XX.

_ALPINE SCULPTURE._

To the physical geologist the conformation of the Alps, and of

mountain-regions generally, constitutes one of the most interesting

problems of the present day. To account for this conformation, two

hypotheses have been advanced, which may be respectively named the

hypothesis of _fracture_ and the hypothesis of _erosion_. Those who

adopt the former maintain that the forces by which the Alps were

elevated produced fissures in the earth’s crust, and that the valleys

of the Alps are the tracks of these fissures. Those who hold the latter

hypothesis maintain that the valleys have been cut out by the action

of ice and water, the mountains themselves being the residual forms

of this grand sculpture. To the erosive action here indicated must be

added that due to the atmosphere (the severance and detachment of rocks

by rain and frost), as affecting the forms of the more exposed and

elevated peaks.

I had heard it stated that the Via Mala was a striking illustration of

the fissure theory--that the profound chasm thus named, and through

which the Hinter-Rhein now flows, could be nothing else than a crack

in the earth’s crust. To the Via Mala I therefore went in 1864 to

instruct myself by actual observation upon the point in question.

The gorge commences about a quarter of an hour above Tusis; and, on

entering it, the first conclusion is that it must be a fissure. This

conclusion in my case was modified as I advanced. Some distance up the

gorge I found upon the slopes to my right quantities of rolled stones,

evidently rounded by water-action. Still further up, and just before

reaching the first bridge which spans the chasm, I found more rolled

stones, associated with sand and gravel. Through this mass of detritus,

fortunately, a vertical cutting had been made, which exhibited a

section showing perfect stratification. There was no agency in the

place to roll these stones, and to deposit these alternating layers of

sand and pebbles, but the river which now rushes some hundreds of feet

below them. At one period of the Via Mala’s history the river must have

run at this high level. Other evidences of water-action soon revealed

themselves. From the parapet of the first bridge I could see the solid

rock 200 feet above the bed of the river scooped and eroded.

It is stated in the guide-books that the river, which usually runs

along the bottom of the gorge, has been known almost to fill it during

violent thunderstorms; and it may be urged that the marks of erosion

which the sides of the chasm exhibit are due to those occasional

floods. In reply to this, it may be stated that even the existence of

such floods is not well authenticated, and that if the supposition

were true, it would be an additional argument in favour of the cutting

power of the river. For if floods operating at rare intervals could

thus erode the rock, the same agency, acting without ceasing upon the

river’s bed, must certainly be competent to excavate it.

I proceeded upwards, and from a point near another bridge (which of

them I did not note) had a fine view of a portion of the gorge. The

river here runs at the bottom of a cleft of profound depth, but so

narrow that it might be leaped across. That this cleft must be a crack

is the impression first produced; but a brief inspection suffices to

prove that it has been cut by the river. From top to bottom we have

the unmistakable marks of erosion. This cleft was best seen by looking

downwards from a point near the bridge; but looking upwards from the

bridge itself, the evidence of aqueous erosion was equally convincing.

The character of the erosion depends upon the rock as well as upon the

river. The action of water upon some rocks is almost purely mechanical;

they are simply ground away or detached in sensible masses. In other

cases the action is chemical as well as mechanical. Water, in passing

over limestone, charges itself with carbonate of lime without damage to

its transparency; the rock is _dissolved_ in the water; and the gorges

cut by water in such rocks often resemble those cut in the ice of

glaciers by glacier streams. To the solubility of limestone is probably

to be ascribed the fantastic forms which peaks of this rock usually

assume, and also the grottos and caverns which interpenetrate limestone

formations. A rock capable of being thus dissolved will expose a smooth

surface after the water has quitted it; and in the case of the Via Mala

it is the polish of the surfaces, and also the curved hollows scooped

in the sides of the gorge, which assure us that the chasm has been the

work of the river.

About four miles from Tusis, and not far from the little village of

Zillis, the Via Mala opens into a plain bounded by high terraces,

evidently cut by water. It occurred to me the moment I saw it that

the plain had been the bed of an ancient lake; and a farmer, who was

my temporary companion, immediately informed me that such was the

tradition of the neighbourhood. This man conversed with intelligence,

and as I drew his attention to the rolled stones, which rest not only

above the river, but above the road, and inferred that the river must

have been there to have rolled those stones, he saw the force of the

evidence perfectly. In fact, in former times, and subsequent to the

retreat of the great glaciers, a rocky barrier crossed the valley at

this place, damming the river which came from the glaciers higher up.

