VIII.

_VOYAGE TO ALGERIA TO OBSERVE THE ECLIPSE._

The opening of the Eclipse Expedition was not propitious. Portsmouth,

on the 5th of December 1870, was swathed by a fog, which was

intensified by smoke, and traversed by a drizzle of fine rain. At

six P.M. I was on board the ‘Urgent.’ On Tuesday morning the weather

was too thick to permit of the ship’s being swung and her compasses

calibrated. The Admiral of the port, a man of very noble presence, came

on board. Under his stimulus the energy which the weather had damped

appeared to become more active, and soon after his departure we steamed

down to Spithead. Here the fog had so far lightened as to enable the

officers to swing the ship.

At three P.M. on Tuesday the 6th of December we got away, gliding

successively past Whitecliff Bay, Bembridge, Sandown, Shanklin,

Ventnor, and St. Catherine’s Lighthouse. On Wednesday morning we

sighted the Isle of Ushant, on the French side of the Channel. The

northern end of the island has been fretted by the waves into detached

tower-like masses of rock of very remarkable appearance. In the

Channel the sea was green, and opposite Ushant it was a brighter green.

On Wednesday evening we committed ourselves to the Bay of Biscay.

The roll of the Atlantic was full, but not violent. There had been

scarcely a gleam of sunshine throughout the day, but the cloud-forms

were fine, and their apparent solidity impressive. On Thursday morning

I rose refreshed, and found the green of the sea displaced by a deep

indigo blue. The whole of Thursday we steamed across the bay. We had

little blue sky, but the clouds were again grand and varied--cirrus,

stratus, cumulus, and nimbus, we had them all. Dusky hairlike trails

were sometimes dropped from the distant clouds to the sea. These were

falling showers, and they sometimes occupied the whole horizon, while

we steamed across the rainless circle which was thus surrounded.

Sometimes we plunged into the rain, and once or twice, by slightly

changing course, avoided a heavy shower. From time to time perfect

rainbows spanned the heavens from side to side. At times a bow would

appear in fragments, showing the keystone of the arch midway in air,

and its two buttresses on the horizon. In all cases the light of the

bow could be quenched by a Nicol’s prism, with its long diagonal

tangent to the arc. Sometimes gleaming patches of the firmament were

seen amid the clouds. When viewed in the proper direction, the gleam

could be quenched by a Nicol prism, a dark aperture being thus opened

into stellar space.

At sunset on Thursday the denser clouds were fiercely fringed, while

through the lighter ones seemed to issue the glow of a conflagration.

On Friday morning we sighted Cape Finisterre, the extreme end of the

arc which sweeps from Ushant round the Bay of Biscay. Calm spaces of

blue, in which floated quietly scraps of cumuli, were behind us, but

in front of us was a horizon of portentous darkness. It continued thus

threatening throughout the day. Towards evening the wind strengthened

to a gale, and at dinner it was difficult to preserve the plates

and dishes from destruction. Our thinned company hinted that the

rolling had other consequences. It was very wild when we went to bed.

I slumbered and slept, but after some time was rendered actively

conscious that my body had become a kind of projectile, which had the

ship’s side for a target. I gripped the edge of my berth to save myself

from being thrown out. Outside, I could hear somebody say that he had

been thrown from his berth, and sent spinning to the other side of the

saloon. The screw laboured violently amid the lurching; it incessantly

quitted the water, and, twirling in the air, rattled against its

bearings, and caused the ship to shudder from stem to stern. At times

the waves struck us, not with the soft impact which might be expected

from a liquid, but with the sudden solid shock of battering-rams. ‘No

man knows the force of water,’ said one of the officers, ‘until he has

experienced a storm at sea.’ These blows followed each other at quicker

intervals, the screw rattling after each of them, until, finally,

the delivery of a heavier stroke than ordinary seemed to reduce the

saloon to chaos. Furniture crashed, glasses rang, and alarmed enquiries

immediately followed. Amid the noises I heard one note of forced

laughter; it sounded very ghastly. Men tramped through the saloon, and

busy voices were heard aft, as if something there had gone wrong.

I rose, and not without difficulty got into my clothes. In the

after-cabin, under the superintendence of the able and energetic

navigating lieutenant, Mr. Brown, a group of blue-jackets were working

at the tiller-ropes. These had become loose, and the helm refused to

answer the wheel. High moral lessons might be gained on shipboard by

observing what steadfast adherence to an object can accomplish, and

what large effects are heaped up by the addition of infinitesimals. The

tiller-rope, as the blue-jackets strained in concert, seemed hardly to

move; still it did move a little, until finally, by timing the pull to

the lurching of the ship, the mastery of the rudder was obtained. I had

previously gone on deck. Round the saloon-door were a few members of

the eclipse party, who seemed in no mood for scientific observation.

Nor did I; but I wished to see the storm. I climbed the steps to the

poop, exchanged a word with Captain Toynbee, the only member of the

party to be seen on the poop, and by his direction made towards a

cleat not far from the wheel.[44] Round it I coiled my arms. With the

exception of the men at the wheel, who stood as silent as corpses, I

was alone.

[44] The cleat is a T-shaped mass of metal employed for the fastening

of ropes.

I had seen grandeur elsewhere, but this was a new form of grandeur to

me. The ‘Urgent’ is long and narrow, and during our expedition she

lacked the steadying influence of sufficient ballast. She was for

a time practically rudderless, and lay in the trough of the sea. I

could see the long ridges, with some hundreds of feet between their

crests, rolling upon the ship perfectly parallel to her sides. As

they approached they so grew upon the eye as to render the expression

‘mountains high’ intelligible. At all events, there was no mistaking

their mechanical might, as they took the ship upon their shoulders, and

swung her like a pendulum. The poop sloped sometimes at an angle which

I estimated at over forty-five degrees; wanting my previous Alpine

practice, I should have felt less confidence in my grip of the cleat.

Here and there the long rollers were tossed by interference into heaps

of greater height. The wind caught their crests, and scattered them

over the sea, the whole surface of which was seething white. The aspect

of the clouds was a fit accompaniment to the fury of the ocean. The

moon was almost full--at times concealed, at times revealed, as the

scud flew wildly over it. These things appealed to the eye, while the

ear was filled by the whistle and boom of the storm and the groaning of

the screw.

Nor was the outward agitation the only object of interest to me. I

was at once subject and object to myself, and watched with intense

interest the workings of my own mind. The ‘Urgent’ is an elderly ship.

