OUTLINE OF BASUTO HISTORY--LIFE OF MOSHESHUE--LETSIE--LEROTHOLI--THE
"PITSO"--PRINCIPAL CHIEFS--SCENERY--MANNER OF HERDING--NATURAL
FEATURES OF THE COUNTRY--BUSHMEN--RIVERS--WATERFALLS--"KHAPONG,"
OR UNSEEN FIRE--CLIMATE 1
CHAPTER II.
APPEARANCE OF BASUTO--ALBINOS--CHARACTER--NATIVE VILLAGES--HUTS--
MANNER OF BUILDING--MANNER OF LIVING--NATIVE DRESS--ORNAMENTS 21
CHAPTER III.
MANNER OF CULTIVATING THE SOIL--GRAIN--HARVEST--FOODS--DRINKS--MANNER
OF EATING--RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY--CONDITION OF COUNTRY--IMPORTS--
HORSES--PACK OXEN--NUMBER OF WIVES--STATUS OF WOMEN--"LETSIMA"--BASUTO
WOMEN--CHILDREN--SEASONS--MANNER OF COUNTING--RELIGIOUS CUSTOMS--
MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS--HEATHEN "SCHOOLS"--AMUSEMENTS 32
CHAPTER IV.
CHIEF WARS--THEIR CAUSES AND EFFECTS--MOROSI--DISARMAMENT
ACT--DEATH OF MOLAPO--INFLUENCE OF THE MISSIONARIES--COMPENSATION--
RESIGNATION OF COL. GRIFFETH--GENERAL GORDON--SIR MARSHALL
CLARKE--STATE OF BASUTOLAND FROM 1843 TO PRESENT TIME--MODE OF
GOVERNMENT--HUT TAX--EXPENDITURE--MISSION SOCIETIES 52
CHAPTER V.
THABA BOSIGO--CANNIBALS--THEIR MANNER OF CAPTURING AND DESTROYING
THEIR VICTIMS--MARK OF A CANNIBAL--"BAKUENA," OR THE PEOPLE OF THE
CROCODILE--SUPERSTITIONS--LAND TENURE 71
CHAPTER VI.
MARRIAGE CUSTOMS--DEATH CUSTOMS 80
CHAPTER VII.
BIRTH CUSTOMS--EDUCATION--INTELLECT--CHARACTER--NEWS CARRIERS 93
CHAPTER VIII.
NATIVE DOCTORS--RAIN MAKING--"THOKOLOSI," OR THE LITTLE DWARF--
"MOLOI"--MODE OF PREPARING FOR WAR--PROVERBS 102
CHAPTER IX.
BOERS AND BASUTO 111
CHAPTER X.
THE STORY OF TAKANE 118
CHAPTER XI.
HOW KHOSI CHOSE A WIFE 129
CHAPTER XII.
THE VILLAGE MAIDENS AND THE CANNIBAL 134
CHAPTER XIII.
MORONGOE, THE SNAKE 139
CHAPTER XIV.
THE SON CHIEF 144
CHAPTER XV.
HOW RA-MOLO BECAME A SNAKE 155
CHAPTER XVI.
LELIMO AND THE MAGIC CAP 159
CHAPTER XVII.
THE CHIEF AND THE TIGERS 163
CHAPTER XVIII.
THE MAID AND THE SNAKE LOVER 167
CHAPTER XIX.
THE FAMINE 172
Dedication.
_To T. L----._
DEAR ----
Some time ago, during a conversation about Basutoland, you suggested
that I should write an account of the country and its inhabitants, and
were kind enough to give me many valuable hints as to how I should
collect and arrange my information.
As you know, we came out to South Africa in January, 1891, and went up
to Basutoland in the following April.
We both liked the country from the first, and I soon became interested
in the people. To enable myself to understand them better, I began to
study the language, which I can now speak fairly well.
The fact of my husband being a Government official gave me many
opportunities of acquiring information, and, as we have been moved
about from one station to another, having had six "homes" in the ten
years of our sojourn there, I have naturally seen a considerable portion
of the country, and come in contact with many different specimens of the
Basuto race. I have made a practice of visiting the different villages,
and of seeing as much as possible of the inner life of the people, with
the result that I have at length put my impressions on paper, in the
hope that they may be found of some value to those who take an interest
in native habits and customs.
For the kind help and encouragement I have received from you, I am
deeply grateful, and hope you will allow me to dedicate to you this
small volume, which, without your aid, would never have been written.
* * * * *
To those who have most kindly helped me with information, I tender my
grateful thanks.
