So far for the heroic vein. The Clothes Philosopher whose huge burst of

literary horse-laughter was levelled at the dandy does not always

confine himself to indirect scoffing; here is a plain statement--"First,

touching dandies, let us consider with some scientific strictness what a

dandy specially is. A dandy is a clothes-wearing man, a man whose trade

office, and existence consist in the wearing of clothes. Every faculty

of his soul, spirit, purse, and person is heroically consecrated to this

one object--the wearing of clothes wisely and well; so that, as others

dress to live, he lives to dress. The all-importance of clothes has

sprung upon the intellect of the dandy without effort, like an instinct

of genius; he is inspired with cloth--a poet of cloth. Like a generous

creative enthusiast, he fearlessly makes his idea an action--shows

himself in peculiar guise to mankind, walks forth a witness and living

martyr to the eternal worth of clothes. We called him a poet; is not his

body the (stuffed) parchment-skin whereon he writes, with cunning

Huddersfield dyes, a sonnet to his mistress's eyebrow?"

This is very witty and very trenchant in allusion, but I am obliged to

say seriously that Carlyle by no means reached the root of the matter.

The mere tailor's dummy is deplorable, despicable, detestable, but a

real man is none the worse if he gives way to the imperious human desire

for adornment, and some of the men who have made permanent marks on the

world's face have been of the tribe whom our Scotchman satirised. I have

known sensible young men turned into perfectly objectionable slovens by

reading Carlyle; they thought they rendered a tribute to their master's

genius by making themselves look disreputable, and they found allies to

applaud them. One youth of a poetic turn saw that the sage let his hair

fall over his forehead in a tangled mass. Now this young man had very

nice wavy hair, which naturally fell back in a sweep, but he devoted

himself with an industry worthy of a much better cause to the task of

making his hair fall in unkempt style over his brow. When he succeeded,

he looked partly like a Shetland pony, partly like a street-arab; but

his own impression was that his wild and ferocious appearance acted as a

living rebuke to young men of weaker natures. If I had to express a

blunt opinion, I should say he was a dreadful simpleton. Every man likes

to be attractive in some way in the springtime and hey-day of life; when

the blood flushes the veins gaily and the brain is sensitive to joy,

then a man glories in looking well. Why blame him? The young officer

likes to show himself with his troop in gay trappings; the athlete likes

to wear garments that set off his frame to advantage; and it is good

that this desire for distinction exists, else we should have but a grey

and sorry world to live in. When the pulses beat quietly and life moves

on the downward slope, a man relies on more sober attractions, and he

ceases to care for that physical adornment which every young and healthy

living creature on earth appreciates. So long as our young men are

genuinely manly, good, strong, and courageous, I am not inclined to find

fault with them, even if they happen to trip and fall into slight

extravagances in the matter of costume. The creature who lives to dress

I abhor, the sane and sound man who fulfils his life-duties gallantly

and who is not above pleasing himself and others by means of reasonable

adornments I like and even respect warmly. The philosophers may growl as

they chose, but I contend that the sight of a superb young Englishman

with his clean clear face, his springy limbs, his faultless habiliments

is about as pleasant as anything can be to a discerning man. Moreover,

it is by no means true that the dandy is necessarily incompetent when he

comes to engage in the severe work of life. Our hero, our Nelson, kept

his nautical dandyism until he was middle-aged. Who ever accused him of

incompetence? Think of his going at Trafalgar into that pouring Inferno

of lead and iron with all his decorations blazing on him! "In honour I

won them and in honour I will wear them," said this unconscionable

dandy; and he did wear them until he had broken our terrible enemy's

