Cave of _Cacahuamilpa_--Superstition--Long-bearded Goat--Portal--
Vestibule--Fantastic Forms--Breakfast--Pine Torches--Noble Hall--
Stalactites and Stalagmites--Egyptian Pyramids--Double Gallery--Wonderful
Formations--Corridor--Frozen Landscape--Amphitheatre--World in Chaos--
Skeleton--Wax Lights--Hall of Angels--Return--Distant Light--Indian
Alcalde--_Cautlamilpas_--Rancho--Return to Cocoyotla--Chapel--Meacatlan--
Eclipse of the Moon--Benighted Travellers--Indian Village--_El Puente_--
Return to _Atlacamulco_.
ATLACAMULCO, 7th.
The cave of Cacahuamilpa, whose actual wonders equal the fabled
descriptions of the palaces of Genii, was, until lately, known to the
Indians alone, or if the Spaniards formerly knew anything about it, its
existence was forgotten amongst them. But although in former days it may
have been used as a place of worship, a superstitious fear prevented the
more modern Indians from exploring its shining recesses, for here it was
firmly believed the evil spirit had his dwelling, and in the form of a
goat, with long beard and horns, guarded the entrance of the cave. The few
who ventured there and beheld this apparition, brought back strange tales
to their credulous companions, and even the neighbourhood of the enchanted
cave was avoided, especially at nightfall.
The chain of mountains, into whose bosom it leads, is bleak and bare, but
the ravine below is refreshed by a rapid stream, that forms small
waterfalls as it tumbles over the rocks, and is bordered by green and
flowering trees. Amongst these, is one with a smooth, satin-like bark, of a
pale golden colour, whose roots have something snakish and witch-like in
their appearance, intertwining with each other, grappling as it were with
the hard rock, and stretching out to the most extraordinary distance.
We arrived at the entrance of the cave, a superb portal, upwards of seventy
feet high, and one hundred and fifty wide, according to the computation of
a learned traveller--the rocks which support the great arch so
symmetrically disposed as to resemble a work of art. The sun was already
high in the heavens, shining with intense brightness on the wild scenery
that surrounded us, the rocks and trees and rushing waters; a sensation of
awe came over us as we stood at the mouth of the cave, and, turning from
day to night, strained our eyes to look down a deep descent into a gigantic
vaulted hall, faintly lighted by the red embers of a fire which the Indians
had kindled near the entrance. We made our way down a declivity of, it may
be, one hundred and fifty feet, surrounded by blocks of stone and rock, and
remained lost in astonishment at finding ourselves in this gloomy
subterranean palace, surrounded by the most extraordinary, gigantic, and
mysterious forms, which it is scarcely possible to believe are the
fantastic productions of the water which constantly trickles from the roof.
I am shocked to confess it--I would prefer passing it over--but we had
tasted nothing that morning, and we had rode for eight hours, and were
dying of hunger! Moreover we travelled with a cook, a very tolerable native
artist, but without sentiment--his heart in his stew-pan; and he, without
the least compunction, had begun his frying and broiling operations in what
seemed the very vestibule of Pharaoh's palace. Our own _mozos_ and our
Indian guides were assisting in its operations with the utmost zeal; and in
a few minutes, some sitting round the fire, and others upon broken
pyramids, we refreshed ourselves with fried chicken, bread, and hard eggs,
before proceeding farther on our exploring expedition. Unromantic as this
proceeding was, we looked, Indians and all, rather awful, with no other
light than the ruddy glare of the fire, flickering upon the strange,
gigantic forms in that vast labyrinth; and as to what we felt, our valour
and strength of mind were increased sevenfold.
Twenty-four huge pine torches were then lighted, each man carrying one. To
K---- and me were given lighted wax candles, in case by accident any one
should go astray from his companions, and lose his way, as would too
certainly happen, in the different windings and galleries and compartments
of the cave, and be alone in the darkness! We walked on in awe and wonder,
the guides lighting up the sides of the cavern with their torches.
Unfortunately, it is indescribable; as in the fantastic forms of the
clouds, every one sees some different creation of his fancy in these
stupendous masses. It is said that the first _sala_, for travellers have
pretended to divide it into halls, and a very little imagination may do so,
is about two hundred feet long, one hundred and seventy wide, and one
hundred and fifty in height--a noble apartment. The walls are shaded with
different colours of green and orange; great sheets of stalactites hang
from the roof: and white phantoms, palm-trees, lofty pillars, pyramids,
porches, and a thousand other illusions, surround us on all sides. One
figure, concerning which all agree, is a long-haired goat, the Evil One in
that form. But some one has broken the head, perhaps to show the
powerlessness of the enchanted guardian of the cave. Some say that there
are no living animals here, but there is no doubt that there are bats; and
an exploring party, who passed the night here, not only heard the hissing
of the rattlesnake, but were startled by the apparition of a fierce
leopard, whose loud roarings were echoed amongst the vaults, and who, after
gazing at them by the light of the torches, stalked majestically back into
the darkness.
