LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST

Gambling--Fête at San Agustin--Breakfast at San Antonio--Report--Cock-

fight--Ladies--Private Gambling--A _Vaca_--The _Calvario_--Bonnets--

Dinner--Evening Ball--Mingling of Classes--Copper Tables--Dresses and

Decorations--Indian Bankers, Male and Female--Decorum-Habit--Holders of

Banks--Female Gambler--Robbery--Anecdote--Bet--_Casa de Moneda_--Leave San

Angel--Celebration--Address--Cross and Diploma--Reply--Presentation of a

Sword--Discourses and Addresses--Reflections.

10th June.

One year since I last wrote of San Agustin! An entire year has fled swiftly

away on rushing pinions, to add its unit to the rolling century. And again,

on a bright morning in June, we set off for the hospitable San Antonio,

where we were invited to breakfast and to pass the night on the second day

of the fête. We found a very brilliant party assembled; the family with all

its branches, the Ex-Minister Cuevas, with his handsome sister-in-law, La

Guera Rodriguez, with one of her beautiful granddaughters (daughter of the

Marquis of G---e), now making her first appearance in Mexico, and various

other agreeable people. The first day of the fête, a rumour was afloat that

an attack was to be made on the banks by the federal party; that they

expected to procure the sinews of war to the extent of a million of

dollars, and then intended to raise a _grito_ in Mexico, taking advantage

of the temporary absence of the president and his officers. The plan seemed

rather feasible, and the report, true or false, was current yesterday; but

if there was any truth in it, the discovery has been made in time, for

nothing has occurred. San Agustin appeared even gayer and more crowded than

it was last year. We spent the day at the E----s, and went with them to a

box in the plaza to see the cock-fight, which I had no particular pleasure,

I must confess, in witnessing again, but went for the sake of those who had

not seen it before. The general _coup d'ceil_ was exceeding gay, and the

improvement in the dress of the ladies since last year very striking. There

were neither diamonds nor pearls among the most fashionable. The bonnets

were chiefly Parisian, as were many of the gowns. One box looked a

veritable parterre of flowers. The ladies of our party wore dresses and

bonnets as simple, fresh, and elegant as could be seen in any part of the

world. A young and titled heiress, newly arrived from her distant estates,

wore pink satin with a white hat and feathers, and we observed, that

according to the ancient San Agustin fashion, she changed her dress four or

five times a day. But the ladies may dress and may smile, and may look

their very best; they are little thought of this day, in comparison with

the one all-powerful, all-pervading object. It is even whispered that one

cause of the more than usual crowd at San Agustin this year, is that many

failures are expected in mercantile houses, and that the heads of these

houses or their agents are here on the desperate hope of retrieving their

falling fortunes.

A good deal of play on a small scale goes on in the private houses, among

those who do not take much part in the regular gambling; but all are

interested more or less; even strangers, even ladies, even ourselves.

Occasional news is brought in, and received with deep interest of the state

of the banks, of the losses or gains of the different individuals, or of

the result of the _vacas_, (a sort of general purse into which each puts in

two or three ounces,) by different stragglers from the gambling-houses, who

have themselves only ventured a few ounces, and who prefer the society of

ladies to that of the Monte players. These are generally foreigners, and

chiefly English.

We found the road to the _Calvario_, where, as usual, there was a ball in

the afternoon, blocked up with carriages, and the hill itself covered with

gay figures; who were dancing as well as the tremendous crowd would permit.

This was really tolerably republican. The women generally were dressed as

the better classes of Mexicans used to be, years ago, and not so many years

neither (and as many in the country, still are) in blonde dresses, with

very short petticoats, open silk stockings and white satin shoes; and such

a collection of queer bonnets has probably never been seen since the days

when _les Anglaises pour rire_ first set foot on Gallic shores. Some were

like small steeples, others resembled helmets, some were like sugar-loaves,

and most seemed to have been set on, for convenience-sake, all the way out.

