III.

_STRUCTURE OF GLACIERS._

If a transparent colourless solid be reduced to powder, the powder is

white. Thus rock crystal, rock salt, and glass in powder are all white.

A glass jar, partially filled with a solution of carbonate of soda,

with a little gum added to give it tenacity, presents, on the addition

of a little tartaric acid, the appearance of a tall white column of

foam. In all these cases, the whiteness and the opacity are due to

the intimate and irregular admixture of a solid or a liquid with air;

in like manner the whiteness of snow is due to the mixture of air and

transparent particles of ice.

The snow falls upon mountain eminences, and, above the snow-line, each

year leaves a residue; the substance thus collects in layers, forming

masses of great depth. The lower portions are squeezed by the pressure

of those above them, and a gradual approach to ice is the consequence.

The air being gradually expelled, the transparency of the substance

augments in proportion.

But even after the snow has been squeezed to hard ice in the upper

glacier region, it always contains a large amount of the air originally

entrapped in the snow. The air is distributed through the solid in

the form of bubbles, which give the ice a milky appearance. At the

lower extremity of a glacier the ice, as everybody knows, is blue and

transparent. The transition from one state to the other is not, in all

cases, a gradual change which takes place uniformly throughout the

entire mass. The white ice, on the contrary, of the middle glacier

region is usually striped by veins of a more transparent character,

the air which gives to the ice its whiteness having been, by some

means or other, wholly or partially ejected from the veins. These

veins sometimes give the ice of many glaciers a beautiful laminated

appearance; vast portions, indeed, of various glaciers consist of this

laminated ice.

The theory of the veins which perhaps first presents itself to the

mind, and which is still entertained by many intelligent Alpine

explorers, is that the veining of the middle glaciers is simply a

continuation of the _bedding_ of the _névé_; that not only do the

annual snow-falls produce beds of great thickness, but every successive

fall tends to produce a layer of less thickness, which layers, or the

surfaces separating them, ultimately appear as the blue veins. This

theory demands respectful consideration: on the exposed sections of

the _névé_ the lines of stratification are very manifest, exhibiting

in many cases appearances strongly resembling that of the veined

structure. Indeed, it was with a view to examine this subject more

closely that I withheld my observations on the structure of the Mer

de Glace in 1857, and betook myself once more to the mountains during

the summer of 1858. My desire at that time was to settle once for all

the rival claims of the only two theories which then deserved serious

attention--namely, those of pressure and of stratification.

In pursuance of this idea, I first visited the Lower glacier of

Grindelwald, one of the most accessible, and at the same time most

instructive, in the entire range of the Alps. Ascending the branch of

this glacier which descends from the Schreckhorn, the Strahleck, and

the Finsteraarhorn, I came to the base of an ice-fall which forbade

further advance. Quitting the glacier here, I ascended the side of the

flanking mountain, so as to reach a point from which the fall, and

the glacier below it, are distinctly visible; and from this position

I observed the gradual development and perfecting of the structure at

the base of the fall. On the middle of the fall itself no trace of the

structure was manifest; but where the glacier changed its inclination

at the bottom, being bent upwards so as throw its surface into a state

of intense longitudinal compression, the blue veins first made their

appearance. The base of the fall was a true _structure mill_, where

the transverse veins were manufactured, being afterwards sent forward,

giving a character to portions of the glacier which had no share in

their formation.

I afterwards examined the fall from the opposite side of the valley,

and corroborated the observations. It is difficult, in words, to convey

the force of the evidence which this glacier presents to the observer

who _sees_ it; it seems in fact like a grand laboratory experiment made

by Nature herself with especial reference to the point in question. The

squeezing of the mass, its yielding to the force brought to bear upon

it, its wrinkling and scaling off, and the appearance of the veins at

the exact point where the pressure begins to manifest itself, leave no

doubt on the mind that pressure and structure stand to each other in

the relation of cause and effect, and that the stratification could

have nothing to do with the phenomenon.

I subsequently crossed the Strahleck, descended the glaciers of the

Aar, crossed the Grimsel, and examined the glacier of the Rhone. This

glacier has also its grand ice-fall. In company with Prof. Ramsay, I

climbed in 1858 the precipices flanking the fall at the Grimsel side.

What has been stated regarding the Grindelwald ice-fall is true of

that of the Rhone; the base of the cascade is _the manufactory of the

structure_; and, as all the ice has to pass through this mill, the

entire mass of the glacier from the base of the fall downwards is

beautifully laminated.

Descending the valley of the Rhone to Viesch, I went thence to the

Æggischhorn, and remained for eight days in the vicinity of the

Great Aletsch glacier--the noblest ice-stream of the Alps. A highly

intelligent explorer had adduced certain phenomena of this glacier

as an evidence against the pressure theory of the veined structure;

and I did not think myself justified in quitting the place until I

had perfectly satisfied myself that the Aletsch not only presented no

phenomena at variance with the pressure theory, but exhibited some

which seemed fatal to the theory of the stratification.