We passed on to the second _sala_, collecting as we went fragments of the
shining stones, our awe and astonishment increasing at every step.
Sometimes we seemed to be in a subterranean Egyptian temple. The
architecture was decidedly Egyptian, and the strange forms of the animals
resembled those of the uncouth Egyptian idols; which, together with the
pyramids and obelisks, made me think, that perhaps that ancient people took
the idea of their architecture and of many of their strange shapes from
some natural cave of this description, just as nature herself suggested the
idea of the beautiful Corinthian pillar.
Again we seemed to enter a tract of country which had been petrified.
Fountains of congealed water, trees hung with frozen moss, pillars covered
with gigantic acanthus leaves, pyramids of ninety feet high losing their
lofty heads in the darkness of the vault, and looking like works of the
pre-Adamites; yet no being but He who inhabits eternity could have created
them. This second hall, as lofty as the other, may be nearly four hundred
feet in length.
We then passed into a sort of double gallery, separated by enormous
pyramidal formations--_stalagmites_, those which are formed by water
dropping on the earth. The ground was damp, and occasionally great drops
trickled on our heads from the vaults above. Here Gothic shrines, odd
figures; some that look like mummies, others like old men with long beards,
appall us like figures that we see in some wild dream. These are
intermingled with pyramids, obelisks, baths that seem made of the purest
alabaster, etc. A number of small round balls, petrifactions of a dead
white, lie about here, forming little hollows in the ground. Here the cave
is very wide--about two hundred feet, it is said.
When we left this double gallery, we came to another vast corridor,
supported by lofty pillars, covered with creeping plants, but especially
with a row of the most gigantic cauliflowers, each leaf delicately
chiseled, and looking like a fitting food for the colossal dwellers of the
cavern. But to attempt anything like a regular description is out of the
question. We gave ourselves up to admiration, as our torches flashed upon
the masses of rock, the hills crowned with pyramids, the congealed torrents
that seem to belong to winter at the north pole, and the lofty Doric
columns that bring us back to the pure skies of Greece. But amongst all
these curious _accidents_ produced by water, none is more curiously
exquisite than an amphitheatre, with regular benches, surmounted by a great
organ, whose pipes, when struck, give forth a deep sound. It is really
difficult not to believe that some gigantic race once amused themselves in
these petrified solitudes, or that we have not invaded the sanctuary of
some mysterious and superhuman beings. It is said that this cavern has been
explored for four leagues, and yet that no exit has been discovered. As for
us, I do not know how far we went: our guides said a league. It seemed
impossible to think of time when we looked at these great masses, formed
drop by drop, slowly and rarely and at distant intervals falling, and
looked back upon the ages that must have elapsed since these gigantic
formations began.
At length, on account of the loose stones, the water, and the masses of
crystal rock that we had to climb over, our guides strongly recommended us
to return. It was difficult to turn away our eyes from the great unformed
masses that now seemed to fill the cave as far as the eye could reach. It
looked like the world in chaos--nature's vast workshop, from which she drew
the materials which her hand was to reduce to form and order. We retraced
our steps slowly and lingeringly through these subterranean palaces,
feeling that one day was not nearly sufficient to explore them, yet
thankful that we had not left the country without seeing them. The skeleton
of a man was discovered here by some travellers, lying on his side, the
head nearly covered with crystallization. He had probably entered these
labyrinths alone, either from rash curiosity or to escape from pursuit;
lost his way and perished from hunger. Indeed to find the way back to the
entrance of the cave is nearly impossible, without some clue to guide the
steps amongst these winding galleries, halls, and issues and entries, and
divided corridors.
Though there are some objects so striking that they may immediately be
recognised, such as the amphitheatre for instance, there is a monotony even
in the variety! and I can imagine the unfortunate man wandering amongst
obelisks and pyramids and alabaster baths and Grecian columns--amongst
frozen torrents that could not assuage his thirst, and trees with marble
fruit and foliage, and crystal vegetables that mocked his hunger: and pale
phantoms with long hair and figures in shrouds, that could not relieve his
distress--and then his cries for help, where the voice gives out an echo,
as if all the pale dwellers in the cave answered in mockery--and then, his
torch becoming extinguished, and he lying down exhausted and in despair
near some inhospitable marble porch, to die.
As we went along, our guides had climbed up and placed wax candles on the
top of all the highest points, so that their pale glimmering light pointed
out the way to us on our return. The Indians begged they might be left
there "on account of the blessed souls in purgatory," which was done. As we
returned, we saw one figure we had not observed before, which looks
something like a woman mounted on an enormous goat. To one hall, on account
of its beauty, some travellers have given the name of the "Hall of Angels."
