Let it be understood that I do not intend to speak very much about the

excellent people who are kind enough to label themselves as "Society,"

for I have had quite enough experience of them at one time and another,

and my impressions are not of a peculiarly reverential kind. "Company"

among the set who regard themselves as the cream of England's--and

consequently of the world's--population is something so laborious, so

useless, so exhausting that I cannot imagine any really rational person

attending a "function" (that is the proper name) if Providence had left

open the remotest chance of running away; at any rate, the rational

person would not endure more than one experience. For, when the

clear-seeing outsider looks into "Society," and studies the members who

make up the little clique, he is smitten with thoughts that lie too deep

for tears--or laughter. A perfectly fresh mind, when brought to bear on

the "Society" phenomenon, asks, "What are these people? What have they

done? What are they particularly fitted for? Is there anything noble

about them? Is their conversation at all charming? Are any of them

really happy?" And to all of these queries the most disappointing

answers must be returned. Take the men. Here is a marquis who is a

Knight of the Garter. He has held offices in several Cabinets; he can

control the votes spread over a very large slice of a county, and his

income amounts to some trifle like one hundred and eighty thousand

pounds per year. We may surely expect something of the superb

aristocratic grace here, and surely a chance word of wit may drop from a

man who has been in the most influential of European assemblies! Alas!

The potentate crosses his hand over his comfortable stomach, and his

contributions to the entertainment of the evening amount to occasional

ejaculations of "Ugh! Ugh!" "Hah!" "Hey!" "Exactly!" "Ugh! Ugh!" In the

higher spheres of intellect and breeding I have no doubt but that "Ugh!

Ugh!" "Hah!" "Hey!" may have some profound significance; but, to say the

least, it is not obviously weighty. The marchioness is sweet in manner,

grave, reposeful, and with a flash of wit at disposal--not too obvious

wit--that would offend against the canon which ordains restraint; but

she might, one thinks, become tiresome in an hour. No one could say that

her manners were anything but absolutely simple, yet the very simplicity

is so obviously maintained as a sort of gymnastic effort that it tires

us only to study it. Then here is a viscount, graceful, well-set, easy

in his pose, talking with a deep voice, and lisping to the faintest

degree. He has owned some horses, caused some scandals, waltzed some

waltzes, and eaten a very large number of good dinners: he has been

admired by many, hated by many, threatened by many, and he would not be

admitted to any refined middle-class home; yet here he is in his

element, and no one would think of questioning his presence. He never

uttered a really wise or helpful word in his life, he never did anything

save pamper himself--his precious self--and yet he is in "Society," and

reckoned as rather an authority too! These are only types, but, if you

run through them all, you must discover that only the sweet and splendid

girls who have not had time to be spoilt and soured are worth thinking

about. If there is dancing, it is of course carried out with perfect

grace and composure; if there is merely an assembly, every one looks as

well as possible, and every one stares at every one else with an air as

indifferent as possible. But the child of nature asks in wild

bewilderment, "Where on earth does the human companionship come in?"

Young girls are nowadays beginning to expect bright talk from their

partners, and the ladies have a singularly pretty way of saying the most

biting things in a smooth and unconcerned fashion when they find a dunce

beginning to talk platitudes or to patronize his partner; but the middle

generation are unspeakably inane; and the worst is that they regard

their inanity as a decided sign of distinction. A grave man who adds a

sense of humour to his gravity may find a sort of melancholy

entertainment if he listens to a pair of thorough-paced "Society"

gentry. He will learn that you do not go to a "function" to please

others or to be pleased yourself; you must not be witty--that is bad

form; you must not be quietly in earnest--that is left to literary

people; you must not speak plain, direct truth even in the most

restrained fashion--that is to render yourself liable to be classified

as a savage. No. You go to a "function" in order, firstly, to see who

else is there; secondly, to let others see you; thirdly, to be able to

say to absentees that you saw they were not there; fourthly, to say,

with a liquid roll on the "ll," "She's looking remarkably wellll."

