San Bartolo--Mass--Market--Rancheros--San Andrés--Insanity--Rancho--House
of Don Carlos Heimburger--Wild Scenery--German Songs--Las Millas--Leave-
taking--Storm--Rainbow--El Pilar--La Gabia--Toluca--News--Copper
_Pronunciamiento_----Return to Mexico--General Moran--Funeral Obsequies--
New Theatre--_Cock's Mass_--Santa Clara--Santa Fe Prisoners--New Year.
ANGANGUEO, 14th.
After taking leave of all our hospitable friends in Morelia, we set off in
the afternoon, and had a delightful ride to San Bartolo. Fortunately the
following day (Sunday) was that of the Virgin of Guadalupe, one of the
greatest festivals here; so that we had an opportunity of seeing all the
people from the different villages, who arrived in the courtyard by
daybreak, and held a market in front of the hacienda. Various were the
articles for sale, and picturesque the dresses of the sellers. From cakes,
chile, atole, and ground-nuts, to rebosos and bead rosaries, nothing was
omitted. In one part of the market the sturdy rancheros were drinking
pulque and devouring hot cakes; in another, little boys were bargaining for
nuts and bananas; countrywomen were offering low prices for smart rebosos;
an Indian woman was recommending a comb, with every term of endearment, to
a young country-girl, who seemed perfectly ignorant of its use, assuring
her customer that it was an instrument for unravelling the hair, and making
it beautiful and shining, and enforcing her argument by combing through
some of the girl's tangled locks.
Before breakfast we went to mass in the large chapel of the hacienda. We
and the family went to the choir; and the body of the chapel was filled
with rancheros and their wives. It is impossible to see anywhere a finer
race of men than these rancheros--tall, strong, and well made, with their
embroidered shirts, coarse sarapes, and dark blue pantaloons embroidered in
gold. After mass, the marketing recommenced, and the rebosos had a brisk
sale. A number were bought by the men for their wives, or _novias_, at
home; which reminds me of a story of -----'s of a poor Indian woman in
their village, who desired her husband to buy a _petticoat_ for her in
Mexico, where he was going to sell his vegetables. She particularly
impressed upon him that she wished it to be the _colour of the sky_, which
at sunrise, when he was setting off, was of a flaming red. He returned in
the evening, bringing, to her great indignation, a petticoat of a dusky
gray, which happened to be the colour of the sky when he made his purchase.
In the evening we rode through the fields, the servants and the young
master of the house amusing themselves as they went, by the chasing and
_colear_ of the bulls. They have one small, ugly, yellow-coloured bull,
which they call tame, and which the _mozos_ ride familiarly. They persuaded
me to try this novel species of riding, a man holding the animal's head
with a rope; but I thought that it tossed its horns in a most uncomfortable
and alarming manner, and very soon slipped off. We stopped during our ride,
at a house where the proprietors make a small fortune by the produce of
their numerous beehives; and walked along the banks of a fine clear river,
winding through beautiful and verdant groves.
The next morning by six o'clock we were again on horseback, and took leave
of San Bartolo. We rode by _Yndaparapeo_, a considerable village, with
sloping shingle roofs; and about ten reached Querendaro, breakfasted with
Señor Pimentel, and then continued our journey towards San Andrés, where we
were to pass the night. We had a horse with us which occasionally fell down
on the road, shivering all over, groaning, and apparently dying; but which
had twice recovered from these fits. But this day, having stopped beside a
running stream to water our horses, the unfortunate beast fell again, and
when we had remounted, and were riding forward, a servant galloped after
us, to tell us that the horse was dead at last; so we left him to his
lonely grave by the river's side. Great, therefore, was our amazement,
when, some time after, we perceived him trotting along the road at a great
rate, in pursuit of his party, apparently quite recovered.
We passed the night at San Andrés, a poor _venta_, but clean, consisting of
three empty rooms, a spirit-shop, and a kitchen. Our escort slept in the
piazza, rolled in their sarapes. Our beds were stuck up in the empty rooms,
and we got some supper upon fowl and tortillas. We were interested by the
melancholy air of a poor woman, who sat aloof on the piazza, uncared for,
and noticing no one. We spoke to her, and found that she was insane,
wandering from village to village, and subsisting on charity. She seemed
gentle and harmless, but the very picture of misery, and quite alone in the
world, having lost all her family. But "God tempers the wind to the shorn
lamb." We saw her again in the morning before we set off, and saw her get
some breakfast in the kitchen. The poor people of the _venta_ seemed kind
to her. They who dwell in comfortable houses, surrounded by troops of
friends, and who repine at their lot, would do well to compare it with that
of such a being.