A lake was thus formed which poured its waters over the barrier. Two

actions were here at work, both tending to obliterate the lake--the

raising of its bed by the deposition of detritus, and the cutting of

its dam by the river. In process of time the cut deepened into the

Via Mala; the lake was drained, and the river now flows in a definite

channel through the plain which its waters once totally covered.

From Tusis I crossed to Tiefenkasten by the Schien Pass, and thence

over the Julier Pass to Pontresina. There are three or four ancient

lake-beds between Tiefenkasten and the summit of the Julier. They are

all of the same type--a more or less broad and level valley-bottom,

with a barrier in front through which the river has cut a passage, the

drainage of the lake being the consequence. These lakes are sometimes

dammed by barriers of rock, sometimes by the moraines of ancient

glaciers.

An example of this latter kind occurs in the Rosegg valley, about

twenty minutes below the end of the Rosegg glacier, and about an hour

from Pontresina. The valley here is crossed by a pine-covered moraine

of the noblest dimensions: in the neighbourhood of London it might

be called a mountain. That it is a moraine, the inspection of it

from a point on the Surlei slopes above it will convince any person

possessing an educated eye. Where, moreover, the interior of the mound

is exposed, it exhibits moraine-matter--detritus pulverised by the

ice, with boulders entangled in it. It stretched quite across the

valley, and at one time dammed the river up. But now the barrier is

cut through, the stream having about one-fourth of the moraine to its

right, and the remaining three-fourths to its left. Other moraines of a

more resisting character hold their ground as barriers to the present

day. In the Val di Campo, for example, about three-quarters of an hour

from Pisciadello, there is a moraine composed of large boulders, which

interrupt the course of a river and compel the water to fall over them

in cascades. They have in great part resisted its action since the

retreat of the ancient glacier which formed the moraine. Behind the

moraine is a lake-bed, now converted into a meadow, which is quite

level, and rests on a deep layer of mould.

At Pontresina a very fine and instructive gorge is to be seen. The

river from the Morteratsch glacier rushes through a deep and narrow

chasm which is spanned at one place by a stone bridge. The rock is not

of a character to preserve smooth polishing; but the larger features of

water-action are perfectly evident from top to bottom. Those features

are in part visible from the bridge, but still better from a point a

little distance from the bridge in the direction of the upper village

of Pontresina. The hollowing out of the rock by the eddies of the water

is here quite manifest. A few minutes’ walk upwards brings us to the

end of the gorge; and behind it we have the usual indications of an

ancient lake, and terraces of distinct water origin.

From this position the genesis of the gorge is clearly revealed. After

the retreat of the ancient glacier, a transverse ridge of comparatively

resisting material crossed the valley at this place. Over the lowest

part of this ridge the river flowed, rushing steeply down to join

at the bottom of the slope the stream which issued from the Rosegg

glacier. On this incline the water became a powerful eroding agent, and

finally cut its channel to its present depth.

Geological writers of reputation assume at this place the existence

of a fissure, the ‘washing out’ of which resulted in the formation

of the gorge. Now no examination of the bed of the river ever proved

the existence of this fissure; and it is certain that water can cut

a channel through unfissured rock--that cases of deep cutting can be

pointed out where the clean bed of the stream is exposed, the rock

which forms the floor of the river not exhibiting a trace of fissure.

An example of this kind occurs near the Bernina Gasthaus, about two

hours from Pontresina. A little way below the junction of the two

streams from the Bernina Pass and the Heuthal the river flows through a

channel cut by itself, and 20 or 30 feet in depth. At some places the

river-bed is covered with rolled stones; at other places it is bare,

but shows no trace of fissure. The abstract power of water (if I may

use the term) to cut through rock is demonstrated by such instances.

But if water be competent to form a gorge without the aid of a fissure,

why assume the existence of such in cases like that at Pontresina?

It seems far more philosophical to accept the simple and impressive

history written on the walls of those gorges by the agent which

produced them.

