The first thing to be done by any port which wishes its tides to be

predicted is to set up a tide-gauge, or automatic recorder, and keep it

working for a year or two. The tide-gauge is easy enough to understand:

it marks the height of the tide at every instant by an irregular curved

line like a barometer chart (Fig. 117). These observational curves so

obtained have next to be fed into a fearfully complex machine, which it

would take a whole lecture to make even partially intelligible, but Fig.

118 shows its aspect. It consists of ten integrating machines in a row,

coupled up and working together. This is the "harmonic analyzer," and

the result of passing the curve through this machine is to give you all

the constituents of which it is built up, viz. the lunar tide, the solar

tide, and eight of the sub-tides or disturbances. These ten values are

then set off into a third machine, the tide-predicter proper. The

general mode of action of this machine is not difficult to understand.

It consists of a string wound over and under a set of pulleys, which are

each set on an excentric, so as to have an up-and-down motion. These

up-and-down motions are all different, and there are ten of these

movable pulleys, which by their respective excursions represent the

lunar tide, the solar tide, and the eight disturbances already analyzed

out of the tide-gauge curve by the harmonic analyzer. One end of the

string is fixed, the other carries a pencil which writes a trace on a

revolving drum of paper--a trace which represents the combined motion of

all the pulleys, and so predicts the exact height of the tide at the

place, at any future time you like. The machine can be turned quite

quickly, so that a year's tides can be run off with every detail in

about half-an-hour. This is the easiest part of the operation. Nothing

has to be done but to keep it supplied with paper and pencil, and turn a

handle as if it were a coffee-mill instead of a tide-mill. (Figs. 119

and 120.)

[Illustration: FIG. 118.--Harmonic analyzer; for analyzing out the

constituents from a set of observational curves.]

My subject is not half exhausted. I might go on to discuss the question

of tidal energy--whether it can be ever utilized for industrial

purposes; and also the very interesting question whence it comes. Tidal

energy is almost the only terrestrial form of energy that does not

directly or indirectly come from the sun. The energy of tides is now

known to be obtained at the expense of the earth's rotation; and

accordingly our day must be slowly, very slowly, lengthening. The tides

of past ages have destroyed the moon's rotation, and so it always turns

the same face to us. There is every reason to believe that in geologic

ages the moon was nearer to us than it is now, and that accordingly our

tides were then far more violent, rising some hundreds of feet instead

of twenty or thirty, and sweeping every six hours right over the face of

a country, ploughing down hills, denuding rocks, and producing a copious

sedimentary deposit.

[Illustration: FIG. 119.--Tide-predicter, for combining the ascertained

constituents into a tidal curve for the future.]

In thus discovering the probable violent tides of past ages, astronomy

has, within the last few years, presented geology with the most powerful

denuding agent known; and the study of the earth's past history cannot

fail to be greatly affected by the modern study of the intricate and

refined conditions attending prolonged tidal action on incompletely

rigid bodies. [Read on this point the last chapter of Sir R. Ball's

_Story of the Heavens_.]

[Illustration: Fig. 120.--Weekly sheet of curves. Tides for successive

days are predicted on the same sheet of paper, to economise space.]

I might also point out that the magnitude of our terrestrial tides

enables us to answer the question as to the internal fluidity of the

earth. It used to be thought that the earth's crust was comparatively

thin, and that it contained a molten interior. We now know that this is

not the case. The interior of the earth is hot indeed, but it is not

fluid. Or at least, if it be fluid, the amount of fluid is but very

small compared with the thickness of the unyielding crust. All these,

and a number of other most interesting questions, fringe the subject of

the tides; the theoretical study of which, started by Newton, has

developed, and is destined in the future to further develop, into one of

the most gigantic and absorbing investigations--having to do with the

stability or instability of solar systems, and with the construction and

decay of universes.

These theories are the work of pioneers now living, whose biographies it

is therefore unsuitable for us to discuss, nor shall I constantly

mention their names. But Helmholtz, and Thomson, are household words,

and you well know that in them and their disciples the race of Pioneers

maintains its ancient glory.

