CHAPTER I.

[Illustration: Book Cover]

[Illustration: MAP SHOWING STATES, BOUNDARIES, AND RAILWAYS OF MEXICO.]

[Illustration]

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN

MEXICO

ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO

NORTHERN AND CENTRAL MEXICO, CAMPEACHEY, AND YUCATAN, WITH A

DESCRIPTION OF THE REPUBLICS OF CENTRAL AMERICA

AND OF THE NICARAGUA CANAL

BY

THOMAS W. KNOX

AUTHOR OF

"THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST" "IN SOUTH AMERICA" "IN RUSSIA"

"ON THE CONGO" AND "IN AUSTRALASIA" "THE YOUNG NIMRODS"

"THE VOYAGE OF THE 'VIVIAN'" ETC.

Illustrated

NEW YORK

HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE

1890

BY THOMAS W. KNOX.

* * * * *

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE FAR EAST. Five Volumes. Copiously Illustrated.

8vo, Cloth, $3.00 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume

complete in itself.

I. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO JAPAN AND CHINA.

II. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO SIAM AND JAVA. With

Descriptions of Cochin-China, Cambodia, Sumatra, and the Malay

Archipelago.

III. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO CEYLON AND INDIA. With

Descriptions of Borneo, the Philippine Islands, and Burmah.

IV. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY TO EGYPT AND PALESTINE.

V. ADVENTURES OF TWO YOUTHS IN A JOURNEY THROUGH AFRICA.

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN SOUTH AMERICA. Adventures of Two Youths in a

Journey through Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentine

Republic, and Chili; with Descriptions of Patagonia and Tierra del

Fuego, and Voyages upon the Amazon and La Plata Rivers. Copiously

Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00.

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN THE RUSSIAN EMPIRE. Adventures of Two Youths in a

Journey in European and Asiatic Russia, with Accounts of a Tour across

Siberia, Voyages on the Amoor, Volga, and other Rivers, a Visit to

Central Asia, Travels among the Exiles, and a Historical Sketch of the

Empire from its Foundation to the Present Time. Copiously Illustrated.

8vo, Cloth, $3.00.

THE BOY TRAVELLERS ON THE CONGO. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey

with Henry M. Stanley "Through the Dark Continent." Copiously

Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00.

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN AUSTRALASIA. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey

to the Sandwich, Marquesas, Society, Samoan, and Feejee Islands, and

through the Colonies of New Zealand, New South Wales, Queensland,

Victoria, Tasmania, and South Australia. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo,

Cloth, $3.00.

THE BOY TRAVELLERS IN MEXICO. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to

Northern and Central Mexico, Campeachey, and Yucatan, with a Description

of the Republics of Central America, and of the Nicaragua Canal.

Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00.

THE VOYAGE OF THE "VIVIAN" TO THE NORTH POLE AND BEYOND. Adventures of

Two Youths in the Open Polar Sea. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth,

$2.50.

HUNTING ADVENTURES ON LAND AND SEA. Two Volumes. Copiously Illustrated.

8vo, Cloth, $2.50 each. The volumes sold separately. Each volume

complete in itself.

I. THE YOUNG NIMRODS IN NORTH AMERICA.

II. THE YOUNG NIMRODS AROUND THE WORLD.

* * * * *

PUBLISHED BY HARPER & BROTHERS, NEW YORK.

_Any of the above volumes sent by mail, postage prepaid, to any part of

the United States or Canada, on receipt of the price._

* * * * *

Copyright, 1889, by HARPER & BROTHERS.--_All rights reserved._

PREFACE.

Until within the past few years, Mexico was a country not easily reached

from the principal cities of the United States, and our relations with

it were by no means intimate. Since the completion of the railway from

the frontier of Texas to the heart of the most northerly of the

Spanish-American republics, there has been a rapid development of

commercial and social relations between Mexico and the United States,

and the tide of travel from one country to the other is steadily

increasing year by year. These circumstances have led the author of "The

Boy Travellers" to believe that his young friends everywhere would

welcome a book describing the land of the Aztecs, its history and

resources, the manners and customs of its people, and the many curious

things to be seen, and adventures passed through, in a journey from one

end of that country to the other.

In this belief he sought the aid of his and their friends, Frank and

Fred, immediately after their return from Australasia. Ever ready to be

of service, the youths assented to his request to make a tour of the

Mexican republic, in company with their guide and mentor, Doctor

Bronson, and the result of their journey is set forth in the following

pages. It is confidently hoped that the narrative will be found in every

particular fully equal to any of its predecessors in the series to which

it belongs.

The methods on which the Boy Travellers have hitherto performed their

work have been adhered to in the present volume. In addition to his

personal acquaintance with Mexico and travels in that country, the

author has drawn upon the observations of those who have preceded and

followed him there. He has consulted books of history, travel, and

statistics in great number, has sought the best and most accurate maps,

and while his work was in progress he consulted many persons familiar

with Mexico, and was in frequent correspondence with gentlemen now

residing there. He has sought to bring the social, political, and

commercial history of the country down to the latest date, and to

present a truthful picture of the present status of our sister

republic. The result of his efforts he submits herewith to the judgment

of his readers.

Many of the works that have been consulted are named in the text, but it

has not been convenient to refer to all. Among those to which the author

is indebted may be mentioned the following: Bishop's "Old Mexico and her

Lost Provinces," Griffin's "Mexico of To-day," Haven's "Our Next-door

Neighbor," Charnay's "Ancient Cities of the New World," Squier's

"Nicaragua" and "Central America," Wells's "Honduras," Stephens's

"Travels in Central America, Chiapas, and Yucatan," Baldwin's "Ancient

America," Wilson's "Mexico and its Religions," Abbott's "Hernando

Cortez," Prescott's "Conquest of Mexico," Ober's "Travels in Mexico,"

Geiger's "Peep at Mexico," Gooch's "Face to Face with the Mexicans,"

Chevalier's "Mexique Ancien et Moderne," and the hand-books of Janvier,

Conkling, and Hamilton.

As in the other "Boy Traveller" volumes, the author is indebted to the

liberality of his publishers, Messrs. Harper & Brothers, for the use of

engravings that have appeared in previous publications relative to

Mexico and Central America, in addition to those specially prepared for

this book. As a result of their generosity, he has been enabled to add

greatly to the interest of the work, particularly to the younger portion

of his readers, for whom illustrations always have an especial charm.

T. W. K.

NEW YORK, _June_, 1889.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.--PLANS FOR THE JOURNEY.--TO

MEXICO BY RAIL.--BAGGAGE, AND BOOKS ON THE COUNTRY.--BRUSHING

UP THEIR KNOWLEDGE OF SPANISH.--WESTWARD FROM NEW YORK.--A

HALT AT ST. LOUIS.--SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS.--VISIT TO THE

ALAMO.--REMINISCENCES OF THE FALL OF THE ALAMO.--BATTLE OF

SAN JACINTO AND INDEPENDENCE OF TEXAS.--NOTES ON THE RAILWAYS

OF NORTHERN MEXICO.--OLD TEXAS AND MODERN

CHANGES.--"G. T. T."--PRESENT WEALTH OF THE STATE.--ARRIVAL

ON THE FRONTIER OF MEXICO. Page 1

CHAPTER II.

HOTELS ON THE FRONTIER.--ACCOMMODATIONS AT LAREDO.--SMUGGLING

OVER THE BORDER.--LAREDO AS A RAILWAY CENTRE.--THE RIO GRANDE

AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--RIVERS BENEATH THE SANDS.--ENTERING

MEXICAN TERRITORY.--EXAMINATIONS AT THE CUSTOM-HOUSE.--MEXICAN

TARIFFS.--BRIBERY AMONG OFFICIALS.--LEAVING NUEVO LAREDO.--A

DREARY PLAIN.--FELLOW-PASSENGERS WITH OUR FRIENDS.--A MEXICAN

IRISHMAN.--PEOPLE AT THE STATIONS.--ADOBE HOUSES; HOW THEY ARE

MADE.--THE LAND OF MAÑANA.--POCO TIEMPO AND QUIEN

SABE.--LAMPASAS.--MESA DE LOS CARTUJANOS.--PRODUCTS OF NUEVO

LEON.--SADDLE AND MITRE MOUNTAINS.--MONTEREY. 15

CHAPTER III.

THE AMERICAN INVASION OF TO-DAY.--MONTEREY AS A HEALTH RESORT;

ITS SITE AND SURROUNDINGS.--THE CATHEDRAL AND OTHER PUBLIC

BUILDINGS.--CAPTURE OF MONTEREY BY GENERAL TAYLOR.--SHORT

HISTORY OF THE MEXICAN WAR.--FROM CORPUS CHRISTI TO

MONTEREY.--THE ATTACK ON THE CITY.--CAPTURE OF THE FORTS AND

THE BISHOP'S PALACE.--FRANK RECITES A POEM.--LIEUT. U. S.

GRANT AND WHAT HE DID AT MONTEREY.--A STORY ABOUT JEFFERSON

DAVIS.--HOW JOHN PHENIX ESCAPED CASHIERING.--SIGHTS OF THE

CITY.--THE MARKET-PLACE AND WHAT WAS SEEN THERE.--FRUITS,

BIRDS, POTTERY, ETC.--IN A MONTEREY HOUSE.--A PALATIAL

RESIDENCE. 31

CHAPTER IV.

