Visits from Spaniards--Visit from the President--Disquisition--Poblana
Dress--Bernardo the Matador--Bull-fight extraordinary--Plaza de
Toros--Fireworks--Portrait of C---n--Fancy Ball--Dress--Costume of the
Patronesses--Beauty in Mexico--Doctor's Visit--Cards of _faire
part_--Marquesa de San Roman--Toilet in Morning Visits of
Ceremony--Attempt at Robbery--Murder of a Consul--La Guera
Rodriguez--Dr. Plan--M. de Humboldt--Anecdote--Former Customs.
5th January.
Yesterday (Sunday), a great day here for visiting after mass is over. We
had a concourse of Spaniards, all of whom seemed anxious to know whether or
not I intended to wear a Poblana dress at the fancy ball, and seemed
wonderfully interested about it. Two young ladies or women of Puebla,
introduced by Señor ----- came to proffer their services in giving me all
the necessary particulars, and dressed the hair of Joséfa, a little Mexican
girl, to show me how it should be arranged; mentioned several things still
wanting, and told me that every one was much pleased at the idea of my
going in a Poblana dress. I was rather surprised that _every one_ should
trouble themselves about it. About twelve o'clock the president, in full
uniform, attended by his aides-de-camp, paid me a visit, and sat about half
an hour, very amiable as usual. Shortly after came more visits, and just as
we had supposed they were all concluded, and we were going to dinner, we
were told that the secretary of state, the Ministers of war and of the
interior, and others, were in the drawing-room. And what do you think was
the purport of their visit? To adjure me by all that was most alarming, to
discard the idea of making my appearance in a Poblana dress! They assured
us that Poblanas generally were _femmes de rien_, that they wore no
stockings, and that the wife of the Spanish Minister should by no means
assume, even for one evening, such a costume. I brought in my dresses,
showed their length and their propriety, but in vain; and, in fact, as to
their being in the right, there could be no doubt, and nothing but a kind
motive could have induced them to take this trouble; so I yielded with a
good grace, and thanked the cabinet council for their timely warning,
though fearing, that in this land of procrastination, it would be difficult
to procure another dress for the fancy ball; for you must know, that our
luggage is still toiling its weary way, on the backs of mules, from Vera
Cruz to the capital. They had scarcely gone, when Señor ----- brought a
message from several of the principal ladies here, whom we do not even
know, and who had requested, that as a stranger, I should be informed of
the reasons which rendered the Poblana dress objectionable in this country,
especially on any public occasion like this ball. I was really thankful for
my escape.
Just as I was dressing for dinner, a note was brought, marked _reservada_
(private), the contents of which appeared to me more odd than pleasant. I
have since heard, however, that the writer, Don José Arnaiz, is an old man,
and a sort of privileged character, who interferes in everything, whether
it concerns him or not. I translate it for your benefit.
"The dress of a Poblana is that of a woman of no character. The lady of the
Spanish Minister is a _lady_ in every sense of the word. However much she
may have compromised herself, she ought neither to go as a Poblana, nor in
any other character but her own. So says to the Señor de C---n, José
Arnaiz, who esteems him as much as possible."
6th.--Early this morning, this being the day of the "bull-fight
extraordinary," placards were put up, as I understand, on all the corners
of the streets, announcing it, accompanied by a portrait of C---n! Count
C---a came soon after breakfast, accompanied by Bernardo, the first
matador, whom he brought to present to us. I send you the white satin note
of invitation, with its silver lace and tassels, to show you how
beautifully they can get up such things here. The matador is a handsome but
heavy-looking man, though said to be active and skilful. Tomorrow I shall
write you an account of my _first bull-fight_.
7th.--Yesterday, towards the afternoon, there were great fears of rain,
which would have caused a postponement of the combat; however, the day
cleared up, the bulls little knowing how much their fate depended upon the
clouds. A box in the centre, with a carpet and a silver lamp, had been
prepared for us; but we went with our friends, the C---as, into their box
adjoining. The scene, to me especially, who have not seen the magnificence
of the Madrid arena, was animating and brilliant in the highest degree.