This morning we left San Andrés, and have had a pleasant ride, in spite of
a hard-trotting horse, which fell to my lot. Impossible to conceive more
beautiful scenery than that which we passed through to-day. Some of the
hills have a singular formation, each large hill appearing composed of a
variety of smaller ones, of a pyramidal shape. We rode through Taximaroa
without stopping, and breakfasted at a rancho, where the whole family were
exceedingly handsome. The ranchero himself was a model for a fine-looking
farmer, hospitable and well-bred; knowing his place, yet without any
servility. The rancherita, who was engaged in the kitchen, was so handsome,
that we made every possible excuse for going to look at her.
About four o'clock we once more crossed the hills and came down upon the
plains by which we left Angangueo; and passed over a river as red as blood,
that looked as if hostile armies had been engaged in fierce combat by its
banks, and their bodies rolled in the tide. This ensanguined hue is,
however, caused, not by warlike steel, but by peaceful copper; not peaceful
in its effects, by the way, at this moment, for the whole country, more or
less, is in commotion on the subject of copper coin.
You must know, that some few years ago, the value of copper was suddenly
reduced by law to one half, causing a great loss to all, but much distress
to the poor. The intrinsic value of the copper, however, bore so little
relation to the value given to it, that it was a very productive business
to counterfeit it, of which many unprincipled individuals availed
themselves to such an extent, that it had almost become an openly exercised
branch of industry all through the republic. When Santa Anna became
provisional president, he ordered that all the copper coin, whose currency
was now reduced to six or eight per cent. below par, should be given in to
certain deposits which he named, promising to repay it in genuine coin of
real value. But this naturally caused a still greater depreciation,
bringing it down as low as sixty per cent.; and still greater discontent,
the people having little faith in the promise, and, in fact, the payment
could not be made at the appointed time, because there were not sufficient
coining machines; and as the few new cents that did circulate, were said
not to contain their real value, the distress became greater than ever. The
merchants refused to receive copper, and there was no silver or small
change. In the mean time, in many of the large haciendas, the proprietors
have given checks to the workmen, with which they have been able to buy
what they required at the shops, which are attached to these haciendas.
The amount of the copper in circulation cannot be calculated, for it is
almost all counterfeit. It is supposed, however, to be at least from eight
to nine millions of dollars. You may easily imagine the fortunes that will
be made (and as they say are being made) by those of the government party,
who are buying up for sixty, what will be paid them by favour of the
government at the rate of a hundred.
We rode up the hills that lead to the house of Don Carlos Heimbürger, and
were again hospitably received by him and his German friends. Nothing can
have a finer effect than the view from the piazza of his house in the
evening, looking down upon the valley. The piazza itself has a screen of
green creepers, which have the effect of a curtain of a theatre half drawn
up. Behind the house rises a dark frowning hill, in the form of a pyramid.
In front is the deep ravine, with the huts of the workmen, and while the
moon throws her quivering beams over the landscape, the metallic fires of
livid blue light up the valley. There is something wild and diabolic in the
scene; and as the wind howls round the valley with a dismal sound, it seems
as if one were looking on at some unholy, magical incantation; so that it
is pleasant to return after a while to the comfortable rooms and cheerful
fires within, which have so homely and domestic an air. We hope to spend
to-morrow here, and the following day to go on to Toluca, from whence I
shall continue my letter.
TOLUCA, 19th.
The next day we visited the works, which are like all others, excepting
that here they do not use quicksilver to extract the silver from the lead,
but do so by the process of oxidation, by the means of a reverberatory
furnace. The people generally have an unhealthy appearance, as nearly all
have who are engaged in these works--the air being loaded with particles of
metal. After visiting the mills and the sheds where the process of
oxidation is carried on, and admiring the metallic riches of these
mountains, we left the hot and poisoned atmosphere, and walked up the
mountains clothed with a hardy vegetation--with every noble tree and
flowering shrub--and pursued our course till we came to a fine waterfall,
which plunges from a great height over the gigantic rocks.