MINNIE MARTIN.
CHAPTER I.
OUTLINE OF BASUTO HISTORY--MOSHESHUE--LETSIE--LEROTHOLI--SCENERY--
CLIMATE.
Were I to attempt to give a complete history of the Basuto I should fail
utterly, for my own personal knowledge of South Africa only extends over
the last ten years. Although several books have been written on the
subject by missionaries, the Basuto as a nation do not seem capable of
giving one much reliable information beyond the time of Tokoana
Makhautha, the grandfather of Mosheshue.
Here and there through the country old men are to be found who possess
marvellous stores of knowledge, but how much it can be relied upon,
would be a question impossible to answer satisfactorily.
My readers will, I hope, therefore content themselves with a brief
sketch of Basuto history from about the middle of the eighteenth
century.
Tokoana Makhautha was chief at that time of a considerable tract of
country in and around Witsies' Hoek. He seems to have been a stern,
ambitious man, with little of the "milk of human kindness" in his
character.
He was succeeded by his son Mokhatchane, who, however, possessed little
power, and who, when his children were come to manhood, installed his
son Mopeli at Witsies' Hoek, while he himself followed the fortunes of
his favourite son, who as a youth bore the name of "Lepoko" (a quarrel),
because he was born during a time of strife, but who afterwards assumed
the name of Mosheshue.
From the time of his abdication old Mokhatchane seems to have led a more
or less retired life at Thaba Bosigo, though no doubt he exerted a
certain amount of influence over Mosheshue, and was treated with
considerable respect. Filial obedience is a very strong trait in all
Basutos.
Mosheshue began his "reign" by subduing one or two small tribes, and
with these and his original followers betook himself to an almost
impregnable mountain in the centre of the Lesuto, called Thaba Bosigo
(the Mountain of Night), where he built his village, fortifying it so as
to make it a perfectly secure stronghold. Here he established his
chieftainship, and, after various wars, reverses and successes,
conquered or dispersed all rivals, and soon succeeded in becoming
Paramount Chief of the greater part of Basutoland, or, as it ought more
correctly to be called, the Lesuto.
Mosheshue was possessed of great ambition, singular courage, and
firmness; but acts of brutality or injustice have never been coupled
with his name. Judging from all accounts, he seems to have been a bright
exception to the chiefs of that time. His ambition was to rule the
Lesuto as its undisputed Sovereign, and he saw that to do so he must win
not only men's obedience, but their confidence and respect. He was a man
of commanding appearance and very great intelligence. He taught his
people not only to respect but also to love him.
During the greater part of his reign there were constant fights with
various tribes, such as the Batlokua, the Amalubi, the Baputi, etc., but
one by one they gathered under his sway, and were ruled wisely and with
wonderful justice and skill. He is still looked upon as the "Great
Father" ('Ntate Mogholo) of his people, and the most sacred form of oath
is that which swears "truly by Mosheshue."
It was while he was yet in the prime of life that the first
missionaries, MM. Eugene Casalis, Arbousset and Gosselin, entered the
Lesuto, in 1833. M. Casalis, in his book, "My Life in Basutoland,"
describes his introduction to Mosheshue (who he considers must have been
then about forty-five), his wizened old father, Mokhatchane, and his
favourite wife, a woman with a calm, happy face, and the manners of a
lady, and between whom and her lord existed a very strong bond of love.
But chiefly M. Casalis was struck with Mosheshue, whom he describes as
a man with a "majestic and benevolent look, a profile much more aquiline
than that of most of his subjects, a well-developed forehead, and eyes
full of intelligence and softness."
Mosheshue died in 1880, and was succeeded by his eldest son Letsie, a
man of a cruel, crafty nature, who held his people forcibly to their
allegiance, threatening, "smelling out," and in many cases actually
torturing those who showed signs of rebellion. Strange to say, shortly
before his death, he expressed a wish to become a Christian, but died
before being baptized, in the spring of 1892, and was buried with great
pomp and ceremony on the top of Thaba Bosigo, the burial-place of the
great chiefs. His son, Lerotholi, then became the Paramount Chief.