Fancy an immense amphitheatre, with four great tiers of boxes, and a range
of uncovered seats in front, the whole crowded almost to suffocation; the
boxes filled with ladies in full dress, and the seats below by
gaily-dressed and most enthusiastic spectators; two military bands of
music, playing beautiful airs from the operas; an extraordinary variety of
brilliant costumes, all lighted up by the eternally deep-blue sky; ladies
and peasants, and officers in full uniform,--and you may conceive that it
must have been altogether a varied and curious spectacle.
About half-past six, a flourish of trumpets announced the president, who
came in uniform with his staff, and took his seat to the music of "Guerra!
Guerra! I bellici trombi." Shortly after the matadors and picadors, the
former on foot, the latter on horseback, made their entry, saluting all
around the arena, and were received with loud cheering.
Bernardo's dress of blue and silver was very superb, and cost him five
hundred dollars. The signal was given--the gates were thrown open, and a
bull sprang into the arena; not a great, fierce-looking animal, as they are
in Spain, but a small, angry, wild-looking beast, with a troubled eye.
"Thrice sounds the clarion; lo! the signal falls,
The den expands, and expectation mute
Gapes round the silent circle's peopled walls.
Bounds with one lashing spring the mighty brute,
And, wildly staring, spurns with sounding foot
The sand, nor blindly rushes on his foe;
Here, there, he points his threatening front, to suit
His first attack, wide waving to and fro
His angry tail; red rolls his eye's dilated glow."
A picture equally correct and poetical. That first _pose_ of the bull is
superb! Pasta, in her Medea, did not surpass it. Meanwhile the matadors and
the _banderilleros_ shook their coloured scarfs at him--the picadors poked
at him with their lances. He rushed at the first, and tossed up the scarfs
which they threw at him, while they sprung over the arena; galloped after
the others, striking the horses, so that along with their riders they
occasionally rolled in the dust; both, however, almost instantly recovering
their equilibrium, in which there is no time to be lost. Then the matadors
would throw fireworks, crackers adorned with streaming ribbons, which stuck
on his horns, as he tossed his head, enveloped him in a blaze of fire.
Occasionally the picador would catch hold of the bull's tail, and passing
it under his own right leg, wheel his horse round, force the bullock to
gallop backwards, and throw him on his face.
Maddened with pain, streaming with blood, stuck full of darts, and covered
with fireworks, the unfortunate beast went galloping round and round,
plunging blindly at man and horse, and frequently trying to leap the
barrier, but driven back by the waving hats and shouting of the crowd. At
last, as he stood at bay, and nearly exhausted, the matador ran up and gave
him the mortal blow, considered a peculiar proof of skill. The bull
stopped, as if he felt that his hour were come, staggered, made a few
plunges at nothing, and fell. A finishing stroke, and the bull expired.
The trumpets sounded, the music played. Four horses galloped in tied to a
yoke, to which the bull was fastened, and swiftly dragged out of the arena.
This last part had a fine effect, reminding one of the Roman sacrifice. In
a similar manner, eight bulls were done to death. The scene is altogether
fine, the address amusing, but the wounding and tormenting of the bull is
sickening, and as here the tips of his horns are blunted, one has more
sympathy with him than with his human adversaries. It cannot be good to
accustom a people to such bloody sights.
Yet let me confess, that though at first I covered my face and could not
look, little by little I grew so much interested in the scene, that I could
not take my eyes off it, and I can easily understand the pleasure taken in
these barbarous diversions by those accustomed to them from childhood.
The bull-fight having terminated amidst loud and prolonged cheering from
the crowd, a tree of fireworks, erected in the midst of the arena, was
lighted, and amidst a blaze of coloured light, appeared, first the Arms of
the Republic, the Eagle and Nopal; and above, a full-length portrait of
C---n! represented by a figure in a blue and silver uniform. Down fell the
Mexican eagle with a crash at his feet, while he remained burning brightly,
and lighted up by fireworks, in the midst of tremendous shouts and cheers.