Amidst these there was a good sprinkling of pretty Herbaults and Paris

dresses, but they belonged to the more fashionable classes. The scene was

amusing from its variety, but we did not remain long, as it threatened

rain. As we looked back, the crowd on the hill presented the appearance of

a bed of butterflies dancing with black ants.

We returned to the -----'s to dinner, which was very handsome, and entirely

French. There were about twenty-eight persons at table, some of them looked

as if they had rather lost than otherwise. After dinner--music and

conversation on the events and probabilities of the day, till it was time

to dress for the ball at the Plaza. We, however, preferred going to a box,

which saves the trouble of dressing, besides being "_de mucho tono_," very

fashionable; but when we arrived, not a box was to be had, the crowd was so

great, and there were so many people of _tono_, besides ourselves, who had

preferred doing the same thing; so we were obliged to content ourselves

with retreating to a third row of benches on the floor, after persuading at

least a dozen of very good-natured women to turn out, in order to let us

in. We were afterwards joined by the ----- Minister and his wife. The ball

looked very gay, and was prodigiously crowded, and exceedingly amusing.

There were people of all classes; _modistes_ and carpenters, shop-boys,

tailors, hatters, and hosiers, mingled with all the _haut ton_ of Mexico.

Every shop-boy considered himself entitled to dance with every lady, and no

lady considered herself as having a right to refuse him, and then to dance

with another person. The Señora de -----, a most high-bred and dignified

person, danced with a stable-boy in a jacket and without gloves, and he

appeared particularly gratified at the extraordinary opportunity thus

afforded him of holding her white gloves in his brown paws. These fellows

naturally select the first ladies as their partners, and, strange as it may

seem, there is nothing in their behaviour that the most fastidious can

complain of. They are perfectly polite, quiet, and well conducted; and what

is more remarkable, go through a quadrille as well as their neighbours. The

ball was quietness itself, until near the end, when the wind-instruments

were suddenly seized with a fit of economy, the time they were paid for

having probably expired, and stopped short in the midst of a waltz; upon

which the gentlemen waltzers shouted "_Viento! Viento!_" at the full extent

of their voices, clapping their hands, refusing to dance, and entirely

drowning the sound of some little jingling guitars, which were patiently

twanging on, until the hired sons of AEolus had to resume their labours.

There were some pretty faces among the secondary class of small

shopkeepers; but their beauty is not striking, and takes a long time to

discover; especially _fagotees_ as they are in their overloaded dresses.

Amongst the handsomest of the higher classes, were the Señora C---s, and a

daughter of the Marquis G---e.

On the third night of the fête, C---n and I having left the ball-room,

about ten o'clock, walked out in the direction of the copper-tables which

filled the middle of the square, and were covered with awnings. It is a

sight that, once seen, can never be forgotten. Nothing but the pencil of

Hogarth, or the pen of Boz, could do justice to the various groups there

assembled. It was a gambling _fête champetre_, conducted on the most

liberal scale.

On each table were great mountains of copper, with an occasional sprinkling

of silver. There was a profusion of evergreens, small tin lamps dripping

with oil, and sloping tallow candles shedding grease upon the board. Little

ragged boys, acting as waiters, were busily engaged in handing round pulque

and chia in cracked tumblers. There was, moreover, an agreeable tinkling

produced from several guitars, and even the bankers condescended to amuse

their guests with soothing strains. The general dress of the company

consisted of a single blanket, gracefully disposed in folds about the

person; so as to show various glimpses of a bronze skin. To this some added

a pair of Mexican pantaloons, and some a shirt of a doubtful colour. There

were many with large hats, most of which had crowns or parts of crowns, but

all affording free entrance to the fresh air. Generally speaking,

how-ever, the head was uncovered, or covered only with its native thatching

of long, bushy, tangled black hair.

This might be out of compliment to the ladies, of whom there were several,

and who ought in politeness to have been mentioned first. Nothing could be

simpler than their costume, consisting of a very dirty and extremely torn

chemise, with short sleeves, a shorter petticoat, and a pair of shoes,

generally of dirty satin: also a reboso, and the long hair hanging down as

Eve's golden locks may have done in Paradise. "They call this place a

Paradise," a Spanish soldier wrote to his father; "and so I think it is, it

is so full of _Adams_."