I subsequently proceeded to Zermatt, and spent ten days on the

Riffelberg, exploring the entire system of glaciers between Monte Rosa

and the Mont Cervin. These glaciers exhibit, perhaps in a more striking

manner than any others in the Alps, the yielding of glacier ice when

subjected to intense pressure. The great western glacier of Monte

Rosa, the Schwartze glacier, the Trifti glacier, and the glaciers of

St. Theodule, are first spread out as wide and extensive _névés_ over

the breasts of the mountains. They move down, and are finally forced

into the valley containing the trunk, or Görner glacier. Here they are

squeezed to narrow strips, which gradually dwindle in width until they

form driblets not more than a few yards across. From the Görner Grat,

or from the summit of the Riffelhorn, these parallel strips of glacier,

each separated from its neighbour by a medial moraine, present a most

striking and instructive appearance.

The structure of these glaciers was carefully examined, and in all

cases as I travelled from regions where the pressure was feeble to

others where it was intense, the ice changed from a state almost, if

not entirely, structureless, to one in which the veining was exhibited

in great perfection. Each glacier, for example, where it met the

opposing mass in the trunk valley, and was pressed against the latter

by the thrust from behind, exhibited a beautifully developed structure.

Proofs have been already adduced that the Glacier du Géant is in a

state of longitudinal compression; it has also been shown that the

seams of white ice which intersect this glacier are due to the filling

up of the channels of glacier streams by snow, and the subsequent

compression of the substance. Here, then, we have a vast ice-press

which furnishes us with a test of the pressure theory. Both in 1857

and 1858 I found many of these seams of white ice intersected by

blue veins of the finest and most distinct character, their general

direction being at right angles to the direction of pressure.

But the notions of M. Agassiz as to the turning up of the strata so

as to expose their edges at the surface, and the acute remarks and

arguments of Mr. John Ball on the same subject, might still cast a

doubt upon the pressure theory, by suggesting a possible, though

extremely improbable, explanation of the structure in accordance with

the theory of stratification.

Hence my strong desire to discover some crucial phenomenon which should

set this question for ever at rest, and leave no room for doubt, even

on the minds of those who never saw a glacier. On Wednesday, August 18,

I was fortunate enough to make this discovery upon the Furgge glacier.

This ice-field spreads out as an almost level plain at the base of

Mont Cervin. The strata pile themselves one above the other without

disturbance, and hence with great regularity. The ice at length reaches

a brow, over which it is precipitated, forming in its descent four

great terraces, and shutting up the lower valley as a _cul de sac_.

When I reached this place huge blocks of ice stood, like rocking

stones, upon the topmost ledge, and numbers, which had fallen, had been

caught by the other ledges, and occupied very threatening positions:

the base of the fall was cumbered with crushed ice, and large boulders

of the substance had been cast a considerable way down the glacier.

On the faces of the terraces horizontal lines of stratification were

shown in the most perfect manner. Here and there the exertion of a

powerful lateral squeeze was manifest, causing the beds to crumple,

and producing numerous faults. Examining the fall from a distance

through an opera-glass, I thought I could discover lines of veining

running _through_ the strata, at a high angle, exactly as the planes

of cleavage often run at a high angle to the bedding of slate rocks.

The surface of the ice was, however, weathered; and I was unwilling

to accept an observation upon such a cardinal point with a shade of

doubt attached to it. Leaving my field-glass with my guide, who was to

give me warning should the blocks overhead give way, I advanced to the

wall of ice, and at several places cut away with my axe the weathered

superficial portions. Underneath I found the true veined structure,

_running nearly at right angles to the planes of stratification_.

I afterwards climbed the glacier to the right, and, as I ascended,

still better illustrations of the coexistence of the structure and the

strata than those observed upon the terraces exhibited themselves. The

ice was greatly dislocated, and on the faces of the crevasses the

beds were distinctly shown, _with the veins crossing them_. The idea

that the veins could be due to the turning up of the strata is plainly

irreconcileable with these observations.

The same year I visited the Mer de Glace and its tributaries, and found

the pressure key applicable to their phenomena also. The transverse

structure of the Glacier du Géant is formed at the base of the séracs;

that of the Talèfre branch of the Mer de Glace at the base of the

Talèfre ice-fall, where the change of inclination and the thrust from

behind produce the requisite longitudinal compression. I have already

had occasion to remark upon the peculiar dipping of the structure,

and the scaling-off of the protuberances, which are effects of the

same cause. These phenomena are exhibited at the base of all the

ice-cascades.

The principal kinds of structure may be divided into three; as follows:

1st, _Marginal structure_, developed by pressure due to the swifter

motion of the centre of the glacier.

2nd, _Longitudinal structure_, due to mutual pressure of two tributary

glaciers; the structure here is parallel to the medial moraine which

divides the tributaries.

3rd, _Transverse structure_, produced by pressure due to the change of

inclination, and to the longitudinal thrust endured by the glacier at

the base of an ice-fall.

The lamination of a glacier is a peculiarly interesting case of

cleavage. It is produced in the same manner as the lamination of slate

rock, which is known, through the distortion of its fossils, to have

suffered great pressure at right angles to the planes of cleavage.

Hours of Exercise in the Alps · 第 55 / 65 题