Lerotholi must be now about fifty years of age. He is a big, stout man,
not nearly so pleasing or attractive in appearance as some of the other
chiefs, but by no means devoid of intelligence, and at times can be
extremely polite and agreeable. As a boy, he was not allowed to share
the educational advantages of his brothers, and was for a time kept in
the mountains, in charge of his father's cattle; consequently he can
neither read nor write, but he has considerable natural ability, and is
quick to penetrate the right and wrong of the cases brought up to him
for judgment. Unfortunately, he inherits some of his father's cruel and
crafty qualities, and is much feared by his people, but he has a
wholesome respect for his Sovereign, and that Sovereign's
representative, the Resident Commissioner. Yet, with such a nature as
his, I should think the greatest tact and patience are necessary. He
has, however, proved himself undoubtedly loyal, as have almost all the
other chiefs, and, in fact, the whole nation; but how much is due to
their own "good hearts," and how much to the tactful way in which they
were handled, added to their hatred of the Dutch, I leave others to
unravel.
Lerotholi is, of course, a polygamist, but then almost, if not all, the
chiefs are the proud possessors of more than one wife, though none would
dare to support an establishment as large as his, even if they could
afford to do so.
He lives at Matsyeng, the headquarters of the Paramount Chief, situated
a short distance from Maseru, which latter place is the headquarters of
the Government. Near here is held the annual "Pitso" or Parliament, to
which all the chiefs, the headmen and thousands of less exalted
personages flock. This Pitso is "called" by the Resident Commissioner,
who presides over the whole proceeding, surrounded by his staff, and all
the Assistant Commissioners from the separate districts. The laws which
have been drawn up or altered during the past year are then read out to
the people, and receive the approval of the chiefs. There is naturally a
good deal of discussion, but the people quite acknowledge British rule,
and know that when a law is made they must obey it, though, if any real
objection is brought forward, it always receives due attention.
At the present time the principal chiefs under Lerotholi are Jonathan,
Joel, Mama, Letsie (Lerotholi's son and heir-apparent), 'Nquebe and
Griffeth. The latter is a younger and favourite son of the Paramount
Chief. Jonathan and Joel are sons of Molapo, and cousins of Lerotholi.
They are both men of considerable ability, Jonathan in particular being
most polished and well educated.
The Lesuto, or as it is more commonly called, Basutoland, is also called
the Switzerland of South Africa, a name well suited to such a
mountainous country. To the big busy world it is a comparatively unknown
land, but to those who have seen its wild, rugged beauty, it is a land
of great attraction. It has an area of about 10,000 square miles, with a
population of nearly 300,000, of whom only about 500 are European. The
country itself is extremely mountainous, almost entirely destitute of
trees, save at the various magistracies and mission and trading
stations, and at some of the larger and better-class villages.
Government gives a considerable sum yearly to be spent in trees, which
are distributed through the country, with a view to encouraging the
natives to raise timber. This is by no means difficult, as the Basutos
are only too ready to plant anything and everything likely to be useful,
either for food or in any other capacity.
The scenery of Basutoland is rugged and grand, with a beauty quite its
own, and unlike any other part of South Africa I have seen. As you enter
from the Orange River Colony, you see enormous rocks and "kopjes"
jutting up here and there all around you, while every now and then up
rises a majestic mountain, as a rule with table-land on the summit;
below lie fertile valleys and more or less (generally less) level
plains, and in the far distance, looking east, rises the beautiful range
of the Malutis, a spur of the Drackensberg Mountains, which separate
Basutoland from Natal.
This is one of the most picturesque ranges imaginable. One day it stands
out clear and sharp, every ravine visible to the naked eye, the next it
is dim, distant, and to all appearances devoid of ravines or precipices;
then again it is capable of most varied tints, from pearly grey, dim and
shadowy, to deep, rich, glowing purple, in the sun's setting rays. In
the winter the Malutis are nearly always covered with snow, which
greatly adds to the beauty of the scenery, but renders it most unsafe
to travel. Often dense fogs come down without any warning, making it
impossible to see even a yard in front of one. Woe betide the hardy
traveller who attempts to continue his journey at such a time! It is
almost certain death.
The population on these mountains is very small, and consists chiefly of
the herds at the cattle posts, with an isolated village here and there.