power, saved London from sack, and worse, and yielded up his gallant

soul to his Maker. Rather an impressive kind of dandy was that wizened

little animal. "There'll be wigs on the green, boys--the dandies are

coming!" So Marlborough's soldiers used to cry when the regiment of

exquisites charged. At home the fierce Englishmen strutted around in

their merry haunts and showed off their brave finery as though their one

task in life were to wear gaudy garments gracefully; but, when the

trumpet rang for the charge, the silken dandies showed that they had the

stuff of men in them. The philosopher is a trifle too apt to say,

"Anybody who does not choose to do as I like is, on the face of it, an

inferior member of the human race." I utterly refuse to have any such

doctrine thrust down my throat. No sage would venture to declare that

the handsome, gorgeous John Churchill was a fool or a failure. He beat

England's enemies, he made no blunder in his life, and he survived the

most vile calumnies that ever assailed a struggling man; yet, if he was

not a dandy, then I never saw or heard of one. All our fine fellows who

stray with the British flag over the whole earth belong more or less

distinctly to the dandy division. The velvet glove conceals the iron

hand; the pleasing modulated voice can rise at short notice to tones of

command; the apparent languor will on occasion start with electric

suddenness into martial vigour. The lounging dandies who were in India

when the red storm of the Mutiny burst from a clear sky suddenly became

heroes who toiled, fought, lavished their strength and their blood,

performed glorious prodigies of unselfish action, and snatched an empire

from the fires of ruin.

Even if a young fellow cannot afford fine clothes, he can be neat, and I

always welcome the slightest sign of fastidiousness, because it

indicates self-respect. The awful beings who wear felt hats swung on one

side, glaring ties, obtrusive checks, and carry vulgar little sticks,

are so abhorrent that I should journey a dozen miles to escape meeting

one of them. The cheap, nasty, gaudy garments are an index to a vast

vulgarity of mind and soul; the cheap "swell" is a sham, and, as a sham,

he is immoral and repulsive. But the modest youth need not copy the wild

unrestraint of the gentleman known as "'Arry"; he can contrive to make

himself attractive without sullying his appearance by a trace of cheap

and nasty adornment, and every attempt which he makes to look seemly and

pleasing tends subtly to raise his own character. Once or twice I have

said that you cannot really love any one wholly unless you can sometimes

laugh at him. Now I cannot laugh at the invertebrate haunter of flashy

bars and theatre-stalls, because he has not the lovable element in him

which invites kindly laughter; but I do smile--not unadmiringly--at our

dandy, and forgive him his little eccentricities because I know that

what the Americans term the "hard pan" of his nature is sound. It is all

very well for unhandsome philosophers in duffel to snarl at our

butterfly youth. The dry dull person who devours blue-books and figures

may mock at their fribbles; but persons who are tolerant take large and

gentle views, and they indulge the dandy, and let him strut for his day

unmolested, until the pressing hints given by the years cause him to

modify his splendours and sink into unassuming sobriety of demeanour and

raiment.

_June, 1888._

_GENIUS AND RESPECTABILITY_.

A very lengthy biography of Percy Bysshe Shelley appeared recently, and

the biographer thought it his duty to give the most minute and peculiar

details concerning the poet's private life. In consequence, the book is

a deplorable one in many respects, and no plain-minded person can read

it without feeling sorry that our sweet singer should be presented to us

in the guise of a weak-minded hypocrite. One critic wrote a great many

pages in which he bemoans the dreary and sordid family-life of the man

who wrote the "Ode to the West Wind." I can hardly help sympathizing

with the critic, for indeed Shelley's proceedings rather test the

patience of ordinary mortals, who do not think that poetic--or rather

artistic--ability licenses its possessor to behave like a scoundrel.