She had been built, I was told, by a contracting firm for some foreign

Government, and had been diverted from her first purpose when converted

into a troop-ship. She had been for some time out of work, and I had

heard that one of her boilers, at least, needed repair. Our scanty but

excellent crew, moreover, did not belong to the ‘Urgent,’ but had been

gathered from other ships. Our three lieutenants were also volunteers.

All this passed swiftly through my mind as the ship shook under the

blows of the waves, and I thought that probably no one on board could

say how much of this thumping and straining the ‘Urgent’ would be able

to bear. This uncertainty caused me to look steadily at the worst, and

I tried to strengthen myself in the face of it.

But at length the helm laid hold of the water, and the ship was got

gradually round to face the waves. The rolling diminished, a certain

amount of pitching taking its place. Our speed had fallen from eleven

knots to two. I went again to bed. After a space of calm, when we

seemed crossing the vortex of a storm, heavy tossing recommenced. I

was afraid to allow myself to fall asleep, as my berth was high, and

to be pitched out of it might be attended with bruises, if not with

fractures. From Friday at noon to Saturday at noon we accomplished

sixty-six miles, or an average of less than three miles an hour. I

overheard the sailors talking about this storm. The ‘Urgent,’ according

to those that knew her, had never previously experienced anything like

it.[45]

[45] There is, it will be seen, a fair agreement between these

impressions and those so vigorously described by a scientific

correspondent of the ‘Times.’

All through Saturday the wind, though somewhat sobered, blew dead

against us. The atmospheric effects were exceedingly fine. The

cumuli resembled mountains in shape, and their peaked summits shone

as white as Alpine snows. At one place this resemblance was greatly

strengthened by a vast area of cloud, uniformly illuminated, and lying

like a _névé_ below the peaks. From it fell a kind of cloud-river,

strikingly like a glacier. The horizon at sunset was remarkable--spaces

of brilliant green between clouds of fiery red. Rainbows had been

frequent throughout the day, and at night a perfectly continuous lunar

bow spanned the heavens from side to side. Its colours were feeble;

but, contrasted with the black ground against which it rested, its

luminousness was extraordinary.

Sunday morning found us opposite to Lisbon, and at midnight we rounded

Cape St. Vincent, where the lurching seemed disposed to recommence.

Through the kindness of Lieutenant Walton, a cot had been slung for me.

It hung between a tiller-wheel and a flue, and at one A.M. I was roused

by the banging of the cot against its boundaries. But the wind was

now behind us, and we went along at a speed of eleven knots. We felt

certain of reaching Cadiz by three. But a new lighthouse came in sight,

which some affirmed to be Cadiz lighthouse, while the surrounding

houses were declared to be Cadiz itself. Out of deference to these

statements, the navigating lieutenant changed his course, and steered

for the place. A pilot came on board, and he informed us that we were

before the mouth of the Guadalquivir, and that the lighthouse was that

of Cipiòna. Cadiz was still some eighteen miles distant.

We steered towards the city, hoping to get into the harbour before

dark. But the pilot was snapped up by another vessel, and we did not

get in. We beat about during the night, and in the morning found

ourselves about fifteen miles from Cadiz. The sun rose behind the city,

and we steered straight into the light. The three-towered cathedral

stood in the midst, round which swarmed apparently a multitude of

chimney-stacks. A nearer approach showed the chimneys to be small

turrets. A pilot was taken on board; for there is a dangerous shoal

in the harbour. The appearance of the town as the sun shone upon its

white and lofty walls was singularly beautiful. We cast anchor; some

officials arrived and demanded a clean bill of health. We had none.

They would have nothing to do with us; so the yellow quarantine flag

was hoisted, and we waited for permission to land the Cadiz party.

After some hours of delay the English consul and vice-consul came

on board, and with them a Spanish officer, ablaze with gold lace

and decorations. Under slight pressure the requisite permission had

been granted. We landed our party, and in the afternoon weighed

anchor. Thanks to the kindness of our excellent paymaster, I was here

transferred to a roomier berth.

Cadiz soon sank beneath the sea, and we sighted in succession Cape

Trafalgar, Tarifa, and the revolving light of Ceuta. The water was

very calm, and the moon rose in a quiet heaven. She swung with her

convex surface downwards, the common boundary between light and

shadow being almost horizontal. A pillar of reflected light shimmered

up to us from the slightly rippled sea. I had already noticed the

phosphorescence of the water, but to-night it was stronger than usual,

especially among the foam at the bows. A bucket let down into the sea

brought up a number of the little sparkling organisms which cause

the phosphorescence. I caught some of them in my hand. And here an

appearance was observed which was new to most of us, and strikingly

beautiful to all. Standing at the bow and looking forwards, at a

distance of forty or fifty yards from the ship a number of luminous

streamers were seen rushing towards us. On nearing the vessel they

rapidly turned, like a comet round its perihelion, placed themselves

side by side, and, as parallel trails of light, kept up with the ship.

One of them placed itself right in front of the bow as a pioneer.

These comets of the sea were joined at intervals by others. Sometimes

as many as six at a time would rush at us, bend with extraordinary

rapidity round a sharp curve, and afterwards keep us company. Leaning

over the bow, and scanning the streamers closely, the frontal portion

of each revealed the outline of a porpoise. The rush of the creatures

through the water had started the phosphorescence, every spark of which

was converted by the motion of the retina into a line of light. Each

porpoise was thus wrapped in a luminous sheath. The phosphorescence did

not cease at the creature’s tail, but was carried many porpoise-lengths

behind it.

To our right we had the African hills, illuminated by the moon.

Gibraltar Rock at length became visible, but the town remained long

hidden by a belt of haze. Through this at length the brighter lamps

struggled. It was like the gradual resolution of a nebula into stars.

As the intervening depth became gradually less the mist vanished more

and more, and finally all the lamps shone through it. They formed a

bright foil to the sombre mass of rock above them. The sea was so calm

and the scene so lovely that Mr. Huggins and myself stayed on deck till

the ship was moored, near midnight. During our walking to and fro a

striking enlargement of the disc of Jupiter was observed whenever the

heated air of the funnels came between us and the planet. On passing

away from the heated air, the flat dim disc would immediately shrink

to a luminous point. The effect was one of retinal persistence. The

retinal image of the planet was set quivering in all azimuths by the

streams of heated air, describing in quick succession minute lines of

light, which summed themselves to a disc of sensible area.