These are the great and glorious duties of the Society person. A little

funny creature was once talking to a writer of some distinction. The

little funny man would have been like a footman if he had been eight

inches taller, for his manners savoured of the pantry. As it was, he

succeeded in resembling a somewhat diminutive valet who had learnt his

style and accent from a cook. The writer, out of common politeness,

spoke of some ordinary topic, and the valet observed with honest pride,

"_We_ don't talk about that sort of thing." The writer smiled grimly

from under his jutting brows, and he repeated that valet's terrific

repartee for many days. The actual talk which goes on runs in this way,

"Quite charming weather!" "Yes, very." "I didn't see you at Lady Blank's

on Tuesday?" "No; we could hardly arrange to suit times at all." "She

was looking uncommonly well. The new North-Country girl has come out."

"So I've heard." "Going to Goodwood?" "Yes. We take Brighton this time

with the Sendalls." And so on. It dribbles for the regulation time, and,

after a sufficient period of mortal endurance, the crowd disperse, and

proceed to scandalize each other or to carry news elsewhere about the

ladies who were looking "remarkably well-l-l."

As for the dreadful crushes, what can one say? The absurd rooms where

six hundred people try to move about in a space meant for three hundred;

the staircase a Black-Hole tempered by flowers; the tired smile of the

hostess; the set simper of long-recked shaven young men; the patient,

tortured hypocrisy of hustled and heated ladies; the babble of scrappy

nothings; the envy, hatred, malice, and all uncharitableness; the

magnificence turned into meanness; the lack of all feeling of home, and

the discontented dispersal of ungrateful people--are these the things to

occupy life? Are these the things to interest any manly man who is free

to act for himself? Hardly.

But our "company" refers to the meeting of human souls and hearts, and

not to the meeting of a fortuitous concourse of male and female

evening-dresses. I have now before me a very brilliant published account

of a reception at George Eliot's house. Those assemblies were company,

and company of the finest kind. The exaggerated fuss made by the sibyl's

husband in order to secure silence while she was speaking sometimes

became a little embarrassing when men of a humorous turn were there; but

nevertheless the best in England met in that drawing-room, and all that

was highest in literature, science, and art was talked over in graceful

fashion. The sniffing drawl of Society and the impudent affectation of

cynicism were not to be found; and grave men and women--some of them

mournful enough, it may be--agreed to make the useful hours fleet to

some profit. No man or woman in England--or in Europe for that

matter--was unwilling to enter that modest but brilliant assemblage, and

I wish some one could have taken minute notes, though that of course

would have been too entirely shocking. When I think of that little

deep-voiced lady gathering the choicest spirits of her day together, and

keeping so many notes in tuneful chime, I hardly know whether to use

superlatives of admiration about her or superlatives of contempt about

the fribbles who crush each other on staircases and babble like parrots

in an aviary. If we cast back a little, we have another example of an

almost perfect company. People have talked of Johnson, Burke, Boswell,

Beauclerc, and Goldsmith until the subject is growing a thought stale;

but, unless a reader takes Boswell and reads the book attentively after

he has come to maturity, he can hardly imagine how fine was that

admirable company. They were men of high aims and strong sense; they

talked at their very best, and they talked because they wished to attain

clear views of life and fate. The old gladiator sometimes argued for

victory, but that was only in moments of whim, and he was always ready

to acknowledge when he was in error. Those men may sometimes have drunk

too much wine; they may have spoken platitudes on occasion; but they

were good company for each other, and the hearty, manly friendship which

all but poor Goldsmith and Boswell felt for every one else was certainly

excellent. Assemblies like the Club are impossible nowadays; but surely

we might find some modification suited even to our gigantic intellects

and our exaggerated cleverness! I have defined bad company; I may define

good company as that social intercourse which tends to bring out all

that is best in man. I have said my bitter word about the artificial

society of the capital; but I never forget the lovely quiet circles

which meet in places far away from the blare of the city. In especial I

may refer to the beautiful family assemblies which are almost

self-centred. The girls are all at home, but the boys are scattered.