NOTES FOR LECTURE XVIII

Tides are due to incomplete rigidity of bodies revolving round each

other under the action of gravitation, and at the same time spinning on

their axes.

Two spheres revolving round each other can only remain spherical if

rigid; if at all plastic they become prolate. If either rotate on its

axis, in the same or nearly the same plane as it revolves, that one is

necessarily subject to tides.

The axial rotation tends to carry the humps with it, but the pull of the

other body keeps them from moving much. Hence the rotation takes place

against a pull, and is therefore more or less checked and retarded. This

is the theory of Von Helmholtz.

The attracting force between two such bodies is no longer _exactly_

towards the centre of revolution, and therefore Kepler's second law is

no longer precisely obeyed: the rate of description of areas is subject

to slight acceleration. The effect of this tangential force acting on

the tide-compelling body is gradually to increase its distance from the

other body.

Applying these statements to the earth and moon, we see that tidal

energy is produced at the expense of the earth's rotation, and that the

length of the day is thereby slowly increasing. Also that the moon's

rotation relative to the earth has been destroyed by past tidal action

in it (the only residue of ancient lunar rotation now being a scarcely

perceptible libration), so that it turns always the same face towards

us. Moreover, that its distance from the earth is steadily increasing.

This last is the theory of Professor G.H. Darwin.

Long ago the moon must therefore have been much nearer the earth, and

the day was much shorter. The tides were then far more violent.

Halving the distance would make them eight times as high; quartering it

would increase them sixty-four-fold. A most powerful geological denuding

agent. Trade winds and storms were also more violent.

If ever the moon were close to the earth, it would have to revolve round

it in about three hours. If the earth rotated on its axis in three

hours, when fluid or pasty, it would be unstable, and begin to separate

a portion of itself as a kind of bud, which might then get detached and

gradually pushed away by the violent tidal action. Hence it is possible

that this is the history of the moon. If so, it is probably an

exceptional history. The planets were not formed from the sun in this

way.

Mars' moons revolve round him more quickly than the planet rotates:

hence with them the process is inverted, and they must be approaching

him and may some day crash along his surface. The inner moon is now

about 4,000 miles away, and revolves in 7-1/2 hours. It appears to be

about 20 miles in diameter, and weighs therefore, if composed of rock,

40 billion tons. Mars rotates in 24-1/2 hours.

A similar fate may _possibly_ await our moon ages hence--by reason of

the action of terrestrial tides produced by the sun.

LECTURE XVIII

THE TIDES, AND PLANETARY EVOLUTION

In the last lecture we considered the local peculiarities of the tides,

the way in which they were formed in open ocean under the action of the

moon and the sun, and also the means by which their heights and times

could be calculated and predicted years beforehand. Towards the end I

stated that the subject was very far from being exhausted, and

enumerated some of the large and interesting questions which had been

left untouched. It is with some of these questions that I propose now to

deal.

I must begin by reminding you of certain well-known facts, a knowledge

of which I may safely assume.

And first we must remind ourselves of the fact that almost all the rocks

which form the accessible crust of the earth were deposited by the

agency of water. Nearly all are arranged in regular strata, and are

composed of pulverized materials--materials ground down from

pre-existing rocks by some denuding and grinding action. They nearly all

contain vestiges of ancient life embedded in them, and these vestiges

are mainly of marine origin. The strata which were once horizontal are

now so no longer--they have been tilted and upheaved, bent and

distorted, in many places. Some of them again have been metamorphosed by

fire, so that their organic remains have been destroyed, and the traces

of their aqueous origin almost obliterated. But still, to the eye of the

geologist, all are of aqueous or sedimentary origin: roughly speaking,

one may say they were all deposited at the bottom of some ancient sea.