Thus terminated this "_función extraordinaria_;" and when all was over, we
went to dine at Countess C---a's; had some music in the evening, and
afterwards returned home tolerably tired.
10th.--The fancy ball took place last evening in the theatre, and although,
owing either to the change of climate, or to the dampness of the house, I
have been obliged to keep my room since the day of the bull-fight, and to
decline a pleasant dinner at the English Minister's, I thought it advisable
to make my appearance there. Having discarded the costume of the light-
headed Poblamanas, I adopted that of a virtuous Roman Contadina, simple
enough to be run up in one day; a white skirt, red bodice, with blue
ribbons, and lace veil put on square behind; _à propos_ to which
head-dress, it is very common amongst the Indians to wear a piece of stuff
folded square, and laid flat upon the head, in this Italian fashion; and as
it is not fastened, I cannot imagine how they trot along, without letting
it fall.
We went to the theatre about eleven, and found the _entrée_, though crowded
with carriages, very quiet and orderly. The _coup d'oeil_ on entering was
extremely gay, and certainly very amusing. The ball, given for the benefit
of the poor, was under the patronage of the ladies C---a, G---a, Guer---a,
and others, but such was the original dirtiness and bad condition of the
theatre, that to make it decent, they had expended nearly all the proceeds.
As it was, and considering the various drawbacks, the arrangements were
very good. Handsome lustres had superseded the lanterns with their tallow
candles, the boxes were hung with bright silk draperies, and a canopy of
the same drawn up in the form of a tent, covered the whole ball-room. The
orchestra also was tolerably good. The boxes were filled with ladies,
presenting an endless succession of China crape shawls of every colour and
variety, and a monotony of diamond earrings; while in the theatre itself,
if ever a ball might be termed a fancy-ball, this was that ball. Of Swiss
peasants, Scotch peasants, and all manner of peasants, there were a goodly
assortment; as also of Turks, Highlanders, and men in plain clothes. But
being public, it was not, of course, select, and amongst many well-dressed
people, there were hundreds who, assuming no particular character, had
exerted their imagination to appear merely fanciful, and had succeeded.
One, for example, would have a scarlet satin petticoat, and over it a pink
satin robe, with scarlet ribbons to match. Another, a short blue satin
dress, beneath which appeared a handsome purple satin petticoat; the whole
trimmed with yellow bows. They looked like the signs of the zodiac. All had
diamonds and pearls; old and young, and middle-aged; including little
children, of whom there were many.
The lady patronesses were very elegant. The Señora de Guer---a, wore a
head-dress in the form of a net, entirely composed of large pearls and
diamonds; in itself a fortune. The Señora de C---a, as Madame de la
Valliere, in black velvet and diamonds, looking pretty as usual, but the
cold of the house obliged her to muffle up in furs and boas, and so to hide
her dress. The Señora de G---a, as Mary, Queen of Scots, in black velvet
and pearls, with a splendid diamond necklace, was extremely handsome; she
wore a cap, introduced by the Albini, in the character of the Scottish
Queen, but which, though pretty in itself, is a complete deviation from the
beautiful simplicity of the real Queen-Mary cap. She certainly looked as if
she had arrived at her prime without knowing Fotheringay.
Various ladies were introduced to me who are only waiting to receive our
cards of _faire part_ before they call. Amongst the girls, the best dresses
that I observed were the Señoritas de F---d, the one handsome, with the
figure and face of a Spanish peasant; the other much more graceful and
intelligent-looking, though with less actual beauty. However, so many of
the most fashionable people were in their boxes, that I am told this is not
a good occasion on which to judge of the beauty or style of toilet of the
Mexican women; besides which, these fancy balls being uncommon, they would
probably look better in their usual costume. Upon the whole, I saw few
striking beauties, little grace, and very little good dancing. There was
too much velvet and satin, and the dresses were too much loaded. The
diamonds, though superb, were frequently ill-set. The dresses, compared
with the actual fashion, were absurdly short, and the feet, naturally
small, were squeezed into shoes still smaller, which is destructive to
grace, whether in walking or dancing.
