CHAPTER XIII

AN OPIUM DEN IN SHANGHAI

THERE are two Shanghais. New Shanghai is under the control of three

Western powers. Over one section of it floats the French Tricolour; over

another part waves the Stars and Stripes of the United States; above the

third flies the Union Jack. The Chinese who live in New Shanghai are

more or less Europeanised; they speak “pidgen” English or a quaint

burlesque French. They adapt themselves to their pale neighbours—in

many ways, I have eaten in Shanghai with a Chinaman who was deft in his

use of knife and fork. The opium “joints” of New Shanghai are not

typical Chinese opium houses any more than if they were in “China-town”

in San Francisco or in Melbourne. They are so modified for the

convenience of their European habitués that, at the most, they are but

half Mongolian.

In Old Shanghai it is all very different. Drive a few miles—a very

few—from the luxurious European Club; leave your carriage when you come

to a bamboo bridge it may not cross; pass over that bridge; go through

the gate-way of the old city wall; and you are in China!—real

China!—old China, where ancient customs hold their own; where nothing

changes. You pass through that gate by sufferance. Don’t swagger down

those dirty narrow streets. The flag that tops your consulate casts no

protecting shadow here.

At night, Old Shanghai is shut to Europeans. But we went there one

night, armed with especial permission, and escorted by three

white-button mandarins; and, perhaps I ought to add, forbidden by our

Consul.

[Illustration: CITY WALL, OLD SHANGHAI. _Page 112._]

We saw several opium dens. They varied in their degrees of luxury, but

they were all alike in being vastly unlike anything we had seen in New

Shanghai or in Occidental “China-towns.”

In the humblest of the “joints” we visited in Old Shanghai, on trestles,

some made of wood, some made of bamboo, lay long boards; every alternate

trestle was higher than those next it; this made an incline. The smokers

lay on these inclined boards, their heads at the higher ends, their feet

at the lower; under their heads were hard, small, native pillows; and

between each two smokers was placed a small bamboo cabinet that held the

_impedimenta_ of their dissipation.

Is opium smoking a dissipation? Yes—if it is smoked to excess, and at

the wrong time. But I have lived too long in the East not to feel that

opium has a place—an essential place—in the economy of the Orient.

That we should wean Asia from the use of opium is impossible; that we

are trying, is preposterous; worst of all, we are making ourselves

ridiculous.

The opium den was quiet and decorous. The air was heavy with a peculiar,

pleasant sweetness. The smokers were in different stages of the opium

pleasure; but they were all well-behaved and inoffensive. Would they

have been so had whisky been the form of their indulgence? In a few

hours they would resume the heavy burdens of their poverty-stricken

lives, rested but not enervated. Gin would not have left them so

unharmed!

The outer room, through which we had passed, was of course devoted to

gambling. The Chinaman stimulates his intellect as much by his incessant

playing of intricate games of chance as he stupefies it by his frequent

use of opium.

I have been asked if Chinese women smoke. I believe that they do,—very

much as European women smoke. Their smoking of opium is by no means

universal, nor do they smoke it to excess, nor in its strength. When the

feet of the small-footed women are being bound, I believe that they use

opium rather more than at other times.

That the national use of opium has not dulled the national intellect

must be the testimony of every truthful European who has ever tried to

get the better, in a bargain, of a Chinese man, woman, or child. That

the national use of opium has undermined the national health surely will

be said by no one who has gone through China with eyes half open.

As we drove home, I felt that we had in no way been “slumming”; but

rather that we had been peeping at the interesting real life of a

wonderful people.

Our Consul gave us marrow-bones for supper, and said to me—“You will

burrow once too often into the bowels of the Orient”; but I never did.

I know nothing of the great international issues staked upon England’s

ultimate answer to the Opium Question. I am too lazy (or too wise) to

attempt the quick solving of a problem that has baffled many a wise man

throughout a lifetime. But I know something of the human interests at

stake; and humanitarianism is so much more than internationalism that I

venture to speak _re_ this well-worn subject.

Opium has been a great blessing to Asia, and is so now. True, it is

sometimes used to excess in the East. Here, I have known Englishmen to

make themselves very ill by over-consumption of roast beef and Yorkshire

pudding; Italian noblemen have grown gross from repeated over-feeds of

macaroni; Italian peasants have become disgustingly fat on black bread

and garlic.

Some Chinamen, some Indians, use too much opium; but (we must bear in

mind the enormous populations of both countries) they are the

exceptions, not the rule. The people of the East are naturally moderate.

They are languid, and languor does nothing to excess. In India, in the

Straits Settlements, or in China, a coolie goes bravely to work, after

an enormous meal of rice and curry. Curry is a positive stimulant, a

non-intoxicant stimulant! After some hours the coolie feels a little

less like work; but his work is not half done. He thrusts his hand into

one of the many mysterious recesses of his dirty loin cloth; he draws

forth a yellowish ball, about the size of a wickedly big pill. It is not

opium, but it contains opium. He thrusts it beneath his tongue. He does

not grow sleepy; he does not grow momentarily less intelligent; but his

work grows lighter. His evening-rice does not seem so sadly far off. The

opium ball (ball tinged with opium, to speak correctly rather than

colloquially)—the opium ball has made his flesh as strong temporarily

as his patient Oriental spirit is always willing. The effect of the

opium passes away. His work is over. His curry and rice is ready. He

goes home to it, and to his gentle, meek, contented womankind, no jot

the worse for his little indulgence. Had he worked on with tingling

nerves, and trembling limbs, and craving stomach, he would have been in

a miserable state physically.

