CHAPTER XII

WHEN SHALL WE PLANT?

Nature has endowed the strawberry-plant with the power of taking root

and growing readily at almost any season when young plants can be

obtained. My best success, however, has been in November and early

spring. The latter part of May and the month of June is the only time

at which I have not planted with satisfactory results. In Northern

latitudes, early spring is preferable, for at this season the ground is

moist, showers are abundant, and the impulse of growth is strong. The

weather is cool, also, and therefore the plants rarely heat or dry out

during transportation.

In the South, autumn is by far the best time to plant. When the young

plants are grown on the same place, they may be transferred to the

fruiting beds and fields any time between July and the middle of

November. The earlier they are set out, if they can be kept growing

during the remainder of the hot season, the larger will be the yield

the following spring. As a rule, plants, unless grown in pots, can not

be shipped from the North or South until cold weather. The forwarding

to the latitude of Richmond begins in September, and to points further

south in October and November; from Florida to Louisiana I hear of

almost unvarying success.

Of late years the practice of growing plants in pots and sending them

out as the florists do flowers has become very prevalent. These potted

plants can be set out in July, August and September, and the ball of

earth clinging to their roots prevents wilting, and, unless they are

neglected, insures their living. Pot-grown plants are readily obtained

by sinking two and a half or three inch pots up to their rims in the

propagating-beds, and filling them with rich earth mingled with old,

thoroughly rotted compost, leaf mould, decayed sods, etc., but never

with fresh, unfermented manure. I have found the admixture of a little

fine bone meal with the soil to be strong aid to vigorous growth. The

young runners are then so guided and held down by a small stone or lump

of earth that they will take root in the pots, indeed, quite large

plants, if still attached to thrifty runners, may be taken up, their

roots shortened to one-quarter of an inch, and these inserted in the

little pots, which will be speedily filled with a new growth of roots.

It is very important that abundant and continuous moisture should be

maintained. A hot wind or a scorching sun will dry out within a few

hours the small amount of earth the pots contain, and the plants thus

receive a check from which they may never recover. The amateur should

watch them closely, and the plant grower should employ a man with the

clear understanding that he would lose his position if he permitted

moisture to fail even for half a day.

In about two weeks, with good management, the plants will fill the pots

with roots, which so interlace as to hold the ball of earth compactly

together during transportation. This ball of earth with the roots,

separates readily from the pot, and the plant, thus sustained, could be

shipped around the world if kept from drying out and the foliage

protected from the effects of alternate heat and cold. The agricultural

editor of the "New York Weekly Times" writes me that the potted plants

are worth their increased cost, if for no other reason, because they

are so easily planted in hot weather.

The chief advantage of summer planting lies in the fact that we obtain

a good crop the following season, while plants set out in spring should

not be permitted to bear at all the same year. If we discover in May or

June that our supply is insufficient, or that some new varieties offer

us paradisiacal flavors, we can set out the plants in the summer or

autumn of the same year, and within eight or ten months gather the

fruits of our labors. If the season is somewhat showery, or if one is

willing to take the trouble to water and shade the young plants,

ordinary layers--that is, plants that have grown naturally in the open

ground--will answer almost as well as those that have been rooted in

pots. The fact that they do not cost half as much is also in their

favor.

The disposition to plant in summer or autumn is steadily increasing,

and the following reasons are good and substantial ones for the

practice. In our gardens and fields there are many crops that mature in

July, August, and September. The cultivation of these crops has

probably left the ground mellow, and in good condition for

strawberries. Instead of leaving this land idle, or a place for weeds

to grow and seed, it can be deeply forked or plowed, and enriched, as

has been explained. Even in July, potted plants may be bought, and

unless the ground is full of the larvae of the June beetle, or the

plants are treated with utter neglect, not one in a hundred will fail.