At six o’clock next morning the gun at the signal station on the

summit of the rock boomed. At eight the band on board the ‘Trafalgar’

training-ship, which was in the harbour, struck up the national anthem;

and immediately afterwards a crowd of mite-like cadets swarmed up the

rigging. After the removal of the apparatus belonging to the Gibraltar

party we went on shore. Winter was in England when we left, but here

we had the warmth of summer. The vegetation was luxuriant--palm-trees,

cactuses, and aloes, all ablaze with scarlet flowers. A visit to

the Governor was proposed, as an act of necessary courtesy, and

I accompanied Admiral Ommaney and Mr. Huggins to the Convent, or

Government House. We sent in our cards, waited for a time, and were

then conducted by an orderly to his Excellency. He is a fine old man,

over six foot high, and of frank military bearing. He received us

and conversed with us in a very genial manner. He took us to see his

garden, his palms, his shaded promenades, and his orange-trees loaded

with fruit, in all of which he took manifest delight. Evidently ‘the

hero of Kars’ had fallen upon quarters after his own heart. He appeared

full of good nature, and engaged us on the spot to dine with him that

day.

We sought the town-major for a pass to visit the lines. While awaiting

his arrival I purchased a stock of white glass bottles, with a view

to experiments on the colour of the sea. Mr. Huggins and myself,

who wished to see the rock, were taken by Captain Salmond to the

library, where a model of Gibraltar is kept, and where we had a capital

preliminary lesson. At the library we met Colonel Maberly, a courteous

and kindly man, who gave us good advice regarding our excursion. He

sent an orderly with us to the entrance of the lines. The orderly

handed us over to an intelligent Irishman, who was directed to show

us everything that we desired to see, and to hide nothing from us.

We took the ‘upper lines,’ traversed the galleries hewn through the

limestone, looked through the embrasures, which opened like doors in

the precipice, over the hills of Spain, reached St. George’s Hall, and

went still higher, emerging on the summit of one of the noblest cliffs

I have ever seen.

Beyond were the Spanish lines, marked by a line of white sentry-boxes;

nearer were the English lines, less conspicuously marked out; and

between both was the neutral ground. Behind the Spanish lines was the

conical hill called the Queen of Spain’s Chair. The general aspect

of Spain from the rock is bold and rugged. Doubling back from the

galleries, we struck upwards towards the crest, reached the signal

station, where we indulged in shandy-gaff and bread and cheese. Thence

to O’Hara’s Tower, the highest point of the rock. It was built by a

former Governor, who, forgetful of the laws of terrestrial curvature,

thought he might look from the tower into the port of Cadiz. The tower

is riven, and may be climbed along the edges of the crack. We got to

the top of it; thence descended the curious Mediterranean Stair--a

zigzag, mostly of steps down a steeply falling slope, amid palmetto

brush, aloes, and prickly pear.

Passing over the Windmill Hill, we were joined at the ‘Governor’s

Cottage’ by a car, and drove afterwards to the lighthouse at Europa

Point. The tower was built, I believe, by Queen Adelaide, and it

contains a fine dioptric apparatus of the first order, constructed by

the Messrs. Chance of Birmingham. At the appointed hour we were at the

Convent. During dinner the same genial traits which appeared in the

morning were still more conspicuous. The freshness of the Governor’s

nature showed itself best when he spoke of his old antagonist in arms,

Mouravieff. Chivalry in war is consistent with its stern prosecution.

These two men were chivalrous, and after striking the last blow became

friends for ever. Our kind and courteous reception at Gibraltar is a

thing to be remembered with pleasure.

On the 15th of December we committed our selves to the Mediterranean.

The views of Gibraltar with which we are most acquainted represent it

as a huge ridge; but its aspect, end on, both from the Spanish lines

and from the other side, is truly noble. There is a sloping bank of

sand at the back of the rock, which I was disposed to regard simply as

the _débris_ of the limestone. I wished to let myself down upon it, but

had not the time. My friend Mr. Busk, however, assures me that it is

silica, and that the same sand constitutes the adjacent neutral ground.

There are theories afloat as to its having been blown from Sahara.

The Mediterranean throughout this first day, and indeed throughout

the entire voyage to Oran, was of less deep a blue than the Atlantic.

Possibly the quantity of organisms may have modified the colour. At

night the phosphorescence was delicious, breaking with the suddenness

of a snapped spring along the crests of the waves formed by the port

and starboard bows. Its strength was not uniform. Having flashed

brilliantly for a time, it would in part subside, and afterwards regain

its vigour. Several large phosphorescent masses of weird appearance

also floated past.

On the morning of the 16th we sighted the fort and lighthouse of Marsa

el Kibir, and beyond them the white walls of Oran lying in the bight

of a bay, sheltered by dominant hills. The sun was shining brightly;

during our whole voyage we had not had so fine a day. The wisdom

which had led us to choose Oran as our place of observation seemed

demonstrated. A rather excitable pilot came on board, and he guided us

in behind the Mole, which had suffered much damage last year from an

unexplained outburst of waves from the Mediterranean. Both port and bow

anchors were cast into deep water. With three huge hawsers the ship’s

stern was made fast to three gun-pillars fixed in the Mole; and here

for a time the ‘Urgent’ rested from her labours.

M. Janssen, who had rendered his name celebrated by his observations

of the eclipse in India in 1868, when he showed the solar flames to

be eruptions of incandescent hydrogen, was already encamped in the

open country about eight miles from Oran. On the 2nd of December he

had quitted Paris in a balloon, with a strong young sailor as his

assistant, had descended near the mouth of the Loire, seen M. Gambetta,

and received from him encouragement and aid. On the day of our arrival

his encampment was visited by Mr. Huggins, and the kind and courteous

Engineer of the Port drove me subsequently in his own phaeton to the

place. It bore the best repute as regards freedom from haze and fog,

and commanded an open outlook, but it was inconvenient for us on

account of its distance from the ship. The place next in repute was the

railway station, between two and three miles distant from the Mole. It

was inspected, but, being enclosed, was abandoned for an eminence in

an adjacent garden, the property of Mr. Hinshelwood, a Scotchman who

had settled some years previously as an esparto merchant in Oran,[46]

and who in the most liberal manner placed his ground at the disposition

of the party. Here the tents were pitched on the Saturday by Captain

Salmond and his intelligent corps of sappers, the instruments being

erected on the Monday under cover of the tents.

[46] Esparto is a kind of grass now much used in the manufacture of

paper.

Close to the railway station runs a new loopholed wall of defence,

through which the highway passes into the open country. Standing on the

highway, and looking southwards, about twenty yards to the right is a

small bastionet, intended to carry a gun or two. Its roof I thought

would form an admirable basis for my telescope, while the view of the

surrounding country was unimpeded in all directions. The authorities

kindly allowed me the use of this bastionet. Two men, one a blue-jacket

named Elliot, and the other a marine named Hill, were placed at my

disposal by Lieutenant Walton; and thus aided, on Monday morning I

mounted my telescope. The instrument was new to me, and I wished to

master all the details of its manipulation.