Numerous cases might be pointed out, varying in magnitude, but all

identical in kind, of barriers which crossed valleys and formed

lakes having been cut through by rivers, narrow gorges being the

consequence. One of the most famous examples of this kind is the

Finsteraarschlucht in the valley of Hasli. Here the ridge called the

Kirchet seems split across, and the river Aar rushes through the

fissure. Behind the barrier we have the meadows and pastures of Imhof

resting on the sediment of an ancient lake. Were this an isolated

case, one might reasonably conclude that the Finsteraarschlucht was

produced by an earthquake, as some suppose it to have been; but when

we find it to be a single sample of actions which are frequent in the

Alps--when probably a hundred cases of the same kind, though different

in magnitude, can be pointed out--it seems quite unphilosophical to

assume that in each particular case an earthquake was at hand to form

a channel for the river. As in the case of the barrier at Pontresina,

the Kirchet, after the retreat of the Aar glacier, dammed the waters

flowing from it, thus forming a lake, on the bed of which now stands

the village of Imhof. Over this barrier the Aar tumbled towards

Meyringen, cutting, as the centuries passed, its bed ever deeper, until

finally it became deep enough to drain the lake, leaving in its place

the alluvial plain, through which the river now flows in a definite

channel.[20]

[20] For further observations see p. 256.

But the broad view taken by the advocates of the fracture theory is,

that the valleys are the tracks of primeval fissures produced by the

upheaval of the land, and the cracks across the barriers to which I

have referred are in reality portions of the great cracks which formed

the valleys. Such an argument, however, would virtually concede the

theory of erosion as applied to the _valleys_ of the Alps. The narrow

gorges, often not more than twenty or thirty feet across, sometimes

even narrower, frequently occur at the bottom of broad valleys. Such

fissures might enter into the list of accidents which gave direction to

the real erosive agents which scooped the valley out; but the formation

of the valley, as it now exists, could no more be ascribed to it than

the motion of a railway train could be ascribed to the finger of the

engineer which turns on the steam.

These deep gorges occur, I believe, for the most part in limestone

strata; and the effects which the merest driblet of water can produce

on such rocks are quite astonishing. It is not uncommon to meet chasms

of considerable depth produced by small streams the beds of which are

dry for a large portion of the year. Right and left of the larger

gorges such secondary chasms are usually to be found. The idea of

_time_ must, I think, be more and more included in our reasonings on

these phenomena. Happily, the marks which the rivers have, in most

cases, left behind them, and which refer, geologically considered, to

actions of yesterday, give us ground and courage to conceive what may

be effected in geologic periods. Thus the modern portion of the Via

Mala throws light upon the whole. Near Bergün, in the valley of the

Albula, there is also a little Via Mala, which is not less significant

than the great one. The river flows here through a profound limestone

gorge; but to the very edges of the gorge we have the evidences of

erosion. The most striking illustration of water-action upon limestone

rock which I have ever witnessed is, I think, furnished by the gorge at

Pfäffers. Here the traveller passes along the side of the chasm midway

between top and bottom. Whichever way he looks, backwards or forwards,

upwards or downwards, towards the sky or towards the river, he meets

everywhere the irresistible and impressive evidence that this wonderful

fissure has been sawn through the mountain by the waters of the Tamina.

I have thus far confined myself to the consideration of the gorges

formed by the cutting through of the rock-barriers which frequently

cross the valleys of the Alps; as far as I have examined them they are

the work of erosion. But the larger question still remains, To what

action are we to ascribe the formation of the valleys themselves? This

question includes that of the formation of the mountain-ridges, for

were the valleys wholly filled, the ridges would disappear. Possibly no

answer can be given to this question which is not beset with more or

less of difficulty. Special localities might be found which would seem

to contradict every solution which refers the conformation of the Alps

to the operation of a single cause.

Still the Alps present features of a character sufficiently definite

to bring the question of their origin within the sphere of close

reasoning. That they were in whole or in part once beneath the sea will

not be disputed; for they are in great part composed of sedimentary

rocks which required a sea to form them. Their present elevation

above the sea is due to one of those local changes in the shape of

the earth which have been of frequent occurrence throughout geologic

time, and which in some cases have depressed the land, and in others

caused the sea-bottom to protrude beyond its surface. Considering the

inelastic character of its materials, the protuberance of the Alps

could hardly have been pushed out without dislocation and fracture; and

this conclusion gains in probability when we consider the foldings,

contortions, and even reversals in position of the strata in many parts

of the Alps. Such changes in the position of beds which were once

horizontal could not have been effected without dislocation. Fissures

would be produced by these changes; and such fissures, the advocates of

the fracture theory contend, mark the positions of the valleys of the

Alps.

Imagination is necessary to the man of science, and we could not reason

on our present subject without the power of presenting mentally a

picture of the earth’s crust cracked and fissured by the forces which

produced its upheaval. Imagination, however, must be strictly checked

by reason and by observation. That fractures occurred cannot, I

think, be doubted, but that the valleys of the Alps are thus formed is

a conclusion not at all involved in the admission of dislocations. I

never met with a precise statement of the manner in which the advocates

of the fissure theory suppose the forces to have acted--whether they

assume a general elevation of the region, or a local elevation of

distinct ridges; or whether they assume local subsidences after a

general elevation, or whether they would superpose upon the general

upheaval minor and local upheavals.