Say the plants cost us two and a half cents each by the time they are

planted, instead of one half to one cent as in the spring, is there not

a prospect of an equal or larger profit? A potted plant set out in

summer or early autumn, and allowed to make no runners, will yield at

least a pint of fruit; and usually these first berries are very large

and fine, bringing the best prices. Suppose, however, we are able to

obtain but ten cents a quart, you still have a margin of two and

one-half cents on each plant. Adding two cents to the cost of each

plant to cover the expense of cultivation, winter protection, spring

mulching, picking, etc., there still remains a profit of half a cent on

each plant. Supposing we have an acre containing 14,520 plants, our

estimate gives a profit of $72.60 for the first year. If we clear but a

quarter of a cent on each plant, we have a profit of $36.30. The

prospects are, however, that if we plant early in the summer, on rich

ground, and give good cultivation, our plants will yield more than a

pint each, and the fruit sell for more than ten cents a quart.

This estimate applies to the common market varieties raised with only

ordinary skill and success. Suppose, in contrast, one plants the large,

showy, high-flavored varieties, and is able to obtain from fifteen to

thirty cents per quart. The expenses in this case are no greater, while

the profits are very largely increased.

[Illustration: A Potted Plant]

Good potted plants can be bought for about $2.50 per 100, or $20 per

2,000. I do not think that they can be properly grown and sold at much

lower rates and afford a living profit. Freight and express charges are

a heavy item of expense, since the earth encasing the roots renders the

packages very heavy, and but comparatively few plants can be shipped in

one box. But, allowing for all expenses, I think it is evident that

people can obtain a fair profit from potted plants within eight or ten

months from the time of planting. Moreover, autumn-set plants start

with double vigor in early spring, and make a fine growth before the

hot, dry weather checks them; and the crop from them the second year

will be the very best that they are capable of producing. Two paying

crops are thus obtained within two years, and the cost of cultivation

the first year is slight, for the plants are set after the great

impulse of annual weed growth is past. With spring-set plants you get

but one crop in two years. The first year yields nothing unless plants

are sold, and yet the cultivation must be unceasing through May, June

and July, when Nature seems to give no little thought to the problem of

how many weeds can be grown to the square inch. If one wishes early

plants, he certainly should practice autumn planting, for a plant set

even in November will begin to make runners nearly a month earlier than

one set in spring.

Thus far we have looked at the subject from a business standpoint.

Those who wish plants for the home supply certainly should not hesitate

to furnish their gardens as early in the summer as possible. To wait

two years of our short lives for _strawberries_ because the plants are

a little cheaper in the spring is a phase of economy that suggests the

moon. Such self-denial in a good cause would be heroic.

If people will use a little forethought, they can practice summer and

autumn planting with double success, independently of the plant grower.

We have shown that there is no mystery in raising potted plants.

Moreover, in the hottest summers there are showery, cloudy days when

ordinary layer plants can be set with perfect safety. If the field or

garden bed is near where the layer plants are growing, the latter can

be taken up with earth clinging to their roots, and thus have all the

advantages of potted plants. Even under the Southern sun, hundreds of

acres are, in this manner, set annually in the vicinity of Charleston.

As the autumn grows cool and moist, layer plants can be obtained from a

distance and set out profitably in large quantities. The chief danger

in late planting results from the tendency of the plants to be thrown

out of the ground by the action of the frost, and a few varieties do

not seem sufficiently hardy to endure severe cold. I obviate this

difficulty by simply hoeing upon the plants two inches of earth, just

before the ground freezes in November or December. This winter covering

of soil enables me to plant with entire success at any time in the

fall--even late in November--instead of spring, when there is a rush of

work.

The earth is raked off the plants in March or April, as soon as severe

freezing weather is over; otherwise they would decay. Do not first put

manure on the plants and then cover with earth--cover with earth only.

Thus it will be seen that each period has its advantages, which will

vary with different seasons. If drought and heat come in early May,

spring-set plants may suffer badly. Again, periods in summer and autumn

may be so hot and dry that even potted plants can only be kept alive by

repeated waterings. My practice is to divide my plantings about equally

between summer, fall, and spring. I thus take no chances of failure.

Success with Small Fruits · 第 12 / 35 章