Shelley wrote the most lovely verse in praise of purity; but he tempted

a poor child to marry him, deserted her, insulted her, and finally left

her to drown herself when brutal neglect and injury had driven her

crazy. Poor Harriet Westbrook! She did not behave very discreetly after

her precious husband left her; but she was young, and thrown on a hard

world without any strength but her own to protect her. While she was

drifting into misery the airy poet was talking sentiment and ventilating

his theories of the universe to Mary Godwin. Harriet was too "shallow"

for the rhymester, and the penalty she paid for her shallowness was to

be deceived, enticed into a rash marriage, brutally insulted, and left

to fare as well as she might in a world that is bitterly cruel to

helpless girls. The maker of rhymes goes off gaily to the Continent to

enjoy himself heartily and write bewitching poems; Harriet stays at home

and lives as best she can on her pittance until the time comes for her

despairing plunge into the Serpentine. It is true that the poet invited

the poor creature to come and stay with him; but what a piece of

unparalleled insolence toward a wronged lady! The admirers of the rhymer

say, "Ah, but Harriet's society was not congenial to the poet."

Congenial! How many brave men make their bargain in youth and stand to

it gallantly unto the end? A simple soul of this sort thinks to himself,

"Well, I find that my wife and I are not in sympathy; but perhaps I may

be in fault. At any rate, she has trusted her life to me, and I must try

to make her days as happy as possible." It seems that supreme poets are

to be exempt from all laws of manliness and honour, and a simple woman

who cannot babble to them about their ideals and so forth is to be

pitched aside like a soiled glove! Honest men who cannot jingle words

are content with faith and honour and rectitude, but the poet is to be

applauded if he behaves like a base fellow on finding that some unhappy

loving creature cannot talk in his particular fashion. We may all be

very low Philistines if we are not prepared to accept rhymers for

chartered villains; but some of us still have a glimmering of belief in

the old standards of nobility and constancy. Can any one fancy Walter

Scott cheating a miserable little girl of sixteen into marriage, and

then leaving her, only to many a female philosopher? How that noble soul

would have spurned the maundering sentimentalist who talked of truth and

beauty, and music and moonlight and feeling, and behaved as a mean and

bad man! Scott is more to my fancy than is Shelley.

Again, this poet, this exquisite weaver of verbal harmonies, is

represented to us by his worshippers as having a passion for truth;

whereas it happens that he was one of the most remarkable fibbers that

ever lived. He would come home with amazing tales about assassins who

had waylaid him, and try to give himself importance by such blustering

inventions. "Imagination!" says the enthusiast; but among commonplace

persons another word is used. "Your lordship knows what kleptomania is?"

said a counsel who was defending a thief. Justice Byles replied, "Oh,

yes! I come here to cure it." Some critical justice might say the same

of Shelley's imagination. We are also told that Shelley's excessive

nobility of nature prevented him from agreeing with his commonplace

father; and truly the poet was a bad and an ungrateful son. But, if a

pretty verse-maker is privileged to be an undutiful son, what becomes of

all our old notions? I think once more of the great Sir Walter, and I

remember his unquestioning obedience to his parents. Then we may also

remember Gibbon, who was quite as able and useful a man as Shelley. The

historian loved a young French lady, but his father refused consent to

their marriage, and Gibbon quietly obeyed and accepted his hard fate.

The passion sanctified his whole life, and, as he says, made him more

dear to himself; he settled his colossal work, and remained unmarried

for life. He may have been foolish: but I prefer his behaviour to that

of a man who treats his father with contumely and ingratitude even while

he is living upon him. We hear much of Shelley's unselfishness, but it

does not appear that he ever denied himself the indulgence of a whim.

The "Ode to the West Wind," the "Ode Written in Dejection near Naples,"

and "The Skylark" are unsurpassed and unsurpassable; but I can hardly

pardon a man for cruelty and turpitude merely because he produces a few

masterpieces of art.

A confident and serene critic attacks Mr. Arnold very severely because

the latter writer thinks that poets should be amenable to fair and

honest social laws. If I understand the critic aright, we must all be so

thankful for beautiful literary works that we must be ready to let the

producers of such works play any pranks they please under high heaven.

They are the children of genius, and we are to spoil them; "Childe

Harold" and "Manfred" are such wondrous productions that we need never

think of the author's orgies at Venice and the Abbey; "Epipsychidion" is

lovely, so we should not think of poor Harriet Westbrook casting herself

into the Serpentine. This is marvellous doctrine, and one hardly knows

whither it might lead us if we carried it into thorough practice.