It is said that, by observation, the height of the stalagmites might
determine the age of their formation, but where is the enterprising
geologist who would shut himself up in these crystal solitudes sufficiently
long for correct observation?
I never saw or could have imagined so beautiful an effect as that of the
daylight in the distance, entering by the mouth of the cave; such a faint
misty blue, contrasted with the fierce red light of the torches, and broken
by the pillars through which its pale rays struggled. It looked so pure and
holy, that it seemed like the light from an angel's wings at the portals of
the "_cittá dolente_." What would that poor traveller have given to have
seen its friendly rays! After climbing out and leaving the damp, cool
subterraneous air, the atmosphere felt dry and warm, as we sat down to rest
at the mouth of the cavern, surrounded by our Indian torch-bearers. Truly,
nature is no coquette. She adorns herself with greater riches in the
darkest mountain cave, than on the highest mountain top.
We were sitting in thoughtful silence, ourselves, Indians and all, in a
circle, when we saw, stumping down the hill, in great haste, and apparently
in great wrath, an Indian alcalde, with a thick staff in his hand, at whose
approach the Indians looked awe-struck. He carried in his brown hand a
large letter, on which was written in great type; "_Al Señor dominante de
esta caravana de gente_." "To the Commander of this caravan of people!"
This missive set forth that the justice of peace of the city of Cuautla
Amilpas, begged to know by what right, by whose authority, and with what
intentions we had entered this cave, without permission from government;
and desired the "_Señor dominante_" to appear forthwith before the said
justice for contempt of his authority. The spelling of the letter was too
amusing. The Indians looked very much alarmed, and when they saw us laugh,
still more astonished. C---n wrote with a pencil in answer to the summons,
that he was the Spanish Minister, and wished good day to the alcalde, who
plodded up the hill again, very ill pleased.
We now took leave of this prodigious subterranean palace, and again put
ourselves _en route_. Once more we wound our way round the brink of the
precipice, and this time it was more dangerous for us than before, for we
rode on the side next it, our gowns overhanging the brink, and if caught by
a branch there, might have been dragged over. Our two guides afterwards
said that if alone, they would have dismounted; but that as the ladies said
nothing, they did not like to propose it.
Some day, no doubt, this cave will become a show-place, and measures will
be taken to render the approach to it less dangerous; but as yet, one of
its charms consists in its being unhackneyed. For, long after, its
recollection rests upon the mind, like a marble dream. But, like Niagara,
it cannot be described; perhaps even it is more difficult to give an idea
of this underground creation, than of the emperor of cataracts; for there
is nothing with which the cave can be compared.
Meanwhile, we had rather a disagreeable ride, in all the force of the sun's
last rays, back to the rancho. No one spoke--all our thoughts were
wandering amongst marble palaces, and uncouth, gigantic, half-human forms.
But our attention was again attracted by the sudden reappearance of our
friend, the alcalde, on the brow of the hill, looking considerably
indignant. He came with a fresh summons from the judge of Cuautla Amilpas,
which lay white and glittering in the valley below. C---n endeavoured
gravely to explain to him that the persons of ambassadors were not subject
to such laws, which was Greek and Hebrew to him of the bronze countenance.
"If it were a _Consul_ indeed, there might be something in that." At last
our guide, the ranchero, promised to call upon the judge in the evening,
and explain the matter to his satisfaction; and again our alcalde departed
upon his bootless errand--bootless in every sense, as he stalked down the
hill with his bare bronze supporters. As we passed along, a parcel of
soldiers in the village were assembled in haste, who struck up an imposing
military air, to give us some idea of their importance.
Politically speaking, Cuautla Amilpas has been the theatre of important
events. It was there that the curate Morelos shut himself up with a troop
of insurgents, until the place being besieged by the Spaniards under
Calleja, and the party of Morelos driven to extremity for want of food, he
secretly abandoned his position, drawing off his forces in the night.
When we arrived at the rancho, we found that a message had come from the
judge, prohibiting Don Benito from accompanying strangers to the cave in
future, which would be hard upon the old man, who makes a little money by
occasionally guiding strangers there. C---n has therefore written on the
subject to the _prefect_ of the department.
In the cool of the evening, we had a delightful ride to Cocoyotla. The air
was soft and fragrant--the bells of the villages were ringing amongst the
trees, for every village, however poor, has at least one fine church, and
all the bells in Mexico, whether in the city or in the villages, have a
mellow and musical sound, owing, it is said, to the quantity of silver that
enters into their composition.