Harry writes from India, with all sorts of gossip from Simla, and many

longings for home; a neighbour calls, and the Indian letter gives matter

for pleasant half-melancholy chat. Then the quiet evening passes with

books and placid casual talk; the nerves from the family stretch perhaps

all over the world, but all the threads converge on one centre. This

life is led in many places, and the folk who so live are good company

among themselves, and good company for all who meet them.

The very thought of the men who are usually described in set slang

phrases is enough to arouse a shudder. The loud wit who cracks his

prepared witticisms either at the head of a tavern-table or in private

society is a mere horror. The tavern men of the commercial traveller

class are very bad, for their mirth is prepared; their jokes have run

the length and breadth of the United Kingdom, and they are not always

prepared to sacrifice the privilege of being coarse which used to be

regarded as the joker's prerogative. In moving about the world I have

always found that the society of the great commercial room set up for

being jolly, but I could never exactly perceive where the jollity

entered. Noise, sham gentility, the cackle of false laughter were there;

but the strong, sincere cheerfulness of friendly men--never! Yet the

tavern humourist, or even the club joker, is as nothing compared with

the true professional wit. Who can remember that story about Theodore

Hook and the orange? Hook wrote a note to the hostess, saying, "Ask me

at dinner if I will venture on an orange." The lady did so, and then the

brilliant wit promptly made answer, "I'm afraid I should tumble off." A

whole volume of biography is implied in that one gruesome and vulgar

anecdote. In truth, the professional wit is no company at all; he has

the effect of a performing monkey suddenly planted on the table, and

his efforts are usually quite on a level with the monkey's.

Among the higher Bohemian sets--Bohemian they call themselves, as if

there ever was a Bohemian with five hundred a year!--good company is

common. I may say, with fear and much trembling, that the man of

letters, the man who can name you all the Restoration comedies or tell

you the styles of the contemporaries of Alan Chartier is a most terrible

being, and I should risk sharks rather than remain with him on a

desolate island; but a mixed set of artists, musicians, verse-makers,

novelists, critics--yea, even critics--contrive usually to make an

unusually pleasant company. They are all so clever that the professional

wit dares not raise his voice lest some wielder of the bludgeon should

smite him; no long-winded talk is allowed, and, though a bore may once

be admitted to the company, he certainly will never be admitted more

than once. The talk ranges loosely from point to point, and yet a

certain sequence is always observed; the men are freed from conventions;

they like each other and know each other's measure pretty well; so the

hours fly in merry fashion, and the brethren who carried on the

symposium go away well pleased with themselves and with each other.

There can be no good company where the capacity for general agreement is

carried too far in any quarter. Unity of aim, difference of

opinion--those are the elements that make men's conversations valuable.

Last of all, I must declare that there can be no good company unless

women are present. The artists and authors and the rest are all very

well in their way, but the dexterous unseen touch of the lady is

needed; and no man can reckon himself fit to converse at all unless he

has been taught by women's care, and gently reproved by women's

impalpable skill. Young men of our day are beginning to think it

childish or tedious to mix much in women's society; the consequence is

that, though many of them go a long way toward being gentlemen, too many

are the merest cubs that ever exhibited pure loutishness in

conversation. The subtle blending, the light give-and-take of chat

between men and women is the true training which makes men graceful of

tongue, kindly in the use of phrases, and, I believe, pure in heart.