There was neither fighting, nor swearing, nor high words. I doubt whether

there be as much decorum at Crockford's; indeed, they were scrupulously

polite to each other. At one table, the banker was an enormously fat

gentleman, one half of whose head was bound up with a dirty white

handkerchief, over which a torn piece of hat was stuck, very much to one

side. He had a most roguish eye, and a smile of inviting benignity on his

dirty countenance. In one hand he held and tingled a guitar, while he most

ingeniously swept in the copper with the other. By his side sat two

wretched-looking women, with long matted hair, their elbows on the table,

and their great eyes fixed upon the game with an expression of the most

intense anxiety. At another, the _banker_ was a pretty little Indian woman,

rather clean, comparatively speaking, and who appeared to be doing business

smartly. A man stood near her, leaning against one of the poles that

supported the awning, who attracted all our attention. He was enveloped in

a torn blanket, his head uncovered, and his feet bare, and was glaring upon

the table with his great dark, haggard-looking eyes, his brown face livid,

and his expression bordering on despair. It needed no one to tell us that

on the table was his last stake. What will such a man do but go upon the

road?

I have heard it mentioned as a strong circumstance in favour of the Mexican

character, that there is neither noise nor disturbance in these reunions;

none of that uproar and violence that there would be in an English mob, for

example. The fact is certain, but the inference is doubtful. These people

are degraded, and accustomed to endure. They are gentle and cunning, and

their passions are not easily roused, at least to open display; but once

awakened, it is neither to uproar that these passions will be excited, nor

by fair fight that they will be assuaged. In England, a boxing-match

decides a dispute amongst the lower orders; in Mexico, a knife; and a

broken head is easier mended than a cut throat. Despair must find vent in

some way; and secret murder, or midnight robbery, are the fatal

consequences of this very calmness of countenance, which is but a mask of

Nature's own giving to her Indian offspring.

Another reason for this tranquillity is the _habit_ of gambling, in which

they have indulged from childhood, and which has taught them that neither

high words nor violence will restore a single dollar once fairly lost; and

in point of fairness, everything is carried on with the strictest honour,

as among gamblers of high degree.

While "high life below stairs" is thus enacting, and these people are

courting fortune in the fresh air, the gentlemanly gamblers are seated

before the green cloth-covered tables, with the gravity befitting so many

cabinet councils; but without their mystery, for doors and windows are

thrown open, and both ladies and gentlemen may pass in and out, and look on

at the game, if they please. The heaps of ounces look temptingly, and make

it appear a true El Dorado. Nor is there any lack of creature-comforts to

refresh the flagging spirits. There are supper-spread tables, covered with

savoury meats to appease their hunger, and with generous wines to gladden

their hearts; and the gentlemen who surrounded that board seemed to be

playing, instead of Monte, an excellent knife and fork.

You must not suppose that those who hold gaming-tables are the less

considered on that account; on the contrary, as the banks generally win,

they are amongst the richest, and, consequently, the most respected men in

Mexico. These bankers are frequently Spaniards, who have found gambling the

readiest stepping-stone to fortune. Señor ----- explained to me one plan of

those who hold the banks, a sort of _hedging_, by which it is next to

impossible that they can lose. For example, one of these gentlemen proposes

to his friends to take a share in a _vaca_, each contributing a few ounces.

Having collected several hundred ounces, they go to play at _his bank_. If

they win, he receives his share, of course; and if they lose his bank wins

the whole. It is proceeding upon the principle of "Heads I win, tails you

lose."

At the tables, few words are spoken. The heaps of gold change masters; but

the masters do not change countenance. I saw but one person who looked a

little out of humour, and he was a foreigner. The rich man adds to his

store, and the poor man becomes a beggar. He is ruined, but "_makes no

sign_."