The date of their formation no man yet can tell, but that it was vastly

distant is certain. For the geological era is not over. Aqueous action

still goes on: still does frost chip the rocks into fragments; still do

mountain torrents sweep stone and mud and _debris_ down the gulleys and

watercourses; still do rivers erode their channels, and carry mud and

silt far out to sea. And, more powerful than any of these agents of

denudation, the waves and the tides are still at work along every

coast-line, eating away into the cliffs, undermining gradually and

submerging acre after acre, and making with the refuse a shingly, or a

sandy, or a muddy beach--the nucleus of a new geological formation.

Of all denuding agents, there can be no doubt that, to the land exposed

to them, the waves of the sea are by far the most powerful. Think how

they beat and tear, and drive and drag, until even the hardest rock,

like basalt, becomes honeycombed into strange galleries and

passages--Fingal's Cave, for instance--and the softer parts are crumbled

away. But the area now exposed to the teeth of the waves is not great.

The fury of a winter storm may dash them a little higher than usual, but

they cannot reach cliffs 100 feet high. They can undermine such cliffs

indeed, and then grind the fragments to powder, but their direct action

is limited. Not so limited, however, as they would be without the tides.

Consider for a moment the denudation import of the tides: how does the

existence of tidal rise and fall affect the geological problem?

The scouring action of the tidal currents themselves is not to be

despised. It is the tidal ebb and flow which keeps open channel in the

Mersey, for instance. But few places are so favourably situated as

Liverpool in this respect, and the direct scouring action of the tides

in general is not very great. Their geological import mainly consists in

this--that they raise and lower the surface waves at regular intervals,

so as to apply them to a considerable stretch of coast. The waves are a

great planing machine attacking the land, and the tides raise and lower

this planing machine, so that its denuding tooth is applied, now twenty

feet vertically above mean level, now twenty feet below.

Making all allowance for the power of winds and waves, currents, tides,

and watercourses, assisted by glacial ice and frost, it must be apparent

how slowly the work of forming the rocks is being carried on. It goes on

steadily, but so slowly that it is estimated to take 6000 years to wear

away one foot of the American continent by all the denuding causes

combined. To erode a stratum 5000 feet thick will require at this rate

thirty million years.

The age of the earth is not at all accurately known, but there are many

grounds for believing it not to be much older than some thirty million

years. That is to say, not greatly more than this period of time has

elapsed since it was in a molten condition. It may be as old as a

hundred million years, but its age is believed by those most competent

to judge to be more likely within this limit than beyond it. But if we

ask what is the thickness of the rocks which in past times have been

formed, and denuded, and re-formed, over and over again, we get an

answer, not in feet, but in miles. The Laurentian and Huronian rocks of

Canada constitute a stratum ten miles thick; and everywhere the rocks at

the base of our stratified system are of the most stupendous volume and

thickness.

It has always been a puzzle how known agents could have formed these

mighty masses, and the only solution offered by geologists was,

unlimited time. Given unlimited time, they could, of course, be formed,

no matter how slowly the process went on. But inasmuch as the time

allowable since the earth was cool enough for water to exist on it

except as steam is not by any means unlimited, it becomes necessary to

look for a far more powerful engine than any now existing; there must

have been some denuding agent in those remote ages--ages far more

distant from us than the Carboniferous period, far older than any forms

of life, fossil or otherwise, ages among the oldest known to geology--a

denuding agent must have then existed, far more powerful than any we now

know.

Such an agent it has been the privilege of astronomy and physics, within

the last ten years, to discover. To this discovery I now proceed to lead

up.

Our fundamental standard of time is the period of the earth's

rotation--the length of the day. The earth is our one standard clock:

all time is expressed in terms of it, and if it began to go wrong, or if

it did not go with perfect uniformity, it would seem a most difficult

thing to discover its error, and a most puzzling piece of knowledge to

utilize when found.

That it does not go much wrong is proved by the fact that we can

calculate back to past astronomical events--ancient eclipses and the

like--and we find that the record of their occurrence, as made by the

old magi of Chaldaea, is in very close accordance with the result of

calculation. One of these famous old eclipses was observed in Babylon

about thirty-six centuries ago, and the Chaldaean astronomers have put on

record the time of its occurrence. Modern astronomers have calculated

back when it should have occurred, and the observed time agrees very

closely with the actual, but not exactly. Why not exactly?