SOUTHWARD TO SALTILLO.--SANTA CATERINA.--REMARKABLE

CAVES.--SCENERY OF THE SIERRA MADRE.--WAY-SIDE ATTRACTIONS.--THE

CACTUS; ITS FLOWERS AND MANY VARIETIES.--SALTILLO.--THE

ALAMEDA.--MEXICAN CURRENCY.--THE BATTLE-FIELD OF BUENA VISTA.--BY

CARRIAGE AND SADDLE.--A NIGHT AT A HACIENDA.--MEXICAN

COOKERY.--TORTILLAS, PUCHERO, FRIJOLES, TAMALES, AND OTHER

EDIBLES.--HISTORY OF THE MEXICAN WAR FROM MONTEREY TO BUENA

VISTA.--5000 AMERICANS DEFEAT 20,000 MEXICANS.--DESCRIPTION OF

THE FIELD.--COTTON FACTORY AT SALTILLO.--COTTON MANUFACTURES

IN MEXICO. 48

CHAPTER V.

FROM SALTILLO TO JARAL.--A JOURNEY BY DILIGENCE.--PECULIARITIES

OF DILIGENCE TRAVEL.--BRIGANDAGE; HOW THE GOVERNMENT SUPPRESSED

IT.--ROBBERS TURNED INTO SOLDIERS.--STORIES OF BRIGANDS AND

THEIR WORK; THEIR TREATMENT OF PRISONERS.--A CASE OF

POLITENESS.--DINNER AT A WAY-SIDE INN.--CHILE CON

CARNE.--DESCRIPTION OF CHIHUAHUA.--THE SANTA EULALIA MINES;

ROMANTIC STORY OF THEIR DISCOVERY.--TORREON AND LERDO.--COTTON

IN TRANSIT.--STATISTICS OF COTTON IN MEXICO.--FRESNILLO.--

CALERA.--A BAD BREAKFAST.--ARRIVAL AT ZACATECAS.--LODGED IN AN

OLD CONVENT. 66

CHAPTER VI.

NAME, POPULATION, AND PECULIARITIES OF ZACATECAS.--THE

PILGRIMAGE CHAPEL.--A WEALTHY CATHEDRAL.--STREET SCENES.--MINES

OF ZACATECAS.--A DANGEROUS DESCENT.--THE PATIO PROCESS OF

REDUCING ORES.--TREADING ORE WITH MULES AND HORSES.--A SORRY

SIGHT.--THE MINERS; HOW THEY LIVE AND WORK.--STATISTICS OF

SILVER-MINING IN MEXICO.--ASTOUNDING CALCULATIONS.--FROM

ZACATECAS TO AGUAS CALIENTES.--FARM SCENES.--FARMING IN

MEXICO.--CONDITION OF LABORERS.--MEN AS BEASTS OF BURDEN.--AGUAS

CALIENTES.--A BEAUTIFUL CITY.--A PICTURESQUE POPULATION.--WOMEN

OF MEXICO. 85

CHAPTER VII.

SOUTHWARD AGAIN.--CROSSING A BARRANCA.--BARRANCAS IN

MEXICO.--LAGOS AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--LEON, THE MANUFACTURING

CITY OF MEXICO.--SILAO.--ARRIVAL AT GUANAJUATO.--A SILVER

CITY.--THE VALENCIANO MINE.--AN UNHEALTHY PLACE.--BAD

DRAINAGE.--A SYSTEM OF RESERVOIRS.--THE CASTILLO DEL

GRENADITAS.--AN INDIAN'S ARMOR.--EXPERT THIEVES.--STEALING A

GRINDSTONE.--MARKET SCENES.--HEADS OF SHEEP AND GOATS.--SCHOOLS

AT GUANAJUATO.--EDUCATION IN MEXICO.--DOWN IN THE RAYAS

MINE.--SIGHTS UNDERGROUND.--AN INDIAN WATER-CARRIER.--HOW A SKIN

IS TAKEN WHOLE FROM A PIG.--THE REDUCTION HACIENDA.--MR.

PARKMAN'S MACHINE.--QUERETARO.--THE HERCULES AND OTHER

COTTON-MILLS. 102

CHAPTER VIII.

AQUEDUCT AT QUERETARO.--THE RESULT OF A BANTER.--THE HILL OF

THE BELLS.--PLACE WHERE MAXIMILIAN WAS SHOT.--REVOLUTIONS IN

MEXICO.--FOREIGN INTERVENTION.--MAXIMILIAN BECOMES

EMPEROR.--THE "BLACK DECREE."--WITHDRAWAL OF FRENCH TROOPS

FROM MEXICO.--MAXIMILIAN'S DEFEAT, CAPTURE, AND DEATH.--HOW A

FRENCH NEWSPAPER CIRCUMVENTED THE LAWS.--PRONUNCIAMENTOS.--

JUAREZ AS PRESIDENT.--THE ABRAHAM LINCOLN OF MEXICO.--A

WONDERFUL PROPHECY.--PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF JUAREZ.--RELIGION

IN MEXICO.--FORMER POWER OF THE CATHOLIC CHURCH.--THE LAWS OF

THE REFORM.--PROTESTANT CHURCHES AND PROTESTANT WORK.--MISSIONARY

MARTYRS.--MURDER OF REV. J. L. STEPHENS.--RELIGIOUS AFFAIRS AT

PRESENT. 116

CHAPTER IX.

FROM QUERETARO TO THE CAPITAL.--PLAIN OF THE CAZADERO.--

TULA.--THE GREAT SPANISH DRAINAGE-CUT.--DISASTROUS INUNDATIONS

OF MEXICO CITY.--A PUZZLE FOR ENGINEERS.--ARRIVAL AT THE

CAPITAL.--HOTEL LIFE.--RESTAURANTS AND THE MODE OF LIVING.--

AMUSING STORIES OF HOTEL MANAGEMENT.--FONDAS AND FONDITAS.--

MEN FOR CHAMBER-MAIDS.--ALMUERZO.--A MORNING STROLL ALONG THE

STREETS.--WOMEN ON THEIR WAY TO MASS.--THE MANTILLA.--SELLERS

OF SACRED THINGS.--DEALERS IN LOTTERY TICKETS.--LOTTERIES RUN

BY GOVERNMENT.--ATTENDING A DRAWING.--HOW THE AFFAIR WAS

CONDUCTED.--FLOWER-SELLERS. 132

CHAPTER X.

THE CATHEDRAL OF MEXICO.--SITE OF THE AZTEC TEOCALLI.--HUMAN

SACRIFICES.--PANORAMA OF THE VALLEY OF MEXICO.--EXTENT AND

COST OF THE CATHEDRAL; CHAPELS AND ALTARS.--TOMB OF

ITURBIDE.--THE CAREER AND TRAGIC END OF ITURBIDE.--THE RICHEST

ALTAR IN THE WORLD.--GOLDEN CANDLESTICKS A MAN COULD NOT

LIFT.--THE AZTEC CALENDAR-STONE; ITS INTERESTING FEATURES;

INSCRIPTION ON THE STONE.--BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE AZTECS.--THE

TRIBE CALLED MEXICANS.--AZTEC LAWS AND CUSTOMS.--PREVALENCE OF

THE DEATH PENALTY.--AZTEC POSTING SYSTEM.--PICTURE-WRITING.--

FLOWER-SHOW IN THE ZOCALO.--A FASHIONABLE ASSEMBLAGE.--WONDERFUL

WORK IN FEATHERS. 147

CHAPTER XI.

LOST ARTS IN MEXICO.--GOLDSMITHS' WORK IN THE TIME OF

CORTEZ.--SILVER FILIGREE.--MODELLING IN WAX AND CLAY.--NATIVE

TASTE FOR MUSIC.--NATIONAL CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC.--MUSEUM

OF ANTIQUITIES.--THE SACRIFICIAL STONE.--SACRIFICES AMONG THE

ANCIENT MEXICANS.--GLADIATORIAL STONE.--A BRAVE SOLDIER.--

OBSIDIAN KNIVES AND RAZORS.--AZTEC METALLURGY.--STATUE OF THE

GOD OF WAR.--SHIELD AND CLOAK OF MONTEZUMA.--AZTEC WARFARE AND

DOMESTIC LIFE.--RELICS OF HIDALGO AND MAXIMILIAN.--MAX'S STATE

COACH.--NATIONAL PALACE.--HALL OF THE AMBASSADORS.--MEXICAN

PAINTINGS.--THE MONTE DE PIEDAD.--AN EXTENSIVE PAWN-SHOP.--

LOCKING UP MEN AS SECURITY.--FORMALITIES OF THE SALESROOM. 163

CHAPTER XII.

MEXICAN POLITENESS.--FREE GIFTS OF HOUSES AND OTHER

PROPERTY.--AWKWARD MISTAKES.--AN ENGLISHWOMAN'S DILEMMA, AND

HOW SHE GOT OUT OF IT.--UNCLE FREDDY AND THE GOVERNOR OF

ACAPULCO.--THE GREAT MARKET; SIGHTS AND SCENES THERE.--ON THE

CANAL.--EXTENSIVE LOCAL COMMERCE.--THE CHINAMPAS, OR FLOATING

GARDENS.--AN EXCURSION ON THE LAKES.--SANTA ANITA, A PLACE OF

RECREATION.--EXPERTS IN DIVING.--THE HILL OF ESTRELLA.--THE

FESTIVAL OF FIRE; PRESCOTT'S DESCRIPTION OF THE FEARFUL

CEREMONY.--FISHING IN THE LAKES.--THE AXOLOTL.--FISH OR

REPTILE?--FLIES' EGGS AS AN ARTICLE OF FOOD. 179

CHAPTER XIII.