The ladies who have collected ounces and made purses, send their friends

and admirers to the tables to try their luck for them; and in some of the

inferior houses, the Señoras of a lower class occasionally try their

fortune for themselves. I saw one of these, who had probably lost, by no

means "taking it coolly." She looked like an overcharged thunder-cloud; but

whether she broke forth in anger or in tears, thunder or rain, we did not

stay to see.

In short, it is an all-pervading mania, and as man is "a bundle of habits,"

the most moral persons in this country (always excepting one or two ladies

who express their opinions strongly against it) see nothing in it to

condemn, and are surprised at the effect it produces on a stranger; and,

indeed, after a few years' residence here, a foreigner almost becomes

reconciled to these abuses, by the veil of decorum with which they are

covered.

We returned to San Antonio by the brightest possible moonlight, and in

perfect safety, it being on the high-road to Mexico, and therefore guarded

by soldiers. We heard the next morning, that a nephew of General B---s, who

had ventured upon going by a cross-road to his house, at _Mizcuaque_, has

been attacked and robbed of his winnings, besides being severely wounded.

This being the natural consequence, the _morale_ to the story can excite no

surprise. The robbers who, in hopes of plunder, flocked down at the time of

the fête, like sopilotes seeking carrion, hide themselves among the barren

rocks of the _Pedregal_, and render all cross-roads insecure, except with a

very strong escort.

An anecdote was related to us this morning, by a member of the cabinet, a

striking one amongst the innumerable instances of fortune's caprices. A

very rich Spaniard, proprietor of several haciendas, attended the fête at

San Agustin, and having won three thousand ounces, ordered the money to be

carried in sacks to his carriage, and prepared to return to Mexico along

with his wife. His carriage was just setting off, when a friend of his came

out of an adjoining house, and requested him to stay to breakfast, to which

he agreed. After breakfast, there being a monte table in the house, at

which some of his acquaintances were playing, he put down two ounces, and

lost. He continued playing and losing, until he had lost his three thousand

ounces, which were sent for and transferred to the winners. He still

continued playing with a terrible infatuation, till he had lost his whole

fortune. He went on blindly, staking one hacienda after another, and

property of all sorts, until the sun, which had risen upon him a rich and

prosperous man, set, leaving him a beggar! It is said that he bore this

extraordinary and sudden reverse with the utmost equanimity. He left a son,

whom we have seen at San Agustin, where he earns his livelihood as

_croupier_ at the gambling-tables.

29th.--No particular occurrence has taken place since the fête; a visit

from the new Secretary of Legation and the Attache, a diplomatic dinner at

the ----- Minister's, much going and coming and writing on the subject of a

house in Mexico, a correspondence concerning the sale of our furniture,

mules, etc., etc., a good deal of interest excited by a bet between two

English gentlemen, as to whether it were possible for one of them to ride

from Mexico to San Angel in twenty minutes, which feat he performed,

starting from the gate called "_El Niño Perdido_," and reaching the old

church of San Angel within the given time; these I think are the most

remarkable circumstances that have taken place. We are now in treaty for

the furnished apartments of the director of the _Casa de Moneda_ (the

mint), a great building next the palace, from which upwards of one thousand

three hundred millions of coined gold and silver have issued since the

beginning of the sixteenth century. The house is a palace in extent and

solidity; and the residence of the director is very spacious and handsome,

besides having the great advantage of being furnished. We expect to return

to Mexico in a few days.

CASA DE MONEDA, 6th July.

Here we are, re-established in Mexico, for a short time at least, and not

without difficulty has it been accomplished. We left the country with some

regret, as this is the pleasantest time of the year for being there, and

everything was looking green and beautiful. We came in, ourselves, in a

loaded carriage, and in advance, fourteen asses loaded with boxes, four

Indians with ditto, and two enormous loaded carts, one drawn by four, and

another by eight mules. We were a regular _caravan_, as our friend the

alcalde called us. Imagine the days of packing and unpacking consequent

thereupon!