I saw many superb pairs of eyes, and beautiful hands and arms, perfect
models for a sculptor, the hands especially; and very few good complexions.
There was a young gentleman pointed out to me as being in the costume of a
Highlander! How I wished that Sir William Cumming, Macleod of Macleod, or
some veritable Highland chieftain could suddenly have appeared to
annihilate him, and show the people here what the dress really is! There
were various unfortunate children bundled up in long satin or velvet
dresses, covered with blond and jewels, and with artificial flowers in
their hair.
The room was excessively cold, nor was the ancient odour of the theatre
entirely obliterated; nor indeed do I think that all the perfumes of Arabia
would overpower it. Having walked about, and admired all the varieties of
fancy costumes, I, being nearly frozen, went to the Countess C---a's box on
the pit tier, and enveloped myself in a cloak. They pointed out the most
distinguished persons in the boxes, amongst others the family of the E---s,
who seem very handsome, with brilliant colours and fine teeth. We remained
until three in the morning, and declined all offers of refreshment, though,
after all, a cup of hot chocolate would not have been amiss. There was
supper somewhere, but I believe attended only by gentlemen. I had the
satisfaction in passing out to see numerous ladies on their partners' arms,
and all bedizened as they were with finery, stop under the lamps, and light
their cigars,--cool and pretty.
16th.--I have passed nearly a week in a slight fever; shivering and hot. I
was attended by a doctor of the country, who seems the most harmless
creature imaginable. Every day he felt my pulse, and gave me some little
innocent mixture. But what he especially gave me was a lesson in polite
conversation. Every day we had the following dialogue, as he rose to take
leave:
"Madam!" (this by the bedside) "I am at your service."
"Many thanks, sir."
"Madam!" (this at the foot of the bed) "know me for your most humble
servant."
"Good morning, sir."
"Madam!" (here he stopped beside a table) "I kiss your feet."
"Sir, I kiss your hand."
"Madam!" (this near the door) "my poor house, and all in it, myself though
useless, all I have, is yours."
"Many thanks, sir."
He turns round and opens the door, again turning round as he does so.
"Adieu, madam! your servant."
"Adieu, sir."
He goes out, partly reopens the door, and puts in his head--"Good morning,
madam!"
This civility so lengthened out, as if parting were such "sweet sorrow,"
between doctor and patient, seems rather misplaced. It is here considered
more polite to say Señorita than Señora, even to married women, and the
lady of the house is generally called by her servants, "La Nina," the
little girl, even though she be over eighty. This last custom is still more
common in Havana, where the old negresses, who have always lived in the
family, and are accustomed to call their young mistress by this name, never
change, whatever be her age.
I have received a packet of letters which have done me more good than the
old doctor's visits. The captain left us yesterday, and took charge of a
box of chocolate stamped with various figures, and of some curious dulces
for you. Our cards, giving the Mexicans the tardy information of our
arrival, were sent out some days ago. I copy one, that you may have a
specimen of the style, which looks for all the world like that of a shop-
advertisement, purporting that Don ----- makes wigs, dresses hair, and so
forth, while Doña ----- washes lace, and does up fine linen.
"Don A---- C---- de la B----, Enviado Extraordinario y Ministro
Plenipotenciario de H. M. C. cerca de la Republica Mexicana; y su Esposa,
Doña F---- E---- C---- de la B----; Participan a su Llegada a este Capital
y se afrecen á su disposición, en la Plazuela de Buenavista, No. 2."[1]
[Footnote 1: Don A---- C---- de la B----, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister
Plenipotentiary from H. C. M.; and his Lady, Doña F---- E---- C---- de la
B----; Inform you of their arrival in this capital, and put themselves at
your disposal, in the street of Buenavista, No. 2.]