Partly because of the acceleration of the moon's mean motion, as

explained in the lecture on Laplace (p. 262). The orbit of the earth was

at that time getting rounder, and so, as a secondary result, the speed

of the moon was slightly increasing. It is of the nature of a

perturbation, and is therefore a periodic not a progressive or

continuous change, and in a sufficiently long time it will be reversed.

Still, for the last few thousand years the moon's motion has been, on

the whole, accelerated (though there seems to be a very slight retarding

force in action too).

Laplace thought that this fact accounted for the whole of the

discrepancy; but recently, in 1853, Professor Adams re-examined the

matter, and made a correction in the details of the theory which

diminishes its effect by about one-half, leaving the other half to be

accounted for in some other way. His calculations have been confirmed by

Professor Cayley. This residual discrepancy, when every known cause has

been allowed for, amounts to about one hour.

The eclipse occurred later than calculation warrants. Now this

would have happened from either of two causes, either an

acceleration of the moon in her orbit, or a retardation of the

earth in her diurnal rotation--a shortening of the month or a

lengthening of the day, or both. The total discrepancy being, say,

two hours, an acceleration of six seconds-per-century per century

will in thirty-six centuries amount to one hour; and this,

according to the corrected Laplacian theory, is what has occurred.

But to account for the other hour some other cause must be sought,

and at present it is considered most probably due to a steady

retardation of the earth's rotation--a slow, very slow, lengthening

of the day.

The statement that a solar eclipse thirty-six centuries ago was an

hour late, means that a place on the earth's surface came into the

shadow one hour behind time--that is, had lagged one twenty-fourth

part of a revolution. The earth, therefore, had lost this amount in

the course of 3600 x 365-1/4 revolutions. The loss per revolution

is exceedingly small, but it accumulates, and at any era the total

loss is the sum of all the losses preceding it. It may be worth

while just to explain this point further.

Suppose the earth loses a small piece of time, which I will call an

instant, per day; a locality on the earth will come up to a given

position one instant late on the first day after an event. On the

next day it would come up two instants late by reason of the

previous loss; but it also loses another instant during the course

of the second day, and so the total lateness by the end of that day

amounts to three instants. The day after, it will be going slower

from the beginning at the rate of two instants a day, it will lose

another instant on the fresh day's own account, and it started

three instants late; hence the aggregate loss by the end of the

third day is 1 + 2 + 3 = 6. By the end of the fourth day the whole

loss will be 1 + 2 + 3 + 4, and so on. Wherefore by merely losing

one instant every day the total loss in _n_ days is (1 + 2 + 3 +

... + _n_) instants, which amounts to 1/2_n_ (_n_ + 1) instants;

or practically, when _n_ is big, to 1/2n^2. Now in thirty-six

centuries there have been 3600 x 365-1/4 days, and the total loss

has amounted to an hour; hence the length of "an instant," the loss

per diem, can be found from the equation 1/2(3600 x 365)^2 instants

= 1 hour; whence one "instant" equals the 240 millionth part of a

second. This minute quantity represents the retardation of the

earth per day. In a year the aggregate loss mounts up to 1/3600th

part of a second, in a century to about three seconds, and in

thirty-six centuries to an hour. But even at the end of the

thirty-six centuries the day is barely any longer; it is only 3600

x 365 instants, that is 1/180th of a second, longer than it was at

the beginning. And even a million years ago, unless the rate of

loss was different (as it probably was), the day would only be

thirty-five minutes shorter, though by that time the aggregate

loss, as measured by the apparent lateness of any perfectly

punctual event reckoned now, would have amounted to nine years.

(These numbers are to be taken as illustrative, not as precisely

representing terrestrial fact.)

What can have caused the slowing down? Swelling of the earth by reason

of accumulation of meteoric dust might do something, but probably very

little. Contraction of the earth as it goes on cooling would act in the

opposite direction, and probably more than counterbalance the dust

effect. The problem is thus not a simple one, for there are several

disturbing causes, and for none of them are the data enough to base a

quantitative estimate upon; but one certain agent in lengthening the

day, and almost certainly the main agent, is to be found in the tides.