In the absence of any distinct statement, I will assume the elevation

to be general--that a swelling out of the earth’s crust occurred here,

sufficient to place the most prominent portions of the protuberance

three miles above the sea-level. To fix the ideas, let us consider

a circular portion of the crust, say one hundred miles in diameter,

and let us suppose, in the first instance, the circumference of this

circle to remain fixed, and that the elevation was confined to the

space within it. The upheaval would throw the crust into a state of

strain; and, if it were inflexible, the strain must be relieved by

fracture. Crevasses would thus intersect the crust. Let us now enquire

what proportion the area of these open fissures is likely to bear to

the area of the unfissured crust. An approximate answer is all that

is here required; for the problem is of such a character as to render

minute precision unnecessary.

No one, I think, would affirm that the area of the fissures would be

one-hundredth the area of the land. For let us consider the strain upon

a single line drawn over the summit of the protuberance from a point on

its rim to a point opposite. Regarding the protuberance as a spherical

swelling, the length of the arc corresponding to a chord of 100 miles

and a versed sine of 3 miles is 100.24 miles; consequently the surface

to reach its new position must stretch 0.24 of a mile, or be broken. A

fissure or a number of cracks with this total width would relieve the

strain; that is to say, the sum of the widths of all the cracks over

the length of 100 miles would be 420 yards. If, instead of comparing

the width of the fissures with the length of the lines of tension, we

compared their areas with the area of the unfissured land, we should of

course find the proportion much less. These considerations will help

the imagination to realise what a small ratio the area of the open

fissures must bear to the unfissured crust. They enable us to say, for

example, that to assume the area of the fissures to be one-tenth of

the area of the land would be quite absurd, while that the area of the

fissures could be one-half or more than one-half that of the land would

be in a proportionate degree unthinkable. If we suppose the elevation

to be due to the shrinking or subsidence of the land all round our

assumed circle, we arrive equally at the conclusion that the area of

the open fissures would be altogether insignificant as compared with

that of the unfissured crust.

To those who have seen them from a commanding elevation, it is needless

to say that the Alps themselves bear no sort of resemblance to the

picture which this theory presents to us. Instead of deep cracks with

approximately vertical walls, we have ridges before us running into

peaks, and gradually sloping to form valleys. Instead of a fissured

crust, we have a state of things closely resembling the surface of the

ocean when agitated by a storm. The valleys, instead of being much

narrower than the ridges, occupy the greater space. A plaster cast

of the Alps turned upside down, so as to invert the elevations and

depressions, would exhibit blunter and broader mountains, with narrower

valleys between them, than the present ones. The valleys that exist

cannot, I think, with any correctness of language be called fissures.

It may be urged that they originated in fissures: but even this is

unproved, and, were it proved, would still make the fissures play the

subordinate part of giving direction to the agents which are to be

regarded as the real sculptors of the Alps.

The fracture theory, then, if it regards the elevation of the Alps

as due to the operation of a force acting throughout the entire

region, is, in my opinion, utterly incompetent to account for the

conformation of the country. If, on the other hand, we are compelled

to resort to local disturbances, the manipulation of the earth’s

crust necessary to obtain the valleys and the mountains will, I

imagine, bring the difficulties of the theory into very strong relief.

Indeed an examination of the region from many of the more accessible

eminences--from the Galenstock, the Grauhaupt, the Pitz Languard,

the Monte Confinale--or, better still, from Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa,

the Jungfrau, the Finsteraarhorn, the Weisshorn, or the Matterhorn,

where local peculiarities are toned down, and the operations of the

powers which really made this region what it is are alone brought into

prominence--must, I imagine, convince every physically-minded man

of the inability of any fracture theory to account for the present

conformation of the Alps.

A correct model of the mountains, with an unexaggerated vertical

scale, produces the same effect upon the mind as the prospect from one

of the highest peaks. We are apt to be influenced by local phenomena

which, though insignificant in view of the general question of Alpine

conformation, are, with reference to our customary standards, vast and

impressive. In a true model those local peculiarities disappear; for

on the scale of a model they are too small to be visible; while the

essential facts and forms are presented to the undistracted attention.

