The beauty of Cambridge does not consist in broad streets or in

imposing public buildings. The greater Colleges lie with their

gatehouses towards the town, their courts and lawns stretching

towards the river, which is spanned by their private bridges. Beyond

the river the eye is charmed with a vista of tall trees and flowery

gardens. In every College there lurk particular treasures. Corpus

Christi, with its old Court abutting on the Saxon Church of St.

Benet, where in bygone days the scholars were wont to worship, can

show the hall in which Kit Marlowe dined and Parker presided. This

College has one of the most interesting libraries in the University,

and one of the best collections of plate in the country. Jesus

College has an unique chapel. Norman and Early English masonry, fine

old stalls, and a mediæval organ may here be seen, and, for those who

care for such things, there are windows by Morris and Burne-Jones.

Examples of Wren's work in Cambridge have already been noticed. The

bridge built from his designs at St. John's is illustrated in the

present volume. No one should miss all there is to see in this

stately College. The Combination Room is a typical Tudor gallery;

and on Feast Nights, when illuminated with wax candles in silver

sconces, it presents a picture unforgetably beautiful. Trinity and

St. John's are the only Colleges possessed of statuary. In the

anti-chapel of the former College the statues of Newton, Bacon,

Barrow, Macaulay, Whewell, and Tennyson form a striking group. That

of Newton is by Roubiliac, and some busts by this admirable master

may be seen in the College library, where too is the celebrated

statue of Byron by Thorwaldsen, and numerous enrichments of the

bookcases by the hand of Grinling Gibbons. This library, which is

one of the principal Collegiate libraries in Europe, has over 100,000

volumes. Among its manuscripts are the celebrated Canterbury

Psalter, a volume of Milton manuscripts (including the first sketch

of _Paradise Lost_), the manuscript of Tennyson's _In Memoriam_, that

of Thackeray's _Esmond_, and several Byron manuscripts. The library

of St. John's College is second only to that at Trinity. It is

approached by a staircase of singular beauty. At Magdalene is the

Pepys Library; and the libraries of Peterhouse, Trinity Hall, and

Queens' are good specimens of mediæval college collections. The

University has two public libraries. Of these the University Library

proper enjoys the right to a copy of every book printed in the realm.

It numbers some 500,000 volumes, and is rich in every kind of

literature. The rule which allows M.A.'s and certain B.A.'s to

borrow books, and which gives readers access to the shelves, makes

this library, as Lord Acton said, "the only useful library in

Europe". The library of the Fitzwilliam Museum includes a remarkable

collection of musical manuscripts, the most valuable of which are

manuscripts of Bach, Handel, and Beethoven.

During the last hundred years Cambridge has been enriched with

numerous laboratories and several collegiate institutions. Of the

latter the most important is Downing College, built in 1805. Two

professors have their maintenance here: one of Medicine, the other of

the Laws of England. On Downing property the present Law Schools,

Geological Museum, and other of the more recent habitations of

science have been built. The great Cavendish Laboratory, to which

the seventh Duke of Devonshire was a conspicuous benefactor, was

built in 1874. Almost every branch of science now possesses its

special museum, while art and the study of antiquities are served by

the Fitzwilliam and the Archæological Museums.

Cambridge to-day is a large and complex community: the undergraduate

population alone has reached nearly four thousand souls. The Senate,

or body of M.A.'s having voting powers in the government of the

University, numbers over seven thousand persons; while the total

number of members of the University who still keep their names "on

the boards" stands at 14,758. Every kind of study, from astral

chemistry to engineering, finds among this mass of people some

professed teachers and eager students.

All this has not been a matter of natural growth. The nineteenth

century saw far-reaching changes imposed upon the University; though

for some time, most Fellows of Colleges were still required to take

Orders, and the rule of celibacy was enforced. By the removal of

these restrictions and by the abolition of Religious Tests, the

University has reaped much benefit. But it has not been all gain.

The amenities of College life in many of the smaller societies have

been considerably interfered with, and that "corporate sense" which

has hitherto been the strength of the college system has been

weakened. On the other hand, the additions which have been made to

the recognized fields of intellectual activity have indisputably made

for the utility of Cambridge as a centre of education; though it is

possible that the demand for young teachers, both public and private,

by drawing men away from private study, may tend to lessen the value

of the University as a contemplative body. Of this danger not

everyone seems unconscious.

[Illustration: CLARE COLLEGE FROM THE BACKS]

As the seventeenth century was the age of Bacon, and the eighteenth

century that of Newton, so the nineteenth century has been called the

age of Darwin. Thus has Cambridge sent three of her sons to

revolutionize the study of Natural Philosophy. Among Cambridge

scientists of modern times are Adams, Airy, Herschell,

Clarke-Maxwell, Stokes, Lords Kelvin, Rayleigh, Avebury, Sir James

Dewar, and Sir Joseph Thompson. Cambridge as a school of medicine

has been celebrated ever since the time of Caius. Its importance at

the present moment is largely owing to the life and labour of the

late Sir Michael Foster. Numerous Cambridge men have held

professorships at Oxford during the century. The names of Maine, Sir

F. Pollock, and Mr. Sidgwick at once occur to the mind; and to-day

the chairs of Astronomy, Physics, Botany, Classical Archæology, and

English Literature in that University are occupied by Cambridge men.