On the 1st of July, the victory gained by the government over the

federalist party was celebrated with great éclat. The president was

presented with a diamond cross, valued at six thousand dollars, and General

Valencia with a splendid jewel-hilted sword of great value. "Yesterday

morning," says the newspaper of the day, "a general pealing of the bells

and the usual salutes announced to the capital that it was a day of rewards

and of universal joy. At twelve o'clock, his Excellency the President of

the Republic went to the palace, to fulfill the formality of closing the

sessions, and to receive from the hands of the President of the Chamber of

Deputies, the diploma and cross of honour mentioned in the decrees of the

second of March and second of May of this year. An immense multitude

occupied the galleries; and the President, Don J. M. María Bravo, addressed

his Excellency General Bustamante, in the following speech:

"Citizen General, and illustrious President:--Nations never forget the

distinguished services that are done to them, nor fail to reward those

heroic actions performed for the common good. Sooner or later they show

themselves grateful, and reward as they ought their good and valiant

servants. The Mexican nation has not forgotten yours, and its congress has

ever borne in mind those which you performed for it at that happy period

when the unfortunate hero of Iguala, causing the voice of freedom to

resound to the remotest lands of the Mexican territory, gave a terrible

lesson to those who wish to subdue weak nations, with no other title than

that of strength. You were one of the first and most valiant chiefs, who,

placed by his side, assisted in this important and happy work; you it was

who showed to the tyrant in the fields of Juchi, Aztcapozalco and others,

that the sword of the Mexicans once unsheathed for liberty and justice,

fights without softening or breaking; and knows how to triumph over its

enemies, even when superior forces oppose it; you it was, in short, who

with intrepid valour co-operated in re-establishing a liberty which, torn

from the ancient children of the soil, was converted by their oppressors

into a hard and shameful tyranny. History has already consecrated her pages

to you: she will record to posterity your heroic deeds, and congress has

already busied itself in rewarding such interesting services.

"If some Mexicans, erring in their opinions, by a fatality in this country,

have disowned them, making an attempt against your personal liberty,

notwithstanding the dignity of the first magistrate; trampling upon laws

and overturning order; they have at length been obliged to respect you; and

your valour, firmness, and decision, have made them preserve the

consideration due to an ancient chief of our independence, and to a first

magistrate who has known how to set an example of subordination to the

laws, and to give with dignity lessons of valour and of honourable conduct.

"A diploma and a cross are the rewards which the sovereign congress has

decreed for these services and merits. Do not regard in the one the

effaceable characters in which it is written, nor be dazzled by the

brilliancy of the other. See in both a proof of your country's gratitude,

and engraving it in your soul, continue to give testimonies to your country

that she is the first object of your care; that your watchings, fatigues,

and labours are dedicated only to procure for her those benefits which may

bring about the durable and solid peace that she so much desires, and for

which you would, if necessary, sacrifice yourself on her altars.

"Do not forget that to-day she shows herself grateful, and that this is the

day decreed by the august national representative body, to put you in

possession of the title and insignia which manifests her gratitude. I, in

the name of the congress, congratulate you on this fortunate event, and

having the honour to fulfil the desire of the sovereign power, place in

your hands this diploma of deserving reward from your country, and give you

possession of this cross."

His Excellency having received the diploma and cross above mentioned, with

his native modesty replied thus:

"In hearing, by the organ of the august national representation, the great

encomiums with which it favours me, putting me at the same time in

possession of these precious gifts, my soul overflows with ineffable

pleasure, and is overwhelmed with the deepest gratitude. My satisfaction

and my glory are immense. What could I have done, that thus the generous

hand of the representatives of the Mexican people should load me with

honours? Have my trifling services been able to fix the attention of the

country, on whose altars have been sacrificed so many and such illustrious

heroes of liberty? My glory would have been yet greater, had I, like them,

descended to the sepulchre, when the sun of victory brightened the

existence of this sovereign and independent nation, to the glory of the

universe.