After some hours of discipline, and as the day was sobering towards

twilight, the telescope was dismounted and put under cover. Mr.

Huggins joined me, and we visited together the Arab quarter of Oran.

The flat-roofed houses appeared very clean and white. The street was

filled with loiterers, and the thresholds were occupied by picturesque

groups. Some of the men are very fine; we saw many straight, manly

fellows who must have been six foot four in height. They passed us

with perfect indifference, evincing no anger, suspicion, or curiosity,

hardly caring in fact to glance at us as we passed. In one instance

only during my stay at Oran was I spoken to by an Arab. He was a tall,

good-humoured fellow, who came smiling up to me, and muttered something

about ‘les Anglais.’ The mixed population of Oran is picturesque in

the highest degree: the Jews, rich and poor, varying in their costumes

as their wealth varies--the Arabs more picturesque still, and of all

shades of complexion--the negroes, the Spaniards, the French, all

grouped together, and each preserving their own individuality, formed a

picture intensely interesting me.

On Tuesday, the 20th, I was early at the bastionet, with the view of

schooling both myself and my men. The night had been very squally. The

sergeant of the sappers took charge of our key, and on Tuesday morning

Elliot went for it. He brought back the intelligence that the tents

had been blown down, and the instruments overturned. Among these was a

large and valuable equatorial from the Royal Observatory, Greenwich.

It seemed hardly possible that this instrument, with its wheels and

verniers and delicate adjustments, could have escaped uninjured from

such a fall. This, however, was the case; and during the day all the

overturned instruments were restored to their places, and found to be

in practical working order. This and the following day were devoted

to incessant schooling. I had come out as a general star-gazer, and

not with the intention of devoting myself to the observation of any

particular phenomenon. I wished to see the whole--the first contact,

the advance of the moon, and the successive swallowing up of the solar

spots, the breaking of the last line of crescent by the lunar mountains

into Bailey’s beads, the advance of the shadow through the air, the

appearance of the corona and prominences at the moment of totality, the

radiant streamers of the corona, the internal structure of the flames,

a glance through a polariscope, a sweep round the landscape with the

naked eye, the reappearance of the solar limb through Bailey’s beads,

and, finally, the retreat of the lunar shadow through the air.

For these observations I was provided with a telescope of admirable

definition, mounted, adjusted, packed, and most liberally placed at my

disposal by Mr. Warren De la Rue. The telescope grasped the whole of

the sun, and a considerable portion of the space surrounding it. But it

would not take in the probable extreme limits of the corona. For this

the ‘finder’ was suitable; but, instead of it, I had lashed on to the

large telescope a light but powerful instrument, constructed by Ross,

and lent to me by Mr. Huggins. I was also furnished with an excellent

binocular by Mr. Dallmeyer. In fact, no man could have been more

efficiently supported than I was. It required a strict parcelling out

of the two minutes and some seconds of totality to embrace in them the

entire series of observations. These, while the sun remained visible,

were to be made with an unsilvered diagonal eyepiece, which reflected

but a small fraction of the sun’s light, this fraction being still

further toned down by a dark glass. At the moment of totality the dark

glass was to be removed, and a silver reflector pushed in, so as to

get the maximum of light from the corona and prominences. The time of

totality was distributed as follows:

1. Observe approach of shadow through the air: totality.

2. Telescope 30 seconds.

3. Finder 30 seconds.

4. Double image prism 15 seconds.

5. Naked eye 10 seconds.

6. Finder or binocular 20 seconds.

7. Telescope 20 seconds.

8. Observe retreat of shadow.

It was proposed to begin and end with the telescope, so that any change

in the field of view occurring during the totality might be noticed.

Elliot stood beside me, watch in hand, and furnished with a lantern.

He called out at the end of each interval, and I moved from telescope

to finder, from finder to polariscope, from polariscope to naked eye,

from naked eye back to finder, from finder to telescope, abandoning the

instrument finally to observe the retreating shadow. All this we went

over twenty times, while looking at the actual sun, and keeping him in

the middle of the field. It was my object to render the repetition of

the lesson so mechanical as to leave no room for flurry, forgetfulness,

or excitement. Volition was not to be called upon, nor judgment

exercised, but a well-beaten path of routine was to be followed.

Had the opportunity occurred, I think the programme would have been

strictly carried out.

But the opportunity did not occur. For several days the weather had

been ill-natured. We had wind so strong as to render the hawsers at

the stern of the ‘Urgent’ as rigid as iron, and, therefore, to destroy

the navigating lieutenant’s sleep. We had clouds, a thunder-storm,

and some rain. Still the hope was held out that the atmosphere would

cleanse itself, and if it did we were promised an air of extraordinary

limpidity. Early on the 22nd we were all at our posts. Spaces of blue

in the early morning gave us some encouragement, but all depended on

the relation of these spaces to the surrounding clouds. Which of them

were to grow as the day advanced? The wind was high, and to secure the

steadiness of my instrument I was forced to retreat behind a projection

of the bastionet, place stones upon its stand, and, further, to avail

myself of the shelter of a sail. My practised men fastened the sail

at the top, and loaded it with boulders at the bottom. It was tried

severely, but it stood firm.

The clouds and blue spaces fought for a time with varying success.

The sun was hidden and revealed at intervals, hope oscillating in

synchronism with the changes of the sky. At the moment of first contact

a dense cloud intervened, but a minute or two afterwards the cloud had

passed, and the encroachment of the black body of the moon was evident

upon the solar disc. The moon marched onward, and I saw it at frequent

intervals; a large group of spots were approached and swallowed up.

Subsequently I caught sight of the lunar limb as it cut through the

middle of a large spot. The spot was not to be distinguished from the

moon, but rose like a mountain above it. The clouds, when thin, could

be seen as grey scud drifting across the black surface of the moon;

but they thickened more and more, and made the intervals of clearness

scantier. During these moments I watched with an interest bordering

upon fascination the march of the silver sickle of the sun across the

field of the telescope. It was so sharp and so beautiful. No trace

of the lunar limb could be observed beyond the sun’s boundary. Here,

indeed, it could only be relieved by the corona, which was utterly cut

off by the dark glass. The blackness of the moon beyond the sun was, in

fact, confounded with the blackness of space.