COURTSHIP IN MEXICO.--"PLAYING THE BEAR."--LOVERS' TROUBLES.--A

SHORT ROAD TO MATRIMONY.--PRESENTS TO THE EXPECTANT BRIDE.--THE

MARRIAGE CEREMONY.--TEDIOUS PRELIMINARIES.--CIVIL AND RELIGIOUS

MARRIAGES.--DIFFERENCES OF MARRIAGE AMONG THE COMMON PEOPLE AND

THE UPPER CLASSES.--A HAND-BOOK FOR LOVERS.--FUNERALS; HOW THEY

ARE MANAGED.--CARDS OF CONDOLENCE.--CEMETERIES.--MONUMENT TO

AMERICAN SOLDIERS.--ANNUAL DEATH-RATE IN MEXICO CITY.--PREVALENT

DISEASES.--DOMESTIC SERVANTS; THEIR NUMBER, WAGES, AND MODE OF

LIFE.--A PECULIAR LAUNDRY SYSTEM. 198

CHAPTER XIV.

SCULPTURE AND PAINTING IN MEXICO.--NATIONAL SCHOOL OF THE

FINE ARTS.--BRIEF HISTORY OF MEXICAN ART.--CELEBRATED

PAINTINGS.--"LAS CASAS PROTECTING THE AZTECS."--"THE DEATH

OF ATALA."--HOW AN ARTIST MANAGED TO SELL A PICTURE.--FROM

ART TO PULQUERIAS.--THE NATIONAL BEVERAGE OF MEXICO.--THE

MAGUEY PLANT.--HOW PULQUE IS MADE.--COLLECTING THE SAP.--

FERMENTING AGUAMIEL.--DAILY CONSUMPTION OF PULQUE IN THE CITY

OF MEXICO.--MANAGEMENT OF THE SHOPS.--ROMANTIC HISTORY OF THE

INVENTION OF PULQUE.--MEXICAN POLICE-COURTS.--NOVEL MODE OF

TRYING CASES.--THE BELEM PRISON.--CATALOGUE OF OFFENCES AGAINST

THE LAW.--AN ADROIT THIEF.--RUNNING THE GANTLET. 212

CHAPTER XV.

THE PASEO DE LA REFORMA.--BRIGANDAGE NEAR THE CITY.--STATUE

OF CHARLES IV. OF SPAIN.--STATUE OF COLUMBUS.--A RELIC OF

MAXIMILIAN.--AQUEDUCTS FROM CHAPULTEPEC.--MONTEZUMA'S

TREE.--CHAPULTEPEC; ITS HEIGHT AND EXTENT.--MONTEZUMA'S

BATH.--THE PALACE.--"THE FEAST OF BELSHAZZAR."--NATIONAL

MILITARY COLLEGE.--MOLINO DEL REY.--GENERAL SCOTT'S ADVANCE

UPON MEXICO.--CAPTURE OF VERA CRUZ.--BATTLE OF CERRO

GORDO.--ENTERING THE VALLEY.--CONTRERAS AND CHURUBUSCO.--

FALL OF CHAPULTEPEC.--GENERAL SCOTT'S ENTRANCE INTO THE

CITY.--TREATY OF PEACE.--GENERAL GRANT ON THE MEXICAN WAR. 229

CHAPTER XVI.

THE NOCHE TRISTE TREE.--A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE CONQUEST OF

MEXICO.--DEPARTURE OF CORTEZ FROM CUBA.--HE LANDS IN

YUCATAN.--FOUNDING THE CITY OF VERA CRUZ.--DEFEATING THE

TLASCALANS.--ENTRANCE TO TENOCHTITLAN.--RECEPTION BY

MONTEZUMA.--RETURN TO THE COAST.--EXPULSION OF THE

SPANIARDS.--BESIEGING THE CITY WITH THE AID OF THE

TLASCALANS.--CAPTURE OF THE CITY, AND DEATH OF GUATEMOZIN.--

BEGINNING OF THE RULE OF THE VICEROYS.--THE CHURCH OF

GUADALUPE.--STORY OF THE MIRACULOUS APPARITION.--RELIGIOUS

AND POLITICAL HOLIDAY.--PILGRIMAGE TO GUADALUPE.--PENITENTES;

THEIR SELF-INFLICTED TORTURES. 248

CHAPTER XVII.

AREA AND INHABITANTS OF MEXICO.--CHARACTER OF THE

POPULATION.--INDIANS, EUROPEANS, AND MESTIZOS; THEIR

RESPECTIVE NUMBERS AND CHARACTERISTICS.--INCLINATIONS

OF THE MIXED RACES.--TENDENCIES OF EDUCATED INDIANS.--

PRESIDENT JUAREZ AS AN EXAMPLE.--HOW THE INDIANS LIVE.--

HOW THE SPANIARDS TOOK POSSESSION OF THE LAND.--CREOLES AND

THEIR ORIGIN.--THE MESTIZOS.--LEPEROS AND THEIR CHARACTER.--

ADROIT THIEVES.--PAWNING A CHURCH ORGAN.--THE LEPEROS AND THE

BRIGANDS.--CHURCH OF SAN DOMINGO.--SHORT HISTORY OF THE

INQUISITION IN MEXICO.--THE AUTO-DA-FÉ. 264

CHAPTER XVIII.

ASCENT OF POPOCATEPETL.--"THE WHITE WOMAN."--GEOGRAPHICAL

POSITION OF THE VOLCANO.--FIRST ASCENT BY WHITE MEN.--

AMECAMECA.--HIRING HORSES AND BUYING PROVISIONS.--EQUIPMENT

FOR THE EXCURSION.--DANGER OF ROBBERS.--PEONS AND VOLCANEROS.--

FIELDS OF BARLEY AND FORESTS OF PINE.--AN INDIAN TRADITION.--

FATE OF THE GIANT AND GIANTESS.--ICE FROM POPOCATEPETL FOR THE

CITY OF MEXICO.--SULPHUR FROM THE CRATER.--SLEEPING AT

TLAMACAS.--ARRIVAL AT LA CRUZ.--THE ASCENT ON FOOT.--

DIFFICULTIES OF CLIMBING IN THE RAREFIED AIR.--THE PICO DEL

FRAILE.--CAUGHT IN A CLOUD. 279

CHAPTER XIX.

THE ASCENT OF POPOCATEPETL CONTINUED.--LAST STEPS OF THE

UPWARD JOURNEY.--LOSS OF LIFE ON THE MOUNTAIN.--HOW THREE

INDIANS PERISHED.--THE CRATER OF THE VOLCANO.--HOW THE

SULPHUR-MINERS EXIST.--DANGERS OF THE CRATER.--THE

SOLFATARAS.--CAUGHT IN A STORM.--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.--

SCENES IN THE CRATER.--A RAPID DESCENT.--TOBOGGANING ON A

GRAND SCALE.--HOW THE SULPHUR-MINE ORIGINATED.--NO ERUPTION

IN SEVEN THOUSAND YEARS.--RETURN TO AMECAMECA.--EXPLORATION

OF THE SURROUNDING COUNTRY.--TOMBS AND THEIR CONTENTS.--

CURIOUS INSTANCE OF PRESERVATION.--MONTE SACRO.--"MODERN

ANTIQUITIES."--INDIANS WORSHIPPING THE VOLCANO.--EXPERIENCE

WITH A RATERO. 296

CHAPTER XX.

RAPACIOUS CARGADORES.--OLD BOOK-STORES IN THE PORTALES.--

PUBLIC SCHOOLS IN THE MEXICAN CAPITAL; THE PUPILS IN

ATTENDANCE.--THEATRES AND HOSPITALS.--A THEATRE SUPPORTING A

HOSPITAL.--THE BROTHERS OF CHARITY.--INSIDE THE THEATRES.--A

PERFORMANCE OF OPERA.--A MINOR THEATRE.--LISTENING TO A

MEXICAN PERFORMANCE.--BULL-FIGHTING IN MEXICO.--A

DISGRACEFUL SPORT.--ORIGIN OF THE BULL-FIGHT.--MARIONETTE

THEATRES.--THE PROCESSIONS.--MEXICAN LOVE FOR COCK-FIGHTING.--

COMMINGLING OF RELIGIOUS CEREMONIALS AND AMUSEMENTS.--THE

POSADA AND THE PASTORELA; THEIR PECULIARITIES.--KILLING JUDAS. 312

CHAPTER XXI.

EXCURSION TO TULA.--AN ANCIENT CITY OF THE TOLTECS.--CHURCH OF

THE TIME OF CORTEZ.--MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE TOLTECS.--

TOLTEC KINGS, COURTS, AND KNIGHTHOOD.--RUINS OF THE TEMPLE AND

PALACE.--JOURNEY TO MORELOS.--INTEROCEANIC RAILWAY.--MORELOS

AND HIS SERVICES TO MEXICO.--CUAUTLA AND ITS ATTRACTIONS.--

TERRIBLE RAILWAY ACCIDENT.--DOWN THE SOUTHERN SLOPE.--IN TIERRA

CALIENTE.--VISITING A SUGAR ESTATE.--TO YAUTEPEC AND

CUERNAVACA.--RIDE OVER THE MOUNTAINS.--SITUATION OF

CUERNAVACA.--OLD CHURCH AND PALACE OF CORTEZ.--A FORTUNATE

FRENCHMAN.--ROMANTIC INCIDENT IN THE CAPTURE OF CUERNAVACA. 328

CHAPTER XXII.