These herds are generally youths and boys, whose duty it is to care for
the cattle and sheep, sent up from the different villages in the
"plains" for the sake of the rich pasture to be found in the valleys and
on the table-lands of these mountains. Hither every autumn are brought
all the animals that can be spared from the lower and more barren lands,
to winter and escape the semi-starvation, and often death, which await
their less fortunate fellows, whose fate it is to remain at the
homesteads below. It is quite a picturesque scene to see one of these
cavalcades start. The herd boys pack up enough meal, salt, mealies and
Kaffir corn to last for their own use through the winter, their only
other food being the flesh of any beast or bird they can manage to kill
with their sticks aided by their dogs, or the carcase of any of the
flock which dies or comes to an untimely end. When the provisions are
ready, they are slung on the backs of several pack oxen, the younger
boys taking charge of them, a boy to each ox, which they hold by a
leather or grass rope converted into reins by being passed through the
poor animal's nose and both ends tied together, making a loop long
enough to pass over his horns on to his neck. All the guiding is done by
hitting the horns. The older herds then take up their musical
instruments, which they begin to play, leading the way, followed by all
the flock, and accompanied by several dogs. The pack oxen and boys bring
up the rear. In this way they journey to the particular spot chosen by
their particular chief, and here they remain till summer comes, when
they return to their homes in the same manner as they set out. They
never hurry; the animals graze as they go, finding abundant pasture by
the way.
As I said before, the country is almost destitute of trees now, though
it evidently was well wooded at one time. The soil is rich and fertile,
the crops sown by the Basuto in the most happy-go-lucky style yielding
splendid returns as a rule, and, where European care and skill have been
expended, richly repaying the owner.
The mountains in the western part of the country, which stand up in
solitary state, like great giants guarding their land, are for the most
part flat topped, with splendid pasture on the table-land. They are
wonderfully alike in size and shape, fairly easy of ascent near the
bottom, steep and rocky, often precipitous near the top. A few of these
mountains are conical in shape, and one or two are most grotesque.
Scattered all over the face of the country are numbers of enormous rocks
of every conceivable shape, sometimes lying in solitary state, at other
places grouped in twos and threes side by side, and yet again lying one
on the top of the other, often the larger one on top. This at a distance
presents an appearance somewhat like a badly-shaped mushroom.
At Tsikoani, where Chief Jonathan Molapo lives, there is an enormous
natural table, constructed out of three great rocks. At the back of the
village rises a steep mountain, almost precipitous on three sides. In
this are several caves, one of which extends for a considerable
distance, following as it were the outline of the mountain, then
plunging recklessly through it, emerging at length upon the farther
side. It is in most places of great height, but there are two extremely
narrow parts, like tiny passages, into large reception halls. In one of
these caves there are, on the roof, gigantic fossilized footprints,
which at first were supposed to be those of some enormous bird. This
greatly exercised people's minds, for how, they argued, could a bird
stand with head and body suspended downwards. However, it has now been
proved that they are the footprints of a prehistoric lizard, and that
formerly the rock must have been in an almost upright position. A
portion of this rock was hewn out and sent to the last Kimberley
Exhibition, whence it found its way to the Bloemfontein Museum, where, I
believe, it now lies.
Beyond Tsikoani there lay, until quite recently, the trunk of a fossil
tree, about ten feet in length and over two feet in diameter. When it
was discovered the European population of Leribe (in which district it
was found) were naturally much interested, and went in small parties on
several occasions to visit the spot, carrying away small pieces of the
tree as souvenirs. The Basuto could not understand these visits--their
suspicions were aroused--"Could this stone contain some form of
witchcraft, or was there unknown wealth hidden within it?" Not being
able to solve the mystery, they destroyed the tree.
From the curious shape of many of the large rocks, and from the
formation of the "kopjes," one is led to believe that in former ages the
country must have been subject to great volcanic disturbances. To many
people, I should think the study of the various fossils and physical
features of the country would prove deeply interesting; even to watch
the changes caused in a few years by the floods, which turn tiny streams
into deep dongas, and wash away one landmark here and another there, is
of no small interest.
The river-beds are rocky at and near their sources, gradually becoming
sandy as they increase in size, with here and there rocky beds of a
basaltic appearance, continuing for perhaps a few hundred yards at most.
On the banks and in the coarser sandy beds are to be found beautifully
transparent crystals, sometimes of great size, also agates, and many and
varied beautifully coloured and polished stones.
In dry weather all the larger rivers in Basutoland are sluggish, calm
tracts of water, the smaller streams mere silvery trickles, bubbling
happily in and out amongst the stones on their course, but they all rise
rapidly, and in an almost incredibly short time become roaring torrents,
most dangerous, nay even impossible to ford. Both to see and hear a
river "coming down" is a thing never to be forgotten. The roar of the
first big volume of water as it comes is not a pleasant sound to the
traveller crossing "the drift," the sight still less pleasant if he is
not already across. There are no bridges in Basutoland, and many of the
drifts are steep and unpleasant, even in fine weather, when there is
only a normal quantity of water in the river.