Again, I acknowledge that the people of the East sometimes take opium in

injurious and disgraceful quantities, but they are an infinitesimal

proportion. Here in Europe people occasionally select the pleasantest

means of committing suicide, and lull themselves into eternal slumber

with chloroform. For their silly sakes (I might say brave sakes, did I

care to deal with two controversies at once)—for their sakes shall we

do away with chloroform, and make the operating rooms of our hospitals

the hells of horrors they were sixty years ago?

It has often been in my heart to advocate the moderate use of opium for

our own working classes. I have not done so for three reasons. In the

first place I am an unknown woman with an unestablished pen. Who would

listen to me merely because I love Asia and wish Europe well? Secondly,

I am a moral coward; I shrink from the contumely of my own people. Last

of all, and most of all, I doubt if our poor could be so trusted, as can

the people of the Orient, with a drug which is blessing or curse as it

is wisely or unwisely used. Self-denial has become by long usage second

nature to the children of the East. Our Anglo-Saxon poor drain their

pewter mugs to the dregs.

The other day at the British Museum, when searching for exact and

reliable information on a nice point of Oriental law, I had the

misfortune to come across a maudlin book written by a missionary. I

condemn the book, not because of its author’s calling, but because it

was written in a narrow spirit, and in dense ignorance of the subject

embodied in its title. Among other things calculated to rather startle

one who knows the East and loves it, the writer gravely proposed that we

should subjugate “wicked China” by influencing the Chinese to a much

larger use of opium. In Europe the victims of nameless crimes are

sometimes drugged into drunken acquiescence; but I am sure that most

Christians would advocate a conversion of the heathen more intelligently

voluntary on the part of the converts.

Let us speak the truth about Asia or be silent; let us be just to India

at least. There are many subjects vitally important to Her Majesty’s

brown people, subjects intimately connected with their home lives and

their physical well-being, of which most of us know nothing. If we are

too indolent or too indifferent to inform ourselves on those subjects in

the only adequate way—I mean by a long, studious, and sympathetic

residence in India—why then, in the great name of humanity and the name

of Anglo-Saxon justice, let us leave bad enough alone.

There are two classes of men who should not be allowed to write, or at

all events to print. In our profession we always know that a company has

fallen upon very hard times indeed when His Majesty the stage manager is

cast for a part. There are analogous reasons and as strong why an editor

should never dip his pen into the ink-filled well save to write,

“Returned with thanks,” or “Please reduce this charming article from

three columns to one.”

_Re_ writing editors, I have said as much as I dare. “_Re_ writing”

missionaries, please let me speak. Why are they missionaries? What do

they as missionaries accomplish? I have not devoted enough time to

either question, nor have I asked those questions with enough sympathy,

to feel justified in answering. The nineteenth century must work out its

own salvation if it can, and the overplus of Anglo-Saxon population must

find relief and breathing room in many a foreign clime, and through the

channel of many a debatable occupation.

I am dumb before the mass of missionaries and the missionary question.

But against the missionaries who write, not narrow tracts, but

unnecessary and incorrect essays on Eastern peoples and customs, I now

and here wage war.

A missionary goes to Asia, perhaps to sacrifice his life, perhaps to

better his condition. In one thing at least he is sincere—in his

condemnation of the religions of the East. Of these religions he knows

nothing; but the missionary is not perhaps quite so unreasonable as he

appears, for he expects the “native” to accept Christianity as blindly

and as ignorantly as he himself condemns Buddhism, Confucianism, and a

hundred other creeds of which he does not even know the names. I do not

blame the missionary; we all think as keenly as we can, and our thought

is only limited by our circumstances and our capacity.

My quarrel with the missionary is a personal one. I protest against his

ignorance of modes Oriental being perpetuated in type.

I am reading now in the British Museum,—reading to increase my

knowledge of the hemisphere I love. I select from the catalogue thirteen

books. I go to my seat, the books are brought; twelve are written by

missionaries, and they abound in statements so preposterously inaccurate

that even my partial information balks at them.

The man who devotes his life to the study of microbes does not attempt,

when he retires from active practice, to crown his life’s work by

writing an exhaustive treatise on the Law of Evidence. A great Q.C.

rarely spends his old age in the authorship of a book on hip-disease. We

live in an age of specialists; but the missionary, at least the literary

missionary, is a man apart,—he deals in generalities, and they don’t

even glitter.

I came across a book the other day, or rather it came across me. It had

been written by a most estimable man, and it was a most wonderful and

ingenious jumble of lapidarian lore, of geological research, and of the

history of Christianity in Ceylon. It was a book supremely calculated to

exasperate an enthusiastic lapidarian who was indifferent to things

sacred; but then, of course, such a man requires exasperating. But it

occurred to me that it might be equally calculated to embarrass and

puzzle the devout reader who was more religiously minded than generally

well-informed.

I am not jibing at missionaries. Some of the most charming people that I

have met in India were missionaries; and though we radically differed in

much that was to them of the first importance, I found every cause to

respect their intelligence, their mentalities, and their lives.

I spent a good deal of time in the Leper Asylum at Subathu, and learned

a vast deal from the missionary in charge of it, and from his wife. What

a book of intense interest they could write!—for I am sure that they

have too much character to write about what they do not understand; I am

sure that they have too much literary good taste to make a heterogeneous

mixture of theology and irrelevant Orientalism. They both write well,

for I have had charming letters from them both.

But the literary missionary _per se_—the man who knows superficially

one thing and writes books about everything—he ought to be

extinguished.

When We Were Strolling Players in the East · 第 13 / 39 章