OVERLAND TO ACAPULCO.--SCENES OF LONG AGO.--PRESENT MODE OF

TRAVEL.--TEN DAYS ON HORSEBACK.--WAY-SIDE ACCOMMODATIONS.--

ACAPULCO'S HARBOR.--RETURN TO THE CAPITAL.--EXCURSION TO

GUADALAJARA.--DOCTOR BRONSON LEFT BEHIND.--OLD BRIDGES AND

THEIR HISTORY.--BATTLE BETWEEN HIDALGO AND THE SPANIARDS.--

STORIES ABOUT BRIGANDS.--SLAUGHTER BY PRIVATE ENTERPRISE.--

HOW SEÑOR PEREZ SECURED PEACE.--ATTRACTIONS OF GUADALAJARA.--

THE CATHEDRAL AND OTHER CHURCHES.--THE GREAT HOSPICIO.--WHAT

THE EARTHQUAKE DID.--PUBLIC SCHOOLS.--A DAY ON A CATTLE

HACIENDA.--A RODEO.--RETURN TO THE CAPITAL. 348

CHAPTER XXIII.

INTERVIEW WITH PRESIDENT DIAZ; HIS PERSONAL APPEARANCE AND

HISTORY.--A CHECKERED CAREER.--SAVED FROM THE SEA.--THE

FAITHFUL PURSER AND HIS REWARD.--CHARACTERISTICS OF DIAZ'S

ADMINISTRATION.--MADAME DIAZ.--A DIPLOMATIC MARRIAGE.--THE

ARMY AND NAVY OF MEXICO.--THE POSTAL SERVICE.--NEWSPAPERS

AND OTHER PUBLICATIONS.--PRINCIPAL WRITERS OF FICTION.--FROM

MEXICO TO PUEBLA.--HOW THE MEXICAN RAILWAY WAS BUILT.--

DIFFICULTIES OF ENGINEERING.--APIZACO.--THE CITY OF THE

ANGELS; ITS CATHEDRAL AND OTHER CURIOSITIES.--MANUFACTURES

OF PUEBLA.--BATTLE-FIELD OF CINCO DE MAYO. 364

CHAPTER XXIV.

FURTHER SIGHTS IN PUEBLA.--ECCLESIASTICAL BUILDINGS.--SCHOOLS,

HOSPITALS, ASYLUMS, AND OTHER PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS.--CHOLULA

AND ITS GREAT PYRAMID.--FIRST SIGHT OF THE PYRAMID; ITS

CHARACTER, SIZE, AND PECULIARITIES.--ANCIENT CHOLULA.--

MASSACRE OF INHABITANTS BY CORTEZ.--RUMORS OF BURIED

TREASURES.--HOW A CRAFTY PRIEST WAS FOILED.--VISIT TO

TLASCALA.--THE STATE LEGISLATURE IN SESSION.--BANNER CARRIED

BY CORTEZ.--FIRST CHRISTIAN CHURCH IN AMERICA.--ANCIENT

PULPIT AND BAPTISMAL FONT.--A REVERED SHRINE.--FROM

TLASCALA TO APIZACO AND ONWARD TOWARDS THE GULF. 380

CHAPTER XXV.

DOWN THE CUMBRES.--A MONSTER LOCOMOTIVE.--MALTRATA.--EL

BARRANCA DEL INFERNILLO.--IN THE TIERRA TEMPLADA.--PEAK

OF ORIZABA; HOW IT WAS ASCENDED.--AN OLD AND QUAINT TOWN.--

EXCURSIONS IN THE ENVIRONS OF ORIZABA.--FALLS OF THE RINCON

GRANDE.--MANUFACTURING INDUSTRIES--CERRO DEL BORREGO.--THE

MEXICAN ARMY ROUTED.--CORDOBA.--HOW TO RUN A COFFEE

PLANTATION.--BARRANCA OF METLAC.--PASO DEL MACHO.--TIERRA

CALIENTE.--DRY LANDS NEAR THE SEA-COAST.--VERA CRUZ.--

ZOPILOTES AND THEIR USES.--YELLOW FEVER; ITS SEASONS AND

PECULIARITIES.--NORTHERS AND THEIR BENEFITS. 394

CHAPTER XXVI.

THE ALAMEDA OF VERA CRUZ.--TROPICAL GROWTHS.--THE PALO DE

LECHE AND ITS PECULIARITIES.--A DANGEROUS PLANT.--FOUNTAINS

AND WATER-CARRIERS.--GOVERNOR'S PALACE.--BRIEF HISTORY OF

VERA CRUZ.--PILLAGED BY PIRATES AND CAPTURED IN WARS.--

FORTRESS OF SAN JUAN DE ULLOA.--HORRORS OF A MEXICAN

PRISON.--EXCURSION TO JALAPA.--THE NATIONAL BRIDGE.--CERRO

GORDO.--GENERAL SCOTT'S VICTORY.--JALAPA.--A CITY OF MISTS.--

STAPLE PRODUCTS OF THE REGION.--JALAP AND ITS QUALITIES.--

PRETTY WOMEN.--PECULIARITIES OF THE STREETS.--ORIZABA AND

PEROTE.--NEW RAILWAY CONNECTIONS.--TAMPICO AND ANTON

LIZARDO.--DELAYED BY A NORTHER.--DEPARTURE BY STEAMER.--

FAREWELL TO VERA CRUZ. 410

CHAPTER XXVII.

THE COATZACOALCOS RIVER.--ISTHMUS OF TEHUANTEPEC.--TEHUANTEPEC

RAILWAY AND SHIP-CANAL.--THE EADS SHIP-RAILWAY.--AN IDEA OF

CORTEZ.--PLANS OF CAPTAIN EADS.--A RAILWAY-CARRIAGE WITH 1200

WHEELS.--SHIPS CARRIED IN TANKS.--ENGINEERING AND OTHER FEATURES

OF THE SHIP-RAILWAY.--MAHOGANY TRADE.--FIFTEEN THOUSAND DOLLARS

FOR THREE LOGS.--FRONTERA AND TABASCO.--RUINS OF PALENQUE.--

LORILLARD CITY.--EXPLORATIONS BY STEPHENS AND CHARNAY.--PALACE

OF PALENQUE.--TEMPLE OF THE CROSS.--TEMPLE OF LORILLARD.--

REMARKABLE IDOL.--A REGION ABOUNDING IN RUINS.--REMAINS OF

MITLA.--PILLAR OF DEATH. 423

CHAPTER XXVIII.

"THE MYSTERIOUS CITY;" STORIES AND RUMORS CONCERNING IT.--

ACCOUNTS OF STEPHENS AND MORELET.--FATE OF TWO YOUNG

AMERICANS.--DON PEDRO VELASQUEZ.--CARMEN AND CAMPEACHY.--

UNDERGROUND CAVES.--HOW LOGWOOD IS GATHERED; ITS COMMERCIAL

IMPORTANCE.--THE QUEZAL AND ITS WONDERFUL PLUMAGE.--SNAKES

AND SNAKE STORIES.--TRAVELLERS' TALES.--PROGRESO AND

SISAL.--HOW THE YUCATAN RAILWAY WAS BUILT.--AGAVE SISALANA.--

DISCOVERY AND CONQUEST OF YUCATAN.--A FEROCIOUS POPULATION.--

REBELLIOUS INDIANS IN YUCATAN; HOW THEY TREAT VISITORS.--

TOWNS AND VILLAGES DEPOPULATED. 439

CHAPTER XXIX.

RAILWAY-STATION AT MERIDA.--PUBLIC CONVEYANCES.--THE

CALESA.--A RIDE THROUGH THE STREETS.--WHEN MERIDA WAS

FOUNDED.--PRACTICAL MODE OF DESIGNATING STREETS.--PUBLIC

BUILDINGS.--CASA MUNICIPAL.--DRESS AND MANNERS OF THE

PEOPLE.--INDIANS, SPANIARDS, AND MESTIZOS.--A CITY OF PRETTY

WOMEN.--CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MAYA RACE.--THE MESTIZO

QUARTER.--SCENES IN THE MARKET.--BREAKFASTING AT A MEDIO

RESTAURANT.--EUCHRE OR YUCCA.--USES OF THE YUCCA PLANT.--

GAMBLING IN YUCATAN.--LA LOTERIA; HOW IT IS PLAYED.--AMERICAN

COUNTERPART OF THE YUCATEO GAME.--A POPULAR ASSEMBLAGE. 454

CHAPTER XXX.

POTTERY AND HAMMOCK MARKETS.--HAMMOCKS IN YUCATAN; THEIR

GENERAL USE FOR SLEEPING PURPOSES.--YUCATEO SALUTATIONS.--AN

AWKWARD SITUATION.--FASHIONABLE, MESTIZO, AND INDIAN BALLS.--

CHARACTERISTIC INDIAN DANCES.--WORSHIP OF THE SUN AMONG THE

ANCIENT YUCATEOS.--NATIVE MUSIC.--ZOPILOTE DANCE.--VISIT TO A

HENEQUIN HACIENDA.--THE VOLAN COCHÉ.--A VEHICLE OF THE

COUNTRY.--A RACE AND HOW IT ENDED.--ARRIVAL AT THE HACIENDA.--

THE SCRAPING AND BALING MACHINERY.--STARTING A PLANTATION.--

PRICE OF THE FIBRE IN THE MARKET.--"NO MONEY IN THE

BUSINESS."--FIBRE-FACTORIES IN YUCATAN.--HOW THE OWNERS OF

ESTATES LIVE. 468

CHAPTER XXXI.