It was late when we arrived at Cocoyotla, but we did not go to rest without
visiting the beautiful chapel, which we had omitted to do on our last
visit; it is very rich in gilding and ornaments, very large and in good
taste. We supped, and threw ourselves down to rest for a few hours, and set
off again at three o'clock, by the light of a full moon. Our greatest
difficulty in these hurried marches is to get our things in and out of our
portmanteaus, and to dress in time in the dark. No looking-glasses of
course--we arrange our hair by our imagination. Everything gets broken, as
you may suppose; the mules that carry our trunks cantering up and down the
hills to keep up with us, in most unequal measure.
The moon was still high, though pale, when the sun rose, like a youthful
monarch impatient to take the reins from the hands of a mild and dying
queen. We had a delightful gallop, and soon left the fires of Cocoyotla far
behind us. After riding six leagues, we arrived at six in the morning at
the house of the Perez Palacios. We should have gone further while it was
cool; but their hospitality, added to a severe fit of toothache which had
attacked C---n, induced us to remain till four o'clock, during which time
we improved our acquaintance with the family. How strange and even
melancholy are those glimpses which travellers have of persons whom they
will probably never meet again; with whom they form an intimacy, which
owing to peculiar circumstances seems very like friendship--much nearer it
certainly, than many a long acquaintanceship which we form in great cities,
and where the parties go on _knowing each other_ from year to year, and
never exchanging more than a mere occasional and external civility.
It was four o'clock when we left Meacatlan, and we rode hard and fast till
it grew nearly dark, for our intention was to return to our head-quarters
at Atlacamulco that night, and we had a long journey before us, especially
as it was decided that we should by no means attempt to recross the
barrancas by night, which would have been too dangerous. Besides an eclipse
of the moon was predicted, and in fact, as we were riding across the
fields, she appeared above the horizon, half in shadow, a curious and
beautiful spectacle. But we should have been thankful for her entire beams,
for after riding for hours we discovered that we had lost our way, and
worse still, that there were no hopes of our finding it. Not a hut was in
sight--darkness coming on--nothing but great plains and mountains to be
distinguished, and nothing to be heard but bulls roaring round us. We went
on, trusting to chance, and where chance would have led us it is hard to
say; but by good fortune our advanced guard stumbled over two Indians, a
man and a boy, who agreed to guide us to their own village, but nowhere
else.
After following them a long and weary way, all going at a pretty brisk
trot, the barking of hundreds of dogs announced an Indian village, and by
the faint light we could just distinguish the cane huts snugly seated
amongst bananas and with little enclosed gardens before each. Our cavalcade
drew up before a hut, a sort of tavern or spirit-shop, where an old
half-naked hag, the _beau ideal_ of a witch, was distributing _fire-water_
to the Indians, most of whom were already drunk. We got off our horses and
threw ourselves down on the ground too tired to care what they were doing,
and by some means a cup of bad chocolate was procured for us. We found that
we had entirely lost our way, and it was therefore agreed, that instead of
attempting to reach Atlacamulco that night, we should ride to the village
of el Puente, where our conductors knew a Spanish family of bachelor
brothers, who would be glad to _harbour_ us for the remainder of the night.
We then remounted and set off somewhat refreshed by our rest and by the bad
chocolate.
It was late at night when we entered el Puente, after having crossed in
pitch darkness a river so deep that the horses were nearly carried off
their feet; yet they were dancing in one place, playing cards on the ground
in another, dogs were barking as usual, and candles lighted in the Indian
huts. We were very well received by the Spaniards, who gave us supper and
made us take their room, all the rest of the party sleeping upon mattresses
placed on the floor of a large empty apartment. We slept a few hours very
soundly, rose before daylight, wakened the others, who, lying on the
ground, rolled up in their sarapes, seemed to be sleeping for a wager, and
remounted our horses, not sorry at the prospect of a day's rest at
Atlacamulco. It was dark when we set off; but the sun had risen and had
lighted up the bright green fields of sugar-cane, and the beautiful
coffee-plantations that look like flowering myrtles, by the time we reached
the hacienda of Señor Neri del Barrio, whose family is amongst the most
distinguished of the old _Spanish Mexican_ stock. We stopped to take a
tumbler of milk fresh from the cow; declined an invitation to go in, as we
were anxious to finish our journey while it was cool; and after a hard ride
galloped into the courtyard of Atlacamulco, which seemed like returning
home. We spent a pleasant, idle day, lying down and reading while the sun
was high, and in the evening sauntering about under the orange trees. We
concluded with a hot bath.
7th.--Before continuing our journey, we determined to spend one more day
here, which was fortunate, as we received a large packet of letters from
home, forwarded to this place, and we have been reading them, stretched
under the shade of a natural bower formed by orange-boughs, near a clear,
cold tank of water in the garden. To-morrow we shall set off betimes for
the hacienda of Cocoyoc, the property of Don Juan Goriva, with whom C---n
was acquainted in Mexico. After visiting that and some other of the
principal estates, we shall continue our ride to Puebla, and as we shall
pass a few days there, hope to have leisure to write again from that city.