The scenery here is rude and wild. The great rocks are covered with hardy
trees--the pine, the cedar, the oak, and the flowering laurel. The river,
after dashing down in this noble cascade, runs brawling amongst the
forest-clothed hills, till it reaches the plains, and flows on placidly. We
spent an agreeable day, wandering amongst the mountains; and when we
returned sat on the piazza, to watch the moon as her broad disk rose over
the valley, and the fierce blue lights that made her mild fires grow pale.
All Germans are musical, and the gentlemen in this house did not belie the
national reputation. After dinner, a bright fire blazing, doors and windows
shutting out the cold air that whistled along the hills, they struck up in
chorus some of the finest national airs, particularly the Hymn to the
Rhine--so that it seemed an illusion that we were in this wild, mining
district, inhabited only by the poorest Indians; and we were transported
thousands of miles off, across the broad Atlantic, even to the land where
"The castled crag of Drachenfels
Frowns o'er the broad and winding Rhine."
We also amused ourselves by examining Madame B----'s Album; and if those
milk-and-water volumes, belonging to young ladies, where young gentlemen
write prettinesses, be called Albums, some other name should be found for a
book where some of the most distinguished artists in Germany have left
proofs of their talent, and where there is not one page which does not
contain something striking and original. Nothing pleased me so much as the
fanciful illustration of the beautiful legend of _Lorelei_, which Madame
B---- read to us with great feeling. We became too comfortable here for
hardy equestrian travellers, and had we staid much longer should have begun
to complain of tough fowls, beds in barns, and other inconveniences, which
we had hitherto laughed at; but we tore ourselves away from our Capua, and
on the morning of the sixteenth set off for _El Pilar_.
Don Carlos Heimburger, M. and Madame B----, etc., accompanied us for seven
leagues, all through the woods. We had a delightful ride, the day was cool
and cloudy, and we were besides, constantly shaded by the noble forest
trees. But we had not reached Las Millas before the sky was overcast, the
clouds became black and gloomy, and at length broke out in rain. We
galloped fast, for the day, besides being rainy, was cold; and in the
afternoon reached Las Millas. Here we breakfasted in the little portico,
which we preferred to the interior of the cottage, chiefly upon tortillas
and boiled _tejocotes_, a fruit which grows in great abundance, and
resembles a small apple. Here again were two Indian girls of admirable
beauty, _dans leur genre_, baking tortillas. We were now obliged to part
from our kind German friends, and to ride across the plains. But had not
gone more than halfway, when the clouds burst forth in torrents, pouring
their fury on our devoted heads, so that in five minutes we were all
drenched as if we had fallen into a river. We took shelter for a little
while under a solitary spreading tree, but the storm increased in violence,
and it was advisable to gallop forwards, in order to arrive at El Pilar
before it became dark. Suddenly, the most beautiful rainbow I ever beheld
smiled out from amongst the watery clouds. It formed a complete and
well-defined arch of the most brilliant colours in the heavens, reflected
by another on the plains, which, uniting with it, blended its fainter hues
with the light of the heavenly bow.
We arrived at El Pilar tired and drenched, and greatly in need of the
hospitable reception which was given to us by its mistress.
The following morning we set off early for _La Gabia_, feeling some regret
that our journey was drawing to a close. Some of us, who rode in front,
found ourselves surrounded by several suspicious-looking, well-armed men on
horseback, who, under pretence of asking some questions, rode very close to
us, and then stopped and faced round on their horses--but there was no
danger, our escort being at a short distance, and when they observed its
approach, they bestowed no further attention upon us. Don Xavier
Hechavarria had returned to Mexico, but we were cordially welcomed by his
brother-in-law, Don Manuel Gorospe, and so kindly pressed to remain some
days, that nothing but our limited time would have induced us to set off
next morning for Toluca. Here we arrived last night, having performed our
journey by a different and more agreeable road than that of the "three
hundred barrancas." We entered Toluca by moonlight, and found that
respectable city all in commotion on the subject of copper; presenting a
very different aspect from the quiet and conventual air of repose which
distinguished it little more than a month ago. Yesterday Colonel Y----, who
has accompanied us during all this journey, left us, to return to
Michoacán, having thus brought us back in safety to the point from which we
started.