Beside me was Elliot with the watch and lantern, while Lieutenant

Archer, of the Royal Engineers, had the kindness to take charge of

my note-book. I mentioned, and he wrote rapidly down, such things as

seemed worthy of remembrance. Thus my hands and mind were entirely

free; but it was all to no purpose. A patch of sunlight fell and rested

upon the landscape some miles away. It was the only illuminated spot

within view. But to the north-west there was still a space of blue

which might reach us in time. Within seven minutes of totality another

small space towards the zenith became very dark. The atmosphere was,

as it were, on the brink of a precipice; it was charged with humidity,

which required but a slight chill to bring it down in clouds. This was

furnished by the withdrawal of the solar beams; the clouds did come

down, covering up the space of blue on which our hopes had so long

rested. I abandoned the telescope and walked to and fro, like a leopard

in its cage. As the moment of totality approached, the descent towards

darkness was as obvious as a falling stone. I looked towards a distant

ridge, where I knew the darkness would first appear. At the moment a

fan of beams, issuing from the hidden sun, was spread out over the

southern heavens. These beams are bars of alternate light and shade,

produced in illuminated haze by the shadows of floating cloudlets of

varying density. The beams are really parallel, but by an effect of

perspective they appear divergent, like a fan, having the sun, in fact,

for their point of intersection. The darkness took possession of the

ridge to which I have referred, lowered upon M. Janssen’s observatory,

passed over the southern heavens, blotting out the beams as if a

sponge had been drawn across them. It then took successive possession

of three spaces of blue sky in the south-eastern atmosphere. I again

looked towards the ridge. A glimmer as of day-dawn was behind it, and

immediately afterwards the fan of beams which had been for more than

two minutes absent revived. The eclipse of 1870 had ended, and, as far

as the corona was concerned, we had been defeated.

Even in the heart of the eclipse the darkness was by no means perfect.

Small print could be read. In fact, the clouds which rendered the

day a dark one, by scattering light into the shadow, rendered it

less intense than it would have been had the atmosphere been without

cloud. In the more open spaces I sought for stars, but could find

none. There was a lull in the wind before and after totality, but

during the totality the wind was strong. I waited for some time on the

bastionet, hoping to get a glimpse of the moon on the opposite border

of the sun, but in vain. The clouds continued, and some rain fell.

The day brightened somewhat afterwards, and, having packed all up, in

the sober twilight Mr. Crookes and myself climbed the heights above

the fort of Vera Cruz. From this eminence we had a very noble view

over the Mediterranean and the flanking African hills. The sunset was

remarkable, and the whole outlook exceedingly fine.

The able and well-instructed medical officer of the ‘Urgent,’ Mr.

Goodman, observed the following temperatures during the progress of the

eclipse:

Hour Deg.

11.45 56

11.55 55

12.10 54

12.37 53

12.39 52

12.43 51

1.5 52

1.27 53

1.44 56

2.10 57

The minimum temperature occurred some minutes after totality, when a

slight rain fell.

The wind was so strong on the 23rd that Captain Henderson would not

venture out. Guided by Mr. Goodman, I visited a cave scooped into a

remarkable stratum of shell-breccia, and, thanks to my guide, secured

specimens. Mr. Busk informs me that a precisely similar breccia

is found at Gibraltar at approximately the same level. During the

afternoon Admiral Ommaney and myself drove to the fort of Marsa el

Kibir. The fortification is of ancient origin, the Moorish arches being

still there in decay, but the fort is now very strong. About four or

five hundred dragoons, fine-looking men, were looking after their

horses, waiting for a lull to enable them to embark for France. One of

their officers was wandering in a very solitary fashion over the fort.

We had some conversation with him. He had been at Sedan, had been taken

prisoner, but had effected his escape. He shook his head when we spoke

of the termination of the war, and predicted its long continuance.

There was bitterness in his tone as he spoke of the charges of treason

which had been so lightly levelled against French commanders. The green

waves raved round the promontory on which the fort stands, smiting the

rocks, breaking into snow, and jumping, after impact, to a height of

a hundred feet and more into the air. On our return our vehicle broke

down through the loss of a wheel. The Admiral went on board, while I

hung long over the agitated sea. The little horses of Oran well merit a

passing word. Their speed and endurance, which are both heavily drawn

upon by their drivers, are extraordinary.

The wind sinking, we lifted anchor on the 24th. For some hours we went

pleasantly along; but during the afternoon the storm revived, and it

blew heavily against us all the night. When we came opposite the Bay

of Almeria, on the 25th, the captain turned the ship, and steered

into the bay, where, under the shadow of the Sierra Nevada, we passed

Christmas night in peace. Next morning ‘a rose of dawn’ rested on the

snows of the adjacent mountains, while a purple haze was spread over

the lower hills. I had no notion that Spain possessed so fine a range

of mountains as the Sierra Nevada. The height is considerable, but the

form also is such as to get the maximum of grandeur out of the height.

We got away at eight A.M., passing for a time through shoal water, the

bottom of which had been evidently stirred up. The adjacent land seemed

eroded in a remarkable manner. Doubtless it has its times of flood,

which excavate these valleys and ravines, and leave those singular

ridges behind. Towards evening I climbed the mainmast, and, standing

on the crosstrees, saw the sun set amid a blaze of fiery clouds. The

wind was strong and bitterly cold, and I was glad to return to the deck

along a rope which stretched from the mast-head to the ship’s side.

That night we cast anchor beside the Mole of Gibraltar.

On the morning of the 27th, in company with two friends, I drove to

the Spanish lines, with the view of seeing the rock from that side. It

is an exceedingly noble mass. The Peninsular and Oriental mail-boat

had been signalled and had come. Heavy duties called me homeward, and

by transferring myself from the ‘Urgent’ to the mail-steamer I should

gain three days. I hired a boat, rowed to the steamer, learned that

she was to start at one, and returned with all speed to the ‘Urgent.’

Making known to Captain Henderson my wish to get away, he expressed

doubts as to the possibility of reaching the mail-steamer in time. With

his accustomed kindness, he, however, placed a boat at my disposal.

Four hardy fellows and one of the ship’s officers jumped into it; my

luggage, hastily thrown together, was tumbled in afterwards, and we

were immediately on our way. We had nearly four miles to row in about

twenty minutes; but we hoped the mail-boat might not be punctual. For a

time we watched her anxiously; there was no motion; we came nearer, but

the flags were not yet hauled in. The men put forth all their strength,

animated by the exhortations of the officer at the helm. The roughness

of the sea rendered their efforts to some extent nugatory: still we

were rapidly approaching the steamer. At length she moved, punctually

almost to the minute, at first slowly, but soon with quickened pace. We

turned to the left, so as to cut across her bows. Five minutes’ pull

would have brought us up to her. The officer waved his cap and I my

hat. ‘If they could only see us, they might back to us in a moment.’