"The honours which I receive to-day are certainly great; but I should have

preferred them before the never sufficiently mourned catastrophe of the

immortal Yturbide. Let us throw a thick veil over so irreparable a loss. It

is true that, surviving such great misfortunes, I have been enabled to

consecrate my existence and my vigilance to the peace, order, and felicity

of this beloved country. But how difficult is the conduct of those who

govern in the midst of the conflict of civil dissensions! In these, my

conscience has chosen, and my resolution has never vacillated between

ignominy and honour. Do I, on this account, deserve the national gratitude

and munificence manifested by such distinguished rewards? I return for them

to the representatives of the nation my frankest gratitude; fixing my mind

only on the grandeur and benevolence of the sovereign power which rewards

me in the sacred name of the country. I shall preserve till death these

precious objects which render my name illustrious as a soldier and as a

supreme magistrate. They will stimulate me more and more every day to all

kinds of sacrifices, even to the giving up my life should it be necessary;

that I may not be unworthy of the favourable conception and of the

recompence with which the worthy representatives of so magnanimous a nation

have to-day honoured me. Receive, gentlemen, this frank manifestation of my

sentiments, and of my fervent vows for the felicity of the republic, with

the most sincere protestations of my eternal gratitude."

"The liveliest emotions of satisfaction" (I still quote from the _Díario_)

"followed this expressive discourse. Joy was painted on every countenance.

The frank satisfaction which every one felt gave to this act a solemnity

which words are incapable of describing. His Excellency, accompanied by the

corporations and by a brilliant and numerous concourse, then passed to the

hall of the court-martial, to put in possession of his Excellency General

D. Gabriel Valencia the sword of honour which the august national

representation had granted him, for his loyal and valiant conduct in the

affair of July of 1840. His Excellency the President began this ceremony by

expressing his sentiments to his Excellency the _Gefe de la plana mayor_

(head of the staff), in these terms:

"Citizen General:--In this day, the most flattering of my life, in which

the august representatives of the nation have just put me in possession of

the rewards granted to my small services, I fulfil the law which imposes

upon me the grateful task of presenting you with the sword of honour, with

which their munificence has also chosen to remunerate yours.

"Receive it as the distinguished reward of your loyalty, and of the valour

with which you fought at that memorable period, from the 15th to the 26th

of July, defending with bravery the constitution and supreme powers of the

Republic. I congratulate myself with you, not doubting that you will always

employ the edge of this steel in defence of the honour, of the sacred

rights, and of the laws of this country. Yes, general, of this beloved

country, to whom we owe all kinds of sacrifices; yes, of this beloved

mother, who now more than ever reclaims the fraternal union of all her

children, to conquer the internal and external enemies who oppose her

felicity and aggrandizement, let us pledge ourselves to correspond

thankfully to the generosity with which the representatives of the nation

have rewarded us, and let us march united in the same path which honour and

duty traced out for us, in that day of honourable memory for the defenders

of the laws. Eternal praise to the brave soldiers and citizens who co-

operated with us in the establishment of order!"

To which General Valencia replied:--"That a correspondent reward should

follow an heroic action, nothing more natural; but to remunerate a service

which does not go beyond the sphere of ordinary things, such as mine in the

affair of the 15th to the 26th of July of 1840, by such a noble distinction

as the sword of honour with which your Excellency has deigned to gird me,

in the name of the National Congress, of this the magnanimity of the

sovereignty is alone capable; and so it is that I remain annihilated by a

present worthy of the ages of the Roman Senate and Republic. What did I do,

your Excellency, in those days, that any one of my countrymen would not

have done better? Nothing, sir; so that, in receiving this sword of honour,

my confusion equals my doubt as to my place in the gratitude of the

congress which has given it to me, of your Excellency who has deigned to

present it to me, and of my worthy countrymen who bestowed it that I might

wear it.

"In this condition, your Excellency, of content and satisfaction, I can say

no more, but that I hope your Excellency will manifest to congress my

eternal gratitude; that your Excellency will receive my noble

acknowledgments, and my companions the assurance that every time I put it

on I shall remember the names of all and each of them who accompanied me on

the 15th of July of 1840, together with the pleasure that to them I owe so

great a mark of respect."

