, | Point, | Remarks.

of | | Deg. C. | Deg. C. |

—————————————————+—————————————+—————————-+————————————-+—————————————

Absinth | 0·895 | ... | ... |

Anise | 0·980 | ... | +10-15 |

Bergamot | 0·850-0·890 | 188 | -24 |

Bitter almond | 1·040 | 180 | ... |

Do., art. | | | |

(nitrobenzol) | 1·866 | 213 | +3 |

Cajuput | 0·880 | ... | ... |

Calamus | 0·962 | ... | ... |

Camomile | 0·924 | 160-210 | ... |

Camphor (Borneo) | ... | 212 | ... | Melts at 198

" (Chinese) | 0·985 | 205 | ... | Melts at 175

Caraway | 0·960 | 195 | ... |

Cassia | 1·060 | 252-255 | ... |

Cedar wood | ... | 264 | -22 |

Cinnamon | 1·030-1·035 | 240 | below -25 |

" leaf | 1·053 | ... | ... |

Clove | 1·034-1·055 | 248 | below 20 | Forms

| | | | crystals -16

Coriander | 0·871 | 150-200 | ... |

Crispmint | 0·978 | ... | ... |

Cubeb | 0·880 | ... | ... |

Fennel | 0·960-0·980 | ... | +8 |

Gaultheria | 1·173 | 224 | ... |

Geranium | 0·895 | 216-220 | ... | Forms

| | | | crystals -16

Hyssop | 0·889 | ... | ... |

Juniper | 0·870 | ... | ... |

Lavender | 0·870-0·940 | 186-192 | ... |

Spike-lavender | ... | 140 | ... |

Lemon | 0·850-0·870 | 177-250 | ... |

" grass | 0·870-0·898 | 220 | -22 |

Limetta | 0·931 | ... | ... |

Mace | 0·890-0·950 | ... | ... |

Marjoram | 0·890-0·920 | 163 | ... |

Melissa | 0·855 | ... | ... |

Neroli | 0·889-0·889 | 175 | ... | Forms

| | | | crystals -16

Nutmeg | 0·880-0·948 | 172 | ... |

" butter | ... | ... | 31 |

Olibanum | ... | 162 | ... |

Orange, bitter | 0·830-0·860 | 176 | ... |

" sweet | 0·840-0·850 | 176 | ... |

Parsley | 1·015 | ... | ... |

Patchouly | 0·950-1·012 | 282-294 | ... |

Peppermint | 0·902-0·930 | 188-212 | ... |

Portugal | | | |

(orange peel) | 0·840-0·850 | 176 | ... |

Rose | 0·832 | 229 | +14-20 |

Rosemary | 0·895-0·916 | 185 | ... |

Rue | 0·911 | ... | ... |

Sage | 0·902 | ... | ... |

Santal | 0·950-0·980 | 288 | -22 |

Sassafras | 1·082 | ... | ... |

Serpyllum | 0·890-0·920 | ... | ... |

Star-anise | 0·982 | ... | ... |

Thyme | 0·870-0·940 | 170-180 | ... |

Vanilla | ... | 150 | 76 |

Vetiver | 1·007 | 286 | ... |

Wintergreen | 1·180 | 220 | ... |

Ylang-ylang | 0·980 | ... | ... |

Turpentine | 0·855-0·870 | 160 | ... |

Paraffin | 0·870 | ... | ... |Melts at 50-65

Wax | 0·960-0·970 | ... | ... |Melts at 65-70

Spermaceti | 0·943 | ... | ... |Melts at 45-50

—————————————————+—————————————+—————————-+————————————-+—————————————

In buying essential oils, except it be from a house whose reputation is

a guaranty of their genuineness, it is to the interest of the perfumer

to make a test. He must look for certain substances which are generally

used for the sophistication of essential oils. These are: A. Other

essential oils; B. Fixed oils; C. Alcohol; D. Paraffin, spermaceti,

wax.

A. ADULTERATION OF ESSENTIAL OILS WITH OTHER ESSENTIAL OILS.

This mode of adulteration, which is frequent, is naturally the one

most difficult of demonstration. In the case of cheap oils such as

those of caraway, lemon, orange peel, etc., rectified oil of turpentine

is almost without exception the adulterant. The methods usually

recommended, such as attempting to dissolve out the oil of turpentine

by strong alcohol, hoping thus to separate it from the essential oil,

are without practical value.