18th.--For the last few days our rooms have been filled with visitors, and
my eyes are scarcely yet accustomed to the display of diamonds, pearls,
silks, satins, blondes, and velvets, in which the ladies have paid their
first visits of etiquette. A few of the dresses I shall record for your
benefit, not as being richer than the others, but that I happen to
recollect them best.--The Marquesa de San Roman, an old lady who has
travelled a great deal in Europe, and is very distinguished for talents and
information. She has the Grand Cross of Maria Louisa of Spain, is of a
noble Venetian family, and aunt to the Duke of Canizzaro. Her dress was a
very rich black Genoa velvet, black blonde mantilla, and a very splendid
parure of diamonds. She seems in exceedingly delicate health. She and her
contemporaries are fast fading away, the last record of the days of
Viceroyalty. In their place a new race have started up, whose manners and
appearance have little of the _vieille cour_ about them; chiefly. It is
said, wives of military men, sprung from the hotbeds of the revolutions,
ignorant and full of pretensions, as _parvenus_ who have risen by chance
and not by merit must be. I continue my list after the fashion of the Court
Journal.
Countess de S---o. Under dress of rich violet satin, gown of black blonde,
mantilla of black blonde, diamond earrings, five or six large diamond
brooches fastening the mantilla, necklace of large pearls and diamond
sevigne. The Señora S----. Dress of white satin, gown of white blonde,
white blonde mantilla, pearls, diamonds, and white satin shoes. Madame
S---r. Black velvet dress, white blonde mantilla, pearls, diamonds, short
sleeves, and white satin shoes. The Señora de A---d. Fawn-coloured satin
dress, black blonde mantilla, diamonds, and black satin shoes.
The Señora B---a, the wife of a General, extremely rich, and who has the
handsomest house in Mexico. Dress of purple velvet, embroidered all over
with flowers of white silk, short sleeves, and embroidered corsage; white
satin shoes and has _bas à jour_; a deep flounce of Mechlin appearing below
the velvet dress, which was short. A mantilla of black blonde, fastened by
three diamond aigrettes. Diamond earrings of extraordinary size. A diamond
necklace of immense value, and beautifully set. A necklace of pear pearls,
valued at twenty thousand dollars. A diamond sévigné. A gold chain going
three times round the neck, and touching the knees. On every finger two
diamond rings, like little watches. As no other dress was equally
magnificent, with her I conclude my description, only observing that no
Mexican lady has yet paid me her first morning visit without diamonds. They
have few opportunities for displaying their jewels, so that were it not on
the occasion of some such morning visit of etiquette, the diamonds would
lie in their cases, wasting their serene rays in darkness.
Last night an attempt was made to break into the house, but our fine little
bull-dog Hercules, a present from Señor A---d, kept his ground so well, and
barked so furiously, that the servants were awakened, even the porter, the
soundest slumberer amongst them; and the robbers escaped without doing
further mischief than inflicting a severe wound on the poor animal's paw,
which has made him for the present quite lame.
_A propos_ to which matters, a most cruel murder, of which I have just been
hearing the particulars, was committed not very long ago in this
neighbourhood, upon Mr. M----, the Swiss consul. He was also a
leather-merchant, and one morning having sent out his porter on some
commission, a carriage drove up to the door, and three gentlemen presented
themselves to Mr. M----, requesting to speak to him on business. He begged
them to walk in, and there entered a general in uniform, a young officer,
and a monk. Mr. M---- requested to be informed of their business, when
suddenly the general, seizing hold of him, whilst the others went to secure
the door, exclaimed, "We have not come to hear about your goods, we want
your money." The poor man, astounded at perceiving the nature of his
customers, assured them he kept but little money in the house, but
proceeded instantly to open his private drawers, and empty their contents,
amounting, in fact, to a trifle of some few hundred dollars. Finding that
he had indeed no more to give them they prepared to depart, when the _monk_
said, "We must kill him, or he will recognise us." "No," said the officers,
"leave him and come along. There is no danger." "Go on," said the monk, "I
follow;" and, turning back, stabbed the consul to the heart. The three then
re-entered the carriage, and drove off at full speed. A few minutes
afterwards the porter returning found his master bathed in blood, and
rushing out to a neighbouring gambling-house, gave the alarm. Several
gentlemen ran to his assistance, but he died in an hour after, having given
all the particulars of the dress and appearance of his murderers, and that
of their carriage. By these tokens they were soon afterwards discovered,
and by the energy of the Governor, then Count C---a, they were arrested and
hanged upon the trees in front of our house, together with the _real_
Mexican colonel, who had kindly lent the ruffians his carriage for the
occasion. It is seldom that crime here meets with so prompt a punishment.