FIRST NIGHT IN THE HAMMOCKS.--INSPECTING A CENOTÉ.--

UNDERGROUND WATERCOURSES AND LAKES.--HOW CENOTÉS ARE

FORMED.--A SUBTERRANEAN BATH-HOUSE.--A NORIA.--WATER TAX ON

A DIRECT SYSTEM.--NATIVE SUPERSTITIONS.--A LIZARD THAT SHAKES

HIS TAIL OFF.--BITING A SHADOW, AND WHAT COMES OF IT.--JOURNEY

TO THE RUINS OF UXMAL.--A HEETZMEK.--YUCATEO MODE OF CARRYING

INFANTS.--BREAKFAST AT A HACIENDA.--GARDEN AT UAYALKÉ. EATING

TROPICAL LIZARDS.--FRED'S OPINION OF LIZARD STEWS.--BEES OF

THE COUNTRY.--SUPERFLUOUS INDUSTRY OF YUCATEO BEES.--EVENING

PRAYER AT A HACIENDA.--ARRIVAL AT UXMAL. 483

CHAPTER XXXII.

A ROMANTIC LEGEND.--HOW THE KING WAS OVERCOME BY THE WITCH.--

VISITING THE DWARF'S HOUSE; ITS POSITION AND PECULIARITIES.--

HOUSE OF THE NUNS; ITS EXTENT AND CONSTRUCTION.--CASA DEL

GOBERNADOR.--DESTRUCTIVE AGENCIES AT WORK.--AT HOME IN A ROYAL

PALACE.--MAYA ARCHES.--TROPICAL TREES AND PLANTS.--DOUBLE-HEADED

DOG OF UXMAL.--GARAPATAS AND THE ANNOYANCE THEY CAUSED.--INSECT

PESTS OF YUCATAN.--DR. LE PLONGEON AND THE STATUE OF

CHAC-MOOL.--GHOSTS AND GHOST STORIES.--BIRDS OF YUCATAN.--AN

ANCIENT WATERING-PLACE. 498

CHAPTER XXXIII.

A CHAPTER ON ARCHÆOLOGY.--NUMBER AND EXTENT OF THE RUINED

CITIES OF YUCATAN.--MAYAPAN, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL.--PYRAMID

OF MAYAPAN.--AKÉ AND ITS PICOTÉ.--AN ANCIENT WHIPPING-POST.--

PYRAMIDS AT AKÉ.--HISTORICAL CONUNDRUMS.--KABAH AND ITS

MOUND.--SCULPTURE OF A MAN ON HORSEBACK.--CHICHEN-ITZA.--

CHURCH, NUNNERY, CASTLE, AND TENNIS-COURT AT CHICHEN.--

EXTENT AND CHARACTER OF THE SCULPTURES.--STORY OF THE CONQUEST

OF CHICHEN.--SKILFUL RETREAT OF THE SPANISH CAPTAIN.--OTHER

RUINED CITIES.--IDOLS OF COPAN.--PROBABILITIES OF CITIES YET

TO BE DISCOVERED. 513

CHAPTER XXXIV.

CENTRAL AMERICA AND THE REPUBLICS COMPOSING IT; A SKETCH OF

THEIR HISTORY; AREA AND POPULATION.--SNAKES, LIZARDS, AND

OTHER CREEPING THINGS.--COSTA RICA AND ITS REVOLUTIONS.--A

PRESIDENT WHO COULDN'T READ.--HONDURAS AND ITS RESOURCES.--

VISIT TO TEGUCIGALPA.--YUSCARAN AND ITS MINERAL WEALTH.--

UNFORTUNATE FINANCIERING.--INTERESTING SOCIAL CUSTOMS.--

INTEROCEANIC CANALS; THEIR PRESENT STATUS.--THE NICARAGUA

CANAL; SURVEYS, ESTIMATES, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE ROUTE;

PROBABLE ADVANTAGES TO THE WORLD'S COMMERCE; TERMS OF THE

CONCESSION; ESTIMATED COST, REVENUES, AND SAVING OF

DISTANCES.--FAREWELL TO MEXICO.--THE END. 530

ILLUSTRATIONS.