_October, 1888._

_GOING A-WALKING._

One of the most pestilent of all social nuisances is the athlete who

must be eternally performing "feats," and then talking about them. He

goes to the Alps, and, instead of looking at the riot of sunset colour

or the immortal calm of the slumbering peaks, he attempts performances

which might be amusing in a circus of unlimited size, but which are not

in the least interesting when brought off on the mighty declivities of

the great hills. One of these gentlemen takes up a quarter of a volume

in telling us how he first of all climbed up a terrible peak, then fell

backwards and slid down a slope of eight hundred feet, cutting his head

to the bone, and losing enough blood to make him feel faint The same

gentleman had seen two of his companions fly into eternity down the grim

sides of the same mountain; but he must needs climb to the top, not in

order to serve any scientific purpose, or even to secure a striking

view, but merely to say he had been there. After an hour on the summit

of the enormous mass of stone, he came down; and I should have liked to

ask him what he reckoned to be the net profit accruing to him for his

little exploit. Wise men do not want to clamber up immense and dangerous

Alps; there is a kind of heroic lunacy about the business, but it is not

useful, and it certainly is not inviting. If a thoughtful man goes even

in winter among the mountains, their vast repose sinks on his soul; his

love of them never slackens, and he returns again and again to his

haunts until time has stiffened his joints and dulled his eyes, and he

prepares to go down into the dust of death. But the wise man has a

salutary dislike of break-neck situations; he cannot let his sweet or

melancholy fancies free while he is hanging on for dear life to some

inhospitable crag, so he prefers a little moderate exercise of the

muscles, and a good deal of placid gazing on scenes that ennoble his

thoughts and make his imagination more lofty. One of the

mountain-climbing enthusiasts could not contrive to break his neck in

Europe, so, with a gallantry worthy of a better cause, he went to South

America and scaled Chimborazo. He could not quite break his neck even in

the Andes, but he no doubt turned many athletic friends yellow with

envy. Yet another went to the Caucasus, and found so many charming and

almost deadly perils there that he wants numbers of people to go out and

share his raptures.

The same barren competitive spirit breaks out in other directions. Men

will run across the North Sea in a five-ton boat, though there are

scores of big and comfortable steamers to carry them: they are cramped

in their tiny craft; they can get no exercise; their limbs are pained;

they undergo a few days of cruel privation--and all in order that they

may tell how they bore a drenching in a cockboat. On the roads in our

own England we see the same disposition made manifest. The bicyclist

tears along with his head low and his eyes fixed just ahead of the tyre

of his front wheel; he does not enjoy the lovely panorama that flits

past him, he has no definite thought, he only wants to cover so many

miles before dark; save for the fresh air that will whistle past him,

thrilling his blood, he might as well be rolling round on a cinder track

in some running-ground. But the walker--the long-distance walker--is the

most trying of all to the average leisurely and meditative citizen. He

fits himself out with elaborate boots and ribbed stockings; he carries

resin and other medicaments for use in case his feet should give way;

his knapsack is unspeakably stylish, and he posts off like a spirited

thoroughbred running a trial. His one thought is of distances; he gloats

over a milestone which informs him that he is going well up to five and

a half miles per hour, and he fills up his evening by giving spirited

but somewhat trying accounts of the pace at which he did each stage of

his pilgrimage. In the early morning he is astir, not because he likes

to see the diamond dew on the lovely trees or hear the chant of the

birds as they sing of love and thanksgiving--he wants to make a good

start, so that he may devour even more of the way than he did the day

before. In any one lane that he passes through there are scores of

sights that offer a harvest to the quiet eye; but our insatiable athlete

does not want to see anything in particular until the sight of his

evening steak fills him with rapture. If the most patient and urbane of

men were shut up with one of these tremendous fellows during a storm of

rain, he would pray for deliverance before a couple of hours went by;

for the competitive athlete's intelligence seems to settle in his

calves, and he refers to his legs for all topics which he kindly

conceives to possess human interest. Of course the swift walker may

become a useful citizen should we ever have war; he will display the

same qualities that were shown by the sturdy Bavarians and

Brandenburgers who bore those terrible marches in 1870 and swept

MacMahon into a deadly trap by sheer endurance and speed of foot; but he

is not the ideal companion.