From Cambridge, too, come the Astronomer Royal, his immediate

predecessor, and most of the provincial and colonial astronomers.

Popular fallacies die hard. But it is indeed remarkable that

Cambridge should be supposed to give herself over to mathematical

studies, when it is remembered that she produced in Bentley and

Person the two greatest classics that England ever knew; while in the

nineteenth century Munro, Jebb, and Headlam have won European

reputations as classical scholars; and, of the older Universities,

Cambridge alone confers a purely classical degree. The Cambridge

School of Theology is associated with the names of Westcott,

Lightfoot, and Hort.

Modern Cambridge has been prolific in men of letters: Byron,

Macaulay, Thackeray, Kinglake, Tennyson, Fitzgerald, Grote, Kingsley,

Seely, F. D. Maurice, Samuel Butler, Leslie Stephen, and Maitland are

names taken at random. The list of her public men is a long one and

includes the great Whig peers from Palmerston, Melbourne, Grey, and

Lansdowne to such men as the late Duke of Devonshire and the late

Earl Spencer: the senior branch of the House of Cecil has been

uniformly faithful to Cambridge since the days of the great Lord

Burleigh. The Manners family have been as stoutly Cambridge; and the

late Duke of Rutland, better known as Lord John Manners, was a

familiar figure in the University. It is a Cambridge College that

can claim at this moment the Speaker, the Lord Chief Justice, the

Leader of the House of Lords, the Leader of the Opposition in the

Commons, the Viceroy of India, the Ex-Viceroy, and the retiring

Governor-General of Canada.

Cambridge as a home of legal studies has been famous since the

sixteenth century: Lyndhurst, Cranworth, Pollock, Fitzjames Stephen

are legal luminaries of modern times. Trinity Hall is the College

with which the study of law is particularly associated. For two

hundred years this College practically controlled the Court of

Arches, which until the nineteenth century was some way advanced took

cognizance of all Probate and Admiralty cases, as well as of causes

arising out of ecclesiastical jurisdictions. For some time the

Masters and Fellows appointed the Dean of Arches, and the Master

enjoyed a right to rooms in Doctors' Commons. Among learned

Civilians who have presided over the destinies of "the Hall" are Sir

James Exton, Sir Nathaniel Lloyd, Sir Edward Simpson, and Sir William

Wynne. The last of this order (for the Court of Arches lost its

civil jurisdiction at this time) was Sir Herbert Jenner Fust, whose

name will long be remembered in connection with the celebrated Gorham

judgment. Sir Herbert was succeeded in the Mastership by the late

Sir Henry Summer Maine, of Pembroke College, sometime Corpus

Professor of Jurisprudence at Oxford.

The reputation of a College for this or that study is, however, less

precious to its more thoughtful inmates than are those associations

with famous men long since dead which cling to every grove and every

court in Cambridge: to Byron's pool at Grantchester; to Milton's

mulberry tree in the Fellows' garden at Christ's; to the little tower

at Queens' in which Erasmus studied; to the rooms occupied by Gray at

Pembroke; to Newton's at Trinity; or to Wordsworth's at St. John's.

Sometimes such traditions are well founded; but if they be not, what

matter? The strength and value of such things lie in their power to

cause even the youngest of us to see humanity as a grave pageant, of

which we may be witnesses though only for a space. But membership of

an English University carries with it experiences more personal and

more intimate than these. A man may deem himself to be bestowing

scant notice upon his surroundings, and yet there are a hundred

impressions made upon him by sights and sounds, in these his student

days, which pass pattern-wise into the fabric of his nature. Other

phases of College life are remembered in more detail: hours passed in

anxious study for the schools; boisterous gatherings when, with old

wine in young bellies, almost anything seemed worth the saying; eager

struggles in the field or upon the river, when the glory of the

College really did seem to depend upon the muscles of some eight or

fifteen carefully-dieted young men. One recalls these states of mind

as facts; but they have no corresponding values in the world of

sense. The really haunting memories are those of particular

firesides; of the outlook from this or that window seat; of a moonlit

court in summer-time, of the scent of flowers there and of the babble

of the fountain; of choir music by taper light in winter; and of the

ordered chimes leisurely perpetuating their Tudor cadences. Such

thoughts, such recollections

"The past bestows on us,

Like showers along the dusty roads of life,

Or welcome sunbeams on some bleak grey morn,

Cheering the soul in her long pilgrimage".

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