Suppose that, in addition to indulging the spoiled children of genius,

we were to approve all the proceedings of the clever children in any

household. I fancy that the dwellers therein would have an unpleasant

time. Noble charity towards human weakness is one thing; but blind

adulation of clever and immoral men is another. We have great need to

pity the poor souls who are the prey of their passions, but we need not

worship them. A large and lofty charity will forgive the shortcomings of

Robert Burns; we may even love that wild and misguided but essentially

noble man. That is well; yet we must not put Burns forward and offer our

adulation in such a way as to set him up for a model to young men. A man

may read--

The pale moon is setting beyont the white wave,

And Time is setting with me, oh!

The pathos will wring his heart; but he should not ask any youth to

imitate the conduct of the great poet. Carlyle said very profoundly that

new morality must be made before we can judge Mirabeau; but Carlyle

never put his hero's excesses in the foreground of his history, nor did

he try to apologize for them; he only said, "Here is a man whose stormy

passions overcame him and drove him down the steep to ruin! Think of him

at his best, pardon him, and imitate, in your weak human fashion, the

infinite Divine Mercy." That is good; and it is certainly very different

from the behaviour of writers who ask us to regard their heroes'

evil-doing as not only pardonable, but as being almost admirable.

This Shelley controversy raises several weighty issues. We forgive Burns

because he again and again offers us examples of splendid self-sacrifice

in the course of his broken life, and we are able to do so because the

balance is greatly on the good side; but we do not refrain from saying,

"In some respects Burns was a scamp." The fact is that the claims of

weak-headed adorers who worship men of genius would lead to endless

mischief if they were allowed. Men who were skilled in poetry and music

and art have often behaved like scoundrels; but their scoundrelism

should be reprobated, and not excused. And my reason for this contention

is very simple--once allow that a man of genius may override all

salutary conventions, and the same conventions will be overridden by

vain and foolish mediocrities. Take, for example, the conventions which

guide us in the matter of dress. Most people grant that in many respects

our modern dress is ugly in shape, ugly in material, and calculated to

promote ill-health. The hard hat which makes the brow ache must affect

the wearer's health, and therefore, when we see the greatest living poet

going about in a comfortable soft felt, we call him a sensible man.

Carlyle used to hobble about with soft shoes and soft slouch-hat, and he

was right But it is possible to be as comfortable as Lord Tennyson or

Carlyle without flying very outrageously in the face of modern

conventions; and many everyday folk contrive to keep their bodies at

ease without trying any fool's device. Charles Kingsley used to roam

about in his guernsey--most comfortable of all dresses--when he was in

the country; but when he visited the town he managed to dress easily and

elegantly in the style of an average gentleman.

But some foolish creatures say in their hearts, "Men of genius wear

strange clothing--Tennyson wears a vast Inverness cape, Carlyle wore a

duffel jacket, Bismarck wears a flat white cap, Mortimer Collins wore a

big Panama; artists in general like velvet and neckties of various gaudy

hues. Let us adopt something startling in the way of costume, and we

may be taken for men of genius." Thus it happened that very lately

London was invested by a set of simpletons of small ability in art and

letters; they let their hair grow down their backs; they drove about in

the guise of Venetian senators of the fifteenth century; they appeared

in slashed doublets and slouched hats; and one of them astonished the

public--and the cabmen--by marching down a fashionable thoroughfare on a

broiling day with a fur ulster on his back and a huge flower in his

hand. Observe my point--these social nuisances obtained for themselves a

certain contemptible notoriety by caricaturing the ways of able men. I

can forgive young Disraeli's gaudy waistcoats and pink-lined coats, but

I have no patience with his silly imitators. This is why I object to the

praise which is bestowed on men of genius for qualities which do not

deserve praise. The reckless literary admirer of Shelley or Byron goes

into ecstasies and cries, "Perish the slave who would think of these

great men's vices!"--whereupon raw and conceited youngsters say, "Vice

and eccentricity are signs of genius. We will be vicious and eccentric;"

and then they go and convert themselves into public nuisances.