View of Popocatepetl _Frontispiece._

Map of Mexico with its Railways _Front Cover._

Route of the Boy Travellers in Mexico _Back Cover._

A Next-door Neighbor 1

The Mexican Frontier 3

Scene on the Pennsylvania Railroad 4

Street in El Paso 5

Bridge over the Mississippi at St. Louis 7

The Alamo Mission, San Antonio 8

General Sam Houston, Liberator of Texas 9

"G. T. T." 11

Mexico, showing Present and Old Frontier 12

A Group of Texan Hunters 13

View in San Antonio, Texas 14

On the Banks of the Rio Grande 15

Indian Water-carriers 17

An old Mexican Chapel by Moonlight 19

View in Nuevo Laredo 20

Watching the Frontier 21

Landscape near the Border 22

A Mexican Muleteer 23

A Solid Silver Spur 23

A Group of Adobe Houses 25

The Land of Mañana 26

The Threshing-floor 27

Saddle Mountain, Monterey 29

View of the Sierras 30

View of Monterey 31

The Plaza de Zaragoza 32

General Taylor's Attack on Monterey, September 21, 1846 33

The Bishop's Palace 35

Z. Taylor 36

Officers' Uniforms in 1860 39

Mountain Scene near Monterey 41

The Alameda, Monterey 42

Native Pottery 43

A Scene in the Market 44

A Court-yard in Monterey 45

A Window in Monterey 46

View of Sierras from Bishop's Palace 47

Santa Caterina, near Monterey 49

The Organ Cactus 50

Varieties of Cactus 51

In the San Juan Valley 52

A Solid Citizen 53

On the Road to Buena Vista 55

A Servant at the Hacienda 56

Near the Kitchen 57

Making Tortillas 58

A Primitive Kitchen 59

The Guide on the Battle-field 61

The Battle of Buena Vista 63

Boll of Mexican Cotton Plant 64

Picking Cotton 65

Departure of the Diligence 67

On the Road 68

Fight between Brigands and Soldiers 69

Encampment of Brigands 71

A King of the Road 72

Cavalry Pursuing a Band of Robbers 73

Hotel by the Way-side 75

Street Scene at Jaral 77

El Real de Santa Eulalia 78

The Ravine where the Outcasts Lived 79

On the Edge of the Cotton Field 80

"Cotton is King" 81

View in the Mining Region 83

Convent and Fountain 84

A Silver-producing Valley 86

Cactus Growths near Zacatecas 87

Field with Adobe Walls 88

A Mexican Arastra 89

Carrying Ore to the Reduction-works 90

A Mexican Crusher 91

Bringing Ore from the Mines 93

Mexican Bellows 94

Mexican Smelting-furnace 95

An Old-fashioned Plough 96

Farm-laborer in a Grass Cloak 97

Hacienda near the City 98

Prisoners at Work in the Jail 99

Of Spanish Blood 100

Indian Girls at a Spring 101

A Dry Barranca 103

Church of San Diego, Guanajuato 104

Court-yard of a Mexican Tenement-house 105

Superintendent's House at Silver Reduction-works 106

A Ton of Silver 107

A Mexican Beggar 108

Old Convent now used as Barracks 109

A Leading Citizen 110

Prisoners Breaking Ore 111

Sloping Ladders in a Silver-mine 112

Opening a New Mine 113

Entrance of a Mine Not in Operation 114

A Cotton Factory, Queretaro 115

Aqueduct of Queretaro 116

Queretaro 118

A Mexican Cavalry Soldier 120

A Mexican Infantry Soldier 121

Line of Defence held by Maximilian during the Siege of Queretaro 123

First Protestant Church in Mexico 125

Pueblo at Taos, New Mexico 126

Garden of a Mexican Convent 127

Interior of the First Methodist Episcopal Church, City of Mexico 128

Rev. John L. Stephens, a Martyr Missionary 129

In the Cathedral 130

Mexican Priests 131

Comparative Level of Lakes 132

The Great Spanish Drainage-cut 133

Young Girls of Tula 135

Environs of Mexico 137

A Member of the Church Party 139

Transcontinental Profile of Mexico 140

Interior Court-yard of a Mexican Hotel 141

Street View in the Capital 142

On the Way to Morning Mass 143

A Modern Street Front 144

Mexican Lottery Ticket 145

Flower-girl 146

The Cathedral, City of Mexico 148

Moonlight View of Plaza and Cathedral 149

Augustin de Iturbide, Grandson of the Liberator 151

Granting Absolution in the Cathedral 153

Ready for Mass 154

Old Spanish Palace in the Calle de Jesus 154

Church built by Cortez 155

The Aztec Calendar-stone 156

Indian Picture-writing 157

Tenochtitlan, A.D. 1517 158

First Cavalry Charge by Cortez 158

A Flower-show in the Zocalo 159

How the Mantilla is Worn 160

The Trogon 161

Near the Plaza 162

Wax Model of Water-carrier 163

Ancient Indian Pottery 164

Mexican House-maid and Children 165

The Sacrificial Stone 166

One Form of Sacrificial Stone 167

Sacrificial Collar 167

The Form of Sacrifice 168

Sculptures from Tizoc's Stone 169

Gladiatorial Stone--from an Aztec Drawing 170

Huitzilopochtli, the God of War 171

The National Palace 173

Gen. Manuel Gonzales, former President of Mexico 174

Collateral in the Monte de Piedad 175

To the Pawn-shop 176

Occasional Patrons of the Monte de Piedad 177

A Gift to Fred 179

"My house and all it contains are yours" 181

Seeing and Being Seen 182

The Market-place, City of Mexico 184

Interior of a House near the Market-place 185

Mexican Bird-sellers 186

View on the Canal 187

Residence on the Banks of the Canal 188

Sunday Diversions at Santa Anita 189

Crew of a Cargo-boat 190

Chinampas, or Floating Gardens 191

Peon's House on a Chinampa 192

Cactus Growths near the Hill of Estrella 193

Rock Inscriptions made by Ancient Aztecs 194

Home Scene near the Lake 195

A Dead Fly 196

Ruins of a Toltec House 197

A Fortunate Bear 198

Mexican Courtship 199

Code-signalling with the Fan 200

"There he is" 201

A Student of "El Secretario" 202

Mexican Wedding in the Country 203

Flowers for a Lady 204

Funeral of General Doblado, Guanajuato 205

Soldiers' Monument in the American Cemetery 207

Taking Things Easy 209

A Charcoal Peddler 210

A Mexican Wash-house 211

The Landing of Columbus 212

Mexican Sculpture--Door-way of Church of San José 213

Las Casas Protecting the Aztecs 215

The Death of Atala 217

A Successful Artist at Work 218

Maguey Plant 219

The Tlachiquero 220

Extracting Aguamiel 222

A Glass of Aguardiente 223

"Not caught yet" 224

A Magistrate 225

An Old Offender 226

Scene of the Capture 228

A Corner of Chapultepec 229

Montezuma's Tree 230

Statue of Columbus on the Paseo de la Reforma 231

San Cosme Aqueduct 233

Montezuma's Bath 234

Chapultepec and its Gardens 235

El Salto del Agua 236

An Aztec Relic 237

The Valley of Mexico, from the American Official Map 239

View of the Fort of San Juan de Ulloa from Vera Cruz 240

Battle of Cerro Gordo 241

General Santa Anna 242

Battle of Churubusco--Charge of the "Palmettos" 243

Storming of Molino del Rey 244

General Scott's Entrance into Mexico 245

Captured at Chapultepec 246

A Scene of Peace 247

The Noche Triste Tree 248

Departure of Cortez from Cuba 249

The First Mass in the Temples of Yucatan 250

Battle with the Indians 251

First View of the Mexican Capital 252

The Meeting of Cortez and Montezuma 253

The Battle upon the Causeway 255

The Capture of Guatemozin 256

Ponce de Leon 257

The Church of Guadalupe 258

Statuette of the Virgin Mary 259

Making a Pilgrimage Comfortably 261

The Penitentes Walking on Cactus-leaves 262

San Franciscan Mission 263

Indian of Northern Mexico 264

A Mestizo Woman 265

Indian Girl Spinning Cotton 267

Peddler of Wooden Trays 268

Charcoal Vender 269

Of the Old Aristocracy 270

A Creole Residence 271

Group of Mexican Horsemen 272

A Society Belle 273

A Mexican Grandee 274

A Sermon in the Church 275

Church of San Domingo 276

Torture Chamber 277

Prisoners of the Inquisition 278

A Residence in the Foot-hills 279

The Valley of Amecameca 280

Iztaccihuatl, the White Woman 282

Along the Trail 284

Dwarf Pines at a High Elevation 285

The Dome of Popocatepetl from Tlamacas 286

Mexican Saw-mill 287

Hacienda of Tomacoco 288

Volcaneros (Miners) 289

In the Pine Region 291

El Pico del Fraile 292

Not a Good Climber 294

"No mountain for me!" 295

"Hurrah for the top!" 296

The Crater of Popocatepetl 297

Bringing Ice from the Mountain 299

Pack-train from Tlamacas 301

An Improved Refinery 303

Looking from the Top of Popocatepetl 304

A Dangerous Place 305

Ruins of Tlalmanalco 307

Burial-ground of Tenenepanco 308

Vases Found at Tenenepanco 309

Caricature of an Aztec Warrior 310

Ancient Aztec Vases 311

Wants a Souvenir 312

Ruins of San Lazero 313

On the Way to Church 314

Monks at their Musical Exercise 315

A Belle of the Opera 316

A Stage Brigand 317

Tivoli Garden, San Cosme 319

Teasing the Bull 320

Picadores 320

The Matador's Triumph 320

The Final Blow 321

Scenes at a Bull-fight 322

A Bull-ring of the Highest Class 323

A School on the Old Model 324

Figure of Joseph (Procession of the Posada) 325

The Railway Judas 327

Warrior's Profile, found at Tula 329

Church and Part of Plaza at Tula 330

Toltec King and his Throne 331

Ruins of a Toltec Palace 332

The Pyramid of the Sun at Tula 333

Parts of a Column, Tula 335

Toltec Caryatid, Tula 336

Native Hut on a Sugar Estate 337

Henequin Plant 338

Fight between Regulars and Insurgents 339

Railway Crossing a Barranca 340

A Product of Cuautla 341

Travellers Resting 342

Over the Hills 343

A Scorpion of Cuernavaca 343

A Church Going to Decay 344

Mexican House with Tiled Roof 345

Climbing the Heights 347

A Way-side Shrine 348

On the Road to Acapulco 349

A Country Hotel 350

Galleon of the Sixteenth Century 351

Town and Castle of Acapulco 353

A Scene on the Diligence Road 354

An Interior Town 355

At the Hacienda 356

A Corner of the Market-place 357

Court-yard of a Private House 359

In the Poor Quarters 360

Mexicans Planting Corn 361

A Rodeo 362

Driving a Herd 363

President Porfirio Diaz 365

View in Oajaca 366

Saved from the Sea 367

House with Tile Front 369

American Residents of Mexico 371

A Military Post 372

A Country Post-office 373

Compositor for _The Two Republics_ 374

Surveying under Difficulties 376

Ruins of the Covered Way to the Inquisition 377

Cathedral of Puebla 378

Street Scene in Puebla 379

Part of Puebla 380

Pyramid of Cholula 382

View from the Top of the Pyramid 383

Sport at Cholula 384

Local Freight Train 385

A Relic of the Past 386

Indian Farm Laborers 387

An Aztec Relic 388

Interior of an Old Church 389

First Christian Pulpit in America 390

Old Baptismal Font, Tlascala 391

Ancient Bells 392

A Native Ploughman 393

The "Portales," or Covered Walks 394

Map of Railway between City of Mexico and Vera Cruz 395

Double-ender Locomotive on Mexican Railway 397

View of Orizaba 398

The River at Orizaba 399

Hill of El Barrago 401

Orange Grove in Cordoba 402

Coffee-drying 403

Bridge of Attoyac 405

In Tierra Caliente 406

Vera Cruz, looking seaward 407

After the Vomito 409

A Coffee-carrier 410

Fountain at Vera Cruz 412

The Governor's Palace 413

On the Way to the Fort 414

The National Bridge.--Robbing a Coach 416

Sketched at Rinconada 417

Part of Jalapa 418

A Narrow Street 419

Exterior of a Church 421

A Tourist 422

On the River's Bank 423

A Steamship on a Platform Car 424

Plane and Elevation of Terminus 425

Tank Carriage 426

Section of Part of Cradle Carriage 427

Map of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec 429

Mahogany Hunters 430

Travelling in Tabasco 431

Plan of Part of the Palace at Palenque 433

Medallion Bass-relief 434

Idol in Temple at Lorillard City 435

The Cross of Palenque 436

Grand Hall at Mitla 437

Exterior of Temple at Mitla 438

In the Forest 439

John L. Stephens 440

Seeking the Mysterious City 441

Campeachy Tobacco 443

The Quezal 444

Difficulties of Travel in Campeachy 445

Map of Yucatan 447

Tropical Railway Train and Station 448

Flock of Pelicans 449

Sisal-hemp 450

Indians of Yucatan 451

Retreating from Hostile Indians 453

In the Outskirts 454

The Calesa.--Entrance of a Merida House 455

House built by Montejo 457

Musical Instruments 458

Municipal Palace and Square, Merida 459

Dancing Scene 460

Native Village in the Interior 461

Fruit-sellers in the Market-place 463

Sitting for her Portrait 464

In the Market-place 465

No more "Loteria" 467

Hammock Lodgings in the Country 468

View on a Back Street 469

Scene in a Ball-room 471

Indians Dancing 473

Preparing for the Ball 475

A Volan Coché 476

A Street in Merida 477

A Primitive Sugar-mill 479

Railway-station in the Henequin District 480

Storehouse at the Hacienda 481

A Morning Run 482

A Corner of the Hacienda 483

An Underground Walk 484

Formation of Stalactites 485

At a Noria 487

At Home in Merida 489

Scene of the Heetzmek 490

Garden of the Hacienda 491

Native Village near Uxmal 493

Hunting the Iguana 494

What Perfumes the Honey 495

The Sierra from the Garden of the Hacienda 496

Side of Ancient Altar 497

Archway of Las Monjas, Uxmal 498

Hacienda of Uxmal 499

Dwarf's House and East Wing of the Casa de las Monjas 501

Façade of West Wing of Casa de las Monjas 503

Ground-plan of Las Monjas 504

Casa del Gobernador 505

Ground-plan of Casa del Gobernador 506

Statue of Double-headed Dog, Uxmal 507

Decorations over Door-way of Casa del Gobernador 509

An Unwelcome Visitor 510

Statue of Chac-Mool 511

Maya Arches 512

Yucateo Sculpture 513

Great Mound at Mayapan 514

Circular Edifice at Mayapan 515

Sculptured Head of Yucatan 517

Pillars of Great Gallery, Aké 519

Head of Incense-burner 520

Maya Sculpture (Profile) 520

Ruined Arch at Kabah 521

Façade of El Castillo 522

Bass-relief, Chichen-Itza 523

Door-posts in Tennis-court 524

Casa Colorada 525

Head of War-god, from Copan 526

Idol of Copan (from Stephens) 527

Decoration over Door-way 528

Map of Central America 529

In a Central American Forest 530

Government Palace, San José 531

Central American Lodgings 533

Banana Plantation in Costa Rica 534

Don Bernardo de Soto, President of Costa Rica 535

Gen. Luis Bogran, President of Honduras 536

Tegucigalpa, Capital of Honduras 537

Street in Yuscaran 538

Old Bridge at Tegucigalpa 539

Statue of Morazan, Tegucigalpa 540

Bird's-eye View of the Nicaragua Canal 541

Profile of Nicaragua Canal 542

A Section of the Canal 543

River San Juan at Toro Rapids 544

Street in Greytown 545

El Castillo, San Juan River 546

View of Lake Nicaragua 547

Mozo in Full Dress 548

Fort San Carlos 549

Native Boats, Lake Nicaragua 550

Central American Hacienda 551

Birds of Nicaragua 552

THE BOY TRAVELLERS

IN

MEXICO.