Amongst the congratulations given to the president, the following

"congratulation from his Excellency General Valencia to his Excellency the

President, on his receiving the decoration of the cross of honour from

congress," is very remarkable. "God said, the first day of the creation of

the world, when it was in a state of chaos, _'Let there be light, and there

was light.' And God saw his work and pronounced it good!_ With how much

more reason ought the garrison of Mexico to do so every day in which, by

any action, the 15th of July 1840 is celebrated--in which, by their

strength and heroic valour, that passage of Genesis was politically

repeated in this capital. Society arose in chaos. Its president is taken.

Authorities no longer exist, and those who ought to save them are converted

into their oppressors. '_God said let there be light, and there was

light_!' The honourable troops, reunited in the citadel, in the midst of

chaos, said 'Let order be re-established--let the supreme magistrate be set

at liberty, and let things resume their proper march.' Order _was_ re-

established, your Excellency was set free, and the political body followed

the regular path, without which no society exists. So it is that those

worthy troops who thus said, thus undertook, and thus accomplished, now

also resemble the Creator of the world (_hoy tambien se asememejan al

Criador del mundo_) in his content, when satisfied with his work.

"The cross which has been worthily placed on your Excellency's breast this

day, reflects in such a singular manner upon the hearts of the valiant men

of that period (_reflecta de un modo tan singular sobre los corazones de

los valientes de aquella época_), that their souls are expanded in

contemplating it, by the honour which results to them from it.

"May your Excellency be happy one and a thousand times, with such a noble

and worthy decoration. Let your Excellency receive in it the sincere

congratulations of the garrison of Mexico, which figures in each stone of

this cross, like the stars in the firmament."

"This ceremony being concluded, the two rewarded generals presented

themselves on the principal balcony of the palace, in front of which passed

the brilliant column of honour; at its head marched the commandant-general,

Don Valentin Canalizo; and the brilliancy, neatness, and elegance, which

all the corps of the garrison displayed, is above all praise. When the

regiment had passed, a sumptuous entertainment was served in one of the

halls of the Minister of War, in which elegance, good taste, and propriety,

rivalled one another; while repeated toasts showed the most sincere joy,

united with the most patriotic and fraternal sentiments. Rain having begun

to fall at about three in the afternoon, the paseo was on this account not

so crowded as might have been expected; nevertheless, the military bands

were present, and at six in the evening their Excellencies Generals

Bustamante and Valencia having presented themselves there, were received

with _vivas_ and universal joy.

"At night the chiefs and officers of the _plana mayor_ gave a ball in the

college of the Mineria; and the theatre of New Mexico dedicated its

entertainment to his Excellency the President. Nothing disturbed the joy of

this day; one sentiment alone of union and cheerfulness overflowed in the

capital, proving to those illustrious generals the unanimous applause with

which Mexicans see their country reward the distinguished services of their

children, who are so deserving of their love and gratitude."

Notwithstanding the ineffable joy which, according to the _Díario_, is

generally felt on this occasion, there are many who doubt the policy of

this celebration, at a time when the troops are unpaid--when the soldiers,

wounded at the last _pronunciamiento_, are refused their pensions, while

the widows and orphans of others are vainly suing for assistance. "At the

best," say those who cavil on the subject, "it was a civil war--a war

between brothers--a subject of regret and not of glory--of sadness and not

of jubilee." As for General Valencia's congratulation to the president, in

which he compares the "honourable troops" to the Supreme Being, the

re-establishment of order in Mexico to the creation of the world from

chaos, it is chiefly incomprehensible. Perhaps he is carried away by his

joy and gratitude, and personal affection for Bustamante--perhaps he has

taken a leaf from a translation of _Bombastes Furioso_.

One thing is certain: the whole affair had a brilliant appearance; and the

handsome carriages, fine horses, gaily-dressed officers and soldiers,

together with the military music and the crowds of people collected,

produced an imposing effect.

Life in Mexico · 第 126 / 144 题