We are spending a very tiresome day in the inn, which, however, is a more
decent place, and belongs to a better line of coaches than the other. We
have been enlivened by several visits, amongst others, from the commandant,
and from an aide-de-camp of General Valencia's. For the first time since we
left it, we have news from Mexico. Santa Anna, _dit-on_, is now Dictator or
King, in all but the name; affecting more than royal pomp, yet endeavouring
by his affability to render himself popular. Above all, he has made known
his determination of not seizing an inch of ground belonging to the clergy;
which seizure of church property was the favourite idea of Paredes and the
_progresistas_. This resolution he has not printed, probably in order not
to disgust that party, but his personal declaration to the archbishop and
the padres of the Profesa, and in a letter to the bishop of Puebla, is,
that he will not only leave their property untouched, but that, were he out
of power, he would draw his sword in their defence--for that, good or bad,
he is a sincere Catholic. This has done much to re-establish him in the
good opinion of the clergy, and it is said that in every convent in Mexico,
monks and nuns are now wearying Heaven with prayers in his behalf. In
short, the conquerors and the conquered, those of the Progress, and those
of the Dictatorship, seem all, barring a few noble exceptions, actuated by
one motive; personal interest.
Count C---a is restored to the command of his battalion _del Comercio_,
which has been re-established (it having deserted to the federalists in the
last revolution). It appears that the president's favourite plan is to have
thirty thousand men under arms; and there is little doubt that he will
bring this about. Sixteen new generals have been created; and General
Tornel is made a General of Division. The Señora V---a has given a ball, at
which she and other ladies appeared with trains, rehearsing, as it would
seem, before the court drawing-rooms. I was told, and by good authority,
that the present sent by Santa Anna to the lady of the commander-in-chief
on her birth-day, was a box containing three general's belts, with a
request that she would bestow them on those whom she considered most
deserving of them; and that the lady herself buckled the sashes on her
favoured knights, in her own boudoir. Thus was valour rewarded by the hand
of beauty; and
"Thus should desert in arms be crowned."
Meanwhile the master of the house presents himself with a disturbed and
gloomy countenance, and doubts much whether we can have any dinner to-day,
because no one will sell anything, either for copper or silver; moreover
hints darkly that they expect a _copper pronuniciamiento_ to-morrow; and
observes that the shops are shut up.
Since we could get no dinner, we went out to take a walk; and methinks the
Tolucanos have a fierce and agitated aspect. We attempted to go to mass
this morning, but there was a congregation of léperos, who filled not only
the church, but the whole enclosure and the street beyond, so that we could
not even approach the church door. Unfortunately we cannot get a diligence
until the 21st.
They have brought us at last, I will not say dinner--but something to eat.
20th.--This morning, the firing of squibs, the beating of drums, the
shouting and confusion on the streets, announced that the ragamuffin
population of Toluca had turned out; and going to the balcony, I very
nearly received the salutation of
"A sky-Rocket in my eye."
Orders have been given out by the alcalde, that copper shall be received in
payment by the merchants, some of whom have declared they will only receive
silver. A large mob has collected before the alcalde's door, with shouts of
"Viva la plata! Muerta al cobre!" (Long live silver! Death to copper!)
--apostrophizing these useful metals, as if they were two generals.
The merchants have issued a declaration, that during three days only, they
will sell their goods for copper (of course at an immense advantage to
themselves). The Indians and the poorer classes are now rushing to the
shops, and buying goods, receiving in return for their copper about half
its value. If Santa Anna keeps his word, the _patriotism_ of the merchants
will be rewarded.
C---n has just had a visit from one of the merchants, who wishes his
conduct to be represented in a proper light in Mexico.
MEXICO, 22nd.