That vice and folly are not always associated with genius scarcely needs

demonstrating. I allow that many great men have been sensual fools, but

we can by no means allow that folly and sensuality are inseparable from

greatness. My point is to prove that littleness must be conquered before

a man can be great or good. Macaulay lived a life of perfect and

exemplary purity; he was good in all the relations of life; those

nearest to him loved him most dearly, and his days were passed in

thinking of the happiness of others. Perhaps he was vain--certainly he

had something to be vain of--but, though he had such masterful talent,

he never thought himself licensed, and he wore the white flower of a

blameless life until his happy spirit passed easily away. Wordsworth was

a poet who will be placed on a level with Byron when an estimate of our

century's great men comes to be made. But Wordsworth lived his sweet and

pious life without in any way offending against the moral law. We must

have done with all talk about the privileges of irregular genius; a

clever man must be made to see that, while he may be as independent as

he likes, he cannot be left free to offend either the sense or the

sensibility of his neighbours. The genius must learn to conduct himself

in accordance with rational and seemly custom, or he must be brought to

his senses. When a great man's ways are merely innocently different from

those of ordinary people, by all means let him alone. For instance,

Leonardo da Vinci used often to buy caged wild-birds from their captors

and let them go free. What a lovely and lovable action! He hurt no one;

he restored the joy of life to innocent creatures, and no one could find

fault with his sweet fancy. In the same way, when Samuel Johnson chose

to stalk ponderously along the streets, stepping on the edges of the

paving-stones, or even when he happened to roar a little loudly in

conversation, who could censure him seriously? His heart was as a little

child's: his deeds were saintly; and we perhaps love him all the more

for his droll little ways. But, when Shelley outrages decency and the

healthy sense of manliness by his peculiar escapades, it is not easy to

pardon him; the image of that drowned child rises before us, and we are

apt to forget the pretty verses. Calm folk remember that many peculiarly

wicked and selfish gentry have been able to make nice rhymes and paint

charming pictures. The old poet Francois Villon, who has made men weep

and sympathize for so many years, was a burglar, a murderer, and

something baser, if possible, than either murderer or burglar. A more

despicable being probably never existed; and yet he warbles with angelic

sweetness, and his piercing sadness thrills us after the lapse of four

centuries. Young men of unrestrained appetites and negative morality are

often able to talk most charmingly, but the meanest and most unworthy

persons whom I have met have been the wild and lofty-minded poets who

perpetually express contempt of Philistines and cast the shaft of their

scorn at what they call "dross." So far as money goes, I fancy that the

oratorical, and grandiose poet is often the most greedy of individuals;

and, when, in his infinite conceit, he sets himself up above common

decency and morality, I find it difficult to confine myself to moderate

language. A man of genius may very well be chaste, modest, unselfish,

and retiring. Byron was at his worst when he was producing the works

which made him immortal; I prefer to think of him as he was when he cast

his baser self away, and nobly took up the cause of Greece. When once

his matchless common sense asserted itself, and he ceased to contemplate

his own woes and his own wrongs, he became a far greater man than he had

ever been before. I should be delighted to know that the cant about the

lowering restrictions imposed by stupidity on genius had been silenced

for ever. A man of transcendent ability must never forget that he is a

member of a community, and that he has no more right wantonly to offend

the feelings or prejudices of that community than he has to go about

buffeting individual members with a club. As soon as he offends the

common feelings of his fellows he must take the consequences; and

hard-headed persons should turn a deaf ear when any eloquent and

sentimental person chooses to whine about his hero's wrongs.

_March, 1888._

_SLANG_.

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