CHAPTER I.

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.--PLANS FOR THE JOURNEY.--TO MEXICO BY

RAIL.--BAGGAGE, AND BOOKS ON THE COUNTRY.--BRUSHING UP THEIR KNOWLEDGE

OF SPANISH.--WESTWARD FROM NEW YORK.--A HALT AT ST. LOUIS.--SAN ANTONIO,

TEXAS.--VISIT TO THE ALAMO.--REMINISCENCES OF THE FALL OF THE

ALAMO.--BATTLE OF SAN JACINTO AND INDEPENDENCE OF TEXAS.--NOTES ON THE

RAILWAYS OF NORTHERN MEXICO.--OLD TEXAS AND MODERN CHANGES.--

"G. T. T."--PRESENT WEALTH OF THE STATE.--ARRIVAL ON THE FRONTIER OF

MEXICO.

"I've news for you, Frank!"

"Well, what is it?"

"We're going to Mexico next week," answered Fred; "at any rate, that is

uncle's plan, and he will tell us all about it this evening."

[Illustration: A NEXT-DOOR NEIGHBOR.]

"The news is good news," was the reply; "for Mexico is one of the

countries that just now I want very much to see. We have heard a great

deal about it since the railway was completed to the capital; and then,

you know, the Mexicans are our neighbors."

"That is true," said Fred; "here we've been going all over the rest of

the world, and haven't yet called on our neighbors, and next-door

neighbors too. But we're not alone in this, as it is probable that for

every inhabitant of the Northern States who has visited Mexico, a

hundred have been across the Atlantic."

This conversation occurred between Frank Bassett and Fred Bronson

shortly after returning from their tour among the islands of the Pacific

Ocean and through New Zealand, Tasmania, and Australia. The accounts of

their journeys have appeared in several volumes, with which our readers

are or should be familiar.[1]

[1] "The Boy Travellers in the Far East" (five volumes), and "The Boy

Travellers in South America," "The Boy Travellers in the Russian

Empire," "The Boy Travellers on the Congo," and "The Boy Travellers in

Australasia" (four volumes). See complete list at the end of this book.

The youths waited with some impatience until evening, when they were to

hear from Doctor Bronson the details of the proposed trip. In the mean

time they devoted themselves to their Spanish grammars and dictionaries,

which they had not seen for months, owing to their occupation with other

matters. And we may here add that until their departure and while they

were on the road, every moment that could be applied to the study of the

language of the country whither they were bound was industriously

employed. By the time they crossed the border they were able to speak

Spanish very well, and had very little need of interpreters.

"We shall go to Mexico by rail," said the Doctor, "and return by sea; at

any rate, that is my plan at present, but circumstances may change it.

It is my intention to visit the principal cities and other places of

interest, and also to give some attention to the antiquities of the

country and of Central America; exactly what places we shall see I

cannot say at this moment, nor how long we shall be absent."

"What shall we need in the way of baggage?" one of the youths asked.

"About what you need for a long journey north and south in the United

States," was the reply. "You will need clothing for hot weather as well

as for cold. We shall find it quite chilly in certain parts of the

_tierra fria_, or highlands, and warm enough in the _tierra caliente_,

or lowlands along the coast. You must have outer and under clothing

adapted to warm and cool climates, and your ulsters may be placed for

convenience in the same bundle with your linen dusters. Have a good

supply of under-clothing, as the facilities for laundry-work are not the

best, even in the large cities; but do not load yourselves with anything

not absolutely necessary, as the Mexican railways allow only

thirty-three pounds of baggage to a local passenger, and the charges for

extra weight are high. Passengers with through tickets from the United

States are entitled to one hundred and fifty pounds of baggage free.

"Of course," continued the Doctor, "you will want some books on Mexico,

partly for historical research and partly for description. There is an

excellent guide-book which was written by Mr. Janvier, and there is

another by Mr. Conkling; get them both, and also 'Old Mexico and her

Lost Provinces,' by Mr. Bishop, 'Mexico of To-day,' by Mr. Griffin, and

'Our Next-door Neighbor,' by Bishop Haven. Don't forget Charnay's

'Ancient Cities of the New World,' and Prescott's 'Conquest of Mexico.'

You can read the latter book before we go; it is inconveniently large

for travelling purposes, and so we will leave it behind us, as we can

easily find it in the City of Mexico, in case we wish to refer to it

again. Abbott's 'Life of Hernando Cortez' is a more portable work, and

will serve to refresh your memory concerning what you read in Prescott's

volumes."

[Illustration: THE MEXICAN FRONTIER.]

The conversation lasted an hour or more, and by the time it ended the

boys almost felt that they were already in the land of the Aztecs. Their

dreams through the night were of ancient temples and modern palaces,

Aztec and Spanish warriors, snowy mountains and palm-covered plains,

mines of silver and other metals, fortresses, cathedrals, haciendas and

hovels, and of many races and tribes of men that dwell in the land they

were about to see. Fred declared in the morning that he had dreamed of

Montezuma and Maximilian walking arm in arm, and Frank professed to have

had a similar vision concerning Cortez and General Scott.

For the next few days the youths had no spare time on their hands, and

when the start was made for the proposed journey they were well prepared

for it both mentally and materially. They had followed Doctor Bronson's

directions as to their outfit of clothing and other things, had procured

the books which he named, and, as we have already seen, had made a

vigorous overhauling of their Spanish grammars and phrase-books.

[Illustration: SCENE ON THE PENNSYLVANIA RAILROAD.]

From New York there are several routes westward, as our readers are

pretty well aware, and the youths were a little puzzled to know which

one would be chosen. The mystery was solved by the Doctor on the day

before their departure. He announced that they would go to St. Louis by

the Pennsylvania Railroad, and from there to the frontier of Mexico by

the Missouri Pacific and Southern Pacific lines. "And now," said he, "I

will leave you to choose the route to the capital city, and you need not

decide until we reach St. Louis."

The Doctor's suggestion compelled a study of the maps and a careful

reading of the guide-books and other literature pertaining to the

journey. The result of their study may be summed up as follows from an

entry which Frank made in his note-book:

[Illustration: STREET IN EL PASO.]

"The first railway which was opened from the United States to the City

of Mexico was the Mexican Central, which runs from El Paso, Texas, or

rather from Paso del Norte, Mexico, which is opposite to El Paso, on the

other side of the Rio Grande. Its length is 1224 miles, and it was

completed March 8, 1884, at the station of Fresnillo, 750 miles from

Paso del Norte, the line having been built from both ends at the same

time. Three years and six months were required for its construction, and

the line is said to have cost more than thirty-two millions of dollars;

eight miles of track were laid during the last day of the work before

the two ends of the line were brought together; and considering all the

disadvantages of the enterprise, it reflects great credit upon those who

managed it.

"For more than four years the Mexican Central was the only all-rail

route for travellers from the United States to the City of Mexico, and

it had a practical monopoly of business. In 1888 two other lines were

opened; or perhaps we might say, another line and half of a third. These

are the Mexican National Railway, from Laredo, Texas, to Mexico City, a

distance of 825 miles, and the International Railway, from Piedras

Negras, Mexico, opposite Eagle Pass, Texas, to a point on the Mexican

Central, about half-way between El Paso and Mexico. The International is

the one which we call half a line, as it makes a new route into Mexico,

and from all we can learn a very good one too.

"The Central is a standard-gauge road, four feet eight and one-half

inches wide, while the National is a narrow-gauge line, three feet

between the rails; the advantage of the National line is that it is much

shorter than the Central, as I will proceed to show.

"From St. Louis to Mexico City, by way of Laredo, the distance is 1823

miles, while by the Central line it is 2584 miles; there is thus a

saving of 761 miles, or about thirty hours in time. But the Central will

take us through five or six interesting cities, while the National only

goes near Monterey, San Luis Potosi, and Toluca.

"Fred and I have decided to ask uncle to go by neither one route nor the

other, but to travel by both of them, and the International line in

addition; and this is the way we propose to do it:

"We'll go from St. Louis to Laredo because of the saving of time and

distance, and then we'll go to Monterey, which is an interesting city,

by the National Railway. After we've done Monterey we'll go farther on,

to Saltillo, and there we can cross over to Jaral, about forty miles,

and find ourselves on the main line of the International Railway. There

the train will pick us up and carry us to Torreon, on the Mexican

Central Railway, and from there we can continue to the capital, seeing

the best part of the Central line, or rather of the country through

which it runs. The northern part of the route of the Central is said to

be dreary and uninteresting, and so we shall be able to avoid it by the

plan we have made."

The scheme was duly unfolded to the Doctor, who promptly gave his

approval and commended the youths for the careful study they had made

of the railway system of northern Mexico. "Later on," said he, "we will

consider the subject of railways in other parts of Mexico, and I'm sure

you will be able to make some interesting notes about it for your

friends at home. Mexico was for a long time very backward in railway

enterprises, but in the past few years she has gone ahead very rapidly.