Our friend, Count C---a, when Governor of Mexico, was celebrated for his
energy in "_el persiguimiento de los ladrones_," (persecuting the robbers,)
as it is called. It is said upon one occasion his zeal carried him rather
far. Various robberies having been committed in the city, he had received a
hint from the government, that the escape of the perpetrators was
considered by them as a proof that he had grown lukewarm in the public
service. A few days afterwards, riding in the streets, he perceived a
notorious robber, who, the moment he observed himself recognised, darted
down another street with the swiftness of an arrow. The governor pursued
him on horseback; the robber made all speed towards the Square, and rushed
into the sanctuary of the cathedral. The count galloped in after him, and
dragged him from his place of refuge near the altar. This violation of the
church's sanctity was, of course, severely reprimanded, but, as the
governor remarked, they could no longer accuse him of want of zeal in the
discharge of his duty.
He took as his porter the captain of a gang of robbers, ordering him to
stand at the door, and to seize any of his former acquaintances who might
pass, his own pardon depending on his conduct in this respect. Riding out
one day to his country place with his lady, this man accompanying them as a
servant, they were overtaken by a messenger, who desired the return of the
count to the city, upon some urgent and important business. It was already
dusk, yet the count, trusting to the honour of the robber, ordered him to
conduct his lady to the hacienda; and she alone, on horseback, with this
alarming guide, performed her journey in safety.
Before I conclude this letter, I must tell you that I received a visit this
morning from a very remarkable character, well known here by the name of
_La Guera_ (the fair) _Rodriguez_, said to have been many years ago
celebrated by Humboldt as the most beautiful woman he had seen in the whole
course of his travels. Considering the lapse of time which has passed since
that distinguished traveller visited these parts, I was almost astonished
when her card was sent up with a request for admission, and still more so
to find that in spite of years and of the furrows which it pleases Time to
plough in the loveliest faces, La Guera retains a profusion of fair curls
without one gray hair, a set of beautiful white teeth, very fine eyes, and
great vivacity.
Her sister, the Marquesa de Juluapa, lately dead, is said to have been also
a woman of great talent and extraordinary conversational powers; she is
another of the ancient noblesse who has dropped off. The physician who
attended her in her last illness, a Frenchman of the name of Plan, in great
repute here, has sent in a bill to her executors of ten thousand dollars,
which, although it does not excite any great astonishment, the family
refuse to pay, and there is a lawsuit in consequence. The extortions of
medical men in Mexico, especially of foreign physicians, have arrived at
such a height, that a person of moderate fortune must hesitate before
putting himself into their hands.[1] A rich old lady in delicate health,
and with no particular complaint, is a surer fund for them than a silver-
mine.
[Footnote 1: The Mexican Government has since taken this matter into
consideration, and is making regulations which render it necessary for a
medical man to possess a certain degree of knowledge, and to have resided a
specified time in the city, before he is permitted to practise; they are
also occupied in fixing a certain sum for medical attendance.]