Persons who are wise proceed on a different plan; they wish to make the

most of every moment, and, while they value exercise, they like to make

the quickened currents of their blood feed a receptive and perhaps

somewhat epicurean brain. To the judicious man our lovely country

affords a veritable harvest of delights--and the delights can be gained

with very little trouble. I let the swift muscular men hurry away to the

Tyrol or the Caucasus or the Rocky Mountains, or whithersoever else they

care to go, and I turn to our own windy seashore or quiet lanes or

flushed purple moorlands. I do not much care for the babble of talk at

my elbow; but one good companion who has cultivated the art of keeping

silent is a boon. Suppose that you follow me on a roundabout journey.

Say we run northward in the train and resolve to work to the south on

foot; we start by the sea, and foot it on some fine gaudy morning over

the springy links where the grass grows gaily and the steel-coloured

bent-grass gleams like the bayonets of some vast host. The fresh wind

sings from the sea and flies through the lungs and into the pores with

an exhilarating effect like that of wine; the waves dance shoreward,

glittering as if diamonds were being pelted down from the blue arch

above; the sea-swallows sweep over the bubbling crests like flights of

silver arrows. It is very joyous. You have set off early, of course, and

the rabbits have not yet turned into their holes for their day-long

snooze. Watch quietly, and you may perhaps see how they make their fairy

rings on the grass. One frolicsome brown rogue whisks up his white tail,

and begins careering round and round; another is fired by emulation and

joins; another and another follow, and soon there is a flying ring of

merry little creatures who seem quite demented with the very pleasure of

living. One bounds into the air with a comic curvet, and comes down with

a thud; the others copy him, and there is a wild maze of coiling bodies

and gleaming white tails. But let the treacherous wind carry the scent

of you down on the little rascals and you will see a change. An old

fellow sits up like a kangaroo for an instant, looking extremely wise

and vigilant; he drops and kicks the ground with a sharp thud that can

be heard a long way off; the terror of man asserts itself in the midst

of that pure, peaceful beauty, and the whole flock dart off in agitated

fashion till they reach their holes; then they seem to look round with a

sarcastic air, for they know that you could not even raise a gun to your

shoulder in time to catch one of them before he made his lightning dive

into the darksome depths of the sand-hill. How strange it is that

meditative men like to watch the ways of wild things! White of Selborne

did not care much for killing anything in particular; he enjoyed himself

in a beautiful way for years, merely because he had learned to love the

pretty creatures of fen and meadow and woodland. Mr. Russell Lowell can

spend a happy day in watching through his glass the habits of the birds

that haunt his great garden; he does not want a gun; he only cares to

observe the instincts which God has implanted in the harmless children

of the air. On our walking tour we have hundreds of chances to see the

mystic mode of life pursued by the creatures that swarm even in our

crowded England; and if we use our eyes we may see a score of genuine

miracles every day.

On the pleasant "links" there is always something new to draw the eye.