In the time of the old chief Molapo, women invariably went to the top of
Leribe Mountain, a large table-land, to dig for clay with which to
plaster their huts. Upon one occasion they found some pretty stones,
which they gave as playthings to their children. Some Europeans
happening to see these stones, at once recognised that they were
diamonds of considerable value, and endeavoured to buy them (one was
reported to be "as large as a big man's thumb"), but Molapo, hearing of
it, ordered the stones to be returned to the place where they were found
and re-buried in the clay; nor would he, in future, allow any one to
revisit that spot. In order to keep a constant watch upon the place, he
had a village built close by, whose inhabitants were to inform him of
any one attempting to disobey his commands. The village is still there,
and the spot is guarded as jealously as ever. Very few people know of
this, and I do not suppose that more than two Europeans could find the
place where those diamonds lie buried. The Basuto have such a dread of
their country becoming overrun with white men that they most jealously
guard its wealth. The land is theirs, they say. If the white man thinks
it has gold and diamonds he will take it from them.
This is not the only spot in the country upon which a constant watch is
kept. There is gold quartz to be found in some of the river beds, and
they are guarded. There are reefs here and there through the western
part of Basutoland which certainly indicate gold, and they, too, are
guarded. A friend of mine one day, in walking up a hill, picked up a
piece of quartz and took it home to show her husband. The next day she
was politely asked by the chief of the district why she had been picking
up his stones, and would she be so kind as not to take any more from
that spot. It was, of course, very politely put, but it showed how much
the chief knew, and that he dreaded that knowledge being carried out of
the country.
In addition to the above, Basutoland also boasts of some very good coal,
both in the north and in the Mohale's Hoek district in the south; but,
though these mines have been worked to a certain extent for local
consumption, the chiefs have now put a stop to further workings. The
native brass and iron, too, is fairly good, and there is excellent clay
for pottery purposes.
Beyond Chief Khabo's village, in the Leribe district, there is a cave on
the sides of which a salty deposit is formed, which, in former days, the
buck came to lick, and which the goats and sheep greatly appreciate now.
Inside the cave are some Bushman paintings of the usual type, while
outside, near the entrance, are some traps made by the Bushmen to catch
buck. These traps are circular depressions in the ground, about ten feet
in diameter. One wonders how such tiny people could have made them.
Originally they were of considerable depth, and were covered over with
bushes. The victims caught in these traps were chiefly eland,
hartebeeste, and springbok. There are Bushman caves in various parts of
Basutoland, especially in the Quthing district, but in most of them the
paintings have become rather indistinct, and in some cases have been
almost entirely obliterated by mischievous little herd boys. The scenes,
as a rule, represent extremely minute Bushmen hunting and capturing
gigantic elands. Occasionally a fight is depicted, in which huge Kaffir
warriors are fleeing in confusion before their triumphant pixie-like
foes.
There are now only about half-a-dozen survivors of the Bushman race in
Basutoland, and they no longer live by themselves, but with the Basuto,
who treat them kindly and quite as members of their own families, though
the term "Bushman," or, as it is in Sesuto, "Baroa" (literally the
yellow people), is still one of contempt.
They are funny little stunted creatures, very yellow in colour, with
high cheek-bones, small bright eyes, and a meagre quantity of hair on
their heads, each woolly curl being quite separate and apart from the
next, with the scalp plainly visible all round.
In addition to its other many attractions, Basutoland possesses some
really beautiful waterfalls, the three largest being the far-famed
Malutsunyane, the Telle, and the Ketane Falls. The Telle Falls are
almost unknown, but quite as high as, if not higher than, the
Malutsunyane. They lie in the Quthing district, close to the Herschel
border. The other two falls are in the Maluti Mountains, about the
centre of Basutoland. To reach them is not easy, consequently the number
of adventurers keen enough to face the discomforts and difficulties is
small. Of course the rainy season is the best for seeing the falls to
the fullest advantage, as the volume of water is large and the effect
much finer (on a bright day) than during the dry season; but there is
naturally more discomfort in travelling, and one's journey, both going
and coming, may be considerably prolonged by the state of the rivers,
spruits and dongas, not to mention the slippery state of the path down
the mountain sides. Of course, the only way (apart from "Shanks's pony")
is to ride, taking a packhorse or two (according to the number of your
party), well laden with provisions, tents, and the necessary amount of
clothing. The Malutsunyane Falls are 630 ft.; the Telle, I fancy, have
only once been "sized up," and, if I remember rightly, were estimated to
be about 650 ft. in height. The Ketane is the smallest, but the most
beautiful of the three in its surroundings. The Basuto believe that in
the big pool at the foot of each falls lives a sacred reptile, somewhat
resembling a snake, with a head like a sheep. It is the spirit of the
waters, and is always attended by a rainbow.