But they did not see us, or if they did, they paid no attention to

us. I returned to the ‘Urgent,’ discomfited, but grateful to the fine

fellows who had wrought so hard to carry out my wishes.

Glad of the quiet, in the sober afternoon I took a walk towards Europa

Point. The sky darkened, and heavy squalls passed at intervals. Rain

began to fall, and I returned home. Private theatricals were at the

Convent, and the kind and courteous Governor had sent cards to the

eclipse party. I failed in my duty in not going. I had heard of St.

Michael’s Cave as rivalling, if not outrivalling, the Mammoth Cave of

Kentucky. On the 28th Messrs. Crookes, Carpenter, and myself, guided

by a military policeman who understood his work, explored the cavern.

The mouth is about 1,100 feet above the sea. We zigzagged up to it,

and first were led into an aperture in the rock some height above the

true entrance of the cave. In this upper cavern we saw some tall and

beautiful stalactite pillars.

The water drips from the roof charged with bicarbonate of lime.

Exposed to the air, the carbonic acid partially escapes, and the

simple carbonate of lime, which is hardly at all soluble in water,

deposits itself as a solid, forming stalactites and stalagmites. Even

the exposure of chalk or limestone water to the open air partially

softens it. A specimen of the Redbourne water exposed by Messrs.

Graham, Miller, and Hofmann in a shallow basin, fell from eighteen

degrees to nine degrees of hardness. The softening process of Clark is

virtually a hastening of the natural process. Here, however, instead of

being permitted to evaporate, half the carbonic acid is appropriated

by lime, the half thus taken up, as well as the remaining half, being

precipitated. The solid precipitate is permitted to sink, and the clear

supernatant liquid is limpid soft water.

We returned to the real mouth of St. Michael’s Cave, which is entered

by a wicket. The floor was somewhat muddy, and the roof and walls were

wet. Our guide took off his coat, but we did not follow his example. We

were soon in the midst of a natural temple, where tall columns sprang

complete from floor to roof, while incipient columns were growing

to meet each other, upwards and downwards. The water which trickles

from the stalactite, after having in part yielded up its carbonate of

lime, falls upon the floor vertically underneath, and there builds

the stalagmite. Consequently, the pillars grow from above and below

simultaneously along the same vertical. It is easy to distinguish the

stalagmitic from the stalactitic portion of the pillars. The former

is always divided into short segments by protuberant rings, as if

deposited periodically, while the latter presents a uniform surface.

In some cases the points of inverted cones of stalactite rested on the

centres of pillars of stalagmite. The process of solidification and the

architecture were alike beautiful.

We followed our guide through various branches and arms of the cave,

climbed and descended steps, halted at the edges of dark shafts and

apertures, squeezed ourselves through narrow passages, where the sober

grey of my coat suffered less than the black of my companions’. From

time to time we halted, while Mr. Crookes illuminated with ignited

magnesium wire the roof, columns, dependent spears, and graceful

drapery of the stalactite. Once, coming to a magnificent cluster of

icicle-like spears, we helped ourselves to specimens. There was some

difficulty in detaching the more delicate ones, their fragility was so

great. A consciousness of vandalism which smote me at the time haunts

me still; for, though our requisitions were moderate, this beauty ought

not to be at all invaded. Pendent from the roof in their natural

habitat, nothing can exceed their delicate beauty; they _live_, as it

were, surrounded by organic connections. In London they are curious,

but not beautiful. Of gathered shells Emerson writes:

I wiped away the weeds and foam,

And brought my sea-born treasures home:

But the poor, unsightly, noisome things

Had left their beauty on the shore,

With the sun, and the sand, and the wild uproar.

The promontory of Gibraltar is so burrowed with caverns that it has

been called the Hill of Caves. They are apparently related to the

geologic disturbances which the rock has undergone. The earliest

of these is the tilting of the once horizontal strata. Suppose a

force acting upon the promontory at its southern extremity, near

Europa Point, tending to twist the strata in a direction opposed

to that of the hands of a watch, and suppose the rock to be of a

partially yielding character, such a force would turn the strata into

screw-surfaces, the greatest amount of twisting being endured near the

point of application of the force. Such a twisting the rock appears to

have suffered; but instead of the twist fading gradually and uniformly

off in passing from south to north, the want of uniformity in the

material has produced lines of dislocation where there are abrupt

changes in the amount of twist. Thus, at the northern end of the rock

the dip to the west is nineteen degrees; in the middle hill it is

thirty-eight degrees; in the centre of the south hill, or Sugar Loaf,

it is fifty-seven degrees. At the southern extremity of the Sugar Loaf

the strata are vertical, while further to the south they actually turn

over and dip to the east.

The rock is thus divided into three sections, separated from each other

by surfaces of dislocation, where the rock is much wrenched and broken.

These places of dislocation are called the Northern and Southern

Quebrada, from the Spanish ‘Tierra Quebrada,’ or broken ground; and

it is at these places that the inland caves of Gibraltar are almost

exclusively found. Based on the observations of Dr. Falconer and

himself, an excellent and most interesting account of these caves, and

of the human remains and works of art which they contain, was given

by Mr. Busk at the meeting of the Congress of Prehistoric Archæology

at Norwich, and afterwards printed in the ‘Transactions’ of the

Congress.[47] Long subsequently to the operation of the twisting force

just referred to, the promontory underwent various changes of level.

There are sea-terraces and layers of shell-breccia along its flanks,

and numerous caves which, unlike the inland one, are the product of

marine erosion. The Apes’ Hill, on the African side of the strait, Mr.

Busk informs me has undergone similar disturbances.[48]

[47] In this essay Mr. Busk refers to the previous labours of Mr.

Smith, of Jordan Hill, to whom we owe most of our knowledge of the

geology of the rock.

[48] No one can rise from the perusal of Mr. Busk’s paper without a

feeling of admiration for the principal discoverer and indefatigable

explorer of the Gibraltar caves, the late Captain Frederick Brome.

In the harbour of Gibraltar, on the morning of our departure, I resumed

a series of observations on the colour of the sea. On my way out I had

collected a number of specimens, with a view to subsequent examination.

But the bottles were claret bottles, and I could by no means feel sure

of their purity. At Gibraltar, therefore, I purchased fifteen white

glass bottles, with ground glass stoppers, and at Cadiz, thanks to

the friendly guidance of Mr. Cameron, I secured a dozen more. These

seven-and-twenty bottles were filled with water, taken at different

places between Oran and Spithead.