Out on the flashing sea a ship rolls bravely away to north or south; her

sails are snowy in certain lights, and then in an instant she stands up

in raiment of sooty black. You may make up a story about her if you are

fanciful. Perhaps she is trailing her way into the deep quiet harbour

which you have just left, and the women are waiting until the rough

bearded fellows come lumbering up the quay. Perhaps she was careering

over the rushing mountain waves to the southward of the desolate Horn

only a few weeks ago, and the men were counting the days wearily, while

the lasses and wives at home sighed as the wind scourged the sea in the

dreary night and set all the rocks thundering with the charges of mad

surges. A little indulgence of the fancy does you no harm even though

you may be all wrong; very likely the skipper of the glad-looking vessel

is tipsy, maybe he has just been rope's-ending his cabin-boy or engaging

in some equally unpoetic pursuit; still no one is harmed by idealizing a

little, and so, by your leave, we will not alter our crude romance of

the sailor-men. Meantime, as you go on framing poetic fancies, there is

a school of other poets up above you, and they are composing their

fantasies at a pretty rate. The modest brown lark sits quietly amid the

sheltering grass, and will hardly stir, no matter how near her you may

go; but her mate, the glorious singer, is far away up toward the sun,

and he shouts in his joyous ecstasy until the heaven is full of his

exquisite joyance. Imagine how he puts his heart into his carol! He is

at least a mile above you, and you can hear him over a radius of half a

mile, measured from the place where he will drop. The little poets chant

one against the other, and yet there is no discord, for the magic of

distance seems to harmonize song with song, and the tumult soothes

instead of exciting you. Who is the poet who talks of "drawing a thread

of honey through your heart"? It is a quaint, conceited phrase, and yet

somehow it gives with absurd felicity some idea of the lark's song. They

massacre these innocents of the holy choir by thousands, and put them in

puddings for Cockneys to eat. The mere memory of one of those beatified

mornings makes you want to take the blood of the first poulterer whom

you find exposing a piteous string of the exquisite darlings. But we

must not think of blood, or taxes, or German bands, or political

speeches, or any other abomination, for our walk takes us through

flowery regions of peace.

Your muscles tighten rarely as you stump on over the elastic herbage;

two miles an hour is quite enough for your modest desires, especially as

you know you can quicken to four or five whenever you choose. As the day

wears on, the glorious open-air confusion takes possession of your

senses, your pulses beat with spirit, and you pass amid floating visions

of keen colour, soft greenery, comforting shades. The corn rustles on

the margin where the sandy soil ceases; the sleepy farmhouses seem to

'give you a lazy greeting, and the figures of the labourers are like

natural features of the landscape. Everything appears friendly; it may

be that the feeling of kindness and security arises from your physical

well-being, but it is there all the same, and what can you do more than

enjoy? Perhaps in the midst of your confused happiness your mind begins

acting on its own account, and quite disregards its humble companion,

the body. Xavier de Maistre's mind always did so, and left what Xavier

called the poor _bête_ of a carcass to take care of itself; and all of

us have to experience this double existence at times. Then you find the

advantages of knowing a great deal of poetry. I would not give a rush

for a man who merely pores over his poets in order to make notes or

comments on them; you ought to have them as beloved companions to be

near you night and day, to take up the parable when your own independent

thought is hazy with delight or even with sorrow. As you tramp along the

whistling stretches amid the blaze of the ragworts and the tender

passing glances of the wild veronica, you can take in all their

loveliness with the eye, while the brain goes on adding to your pleasure

by recalling the music of the poets. Perhaps you fall into step with the

quiver and beat of our British Homer's rushing rhymes, and Marmion

thunders over the brown hills of the Border, or Clara lingers where

mingles war's rattle with groans of the dying. Perhaps the wilful brain

persists in crooning over the "Belle Dame Sans Merci;" your mood

flutters and changes with every minute, and you derive equal

satisfaction from the organ-roll of Milton or the silvery flageolet

tones of Thomas Moore. If culture consists in learning the grammar an

etymologies of a poet's song, then no cultured man will ever get any

pleasure from poetry while he is on a walking tour; but, if you absorb

your poets into your being, you have spells of rare and unexpected

delight.

The halt is always pleasant. On our sand-hills the brackens grow to an

immense height, and, if you lie down among them, you are surrounded by a

pale green gleam, as if you had dived beneath some lucent sun-smitten

water. The ground-lark sways on a frond above you; the stonechat lights

for an instant, utters his cracking cry, and is off with a whisk; you

have fair, quiet, and sweet rest, and you start up ready to jog along

again. You come to a slow clear stream that winds seaward, lilting to

itself in low whispered cadences. Over some broad shallow pool paven

with brown stones the little trout fly hither and thither, making a weft

and woof of dark streaks as they travel; the minnows poise themselves,

and shiver and dart convulsively; the leisurely eel undulates along, and

perhaps gives you a glint of his wicked eye; you begin to understand the

angler's fascination, for the most restive of men might be lulled by the

light moan of that wimpling current. Cruel? Alas, yes!

That quaint old cruel coxcomb in his gullet

Should have a hook, with a small trout to pull it.

That was the little punishment which Byron devised for Izaak Walton. But

of course, if you once begin to be supersensitive about cruelty, you

find your way blocked at every cross-road of life, and existence ceases

to be worth having.

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