A minute analysis of the phenomena strengthens the conviction which the

general aspect of the Alps fixes in the mind. We find, for example,

numerous valleys which the most ardent plutonist would not think of

ascribing to any other agency than erosion. That such is their genesis

and history is as certain as that erosion produced the Chines in the

Isle of Wight. From these indubitable cases of erosion--commencing,

if necessary, with the small ravines which run down the flanks of the

ridges, with their little working navigators at their bottoms--we can

proceed, by almost insensible gradations, to the largest valleys of the

Alps; and it would perplex the plutonist to fix upon the point at which

fracture begins to play a material part.

In ascending one of the larger valleys, we enter it where it is wide

and where the eminences are gentle on either side. The flanking

mountains become higher and more abrupt as we ascend, and at length we

reach a place where the depth of the valley is a maximum. Continuing

our walk upwards, we find ourselves flanked by gentler slopes, and

finally emerge from the valley and reach the summit of an open col,

or depression in the chain of mountains. This is the common character

of the large valleys. Crossing the col, we descend along the opposite

slope of the chain, and through the same series of appearances in the

reverse order. If the valleys on both sides of the col were produced

by fissures, what prevents the fissure from prolonging itself across

the col? The case here cited is representative; and I am not acquainted

with a single instance in the Alps where the chain has been cracked in

the manner indicated. The cols are simply depressions, and in the case

of many of them the unfissured rock can be traced from side to side.

The typical instance just sketched follows as a natural consequence

from the theory of erosion. Before either ice or water can exert great

power as an erosive agent, it must collect in sufficient mass. On the

higher slopes and plateaus--in the region of cols--the power is not

fully developed; but lower down tributaries unite, erosion is carried

on with increased vigour, and the excavation gradually reaches a

maximum. Lower still the elevations diminish and the slopes become more

gentle; the cutting power gradually relaxes, until finally the eroding

agent quits the mountains altogether, and the grand effects which it

produced in the earlier portions of its course entirely disappear.

I have hitherto confined myself to the consideration of the broad

question of the erosion theory as compared with the fracture theory;

and all that I have been able to observe and think with reference

to the subject leads me to adopt the former. Under the term erosion

I include the action of water, of ice, and of the atmosphere,

including frost and rain. Water and ice, however, are the principal

agents, and which of these two has produced the greatest effect it

is perhaps impossible to say. Two years ago I wrote a brief note ‘On

the Conformation of the Alps,’[21] in which I ascribed the paramount

influence to glaciers. The facts on which that opinion was founded are,

I think, unassailable; but whether the conclusion then announced fairly

follows from the facts is, I confess, an open question.

[21] Phil. Mag. vol. xxiv. p. 169.

The arguments which have been thus far urged against the conclusion

are not convincing. Indeed, the idea of glacier erosion appears so

daring to some minds that its boldness alone is deemed its sufficient

refutation. It is, however, to be remembered that a precisely similar

position was taken up by many respectable people when the question of

ancient glacier extension was first mooted. The idea was considered

too hardy to be entertained; and the evidences of glacial action were

sought to be explained by reference to almost any process rather than

the true one. Let those who so wisely took the side of ‘boldness’ in

that discussion beware lest they place themselves, with reference to

the question of glacier erosion, in the position formerly occupied by

their opponents.

Looking at the little glaciers of the present day--mere pigmies as

compared to the giants of the glacial epoch--we find that from every

one of them issues a river more or less voluminous, charged with the

matter which the ice has rubbed from the rocks. Where the rocks are

of a soft character, the amount of this finely pulverised matter

suspended in the water is very great. The water, for example, of the

river which flows from Santa Catarina to Bormio is thick with it. The

Rhine is charged with this matter, and by it has so silted up the Lake

of Constance as to abolish it for a large fraction of its length. The

Rhone is charged with it, and tens of thousands of acres of cultivable

land are formed by it above the Lake of Geneva.

In the case of every glacier we have two agents at work--the ice

exerting a crushing force on every point of its bed which bears its

weight, and either rasping this point into powder or tearing it bodily

from the rock to which it belongs; while the water which everywhere

circulates upon the bed of the glacier continually washes the detritus

away and leaves the rock clean for further abrasion. Confining the

action of glaciers to the simple rubbing away of the rocks, and

allowing them sufficient time to act, it is not a matter of opinion,

but a physical certainty, that they will scoop out valleys. But the

glacier does more than abrade. Rocks are not homogeneous; they are

intersected by joints and places of weakness, which divide them into

virtually detached masses. A glacier is undoubtedly competent to root

such masses bodily away. Indeed the mere _à priori_ consideration of

the subject proves the competence of a glacier to deepen its bed.