The largest river in Basutoland is the Sinkou, or Orange River, which
rises in the Malutis and passes through the southern districts, forming
the border between Herschel and the Orange River Colony. There are few
rivers more beautiful than the Sinkou, running as it does down deep
ravines, twisting in and out, now round this kopje, now round that,
broadening here to considerable proportions, flowing so calmly, so
silently as almost to resemble still water, and anon rushing and roaring
through some deep, narrow defile, lashing itself in masses of white foam
against the black rocks which jut up here and there, as if angry with
them for interrupting its erstwhile quiet flow. There are parts where
the water is of considerable depth, and one or two places (formerly the
abodes of "sea cows") which are many fathoms deep. Fish are plentiful,
and there are some delightful reaches on which to sail one's boat. There
are many rivers in various parts of the country, some fair-sized, some
merely what in Scotland we would term "a burn," but none so beautiful as
the Sinkou.
Basutoland abound in deep kloofs, or ravines, the steep sides of which
are often covered with short stunted bushes and huge boulders, and at
the bottom, in fine weather, warbles a tiny silver stream, which, after
a thunderstorm, or in the rainy season, is converted into a brown,
muddy torrent, carrying everything pell-mell before it.
At Butha-Buthe, in the North, there is a piece of swampy ground which,
to the ordinary observer, merely looks like a good place for ducks and
frogs, yet, to the native inhabitants of the district, it is more or
less sacred ground, as one spot there is inhabited by a spirit. Some
years ago, without any apparent reason, smoke was seen issuing from this
"Khapong," as it is called. No one had set it alight; no sign of human
interference could be found, nor did the ground consume away, yet, night
and day, through rain and sunshine, for three whole months, this streak
of smoke was seen to arise from the selfsame spot, with never even the
smallest tongue of flame to be seen; consequently it came to be regarded
as a spot sacred to the Spirit of Maternity, and hither, from time to
time, come old and young with offerings of beadwork, money, food, dolls,
etc., hoping thus to propitiate the spirit within, and to receive a
favourable answer to their prayers.
Once, while we were stationed at Butha-Buthe, there was great excitement
amongst the people, for the streak of smoke was again seen slowly
ascending skywards. It was a pouring wet day, when one would have found
it impossible to light a fire out of doors, yet the rain had apparently
no effect on this mysterious fire.
My servants called me to look, and there, sure enough, it was--a thin
grey streak of smoke steadily mounting towards the clouds, but on this
occasion it did not continue for more than a few hours, during which
time it was far too wet for me to venture down to investigate the spot.
Afterwards I thoroughly searched the place, but, beyond seeing a small
strip of black, peat-like soil on the edge of a small sluit, and finding
money, bangles, beads, and clay dolls laid underneath a projecting piece
of the bank, I saw nothing. There was absolutely _no_ trace of a fire.
Some of the dolls, very primitive in shape, had evidently been lying
there for years. There are several similar spots in various other parts
of the country.
The climate of Basutoland is said to be the healthiest in South Africa.
It certainly is good. The air is delightfully rare and pure, and in most
parts very bracing, and the whole country lies very high, no part of it
being, I believe, lower than 4,000 ft, while many of the stations are
built at a height of from 5,000 ft. to 6,000 ft, the highest peak in the
mountains reaching to a little over 10,000 ft. There are, however, great
extremes of heat and cold, which must be somewhat trying to delicate
constitutions, and the high altitude is more or less to blame, I fancy,
for the numbers of nervous complaints amongst the European population.
In the summer, which lasts from November to March, there are frequent
gales, the winds in early summer being nearly always hot and dry,
scorching the skin, and making the housewife's life a burden to her, by
reason of the dust which _will_ penetrate into every corner of her
rooms. The heat is often very great, the thermometer rarely falling
below 88° F. in the shade in the day, and not infrequently rising to
103° F.; while in winter it is almost equally cold, the mountains being
often white with snow, which falls also on the lowlands, though it
rarely lies there for more than a few hours. The winds at these times
generally elect to blow off the mountains, and are so piercingly cold
that it is extremely difficult to keep warm, but it is a most healthy
and bracing cold. In spring and early summer the hailstorms do great
damage to the early crops, and the thunderstorms all through the hot
weather are very severe, the lightning fatalities being by no means
infrequent.