Remember that the tidal humps were produced as the prolateness of a

sphere whirled round and round a fixed centre, like a football whirled

by a string. These humps are pulled at by the moon, and the earth

rotates on its axis against this pull. Hence it tends to be constantly,

though very slightly, dragged back.

In so far as the tidal wave is allowed to oscillate freely, it will

swing with barely any maintaining force, giving back at one

quarter-swing what it has received at the previous quarter; but in so

far as it encounters friction, which it does in all channels where

there is an actual ebb and flow of the water, it has to receive more

than it gives back, and the balance of energy has to be made up to it,

or the tides would cease. The energy of the tides is, in fact,

continually being dissipated by friction, and all the energy so

dissipated is taken from the rotation of the earth. If tidal energy were

utilized by engineers, the machines driven would be really driven at the

expense of the earth's rotation: it would be a mode of harnessing the

earth and using the moon as fixed point or fulcrum; the moon pulling at

the tidal protuberance, and holding it still as the earth rotates, is

the mechanism whereby the energy is extracted, the handle whereby the

friction brake is applied.

Winds and ocean currents have no such effect (as Mr. Fronde in

_Oceania_ supposes they have), because they are all accompanied by

a precisely equal counter-current somewhere else, and no internal

rearrangement of fluid can affect the motion of a mass as a whole;

but the tides are in different case, being produced, not by

internal inequalities of temperature, but by a straightforward pull

from an external body.

The ultimate effect of tidal friction and dissipation of energy will,

therefore, be to gradually retard the earth till it does not rotate with

reference to the moon, _i.e._ till it rotates once while the moon

revolves once; in other words, to make the day and the month equal. The

same cause must have been in operation, but with eighty-fold greater

intensity, on the moon. It has ceased now, because the rotation has

stopped, but if ever the moon rotated on its axis with respect to the

earth, and if it were either fluid itself or possessed any liquid ocean,

then the tides caused by the pull of the earth must have been

prodigious, and would tend to stop its rotation. Have they not

succeeded? Is it not probable that this is _why_ the moon always now

turns the same face towards us? It is believed to be almost certainly

the cause. If so, there was a time when the moon behaved

differently--when it rotated more quickly than it revolved, and

exhibited to us its whole surface. And at this era, too, the earth

itself must have rotated a little faster, for it has been losing speed

ever since.

We have thus arrived at this fact, that a thousand years ago the day was

a trifle shorter than it is now. A million years ago it was, perhaps, an

hour shorter. Twenty million years ago it must have been much shorter.

Fifty million years ago it may have been only a few hours long. The

earth may have spun round then quite quickly. But there is a limit. If

it spun too fast it would fly to pieces. Attach shot by means of wax to

the whirling earth model, Fig. 110, and at a certain speed the cohesion

of the wax cannot hold them, so they fly off. The earth is held together

not by cohesion but by gravitation; it is not difficult to reckon how

fast the earth must spin for gravity at its surface to be annulled, and

for portions to fly off. We find it about one revolution in three hours.

This is a critical speed. If ever the day was three hours long,

something must have happened. The day can never have been shorter than

that; for if it were, the earth would have a tendency to fly in pieces,

or, at least, to separate into two pieces. Remember this, as a natural

result of a three-hour day, which corresponds to an unstable state of

things; remember also that in some past epoch a three-hour day is a

probability.

If we think of the state of things going on in the earth's

atmosphere, if it had an atmosphere at that remote date, we shall

recognize the existence of the most fearful tornadoes. The trade

winds, which are now peaceful agents of commerce, would then be

perpetual hurricanes, and all the denudation agents of the

geologist would be in a state of feverish activity. So, too, would

the tides: instead of waiting six hours between low and high tide,

we should have to wait only three-quarters of an hour. Every

hour-and-a-half the water would execute a complete swing from high

tide to high again.

Very well, now leave the earth, and think what has been happening to the

moon all this while.

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