And here let me express my warmest acknowledgments to Captain

Henderson, the commander of H.M.S. ‘Urgent,’ who aided me in my

observations in every possible way. Indeed, my best thanks are due to

all the officers for their unfailing courtesy and help. The captain

placed at my disposal his own coxswain, an intelligent fellow named

Thorogood, who skilfully attached a cord to each bottle, weighted it

with lead, cast it into the sea, and, after three successive rinsings,

filled it under my own eyes. The contact of jugs, buckets, or other

vessels was thus avoided, and even the necessity of pouring the water

out afterwards through the dirty London air.

The mode of examination applied to these bottles after my return to

London is in some sense complementary to that of the microscope, and

may I think materially aid enquiries conducted with that instrument. In

microscopic examination attention is directed to a small portion of the

liquid, the aim being to detect the individual suspended particles. In

my case, a large portion of the liquid is illuminated by a powerfully

condensed beam, its general condition being revealed through the light

scattered by suspended particles. Care is taken to defend the eye from

the access of all other light, and, thus defended, it becomes an organ

of inconceivable delicacy. Were water of uniform density perfectly free

from suspended matter, it would, in my opinion, scatter no light at

all. The track of a luminous beam could not, I think, be seen in such

water. But an amount of impurity so infinitesimal as to be scarcely

expressible in numbers, and the individual particles of which are so

small as wholly to elude the microscope, may, when examined by the

method alluded to, produce not only sensible, but striking, effects

upon the eye.

The results of the examination of nineteen bottles, filled at various

places between Gibraltar and Spithead, are here tabulated:

No.| Locality |Colour of Sea|Appearance in Electric Beam

---+-------------------------+-------------+------------------------------

1 |Gibraltar Harbour |Green |Thick with fine particles

2 |Two miles from Gibraltar |Clearer green|Thick with very fine particles

3 |Off Cabreta Point |Bright green |Still thick, but less so

4 |Off Cabreta Point |Black-indigo |Much less thick, very pure

5 |Off Tarifa |Undecided |Thicker than No. 4

6 |Beyond Tarifa |Cobalt-blue |Much purer than No. 5

7 |Twelve miles from Cadiz |Yellow-green |Very thick

8 |Cadiz Harbour |Yellow-green |Exceedingly thick

9 |Fourteen miles from Cadiz|Yellow-green |Thick, but less so

10 |Fourteen miles from Cadiz|Bright green |Much less thick

11 |Between Capes St. Mary | |

| and Vincent |Deep indigo | Very little matter, very pure

12 |Off the Burlings |Strong green |Thick with fine matter

13 |Beyond the Burlings |Indigo |Very little matter, pure

14 |Off Cape Finisterre |Undecided |Less pure

15 |Bay of Biscay |Black-indigo |Very little matter, very pure

16 |Bay of Biscay |Indigo |Very fine matter, Iridescent

17 |Off Ushant |Dark green |A good deal of matter

18 |Off St. Catherine’s |Yellow green |Exceedingly thick

19 |Spithead |Green |Exceedingly thick

Here, in the first instance, we have three specimens of water,

described as green, a clearer green, and bright green, taken in

Gibraltar Harbour, at a point two miles from the harbour, and off

Cabreta Point. The home examination showed that the first was thick

with suspended matter, the second less thick, and the third still less

thick. Thus the green brightened as the suspended matter became less.

Previous to the fourth observation our excellent navigating lieutenant,

Mr. Brown, steered along the coast, thus avoiding the adverse current

which sets in through the Strait of Gibraltar from the Atlantic to

the Mediterranean. He was at length forced to cross the boundary of

the Atlantic current, which was defined with extraordinary sharpness.

On the one side of it the water was a vivid green, on the other a deep

blue. Standing at the bow of the ship, a bottle could be filled with

blue water, while at the same moment a bottle cast from the stern could

be filled with bright green water. Two bottles were secured, one on

each side of this remarkable boundary. In the distance the Atlantic

had the hue called ultramarine; but looked fairly down upon, it was of

almost inky blackness--black qualified by a trace of indigo.

What change does the home examination here reveal? In passing to

indigo, the water becomes suddenly augmented in purity, the suspended

matter has become suddenly less. Off Tarifa, the deep indigo

disappears, and the sea is undecided in colour. Accompanying this

change, we have a rise in the quantity of suspended matter. Beyond

Tarifa, we change to cobalt-blue, the suspended matter falling at

the same time in quantity. This water is distinctly purer than the

green. We approach Cadiz, and at twelve miles from the city get into

yellow-green water; this the London examination shows to be thick with

suspended matter. The same is true of Cadiz Harbour, and also of a

point fourteen miles from Cadiz in the homeward direction. Here there

is a sudden change from yellow-green to a bright emerald-green, and

accompanying the change a sudden fall in the quantity of suspended

matter. Between Cape St. Mary and Cape St. Vincent the water changes to

the deepest indigo. In point of purity, this indigo water is shown by

the home examination to transcend the emerald-green water.

We now reach the remarkable group of rocks called the Burlings, and

find the water between the shore and the rocks a strong green; the

home examination shows it to be thick with fine matter. Fifteen or

twenty miles beyond the Burlings we come again into indigo water, from

which the suspended matter has in great part disappeared. Off Cape

Finisterre, about the place where the ‘Captain’ went down, the water

becomes green, and the home examination pronounces it to be thicker.

Then we enter the Bay of Biscay, where the indigo resumes its power,

and where the home examination shows the greatly augmented purity of

the water. A second specimen of water taken from the Bay of Biscay

held in suspension fine particles of a peculiar kind; the size of them

was such as to render the water richly iridescent. It showed itself

green, blue, or salmon colour, according to the direction of the line

of vision. Finally, we come to our last two bottles, the one taken

opposite St. Catherine’s lighthouse, in the Isle of Wight, the other at

Spithead. The sea at both these places was green, and both specimens,

as might be expected, were pronounced by the home examination to be

thick with suspended matter.

Two distinct series of observations are here referred to--the one

consisting of direct observations of the colour of the sea, conducted

during the voyage from Gibraltar to Portsmouth; the other conducted

in the laboratory of the Royal Institution. And here it is to be

noted that in the home examination I never knew what water I had in

my hands. The labels, which had written upon them the names of the

localities, had been tied up, all information regarding the source of

the water being thus precluded. The bottles were simply numbered, and

not till all the waters had been examined were the labels opened, and

the locality and sea-colour corresponding to the various specimens

ascertained. I must, therefore, have been perfectly unbiassed in my

home observations, and they, I think, clearly establish the association

of the green colour of sea-water with fine suspended matter, and the

association of the ultramarine colour, and more especially of the

black-indigo hue of sea-water, with the comparative absence of such

matter.