Taking the case of a glacier 1,000 feet deep (and some of the older

ones were probably three times this depth), and allowing 40 feet of ice

to an atmosphere, we find that on every square inch of its bed such a

glacier presses with a weight of 375 lbs., and on every square yard

of its bed with a weight of 486,000 lbs. With a _vertical_ pressure

of this amount the glacier is urged down its valley by the pressure

from behind. We can hardly, I think, deny to such a tool a power of

excavation.

Before concluding these remarks, I refreshed my memory by a second

reading of the paper of Mr. John Ball, published in the ‘Philosophical

Magazine’ for February 1863. Mr. Ball’s great experience of the Alps

naturally renders everything he writes regarding them interesting. But

though I have attended to the suggestions contained in his paper, I

am unable to see the cogency of his arguments. An inspection of the

map of Switzerland, with reference to the direction of its valleys,

suggests to my mind no objection whatever to the theory of erosion.

The reperusal of his paper assured me that Mr. Ball had paid attention

to the formation of ancient lakes. He deems their beds a prominent

feature of Alpine valleys; and he considers the barriers which dammed

them up, and which were not removed by the ancient glaciers, as ‘a

formidable difficulty in the way of Prof. Tyndall’s bold hypothesis.’

‘Looking at the operation as a whole,’ writes Mr. Ball, ‘it is to me

quite inconceivable that a glacier should be competent to scoop out

valleys a mile or more in depth, and yet be unable to remove the main

inequalities from its own channel.’

To this I reply that a glacier _is_ competent to remove such barriers,

and they probably have been ground down in some cases thousands of

feet. But being of more resisting material than the adjacent rock, they

are not ground down to the level of that rock. Were its bed uniform in

the first instance, the glacier would, in my opinion, _produce_ the

inequalities which Mr. Ball thinks it ought to remove. I have recently

had the pleasure of examining some of these barriers in the company

of Mr. Ball; and to me they represented nothing more than the natural

accidents of the locality. It would, I think, be far more wonderful

to find the rocks of the Alps perfectly homogeneous, than to find

them exhibiting such variations of resistance to grinding down as are

actually observed.

The question of lake-basins is now in competent hands, and on its

merits I will offer no opinion. But I cannot help remarking that the

dams referred to by Mr. Ball furnish a conclusive reply to some of the

arguments which have been urged against Prof. Ramsay’s theory. These

barriers have been crossed by the ice, and many of them present steeper

gradients than Prof. Ramsay has to cope with in order to get his ice

out of his lake-basins. An inspection of the barriers shows that they

were incompetent to embay the ice: they are scarred and fluted from

bottom to top. When it is urged against Prof. Ramsay that a glacier

cannot drop into a hole 2,000 feet deep and get out again, the distance

ought to be stated over which these 2,000 feet have to be distributed.

A depression 2,000 feet deep, if only of sufficient length, would

constitute no material obstacle to the motion of a great glacier.

The retardation of a glacier by its bed has also been referred to as

proving its impotence as an erosive agent; but this very retardation is

in some measure an expression of the magnitude of the erosive energy.

Either the bed must give way, or the ice must slide over itself; and

to make ice slide over itself requires great power. We get some idea

of the crushing pressure which the moving glacier exercises against

its bed from the fact that the resistance, and the effort to overcome

it, are such as to make the upper layers of a glacier move bodily over

the lower ones--a portion only of the total motion being due to the

progress of the entire mass of the glacier down its valley.

The sudden bend in the valley of the Rhone at Martigny has also been

regarded as conclusive evidence against the theory of erosion. ‘Why,’

it has been asked, ‘did not the glacier of the Rhone go straight

forward instead of making this awkward bend?’ But if the valley be

a crack, why did the crack make this bend? The crack, I submit, had

at least as much reason to prolong itself in a straight line as the

glacier had. A statement of Sir John Herschel with reference to another

matter is perfectly applicable here: ‘A crack once produced has a

tendency to run--for this plain reason, that at its momentary limit,

at the point at which it has just arrived, the divellent force on the

molecules there situated is counteracted only by half of the cohesive

force which acted when there was no crack, viz. the cohesion of the

uncracked portion alone’ (‘Proc. Roy. Soc.’ vol. xii. p. 678). To

account then for the bend, the adherent of the fracture theory must

assume the existence of some accident which turned the crack at right

angles to itself; and he surely will permit the adherent of the erosion

theory to make a similar assumption.