With much joy we stepped into the diligence early yesterday morning,
accompanied by the commandant of Toluca, and retraced our road to Mexico;
for though Toluca is a fine city, with clean, airy houses, wide,
well-paved streets, and picturesque in its situation, there is something
sad and deserted in its appearance, an air of stagnation that weighs upon
the spirits; and the specimens we have seen of its lower orders are not
inviting. We had rather an agreeable journey, as the day was cool, and we
had the diligence to ourselves. We breakfasted again at Cuajimalpa, took
leave of the interesting _itzcuin tepotzotli_, still hanging from its
hook--and again ascended the eminence from which Mexico suddenly bursts
upon the view, and after a short absence, with all the charms of novelty.
Before we arrived at Tacubaya, we were met by a carriage containing Señor
A---- and his lady, who insisted on our leaving the diligence; and carried
us off to their own house, where we now are. On the second of January we
expect to take our final departure from the "great city of the lake."
December 28th.--Another old year about to chime in! Another Christmas past
away! But during these last few days it has been all in vain to attempt
finishing my letter, between making arrangements for our journey, receiving
and returning visits, going to the opera, and seeing and revisiting all
that we had left unseen or wished to see again before leaving this. People
seem determined that we shall regret them, and load us with kindness and
attentions, the more flattering, that now at least they are entirely
personal, and cannot proceed from any interested motive. We have reason to
think them both steady and sincere in their friendship.
General Moran has died, universally regretted. He has been embalmed
according to the system of _Ganal_, and his funeral was performed with
extraordinary magnificence, the troops out, the foreign Ministers and the
cabinet following on foot, the former in full uniform, and a great train of
carriages reaching along the whole Calle San Francisco, from the church to
the square. The body, dressed in a general's uniform, was carried upon a
splendid bier, and was so perfectly embalmed, that he seemed not dead, nor
even asleep, but lying in an attitude of repose. The expense of this
operation will probably prevent its ever becoming very common; and
certainly there are but few cases where it can be advisable to adopt it. An
_embalmed dynasty_ might be a curious sight. To trace the features of a
royal line, from Charlemagne to Charles X.--from Alfred to William IV.,
would be a strange study. Mary of Scotland and Elizabeth, lying in the
repose of death, yet looking as they lived and hated centuries back, might
be a curious piece of antiquity. A Hernan Cortes--a Washington--a Columbus
--a Napoleon; men, whose memory for good or for evil, will survive time and
change--it would be a strange and wondrous thing, if we could look on their
features as they were in life. But it is to be trusted that this method of
successfully wrestling with the earth for what it claims as its due, will
not generally prevail; or, at the end of a few centuries, the embalmed
population would scarce leave room for their living and breathing
descendants: nor is it an agreeable idea that one might, in a lapse of
ages, grace the study of an antiquary, or be preserved amongst the
curiosities of a museum. I would stuff birds and beasts, and preserve them
in cabinets, but not the remains of immortal man. _Dust unto dust_; and the
eye of faith turned from the perishing remains to the spirit which has gone
to the God who gave it.
The _función_ performed in the general's honour, within the church, was as
magnificent as ecclesiastic and military splendour could render it. We were
in the gallery above. The bier, placed on a lofty scaffolding, covered with
black velvet and lighted with wax tapers, was placed near the altar. The
music was solemn and impressive. Every respect has been shown to the
deceased general, by Santa Anna's orders. Excepting the _corps
diplomatique_ and the officers, all within the church were in deep
mourning....
The chief difficulty we have in arranging our affairs here, consists in the
perfect impossibility of persuading any tradesman to keep his word. They
name the day, the hour, the minute, at which they are to be with you, or at
which certain goods are to be sent to you. They are affronted if you doubt
their punctuality, and the probability is, you never hear of them or their
goods again. If they are not exact for their own interest, they will not be
so for yours; and although we have had frequent proofs of this
carelessness, we are particularly annoyed by it now that we are within a
few days of our departure. During our residence here we have had little to
do with shops and shopkeepers, having found it more convenient and
economical to send to Paris or even to the United States for all articles
of dress. Now, though everything must still be comparatively dear, the _bad
times_ have caused a great reduction in prices; and dear as all goods are,
they would be still dearer, were it not for the quantity that is smuggled
into the republic. There are an amazing number of French shopkeepers;
French tailors, hatters, shoemakers, apothecaries, etc.; but especially
French modistes and perruquiers. The charges of the former are exorbitant,
the latter are little employed except by gentlemen. There are also many
Spanish shops, some German, and a few English; but I think the French
preponderate.