The adulteration can, however, often be demonstrated by rubbing a drop

of the suspected oil on a glass plate and testing the odor, provided

the olfactory organ is trained. As the above table shows, the oils

have different high boiling-points, while oil of turpentine boils at a

rather low temperature, hence it evaporates sooner than the others and

can be demonstrated by its odor.

The demonstration of an adulteration with an essential oil is most

certain by so-called fractional distillation. Some of the oil to be

examined (about four to six fluidrachms) is placed in a small retort

with condenser and heated to a temperature a few degrees below the

boiling-point of the oil in question. If, for instance, oil of bergamot

adulterated with oil of turpentine is to be tested, it is heated

carefully to nearly 188° C. (370° F.), the boiling-point of the oil of

bergamot; the oil of turpentine which boils at 160° C. (320° F.) passes

over completely, while the oil of bergamot remains in the retort.

Fractional distillation is also the most reliable way of demonstrating

an adulteration with a fixed oil or with paraffin, wax, or spermaceti.

An adulteration of oil of lavender with oil of spike-lavender, which

is otherwise barely recognizable, is positively shown by this method;

even oil of geranium in oil of rose, oil of cassia in oil of cinnamon,

etc., may be thus demonstrated.

B. ADULTERATION OF ESSENTIAL OILS WITH FIXED OILS.

An addition of fixed oils can be easily demonstrated by agitation of

the oil with strong alcohol in which the essential oil dissolves,

while the fixed oil remains unchanged. Castor oil, however, is

likewise soluble in alcohol and for this reason is frequently used

for the adulteration of essential oils. Yet the presence of a fixed

oil can also be shown in a very simple manner by placing a drop of

the suspected oil upon white paper and leaving it for some hours in

a warm spot. If the oil was pure, the translucent stain on the paper

will disappear completely (also when the oil was adulterated with

turpentine); but if it was mixed with a fixed oil, the stain will

remain permanently and cannot be removed from the paper even by strong

heat.

C. ADULTERATION WITH ALCOHOL.

This frequent adulteration is demonstrated either by fractional

distillation, when the alcohol passes over first between 70° and 80° C.

(158° and 176° F.), or by the use of the vessel illustrated in Fig. 31,

which is divided into 100 equal parts.

[Illustration: FIG. 31.]

The vessel is filled to the tenth division with the oil to be tested,

and water is added to bring the volume to the 50 mark. If alcohol is

present, it is taken up by the water so that the volume of oil appears

to diminish. If the oil reaches to the mark 7, it contained three

volumes of alcohol, or in other words it was mixed with thirty per cent

of alcohol. It is true, essential oils likewise dissolve somewhat in

water, but in such minute quantities as not to affect the success of

the test.

D. ADULTERATION WITH PARAFFIN, SPERMACETI, OR WAX.

This mode of adulteration is practised mainly with viscid oils which

congeal at rather high temperatures, such as oils of anise, rose, etc.,

the essential oils being usually mixed at the same time with oil of

turpentine or paraffin. The fraud is easily detected by fractional

distillation.

Oil of bitter almonds is often adulterated with oil of mirbane; this

can be demonstrated by shaking 1 volume of the oil with 17 volumes

of alcohol of 45%, and setting the mixture aside to settle. The

nitrobenzol (oil of mirbane) will then collect at the bottom. Oil of

Rose may be tested as follows: Mix the oil with an equal quantity of

concentrated sulphuric acid. Neither the color nor the odor of the oil

should be changed, but if oil of geranium was present a disagreeable

odor and a darker color is produced.

It has been proposed, too, to test the oils by heating with iodine

or nitric acid and determining the purity by the reaction; but the

results with the different oils are so similar that the test is

almost worthless. We have had the same experience with the test by

nitro-prusside of copper which on being heated with essential oils

gives colored precipitates differing with various oils, but still so

similar that they cannot be relied upon. We have found in all cases

that a comparison of an oil with a sample of known purity is the best,

or else the tests given in the preceding pages.

Perfumes and their preparation · 第 9 / 31 章