I found La Guera very agreeable, and a perfect living chronicle. She is
married to her third husband, and had three daughters, all celebrated
beauties; the Countess de Regla, who died in New York, and was buried in
the cathedral there; the Marquesa de Guadalupe, also dead, and the Marquesa
de A---a, now a handsome widow. We spoke of Humboldt, and talking of
herself as of a third person, she related to me all the particulars of his
first visit, and his admiration of her; that she was then very young,
though married, and the mother of two children, and that when he came to
visit her mother, she was sitting sewing in a corner where the baron did
not perceive her; until talking very earnestly on the subject of cochineal,
he inquired if he could visit a certain district where there was a
plantation of nopals. "To be sure," said La Guera from her corner; "we can
take M. de Humboldt there;" whereupon he first perceiving her, stood
amazed, and at length exclaimed, _"Valgame Dios! who is that girl?"_
Afterwards he was constantly with her, and more captivated, it is said, by
her wit than by her beauty, considering her a sort of western Madame de
Stael; all which leads me to suspect that the grave traveller was
considerably under the influence of her fascinations, and that neither
mines nor mountains, geography nor geology, petrified shells nor
_alpenkalkstein_, had occupied him to the exclusion of a slight _stratum_
of flirtation. It is a comfort to think that "sometimes even the great
Humboldt nods."
One of La Guera's stories is too original to be lost. A lady of high rank
having died in Mexico, her relatives undertook to commit her to her last
resting-place, habited according to the then prevailing fashion, in her
most magnificent dress, that which she had worn at her wedding. This dress
was a wonder of luxury, even in Mexico. It was entirely composed of the
finest lace, and the flounces were made of a species of point which cost
fifty dollars a _vara_ (the Mexican yard). Its equal was unknown. It was
also ornamented and looped up at certain intervals with bows of ribbon very
richly embroidered in gold. In this dress, the Condesa de ----- was laid in
her coffin, thousands of dear friends crowding to view her beautiful
_costume de mort_, and at length she was placed in her tomb, the key of
which was intrusted to the sacristan.
From the tomb to the opera is a very abrupt transition; nevertheless, both
have a share in this story. A company of French dancers appeared in Mexico,
a twentieth-rate ballet, and the chief danseuse was a little French damsel,
remarkable for the shortness of her robes, her coquetry, and her
astonishing pirouettes. On the night of a favourite ballet, Mademoiselle
Pauline made her _entrée_ in a succession of pirouettes, and poising on her
toe, looked round for approbation, when a sudden thrill of horror,
accompanied by a murmur of indignation, pervaded the assembly. Mademoiselle
Pauline was equipped in the very dress in which the defunct countess had
been buried!
Lace, point flounces, gold ribbons; impossible to mistake it. Hardly had
the curtain dropped, when the little danseuse found herself surrounded by
competent authorities, questioning her as to where and how she had obtained
her dress. She replied that she had bought it at an extravagant price from
a French _modiste_ in the city. She had rifled no tomb, but honestly paid
down golden ounces, in exchange for her lawful property. To the modiste's
went the officers of justice. She also pleaded innocent. She had bought it
of a man who had brought it to her for sale, and had paid him much more
than _à poids d'or_, as indeed it was worth. By dint of further
investigation, the man was identified, and proved to be the sacristan of
San -----. Short-sighted sacristan! He was arrested and thrown into prison,
and one benefit resulted from his cupidity, since in order to avoid
throwing temptation in the way of future sacristans, it became the custom,
after the body had lain in state for some time in magnificent robes, to
substitute a plain dress previous to placing the coffin in the vault. A
poor vanity after all.
I was told by a lady here, that on the death of her grandchild, he was not
only enveloped in rich lace, but the diamonds of three condesas and four
marquesas were collected together and put on him, necklaces, bracelets,
rings, brooches and tiaras, to the value of several hundred thousand
dollars. The street was hung with draperies, and a band of music played,
whilst he was visited by all the titled relatives of the family in his dead
splendour, poor little baby! Yet his mother mourned for him as for all her
blighted hopes, and the last scion of a noble house. Grief shows itself in
different ways; yet one might think that when it seeks consolation in
display, it must be less profound than when it shuns it.