We went some time ago to see the _Monte Pio_, which is under the auspices
of Señor Tagle; and it is melancholy enough to see the profusion of fine
diamonds and pearls that are displayed in these large halls. After a
certain time has elapsed without their being redeemed, the pledged articles
are sold; gold and silver, in whatever form, by the weight, but jewels for
their intrinsic value. There is a sale once a week. We were shown privately
the jewels of the Virgen de los Remedios; which are very superb.
There is a small theatre lately established, called the Theatre of _New
Mexico_, where there is a Spanish company, the same whom we saw two years
ago in Vera Cruz. They are drawing away various persons from the principal
theatre. Their object seems to be to make people laugh, and they succeed.
On Christmas-eve we went there to see the _gracioso_ (harlequin) in a
woman's dress, dance _Tripili_, an old Spanish dance, accompanied with
singing. They introduced some appropriate lines concerning the late
troubles about the _copper_, which were received with great applause. Just
as they were concluding the Tripili, a young gentleman in the pit, I do not
know whether Mexican or Spanish, rose, and waving his hand after the manner
of a man about to make an address, and requesting attention, kindly
favoured the audience with some verses of his own, which were received with
great good-nature; the actors bowing to him, and the pit applauding him. It
seemed to me a curious piece of philanthropy on his part.
At midnight we went to the church of Santa Clara, to attend what is called
the _Misa del Gallo_, the Cock's Mass; which is private,--only respectable
persons being admitted by a private entrance; for midnight mass in Mexico
takes place with shut doors, as all nightly reunions are dreaded. Santa
Clara being attached to the convent of that name, we remained after mass to
see the white-robed sisters receive the sacrament from the hands of a
priest, by the small side-door that opens from the convent to the church.
The church was lighted, but the convent was in darkness; and looking in
through the grating, we could only distinguish the outline of their
kneeling figures, enveloped in their white drapery and black veils. I do
not think there were a dozen persons in the church besides ourselves.
A good deal of interest has been excited here lately about the Texian
prisoners taken in the Santa Fe expedition, the first detachment of whom
have arrived, after a march of nearly two thousand miles, and are now
lodged in the convent of Santiago, about two miles from the centre of the
city. As their situation is represented to be very miserable, and as it is
said that they have been stripped of their hats, shoes, and coats; some of
the Mexican families, and amongst others, that of Don Francisco Tagle,
regardless of political enmity, have subscribed to send them a supply of
linen and other necessary articles, which they carried out there
themselves. Being invited to accompany them to Santiago, I did so; and we
found the common men occupying the courtyard, and the officers the large
hall of the convent. So far they have been treated as prisoners of war
generally are; but it is said to be the intention of Santa Anna to have
them put in chains, and sent out to sweep the streets, with the miserable
prisoners of the Acordada. Colonel C----, who was presented to me, seemed
to treat the whole affair very lightly, as the fortune of war; and had
evidently no idea that any such fate was in store for them; seeming rather
amused by the dress of the monks, whom he now saw for the first time. In
the Mexicans generally, there seems very little if any vindictive feeling
against them; on the contrary, a good deal of interest in their favour,
mingled with some curiosity to see them. The common men appeared more
impatient and more out of spirits than the officers. We shall probably know
nothing more of their fate, before leaving Mexico.
We had some intention of paying a last visit to the Museum before we went;
and Don José María Bustamante, a friend of ours, professor of botany, and
considered a man of learning, was prepared to receive us; but we were
prevented from going. I must, however, find time to answer your question as
to the population. The Mexican republic is supposed to contain upwards of
seven millions of inhabitants; the capital, two hundred thousand. Their
number cannot be exactly fixed, as there has been no general census for
some time; a labour in which a commission, with Count Cortina at its head,
has been employed for some time past, and the result of which will be
published shortly. All other questions must be replied to _de vive voix_.
I must now conclude my last letter written from this place; for we are
surrounded by visitors, day and night; and, to say the truth, feel that it
is only the prospect of returning to our family, which can counterbalance
the unfeigned regret we feel at leaving our friends in Mexico. My next
letter will most probably be dated from Vera Cruz.