The influence of small accidents on the direction of rivers is

beautifully illustrated in glacier streams, which are made to cut

either straight or sinuous channels by causes apparently of the

most trivial character. In his interesting paper ‘On the Lakes of

Switzerland,’ M. Studer also refers to the bend of the Rhine at Sargans

in proof that the river must there follow a pre-existing fissure. I

made a special expedition to the place in 1864; and though I felt that

M. Studer had good grounds for the selection of this spot, I was unable

to arrive at his conclusion as to the necessity of a fissure.

Again, in the interesting volume recently published by the Swiss

Alpine Club, M. Desor informs us that the Swiss naturalists who met

last year at Samaden visited the end of the Morteratsch glacier, and

there convinced themselves that a glacier had no tendency whatever to

imbed itself in the soil. I scarcely think that the question of glacier

erosion, as applied either to lakes or valleys, is to be disposed of so

easily. Let me record here my experience of the Morteratsch glacier.

I took with me in 1864 a theodolite to Pontresina, and while there

had to congratulate myself on the invaluable aid of my friend Mr.

Hirst, who in 1857 did such good service upon the Mer de Glace and its

tributaries. We set out three lines across the Morteratsch glacier,

one of which crossed the ice-stream near the well-known hut of the

painter Georgei, while the two others were staked out, the one above

the hut and the other below it. Calling the highest line A, the line

which crossed the glacier at the hut B, and the lowest line C, the

following are the mean hourly motions of the three lines, deduced from

observations which extended over several days. On each line eleven

stakes were fixed, which are designated by the figures 1, 2, 3, &c. in

the Tables.

_Morteratsch Glacier, Line_ A.

No. of Stake. Hourly Motion.

1 0.35 inch.

2 0.49 „

3 0.53 „

4 0.54 „

5 0.56 „

6 0.54 „

7 0.52 „

8 0.49 „

9 0.40 „

10 0.29 „

11 0.20 „

As in all other measurements of this kind, the retarding influence

of the sides of the glacier is manifest: the centre moves with the

greatest velocity.

_Morteratsch Glacier, Line_ B.

No. of Stake. Hourly Motion.

1 0.05 inch.

2 0.14 „

3 0.24 „

4 0.32 „

5 0.41 „

6 0.44 „

7 0.44 „

8 0.45 „

9 0.43 „

10 0.44 „

11 0.44 „

The first stake of this line was quite close to the edge of the

glacier, and the ice was thin at the place, hence its slow motion.

Crevasses prevented us from carrying the line sufficiently far across

to render the retardation of the further side of the glacier fully

evident.

_Morteratsch Glacier, Line_ C.

No of Stake. Hourly Motion.

1 0.05 inch.

2 0.09 „

3 0.18 „

4 0.20 „

5 0.25 „

6 0.27 „

7 0.27 „

8 0.30 „

9 0.21 „

10 0.20 „

11 0.16 „

Comparing the three lines together, it will be observed that the

velocity diminishes as we descend the glacier. In 100 hours the maximum

motion of the three lines respectively is as follows:

_Maximum Motion in 100 hours._

Line A 56 inches

„ B 45 „

„ C 30 „

This deportment explains an appearance which must strike every observer

who looks upon the Morteratsch from the Piz Languard, or from the new

Bernina Road. A medial moraine runs along the glacier, commencing as

a narrow streak, but towards the end the moraine extending in width,

until finally it quite covers the terminal portion of the glacier.

The cause of this is revealed by the foregoing measurements, which

prove that a stone on the moraine where it is crossed by the line A

approaches a second stone on the moraine where it is crossed by the

line C with a velocity of twenty-six inches per one hundred hours.

The moraine is in a state of longitudinal compression. Its materials

are more and more squeezed together, and they must consequently move

laterally and render the moraine at the terminal portion of the glacier

wider than above.

The motion of the Morteratsch glacier, then, diminishes as we descend.

The maximum motion of the third line is thirty inches in one hundred

hours, or seven inches a day--a very slow motion; and had we run a line

nearer to the end of the glacier, the motion would have been slower

still. At the end itself it is nearly insensible. Now I submit that

this is not the place to seek for the scooping power of a glacier. The

opinion appears to be prevalent that it is the snout of a glacier that

must act the part of ploughshare; and it is certainly an erroneous

opinion. The scooping power will exert itself most where the weight,

and consequently (other things being equal) the motion, is greatest.

A glacier’s snout often _rests upon_ matter which has been scooped

from the glacier’s bed higher up. I therefore do not think that the

inspection of what the end of a glacier does or does not accomplish can

decide this question.