Ten years ago there were not five hundred miles of railway in the

country; now there are nearly, if not quite, five thousand miles, and in

ten years from this time there will be double that number. The Mexico of

to-day is very different from the Mexico of a quarter of a century ago."

[Illustration: BRIDGE OVER THE MISSISSIPPI AT ST. LOUIS.]

Our friends stopped a day in St. Louis, and another at San Antonio,

Texas, partly for sight-seeing purposes and partly for rest. At the

former city the great bridge over the Mississippi excited the wonder and

admiration of the youths, who heard with much interest the story of its

construction and the difficulties which the engineers encountered in

laying the foundations. At San Antonio they had their first glimpse of

Mexican life, as the city is quite Mexican in character, and at one time

was almost wholly so. Doctor Bronson told them that about one-third of

the inhabitants are of Mexican origin, and they could easily believe it

as they saw the Mexican features all about them on the streets, and

heard the Spanish language quite as often as any other.

[Illustration: THE ALAMO MISSION, SAN ANTONIO.]

The object of greatest interest to them was the Alamo, the old fort

which, in 1836, the Texans, who were fighting for independence, so

heroically but unsuccessfully defended. They were disappointed to find

that there is not much remaining of the fort, which originally consisted

of an oblong enclosure, about an acre in extent, with walls three feet

thick, and eight or ten feet high. "There were 144 men in the Alamo, and

they were besieged by 4000 Mexican troops under General Santa Anna,"

said a gentleman who accompanied them to the spot. "The Mexicans had

artillery, and the Texans had none, and against such odds it was

hopeless to resist. Santa Anna sent a summons for them to surrender, and

throw themselves upon Mexican mercy, but they refused to do so, and

defied him and his army."

As he paused a moment, Fred asked why they refused to surrender when the

odds were so much against them.

"They knew what Mexican mercy was," said the gentleman. "It was

illustrated not long afterwards at Goliad, where Colonel Fannin

surrendered with 412 men as prisoners of war. They were promised to be

released under the rules of war, and one Sunday morning, when they were

singing 'Home, sweet home,' they were marched out and massacred, every

man of them. The slaughter lasted from six till eight, and then the

bodies of the slain were burned by orders of the general. It is proper

to say that the Mexican officers were generally disgusted with the

terrible business, but they were obliged to obey the orders of Santa

Anna, or be themselves shot down. His policy was one of extermination,

and he could have said on his death-bed that he left no enemies behind

him, as he had killed them all.

"Well," continued their informant, "the siege of the Alamo began on the

23d of February, 1836, and lasted for thirteen days. Over 200 shells

were thrown into the fort in the first twenty-four hours, but not a man

was injured by them, while the Texan sharp-shooters picked off a great

number of the Mexicans. Santa Anna made several assaults, but was driven

back each time, and it is believed that he lost fully 1500 men in the

siege. On the morning of the 6th of March a final assault was made, and

the fort was captured; every man was killed in the fighting excepting

six who surrendered, and among the six was the famous Col. David

Crockett. Santa Anna ordered all of them to be cut to pieces, and

Crockett fell with a dozen sword-wounds after his own weapons had been

given up. Colonel Travis, who commanded the fort, was also killed, and

so was Colonel Bowie, who was ill in bed at the time, and was shot where

he lay. He was the inventor of the bowie-knife, which has been famous

through the West and South-west for a good many years. Only three

persons were spared from death, a woman, a child, and a servant."

"How long was that before the battle of San Jacinto?" one of the youths

asked.

[Illustration: GEN. SAM HOUSTON, THE LIBERATOR OF TEXAS.]

"Less than seven weeks," was the reply, "and never was there a more

complete victory than at that battle. Gen. Sam Houston retreated slowly,

and was followed by the Mexican army. He burned a bridge behind his

enemies, and suddenly attacking them on the afternoon of April 21st, he

killed half their number and captured nearly all the rest. The war-cry

of the Texans was 'Remember the Alamo! remember Goliad!' and maddened by

the recollection of the cruelties of the Mexicans, they fought like

tigers, and carried everything before them. Santa Anna, disguised as a

soldier, was captured the next day; Houston had hard work to save him

from the fury of the Texans, but he was saved, and lived to fight again

ten years later. But the battle of San Jacinto ended the war, and made

Texas independent of Mexico."

A ride of a hundred and fifty miles to the south-west from San Antonio

brought our friends to Laredo, on the banks of the Rio Grande, the

dividing line between the United States and Mexico. The ride was through

a thinly settled country, devoted principally to grazing, and there were

few objects of interest along the route. The time was varied with

looking from the windows of the car, with the perusal of books, and by

conversation concerning the Texan war for independence, to which the

thoughts of the party had naturally turned through their visit to the

Alamo at San Antonio.

"Texas was a province of Mexico," said the Doctor, "in the early part of

the present century, the Spaniards having established missions and

stations there at the same time that the French established missions and

military posts in Louisiana. The territorial boundaries between France

and Spain were never very clearly defined; the two countries were in a

constant quarrel about their rights, and when we purchased the Louisiana

territory from France we inherited the dispute about the boundaries.

Adventurers from various parts of the United States poured into the

country, and the population was more American than Mexican; there were

many respectable men among the American settlers, but there was also a

considerable proportion of what might be called 'a bad lot.'"

"I have read somewhere," said Frank, "a couplet which is said to have

been composed by a resident of the country fifty years ago, and to have

given the State its name.

"'When every other land rejects us,

This is the land that freely takes us.'"

[Illustration: "G. T. T."]

"And I," said Fred, "have read somewhere that when a man ran away to

cheat his creditors, or for any more serious reason, it was commonly

said that he had 'gone to Texas.' When the sheriffs looked for somebody

whom they wished to arrest and were unable to find him, they indorsed

the warrant with the initial letters 'G. T. T.' before returning it to

the authorities who issued it. Sometimes an absconding debtor saved his

friends the trouble of looking for him by leaving on his door a card

bearing these interesting letters."

"Undoubtedly," continued the Doctor, "there was a rough population in

Texas in those days, but the men composing it were not deficient in

bravery, and they had the spirit of independence in the fullest degree.

While the United States and Mexico were disputing about the boundaries,

the Texans set up a claim for independence, and the war which was ended

by the battle of San Jacinto was like our Revolutionary War a hundred

and more years ago. After Texas had secured her independence, she set up

a government of her own; she had a president and all the other officials

pertaining to a republic, and was recognized by England, France, and

other European countries. This did not last long, as her finances fell

into a deplorable condition, and the preponderance of Americans among

the population naturally led to a movement for annexation to the United

States. Annexation was followed by war with Mexico, and it grew out of

the old dispute about the boundaries. Mexico claimed all land west of

the Nueces River, while Texas claimed to own as far west as the Rio

Grande. Each country believed it was right, and our war with Mexico

resulted in the defeat of the Mexican armies, the occupation of their

capital, and the establishment of the right of the United States to all

territory east of the Rio Grande."

"Texas is therefore one of the lost provinces of Mexico," said Frank.

"Yes," was the reply; "it is one of them, and a very large one, as it

has an area of nearly three hundred thousand square miles, and is a

country of great future possibilities. But Texas was by no means the

greatest of the losses of Mexico by the war, as California, Nevada,

Utah, Arizona, and New Mexico were taken by us as compensation for our

trouble, and you know what they are to-day. About the time that the

treaty of peace was signed and the cession of territory made, gold was

discovered in California, and the wonderful wealth of the Pacific coast

and the Rocky Mountain region was rapidly developed. Look on the map in

Mr. Bishop's book and see what Mexico was before and after the war."

[Illustration]

The boys made a careful inspection of the map, and as it will be

interesting to their friends at home, we here reproduce it.

"The Mexicans were severely punished for their cruelty to the Texans,"

said Fred, "and were probably sorry for their butcheries at Goliad and

the Alamo when they sat down to think of the war and how it turned out.

[Illustration: A GROUP OF TEXAN HUNTERS.]

"The responsibility for those butcheries rests rather upon General Santa

Anna than on the officers and soldiers who executed his orders. He

started out in a war of extermination, and there is abundant evidence

that his officers loathed the work they had to perform. One of them,

writing from Goliad at the time of the massacre of Colonel Fannin and

his men, said, 'This day, Palm Sunday, has been to me a day of

heart-felt sorrow. What an awful scene did the field present when the

prisoners were executed and fell in heaps, and what spectator could view

it without horror!' It has been said that the feeble resistance that

Santa Anna's men made at the battle of San Jacinto was in consequence of

the willingness of officers and soldiers to be captured so that the

terrible war could come to an end."

"Texas is now a very prosperous State," continued the Doctor; "the value

of its taxable property is nearly seven hundred millions of dollars, and

some authorities say it is more, and it has seven millions of cattle,

ten millions of sheep, and horses and mules in proportion. By the census

of 1880 it had a population of more than one and a half millions, and it

is probable that 1890 will give it more than two millions. Its area

would make five States as large as New York, thirty-three as large as

Massachusetts, and two hundred and twelve of the size of Rhode Island.

That it has changed greatly from the days before the annexation, and is

favorable to peace and good order, is shown by its liberal appropriation

for schools, its laws relative to the sale of intoxicating drinks, the

fines it imposes for carrying pistols and bowie-knives, and its

penalties for using them."

There was further conversation about the south-west and its

peculiarities, when the train reached the frontier and attention was

turned to Mexico and the new land that they were about to visit.

[Illustration: VIEW IN SAN ANTONIO, TEXAS.]

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