What, in the first place, is the cause of the dark hue of the deep

ocean?[49] A preliminary remark or two will clear our way towards an

explanation. Colour resides in white light, appearing generally when

any constituent of the white light is withdrawn. The hue of a purple

liquid, for example, is immediately accounted for by its action on a

spectrum. It cuts out the yellow and green, and allows the red and

blue to pass through. The blending of these two colours produces the

purple. But while the liquid attacks with special energy the yellow and

green colours, it enfeebles the whole spectrum; and by increasing the

thickness of the stratum we absorb the whole of the light. The colour

of a blue liquid is similarly accounted for. It first extinguishes the

red; then, as the thickness augments, it attacks the orange, yellow,

and green in succession; the blue alone finally remaining. But even it

might be extinguished by a sufficient depth of liquid.

[49] A note, written to me on October 22, by my friend Canon Kingsley,

contains the following reference to this point: ‘I have never seen the

Lake of Geneva, but I thought of the brilliant dazzling dark blue of

the mid-Atlantic under the sunlight, and its black-blue under cloud,

both so solid that one might leap off the sponson on to it without

fear; this was to me the most wonderful thing which I saw on my voyages

to and from the West Indies.’

And now we are prepared for a brief, but tolerably complete, statement

of the action of sea-water upon light, to which it owes its darkness.

The spectrum embraces three classes of rays--the thermal, the visual,

and the chemical. These divisions overlap each other; the thermal

rays are in part visual, the visual rays in part chemical, and

_vice versâ_. The vast body of thermal rays is beyond the red, being

invisible. These rays are attacked with exceeding energy by water.

They are absorbed close to the surface of the sea, and are the great

agents in evaporation. At the same time the whole spectrum suffers

enfeeblement; water attacks all its rays, but with different degrees

of energy. Of the visual rays, the red are attacked first, and first

extinguished. While the red is disappearing the remaining colours

are enfeebled. As the solar beam plunges deeper into the sea, orange

follows red, yellow follows orange, green follows yellow, and the

various shades of blue, where the water is deep enough, follow green.

Absolute extinction of the solar beam would be the consequence if the

water were deep and uniform; and if it contained no suspended matter,

such water would be as black as ink. A reflected glimmer of ordinary

light would reach us from its surface, as it would from the surface of

actual ink; but no light, hence no colour, would reach us from the body

of the water.

In very clear and very deep sea-water this condition is approximately

fulfilled, and hence the extraordinary darkness of such water. The

indigo, to which I have already referred, is, I believe, to be ascribed

in part to the suspended matter, which is never absent, even in the

purest natural water, and in part to the slight reflection of the

light from the limiting surfaces of strata of different densities.

A modicum of light is thus thrown back to the eye before the depth

necessary to absolute extinction has been attained. An effect precisely

similar occurs under the moraines of the Swiss glaciers. The ice here

is exceptionally compact, and, owing to the absence of the internal

scattering common in bubbled ice, the light plunges into the mass, is

extinguished, and the perfectly clear ice presents an appearance of

pitchy blackness.[50]

[50] I learn from a correspondent that certain Welsh tarns, which are

reputed bottomless, have this inky hue.

The green colour of the sea when it contains matter in a state of

mechanical suspension has now to be accounted for, and here, again,

let us fall back upon the sure basis of experiment. A strong white

dinner-plate was surrounded securely by cord, and had a lead weight

fastened to it. Fifty or sixty yards of strong hempen line were

attached to the plate. With it in his hand, my assistant, Thorogood,

occupied a boat fastened as usual to the davits of the ‘Urgent,’ while

I occupied a second boat nearer to the stern of the ship. He cast the

plate as a mariner heaves the lead, and by the time it had reached me

it had sunk a considerable depth in the water. In all cases the hue of

this plate was green: even when the sea was of the darkest indigo, the

green was vivid and pronounced. I could notice the gradual deepening of

the colour as the plate sank, but at its greatest depth in indigo water

the colour was still a blue-green.[51]

[51] In no case, of course, is the green pure, but a mixture of green

and blue.

Other observations confirmed this one. The ‘Urgent’ is a screw steamer,

and right over the blades of the screw was an orifice called the

screw-well, through which one could look from the poop down upon the

screw. The surface glimmer which so pesters the eye was here in a great

measure removed. Midway down a plank crossed the screw-well from side

to side, and on this I used to place myself to observe the action of

the screw underneath. The eye was rendered sensitive by the moderation

of the light, and, still further to remove all disturbing causes,

Lieutenant Walton had a sail and tarpaulin thrown over the mouth of

the well. Underneath this I perched myself and watched the screw. In

an indigo sea the play of colour was indescribably beautiful, and the

contrast between the water which had the screw-blades for a background,

and that which had the bottom of the ocean as a background, was

extraordinary. The one was of the most brilliant green, the other of

the deepest ultramarine. The surface of the water above the screw-blade

was always ruffled. Liquid lenses were thus formed, by which the

coloured light was withdrawn from some places and concentrated upon

others, the colour being thus caused to flash with metallic lustre. The

screw-blades in this case played the part of the plate in the former

case, and there were other instances of a similar kind. The white

bellies of the porpoises showed the green hue, varying in intensity

as the creatures swung to and fro between the surface and the deeper

water. Foam, at a certain depth below the surface, is also green. In a

rough sea the light which has penetrated the summit of a wave sometimes

reaches the eye, a beautiful green cap being thus placed upon the wave

even in indigo water.

But how is this colour to be connected philosophically with the

suspended particles? Take the dinner-plate which showed so brilliant

a green when thrown into indigo water. Suppose it to diminish in size

until it reaches an almost microscopic magnitude. It would still behave

substantially as the larger plate, sending to the eye its modicum of

green light. If the plate, instead of being a large coherent mass, were

ground to a powder sufficiently fine, and in this condition diffused

through the clear sea-water, it would send green light to the eye. In

fact, the suspended particles which the home examination reveals act in

all essential particulars like the plate, or like the screw-blades, or

like the foam, or like the bellies of the porpoises. Thus I think the

greenness of the sea is physically connected with the matter which it

holds in suspension.

We reached Portsmouth on the 5th of January 1871. There ended a voyage

which, though its main object was not realised, has left behind it

pleasant memories, both of the aspects of nature and the genial

kindliness of men.

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