The snout of a glacier is potent to remove anything against which it

can fairly abut; and this power, notwithstanding the slowness of the

motion, manifests itself at the end of the Morteratsch glacier. A

hillock, bearing pine-trees, was in front of the glacier when Mr. Hirst

and myself inspected its end; and this hillock is being bodily removed

by the thrust of the ice. Several of the trees are overturned; and in a

few years, if the glacier continues its reputed advance, the mound will

certainly be ploughed away.

I will here record a few other measurements executed on the Rosegg

glacier: the line was staked out across the trunk formed by the

junction of the Rosegg proper with the Tschierva glacier, a short

distance below the rocky promontory called Agaliogs.

_Rosegg Glacier._

No. of Stake. Hourly Motion.

1 0.01 inch.

2 0.05 „

3 0.07 „

4 0.10 „

5 0.11 „

6 0.13 „

7 0.14 „

8 0.18 „

9 0.24 „

10 0.23 „

11 0.24 „

This is an extremely slowly moving glacier; the maximum hardly amounts

to seven inches a day. Crevasses prevented us from continuing the line

quite across the glacier.

To return to the question of Alpine conformation: it stands, I think,

thus: We have, in the first place, great valleys, such as those of the

Rhine and the Rhone, which we might conveniently call valleys of the

first order. The mountains which flank these main valleys are also cut

by lateral valleys running into the main one, and which may be called

valleys of the second order. When these latter are examined, smaller

valleys are found running into them, which may be called valleys of

the third order. Smaller ravines and depressions, again, join the

latter, which may be called valleys of the fourth order, and so on

until we reach streaks and cuttings so minute as not to merit the name

of valleys at all. At the bottom of every valley we have a stream,

diminishing in magnitude as the order of the valley ascends, carving

the earth and carrying its materials to lower levels. We find that the

larger valleys have been filled for untold ages by glaciers of enormous

dimensions, always moving, grinding down and tearing away the rocks

over which they passed. We have, moreover, on the plains at the feet of

the mountains, and in enormous quantities, the very matter derived from

the sculpture of the mountains themselves.

The plains of Italy and Switzerland are cumbered by the _débris_ of

the Alps. The lower, wider, and more level valleys are also filled to

unknown depths with the materials derived from the higher ones. In

the vast quantities of moraine-matter which cumber many even of the

higher valleys we have also suggestions as to the magnitude of the

erosion which has taken place. This moraine-matter, moreover, can only

in small part have been derived from the falling of rocks _upon_ the

ancient glacier; it is in great part derived from the grinding and the

ploughing-out of the glacier itself. This accounts for the magnitude of

many of the ancient moraines, which date from a period when almost all

the mountains were covered with ice and snow, and when, consequently,

the quantity of moraine-matter derived from the naked crests cannot

have been considerable.

The erosion theory ascribes the formation of Alpine valleys to the

agencies here briefly referred to. It invokes nothing but true causes.

Its artificers are still there, though, it may be, in diminished

strength; and if they are granted sufficient time, it is demonstrable

that they are competent to produce the effects ascribed to them. And

what does the fracture theory offer in comparison? From no possible

application of this theory, pure and simple, can we obtain the slopes

and forms of the mountains. Erosion must in the long run be invoked,

and its power therefore conceded. The fracture theory infers from the

disturbances of the Alps the existence of fissures; and this is a

probable inference. But that they were of a magnitude sufficient to

determine the conformation of the Alps, and that they followed, as the

Alpine valleys do, the lines of natural drainage of the country, are

assumptions which do not appear to me to be justified either by reason

or by observation.

There is a grandeur in the secular integration of small effects implied

by the theory of erosion almost superior to that involved in the idea

of a cataclysm. Think of the ages which must have been consumed in the

execution of this colossal sculpture. The question may, of course, be

pushed to further limits. Think of the ages which the molten earth

required for its consolidation. But these vaster epochs lack sublimity

through our inability to grasp them. They bewilder us, but they fail

to make a solemn impression. The genesis of the mountains comes more

within the scope of the intellect, and the majesty of the operation is

enhanced by our partial ability to conceive it. In the falling of a

rock from a mountain-head, in the shoot of an avalanche, in the plunge

of a cataract, we often see more impressive illustrations of the power

of gravity than in the motions of the stars. When the intellect has

to intervene, and calculation is necessary to the building up of the

conception, the expansion of the feelings ceases to be proportional to

the magnitude of the phenomena.

Hours of Exercise in the Alps · 第 38 / 65 题